How-To: Front Sway Bar Bushing replacement w/o dropping subframe

[DeadWayt]

There are quite a few threads out there claiming this is possible, but none that are easily searchable that describe it very accurately/thoroughly, so I thought I'd steal a couple of Haltech's downpipe install pics for illustration purposes and describe what I found to be the least painful way to replace the front sway bar bushings without dropping the front subframe.

Required tools:
Ramps, jack + jack stands, or lift
Socket wrench w/ 14mm and 10mm sockets
Blue thread locker (not strictly required, but it might save you from having to tighten bolts again in three weeks)

Suggestions:
I kept both 3/8" and 1/2" wrenches handy for this. A 3/8" wrench fits in the accessible area better, but a 1/2" wrench will make it easier to reach the bolts on the front side of the bar (you'll be reaching over it to access them).
Use ramps or a four-post lift rather than jack stands. I've found it's easier to button up suspension components with everything loaded.

Steps:

1) Jack it up, ramp it up, lift it up, etc. Make sure you have the nose way up in the air. You'll need to be able to scoot past the rear (dogbone) mount area for ease of access. Chock the wheels if necessary.

2) Slide on back past the front subframe. The first thing you want to do is remove the chassis brace and skidplate that protects the fuel lines (all one piece). It's held on by four 14mm bolts and one 10mm bolt. Remove the 10mm bolt (red highlight) first so that the plate isn't hanging from it after you remove the 14s. No sense bending it up too badly.

Step 1.jpg

This weighs a couple pounds and will fall and hit you in the face once it's free if you don't keep your hand on it. So, y'know, do that. Or don't. It's your face.

3) Now that you have some room to work, get on your back so that you can look toward the front of the car. You should be looking at the back of the engine. If you peek up over the subframe, you should be able to eyeball the steering rack and at least part of the sway bar, depending on how big your head is. It's okay if you can't see it. You just need to reach it.

I found the best way to do this was to reach up through the exhaust hangers and then hook my arm toward the outside of the car to reach the two bolts holding each bracket. Use the clearance of the exhaust tunnel to crank the wrench. This is a lot easier than trying to fit the wrench in at a straight north-south angle.

Step2.jpg

From here, it's as simple (or not) as undoing the four bolts, yanking the brackets, and fitting the new ones. The crossmember is raised where the brackets are anchored, and between those bumps and the shaft collars on the bar itself, you should be able to feel around in there to re-attach the brackets with minimal frustration. If you have small hands, you can also reach your fingers in under the loop in the sway bar from the wheel well to feel around for the front bolt holes. That's easier than trying to angle them in from the back.

That's it. Don't forget to reinstall the chassis brace/skidplate. Crack a beer. You're done.