The Ultimate "Will They Fit" Thread - Everything you need to know about wheels, spacers and tires for your MS

[Thor Hammer]

Originally Posted by aeronsolameee Hey everyone! I’m new here. My names aeronsolameee, but you can call me Aeron. I have a 2012 Mazdaspeed 3 Touring and I’m at stock height. I’m running (as far as I know) stock fitment. 18x8 et40ish and my tires are 235-45. I’m trying to find out if this new fit will work with minimal effort or if I’ll have to roll, pull, etc. I’m trying to run 18x9.5 et30, I’m trying to run the same wheels as well.

Read back a lot of pages and you will have your answer.

[Djohns]

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Kill yourself.

[Coffeespeed]

Are these people getting hacked or just being fuckers?

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by Coffeespeed Are these people getting hacked or just being fuckers?

Well that is that persons one and only post so I would venture to say they’re just an advertising troll.

[Whitebullet]

This info helped a lot

[IT Gnome]

I have a 2006 MS6 lowered on Eibach Prokit springs. The fenders have been rolled, not a flat roll and no pull. I hope to get coilovers in the spring.

I really like the TSW N?rburgring. It comes in 2 wheel/tire combos I'd like to try:

18x8.5+45 with 235/40R18
or
18x9+63 with 245/40R18 with 10mm spacer and extended wheel studs

According to Rims&Tires' calculator, the 1st combo will stick out about 20mm and have the same clearance on the inside. The 2nd combo would be 13mm closer to the suspension and stick out 17mm.

[Loophole35]

I’m not sure on the MS6 (though I think they are tighter than MS3) but your first option may still need spacers (will definitely need them with coils). The second option is a hard no.

[Bmurray94]

Guys will a stock height ms3 rub with 17x9 +45 and 245/45/17?

If so, will just a simple roll do the trick? All 4 corners? Just rears?

Thanks in advance

[madhatter340]

Originally Posted by Bmurray94 Guys will a stock height ms3 rub with 17x9 +45 and 245/45/17? If so, will just a simple roll do the trick? All 4 corners? Just rears? Thanks in advance

I just put this exact setup on my Pu a few weeks ago, still stock suspension. I had to add 5mm spacers to give more strut clearance, but otherwise no issues. No roll required, no rubbing. That being said, it’s a tight fit.

Setup is 17x9 +45 RPF1s with 245/45R17 RE-71Rs.

I’m thinking of going with 255/40R17 once I wear these out. Kind of expecting to need a roll at that point.










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[Bmurray94]

Originally Posted by madhatter340 I just put this exact setup on my Pu a few weeks ago, still stock suspension. I had to add 5mm spacers to give more strut clearance, but otherwise no issues. No roll required, no rubbing. That being said, it’s a tight fit. Setup is 17x9 +45 RPF1s with 245/45R17 RE-71Rs. I’m thinking of going with 255/40R17 once I wear these out. Kind of expecting to need a roll at that point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply!
Mine is going on a 1st gen. Wondering how the fitment compares

[Jakeypoo]

Originally Posted by madhatter340 I just put this exact setup on my Pu a few weeks ago, still stock suspension. I had to add 5mm spacers to give more strut clearance, but otherwise no issues. No roll required, no rubbing. That being said, it’s a tight fit. Setup is 17x9 +45 RPF1s with 245/45R17 RE-71Rs. I’m thinking of going with 255/40R17 once I wear these out. Kind of expecting to need a roll at that point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where did you get those spacers?

[madhatter340]

They’re custom spacers from Motorsport Technology.

I tried the JBR 5mm spacers, but the hub doesn’t protrude enough for the wheels to center when using them, and I couldn’t get rid of vibrations at >70 mph. Also the lug nuts kept loosening up on me. Was a little too sketchy for me to do 4th gear pulls.

Spacer specs:
Thickness: 5mm
Hub center bore diameter: 67.1 mm
Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3 mm
Wheel center bore diameter: 73 mm (RPF1 bore diameter)

Pricey maybe, but the wheels center properly now.


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[phate]

Originally Posted by madhatter340 I tried the JBR 5mm spacers, but the hub doesn’t protrude enough for the wheels to center when using them, and I couldn’t get rid of vibrations at >70 mph. Also the lug nuts kept loosening up on me. Was a little too sketchy for me to do 4th gear pulls. Spacer specs: Thickness: 5mm Hub center bore diameter: 67.1 mm Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3 mm Wheel center bore diameter: 73 mm (RPF1 bore diameter) Pricey maybe, but the wheels center properly now.

If you're using a tapered seat lug (like the stock ones), you don't need a hub centering ring. The wheels are lug-centric.



I run ~20mm of stacked spacer without a centering ring and have no issues. It sounds like you had other issues if your lugs were coming loose.

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou I read a similar thread on a Cadillac forum. Looking at basic napkin math, it doesn't seem like much difference. Without a doubt, the lugs will have to flex a little in order to seat the lug nuts. That's a fairly simple concept to grasp. But what seems to be overlooked is how much flex angle is required. For the sake of illustration, get a 10 inch stick and stand it up on a table. Hold the base of the stick with 1 hand. Now, with the other hand move the tip of that stick to the side by about an inch. Roughly note the new angle from vertical. With the stick straight up again, go half way down the stick and move to the side an inch again. You should have at least noticed the stick has a lot more angle to it from vertical. Go father down the stick and move it over an inch again. The stick is really getting out of whack now. The lug nut on the lug when seated is very close to the base of the lug. While 0.35mm of deflection may not sound like much, the angle of flex on that lug can be pretty significant because that deflection is being applied near the base of the lug. Because you mentioned it earlier, using a hubcentric spacer would help by deflecting the lugs equally as well move the deflection moment farther away from the base of the lug and therefore the lugs would deflect at a smaller angle. It helps, but certainly doesn't make it right. Use at your own risk.

...and then I came across this:https://www.performanceplustire.com/...ver/ws:18x7-5/

Wheel Size : 18x7.5
Bolt Pattern (inches) [?] : 5x4.5
Bolt Pattern (metric) [?] : 5x114.3
Backspace : 6.125 inches
Offset [?] : 48 mm
Full Finish [?] : Silver
Center Cap : Not Included

[Fstrnyou]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 ...and then I came across this:https://www.performanceplustire.com/...ver/ws:18x7-5/ Wheel Size : 18x7.5 Bolt Pattern (inches) [?] : 5x4.5 Bolt Pattern (metric) [?] : 5x114.3 Backspace : 6.125 inches Offset [?] : 48 mm Full Finish [?] : Silver Center Cap : Not Included

What about it?
The arguement isn't 114.3mm vs 4.5". They are identical.
The arguement is 114.3mm vs 115mm.

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou What about it? The arguement isn't 114.3mm vs 4.5". They are identical. The arguement is 114.3mm vs 115mm.

OH lord. Sorry about that guys. Youre totally right. Thanks for pointing that out.

[Izapyou]

So I have a question for the mazdaspeed community. I have a 2006 mazdaspeed 6 that is completely stock. One of my wheels is bent and I’m looking to replace these wheels with another set of Mazda wheels. I found a set of 2007 Mazda CX-7 wheels that I believe will work but I want to check. From what I understand the speed 6 is 18x7 with a 55mm offset and the CX-7 is 18x7.5 with a 50mm offset. It appears these should work but I want to make sure. We just put a brand new set of 225-40R18 on the speed wheels so those would be installed on the CX-7 wheels. Any help would be appreciated.

[Ehtn]

Looking for what mm size spacer i should go with for a flush fitment.

[Fstrnyou]

Originally Posted by Ehtn Looking for what mm size spacer i should go with for a flush fitment.

It is frowned upon to sandwich a spacer wider than 5mm. Any wider and you should install bolt-on spacers.

If you want to know exactly how much spacing YOU need on YOUR car with whatever wheels YOU have to get the look YOU want, go out with a tape measure and see.