KR super high
 

Just replaced the vvt chain and switched my oil to rotella t6
After the fix and switching there has been a more Audible ticking at idle and when accelerating. Watching the KR while driving you can see it climb all the way to 8.0 at times maxing out there . What could the issue possibly be?


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Well, you could be having any of a whole number of different problems, or you might have no problem at all.

1. Are you sure that the engine is timed properly? That is, when you replaced the timing chain, are you sure that the camshafts, crank, and so forth were correctly aligned relative to one another?

2. Did you only replace the timing chain? Did you replace the VVT actuator, the chain tensioner, or anything else while you were in there?

3. If you did anything other than the timing chain, did you replace the diamond friction washers with new OEM parts? If not, then you will absolutely need to before driving any further. Timing will slip if you don't.

4. Is the knock only at part throttle? If so, then extremely high counts of knock are not atypical at all. If, on the other hand, you're having non-negligible knock while under load/in boost, then you definitely have a serious problem to address.

I’ll have to check to see when I have knock. So I should not have high knock under boost / what would be acceptable under load/boost




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You realistically don't want any knock at WOT. That being said, spuratic smaller values under 1 could be contributed to other engine noise if the knock sensors are at high sensitivity.

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Don't just "check." Datalog.

i would add: do it asap and be very carefull while driving because if the timing job as some fail, it will cost an engine pretty soon.
I would rather lift the VC, put the timing bolt behind the crank and rotate it to find TDC and make sure the cams are still properly timed. If not, stop driving it and start again your timing job but this time, by following the instructions on the thread ''how too VVT'' failure to follow all instruction there is a recipe for blown engine...(And yes unfortunately the single use parts would need to be bought again)
While looking at cams positions, you should also double check if the damper is still aligned by being able to put correctly the 6mm bolt thru the damper pulley where it should.

Once being in the garage, i would check engine compression...of course, after removal of all timing tool installed before cranking the engine....

Understood. Took a WOT log in 3rd gear will be uploading later. While at half throttle or mid range rpms I’m sitting around 5/8 and then when I put the pedal down it tends to drop to around 5. I can also get KR if I’m in neutral and rev it to like 3000 rpms


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If you're getting knock at WOT and consistently during part throttle driving or revving in neutral, you should probably stop driving the car and check timing ASAP. It sounds like your engine may be improperly timed.

What would be the easiest way to check and retime the car if it’s out of time?


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If it was out of timing wouldn’t it be throwing a code or not?


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Maybe if you keep driving it the ECU will eventually throw a code but, from how bad it sounds, I don't think you should take that risk. There are some forms on here describing how to install the timing chain. With enough searching you should be able to find them and they describe how to time the engine properly. If I remember correctly, there is some special tool you need that a lot of people make themselves. You can buy it too for like $60

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To validate timing, yes you can made the locking bolt with precise exact length but for doing the timing job, the timing plate is something that would need machinist skills and tools...And since the precision needed for those, i would rather get the right thing....(You can even rent it)

the search won't be exhaustive, the thread is called ''How to VVT'' and gives all the infos but one need to pass thru it. A general mechanic that never did a keyless timing job will probably fail at it, if the person don't know and don't read. with low cost worn out cars, many will try to cut on the cost and probably try to do it by replacing the part looking broken, it won't work.
OP will also need to separate mechanic problems against electronics ones. The ecu isn't programmed to validate if mechanical work has been done properly, the cell are there to diagnose something wrong out of normal specs.
So as you said, yes it may detect if the cam is out of phase but will this detection happen before the valves bend against the piston ? probably not...
And constant knock under many conditions is sign of something bad enough to vent the bloc soon or later if ignored....

tl;dr
If you did the VVT/Timing chain and it's not sounding the same then It's most likely out of time...
Not following procedure will just lead to catastrophic failure. There are components that cannot be reused when servicing the chain.

From my understanding if it was out of time it would be throwing codes either right away or after two full vehicle cycles? I’m going to try to put one gallon of e85 into 93 to see if the knock persists or if it’s just bad fuel. I’m also going to check all my connection and spark plugs. Is there anything else I should check before just paying someone to have it retimed


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Before you start driving it more and risk blowing the motor, why not post the datalog you took and have a few sets of experienced eyes look it over for safety?