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 Old 04-13-2011, 03:24 AM   #81
 
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Originally Posted by WhoKnowsWho View Post
Did all the disassembly this past weekend but the CEL came back after 2 tanks of gas. And the sad thing is, all I have been using is QT for gas for years now so I don't think I can improve the gas I am using. I didn't do a scrub down cleaning though, I sprayed everything with brake cleaner, actuated the valve, and blew compressed air through the pipe. Could the actual mechanical actuator be bad? Or was my cleaning too lazy? Oh yeah, it's an '07 with 86K miles, mostly highway. Maybe I'll have to try the easy off oven cleaner.
I think it's just because of "lazy" cleaning. That carbon is sticking to valve like crazy and just spraying it with brake cleaner won't help much. I actually used brush and some wire to try to take as much out as possible. Did around 2000 miles since cleanup and it's still fine.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 03:59 AM   #82
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Well, do this. Unplug the top, remove the 4 screws holding the plastic top down. Pill it off. Then you can press down on the plunger. If you get resistance then you need to do a better job. If not, there is blockage after it. Take off the pipe and check that. It is probably on the engine block from egr to the pipe. That is where mine backed up.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 04:43 AM   #83
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
Well, do this. Unplug the top, remove the 4 screws holding the plastic top down. Pill it off. Then you can press down on the plunger. If you get resistance then you need to do a better job. If not, there is blockage after it. Take off the pipe and check that. It is probably on the engine block from egr to the pipe. That is where mine backed up.
I took the top off when I had the whole assembly out. There wasn't really any resistance when I was pushing the valve down and spraying it. I wouldn't call it smooth as silk but it wasn't hard. And the pipe seemed to be okay after spraying compressed air through it. There was a small pile of carbon deposits in the engine block between the EGR and pipe but compressed air blew most of that out too. I didn't stick a hanger wire into the pipe, I suspect it was more clogged than I thought. Guess I should buy a turbo inlet if I have to do it all again.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 06:05 AM   #84
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It should move freely. Any resistance, CEL. Clean it again, but do it in depth this time.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 06:22 AM   #85
 
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Originally Posted by WhoKnowsWho View Post
I took the top off when I had the whole assembly out. There wasn't really any resistance when I was pushing the valve down and spraying it. I wouldn't call it smooth as silk but it wasn't hard. And the pipe seemed to be okay after spraying compressed air through it. There was a small pile of carbon deposits in the engine block between the EGR and pipe but compressed air blew most of that out too. I didn't stick a hanger wire into the pipe, I suspect it was more clogged than I thought. Guess I should buy a turbo inlet if I have to do it all again.
You really have to make sure that the valve isn't sticking at all before you put it back on. moving it and spraying brake cleaner in there isn't enough.

Did you remove the pipe before spraying compressed air in there? Some people have noted that the pipe has caked up carbon in there and you need to stick a hanger down there to break it up.

GL man!
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 Old 04-13-2011, 03:10 PM   #86
 
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Originally Posted by RichB View Post
You really have to make sure that the valve isn't sticking at all before you put it back on. moving it and spraying brake cleaner in there isn't enough.

Did you remove the pipe before spraying compressed air in there? Some people have noted that the pipe has caked up carbon in there and you need to stick a hanger down there to break it up.

GL man!
I did remove the pipe but didn't stick a hanger through it. Well, at least taking it all apart a second time will be much quicker and easier.
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 Old 04-18-2011, 03:03 PM   #87
 
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Great write up, did this yesterday among other maintenance TLC.

Dont waste your time with brake cleaner, oven cleaner was awesome! squeaky clean now, like brand new.
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 Old 04-18-2011, 03:31 PM   #88
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Great! Since my how-to saved you $430 on a new egr and or helped, please donate a minimum of $10 to the forums. Go to the top of the main page and select donate. Thanks!
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 Old 05-14-2011, 07:53 AM   #89
 
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If you remove the TB is it necessary to replace the thin metal gasket?
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 Old 05-14-2011, 03:23 PM   #90
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Only if you lose or damage it.
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 Old 05-14-2011, 07:28 PM   #91
 
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Mine came apart beautifully, and I was able to reuse it.
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 Old 05-14-2011, 08:26 PM   #92
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Cool. If my how to worked, donate $10 to support the forum and go VIP...
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 Old 05-16-2011, 06:37 PM   #93
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
Only if you lose or damage it.
Originally Posted by clydesdale29er View Post
Mine came apart beautifully, and I was able to reuse it.
Thanks, yeah mine looked ok and seems to be working fine.

Gonna get some over cleaner and clear up this P0401 code. Thanks for this useful write up.
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 Old 05-17-2011, 07:03 PM   #94
 
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^^post back yur results w/oven cleaner por favor
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 Old 05-17-2011, 07:55 PM   #95
 
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Very well. However, i won't be getting to that this weekend. Should have it done by the end of the month.
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 Old 05-17-2011, 08:28 PM   #96
 
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have any of you doing this had success cleaning your throttle body with oven cleaner? since it's off and all.. and mazda wants 70 dorra to do it..
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 Old 05-22-2011, 06:36 PM   #97
 
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subbing for future use. thanks.
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 Old 05-24-2011, 01:30 PM   #98
 
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My two week old (to me) MS6 has shown up with the CEL twice now. The first time it came on two Fridays ago I had it scanned at AutoZone and it was the EGR valve code. The CEL went off the next time I filled the car with gas. I thought maybe it was the gas cap or the gas being below the 1/8th tank level, but last night on the way to the grocery store the CEL came back on. Guess I'm going to have to attemp to give the EGR a cleaning this weekend. Glad I found this thread because it's a stellar DIY so hopefully all goes well and I can report back with a non-existant CEL.
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 Old 05-24-2011, 01:40 PM   #99
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Every 4th drive, the CEL will go off.

I have also found a way to check for clogged EGR versus clogged pipe.

Take the 4 screws off the top and remove it, (you might need to remove some electrical connectors) and be careful not to lose the metal gasket. Push down on the plunger for the EGR. See if it sticks at all. Sticky=EGR cleaning too. Hotdog town a hallway, then try cleaning the pipe itself. It might save some time. Not exactly how true this is, but it worked recently for me. pipe was clogged again, EGR was not sticky.

Will edit post #1 with this info.

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 Old 05-24-2011, 07:01 PM   #100
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
Every 4th drive, the CEL will go off.

I have also found a way to check for clogged EGR versus clogged pipe.

Take the 4 screws off the top and remove it, (you might need to remove some electrical connectors) and be careful not to lose the metal gasket. Push down on the plunger for the EGR. See if it sticks at all. Sticky=EGR cleaning too. Hotdog town a hallway, then try cleaning the pipe itself. It might save some time. Not exactly how true this is, but it worked recently for me. pipe was clogged again, EGR was not sticky.

Will edit post #1 with this info.

And for all brownies who have used this how-to and not donated, fuck you, donate.
I figured the gas fill up was just pure coincidence. So literally every 4th drive shuts the CEL off? What's the purpose of the CEL then? I mean why would Mazda make it come on but then turn off a few drives later if it's serious enough to throw the CEL in the first place? There's no ill effects driving with the CEL light on until I can around to cleaning the EGR out is there?
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 Old 05-24-2011, 07:15 PM   #101
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It is not life altering so keep driving. No idea on the process, but it is not major, I guess that is why it goes out. It will come back though.
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 Old 05-25-2011, 10:54 AM   #102
 
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Well mine has stayed off for over 10k miles after just switching to good gas and running a bottle of techron through it. (it was on pretty solid before that) I only fill up at Chevron or QuickTrip now.

Far easier than taking it apart.
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 Old 05-25-2011, 11:09 AM   #103
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i have noticed it is more apparent in colder temps, too. I have not had any problems with it since colder weather.

Seafoam treatment also have been shown to make the CEL stay off for a while. Bottom line, if the valve is stuck, CEL. If the pipe is clogged, CEL. Clear it out, the problem goes away.
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 Old 05-29-2011, 12:05 AM   #104
 
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Thanks so much for this DIY write up. I tackled this today and was amazed at how clogged my EGR tube was. I could not blow any air through it at all until I let it soak in brake cleaner and ran a few pieces of rag through it with some wire. The EGR valve didn't seem stuck but it was caked with carbon and even had a dead spider chilling on the top of the plunger. The hardest part was getting the hose clamp off the TB inlet which I struggled with for 30 minutes. The bolt at the end of the EGR tube was a bitch too because I could only turn it a fraction of a turn each time due to the tight space, but I finally pulled out the adjustable wrench and made quick work of it. I would have taken more photos but it was a damn dirty job especially once the brake cleaner came out, but here's a few shots from the process.

Nothing like breaking the seal with a new car by pulling a bunch of parts off of it.




Spider power


Lots 'o carbon




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 Old 05-29-2011, 04:11 AM   #105
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Glad you got it worked out. Lol at the spider.
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 Old 05-29-2011, 11:40 AM   #106
 
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I wonder how the spider got in there?
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 Old 05-29-2011, 12:34 PM   #107
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There is an opening on the bottom
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 Old 05-29-2011, 12:55 PM   #108
 
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Good to see you here ST!
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 Old 05-29-2011, 09:20 PM   #109
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
There is an opening on the bottom
I thought the system is a closed loop. I guess the spider had to come in from somewhere.
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 Old 05-30-2011, 05:25 PM   #110
 
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Originally Posted by SuperTrooper169 View Post
Thanks so much for this DIY write up. I tackled this today and was amazed at how clogged my EGR tube was. I could not blow any air through it at all until I let it soak in brake cleaner and ran a few pieces of rag through it with some wire. The EGR valve didn't seem stuck but it was caked with carbon and even had a dead spider chilling on the top of the plunger. The hardest part was getting the hose clamp off the TB inlet which I struggled with for 30 minutes. The bolt at the end of the EGR tube was a bitch too because I could only turn it a fraction of a turn each time due to the tight space, but I finally pulled out the adjustable wrench and made quick work of it. I would have taken more photos but it was a damn dirty job especially once the brake cleaner came out, but here's a few shots from the process.

Nothing like breaking the seal with a new car by pulling a bunch of parts off of it.




Spider power


Lots 'o carbon




Man i have to do this but im so not looking forward to doing this lol. Im lazy but needs to get done.
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 Old 06-01-2011, 11:04 AM   #111
 
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Get a 12pk before u start.
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 Old 06-16-2011, 08:28 PM   #112
 
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Great write up. I will be doing this tomorrow.
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 Old 06-16-2011, 08:45 PM   #113
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Have fun!
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 Old 06-17-2011, 09:32 PM   #114
 
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My P0401 code came back today. Its like my car is saying "CLEAN THE FUCKING EGR ALREADY......JEEEEEZZZ!!!".
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 Old 06-18-2011, 06:28 AM   #115
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Originally Posted by Mistersix View Post
My P0401 code came back today. Its like my car is saying "CLEAN THE FUCKING EGR ALREADY......JEEEEEZZZ!!!".
So why don't you just uncheck the P0401 code in ATR?

Does this not work on the MS6?
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 Old 06-19-2011, 09:07 AM   #116
 
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Originally Posted by cld12pk2go View Post
So why don't you just uncheck the P0401 code in ATR?

Does this not work on the MS6?
Didn't know you could do that. I'm having AP issues atm.
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 Old 06-19-2011, 10:46 AM   #117
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Originally Posted by Mistersix View Post
Didn't know you could do that. I'm having AP issues atm.
Your path to WIN in ATR is to click on:

Edit, Advanced Parameters, Toggles (Base), and then unselect P0401.
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 Old 06-21-2011, 10:10 PM   #118
 
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Great write up man. I was just gonna clean the tube before reading this. My plunger was stuck to the point that it couldn't have been operating (not that this is a bad thing, but I can't have a CEL on when I trade in the car a few months down the road ) I have 85k miles and it was horrible; oil was dripping out of my throttle body (thought it was coolant drops, definately not coolant) and was littering my entire intake tract. Thanks to whoever suggested the oven cleaner, I got some stuff that foams up and cleaned the shit outta this thing and my throttle body. Seafoam up next; she's gotta make it through the summer...
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 Old 07-06-2011, 12:55 PM   #119
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I haven't popped this code as of yet, but my question is: Will this help with rough idling even after warm up? I've been idling erratically lately and I'm thinking this is a good place to start. The weather has been hot lately and on the first start of the day, the idle seems to be excessively high as some people mentioned this was a symptom. Thanks in advanced.
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 Old 07-06-2011, 01:47 PM   #120
 
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Originally Posted by AtTheDriveIn View Post
I haven't popped this code as of yet, but my question is: Will this help with rough idling even after warm up? I've been idling erratically lately and I'm thinking this is a good place to start. The weather has been hot lately and on the first start of the day, the idle seems to be excessively high as some people mentioned this was a symptom. Thanks in advanced.
Nah, this code usually occurs when it is cold outside. To me it sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Check your hoses and maybe you'll find something. The small hose at the top of the BPV is a good place to start.
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