HOW TO: Clean your valves - easy & cheap

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 Hey we all contribute and we all learn together. That's the power of the forum! 5 hours? Man you move fast. I soaked the first 6 valves overnight. then tried the better method of walnut shells followed by B12 on the last 2 valves which was way faster. 1st time doing anything is always slow. Reading instructions, finding the bolts...etc. First time using the walnut shell and gun too. Slow and steady. I would love to have the solenoid if you don't mind. PMing you. Lex

I think slower the better for this job. And using wall nut blaster is better as well. We did buy walnuts and the gun, but it didn't work out for us. So, end up cleaning everything with brushes. Which is a very good alternative!

[Lex2007]

The only thing I forgot to do it open the valves and clean the carbon hanging down off the valves into the open cylinder.

That then needs to get vacuumed or blown out of the cylinder.

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 The only thing I forgot to do it open the valves and clean the carbon hanging down off the valves into the open cylinder. That then needs to get vacuumed or blown out of the cylinder.

If you want to get that anal then I'll take a looong time. Plus I'm not sure you want to risk having some media stuck in the combustion chamber...

Oh, BTW I hope you had or installed catch can which at it... If not, you'll valves will look the same as they were very soon.

[Lex2007]

I meant just with brush...to get the last bits off. Not with media blasting.

Installed new PCV but no catchcan.

Don't know which to get. also don't know if its worth it without also deleting EGR, but I don't want check engine light. I don't have a way to clear the codes.

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 Don't know which to get. also don't know if its worth it without also deleting EGR, but I don't want check engine light. I don't have a way to clear the codes.

Oh, yea, EGR too. The quick way to close it is just unplug the wires that go to EGR. The default position of the valve is closed.

Catch can = JBR! @jbarone; hock this man up

I would also get GBR delete, so you can for sure close it off.

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by Constantin Oh, yea, EGR too. The quick way to close it is just unplug the wires that go to EGR. The default position of the valve is closed. Catch can = JBR! @jbarone; hock this man up I would also get GBR delete, so you can for sure close it off.

Barone is too expensive. Its just a can to catch liquids and some plumbing.

GBR? Wuz dat?

If the EGR us unplugged will it not throw codes?

[theurgy]

It's more than just a can. It has venting and filters built into it.
Look into the Matt Damond cans or rig up your own with some Saikou Michi can.

[IMASA]

Posting if anyone is curious to see what the valves look like for a speed3 with methanol injection, EGR blocked off and OCC.

Car Details:
Mileage: ~92k kms
EGR blocked off since ~30k kms
OCC since ~30k kms
Methanol injection since ~60k kms
Seafoamed 4x, as recentlly as ~8k kms ago
Oil: Mostly Rotella T6 5w40 but have since switched to Redline 5w40 to reduce deposits.
Driving style: 100% city driving


Diagnosis:
TB, Intake manifold and VTCS flaps were pretty clean. VTCS flaps had minimal carbon deposits. This is where methanol injection helps keep things clean. The carbon around the valves was moist, sticky and paste like.

#1



#2



#3



#4

[Lex2007]

92,000 km aint much.

I recommend you drive more.

[Jrs7686]

Originally Posted by IMASA Posting if anyone is curious to see what the valves look like for a speed3 with methanol injection, EGR blocked off and OCC. Car Details: Mileage: ~92k kms EGR blocked off since ~30k kms OCC since ~30k kms Methanol injection since ~60k kms Seafoamed 4x, as recentlly as ~8k kms ago Oil: Mostly Rotella T6 5w40 but have since switched to Redline 5w40 to reduce deposits. Driving style: 100% city driving Diagnosis: TB, Intake manifold and VTCS flaps were pretty clean. VTCS flaps had minimal carbon deposits. This is where methanol injection helps keep things clean. The carbon around the valves was moist, sticky and paste like. #1 #2 #3 #4

Did you end up cleaning valves? If so what did you use? I ask because I just started my cleaning with similar setup

[pbmadman]

Originally Posted by jack_hammer well, if nothing else your post proves that even someone with no idea of what they're doing can clean the valves.

I had no idea* what I was doing and following this, plus a how-to on IM removal here and the writeup on JBR managed to get it done with no issues. I just had a few notes.

1) The 1" hose you used. Was it 1" ID or OD? I bought some 1"ID hose and could not cram it into either runner. When I do this again I'll be sure to have some smaller stuff on hand.

2) If you are buying the media blaster for this purpose and do not have a air compressor with a decent CFM rating, consider buying a dedicated media blaster from HF. That little gun is total crap. I had a 2-stage dryer on and it clogged non-stop using fine media. Gangster style or not.

3) I used a syringe to get the B12 out of the can and into the runners, 20cc fills the large one perfectly to the top of the stem and 17cc fills the small one.

4) Not having a fluid transfer pump nor a shop vac I'd want to let explode, I made this little venturi pump, and had the other end in a bucket with some rags. I cut a small slit in the side of the tubing stuck the tip about halfway in. I did the blasting first followed by B12 and still managed to nearly clog the tubing with the crap is sucked up. I have 130k miles and the previous owner never cleaned the valves. I wish my pictures came out better, the valves were just downright gooey.



*no idea in that I have very little experience on cars but work on particle accelerators for my job and am very experienced taking things apart and keeping things clean and being careful.

[Lex2007]

Does the car run better? Stronger? Smoother? No diff?

[pbmadman]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 Does the car run better? Stronger? Smoother? No diff?

Its minor, but very noticeable. Starting was terrifying, but once it actually started it ran fine in like 5 seconds.

My idle is now smooth. After the engine is fully warmed my idle was rougher than I wanted, after the cleaning it is perfect.

I was getting uneven power at around 3k RPM under moderate acceleration. I cleaned the IM as well, especially the swirl valves, and I'm wondering if is has more to do with that than the intake valves, but either way its completely gone. It felt like a miss but was more subtle than I'd expect.

My LT Fuel trims went from -5.5 to -2.8 after the cleaning too.

In the end I'm quite happy I did it, maybe I'm imagining things but someone else said they felt like it was a smoother application of power and I'd completely agree.

One more tip though, if you take off the swirl valve actuator, maybe you want to follow these instructions, its a TSB from Mazda. Short of it is to use a hair dryer on the plastic.

[PapaBruno]

Sorry to rez this thread, but I'm looking into cleaning my valves very soon (like the next couple days). Now I see a few threads on valve cleaning, but has anyone had any experience with the B12 eating away at seals or any other hoses/fittings? Seems like Seafoam is a little less harmful, but could also be a little less effective at cleaning the valves.
I just got done cleaning my IM, bought a replacement gasket, ordered an EGR delete kit and stage 1 OCC + VTA option from DM, just replaced my high-pressure fuel line with the CS line, and am in the process of upgrading my injector seals to the CS seals.
Talk about a process....

[MSMS3]

^ ^ ^ Just no. What a shame

[PapaBruno]

Originally Posted by MSMS3 ^ ^ ^ Just no. What a shame

Ah, thanks for the reminder. I saw this the other day, but got pulled back to work. Just reported it.

[MS3Shadow]

Thanks for letting us know!