How to MS3 Catch Can Install with tons of pics.

[evidence]

Originally Posted by flyrevs2 Where can I get some 5/8" vacuum resistant hose - I want to hook up my cc but can find any hose!!!! All the local auto parts stores dont have any. Thanks!

Goto Lowes or Home Depot, in the plumbing section they have clear braided nylon hoses.

[flyrevs2]

Originally Posted by evidence Goto Lowes or Home Depot, in the plumbing section they have clear braided nylon hoses.

does it look gay ? I was hoping for some BLACK hose, not some gay crap that looks like it came from the 70's. Thanks for the tip however, if I can't find anything else I may have to go this route.

[evidence]

Originally Posted by flyrevs2 does it look gay ? I was hoping for some BLACK hose, not some gay crap that looks like it came from the 70's. Thanks for the tip however, if I can't find anything else I may have to go this route.

Oh your one of those guys, it has to look pretty even though you cant see it unless your under the car.

No, it doesn't look gay, and it's quite functional. Just get some vacuum hose if you prefer. Vacuum is not made for carying oil or fuel, but honestly not that much will be going through it, and the stock hose is vacuum.

At any rate you can't see it from the engine bay.

[flyrevs2]

Originally Posted by evidence Oh your one of those guys, it has to look pretty even though you cant see it unless your under the car. No, it doesn't look gay, and it's quite functional. Just get some vacuum hose if you prefer. Vacuum is not made for carying oil or fuel, but honestly not that much will be going through it, and the stock hose is vacuum. At any rate you can't see it from the engine bay.

not pretty - just MANLY !!!!!!!!!!!!

[dcphantom]

man, getting the hose onto the original pcv was a super pain in the ass. I think it was because of the hose i used. It was very rigid and made this job a huge pain in the ass.

[Wenis Prinkle]

Im installing my occ next week and was wondering if there is a way to not only connect the OCC to the intake manifold and crank case but to also merge it with he valve cover pcv to intake line and eliminate the contaminated air from the valve cover from entering our intake pipe. will this work? can i basically keep the oem valve cover pcv and just "T" it into the line that connects the crank case to the OCC? please advise!!!!

[GQ_WhiteMS3]

I do believe you will need a 2nd catch can for that.

[bnoon]

Pics of where I mounted my SM catch can. I don't even have to lift the car or use tools to drain it.

I mounted it via heavy duty ty-wraps to the bracket that holds to two hard lines that run on the passenger's side bottom of the radiator (I didn't even look to see if those were AC lines, oil lines, or whatever). I used a 3" hole saw to cut the hole in the 3 pieces of plastic that converge on that area with no problems. Gotta watch those damn parking curbs even more now though, I tweaked it just a bit even with it NOT being the lowest thing hanging down... Still though, it works like a charm.

I also did something I doubt nobody else has done. I used copper hard line instead of the heavy duty hose. I tried the braided clear hose from Home Depot and it's not fuel resistant and was getting some deforming. The heavy duty heater hose was getting some collapsing, so I got some 5/8" nominal (1/2" ID) formable copper tube and bent my own hard lines. I'll get pics at the next oil change.

[steven88]

will fuel hose from autozone work? they sell 5/8th ID for cheap and it looks like its reinforced on the inside

[Addikted To Boost]

thats what i used and it seems like its collapsing a little bit but not completely.

[PaPaSpeed]

I first used heater hose and it collapsed. The same happened when I used the braided nylon from Home Depot. I got a thick walled 5/8" ID water hose at Home Depot, its about $2.00 a foot, and it seems to be holding up. They sell it in the same section as the heater hose. Yes this is the third time I replaced the hose. Hopefully, the 3rd time is the charm.

[dcphantom]

I used marine grade hose

[Manolito's MS3]

Nice write up...i appreciate the time u put in and explaining how to install it.

[eumylove]

Nice info

[bc2292]

great write up! very helpful thanks man

[Bonafide_Spd3]

Sucks that advanced auto's pcv valve lets air escape on both sides of the valve. I need to go buy the factory valve now. Unless it's suppose to do that?

[evidence]

Originally Posted by Bonafide_Spd3 Sucks that advanced auto's pcv valve lets air escape on both sides of the valve. I need to go buy the factory valve now. Unless it's suppose to do that?

Air should only be able to escape one direction. If blowing on both ends of the PCV allows air through, yea, just goto a dealership and grab one, under $10 IIRC. Some air might leak one direction with light pressure as it takes a bit to plug up.

[Bonafide_Spd3]

I'm an idiot, I should have checked it before I bought everything to and put it all together. Thanks for the info

[carfanatic101]

sweet write up! thanks for the info

[cudaman]

Consider using the high pressure check-valves from PTP performance. They are generally SRT4 folks, but the specs could meet/exceed a 2nd PCV valve and hold the flow forward and stop high pressure boost backwards. I have one my stage3 Neon SRT-4 and it works great. When I get around to an OCC on the MS3, I'll go the same way more than likely.

PT-Performance.com

Excerpt of specs:

So after doing months of testing and we finally got a competitor valve for testing... we are ready to release our PCV check valve.

Test results:

Ours

Pressure hold: 125 psi, and spike to 170 before leaking
CV (flow): 1.26
Crack pressure: .58 hg (14.43 test)

Competitor:

Pressure hold: 100 psi and spike to 110
CV (flow): .96 (not enough to support proper vacuum signal to the OEM PCV system, thus causing oil to leak from the valve cover vent hole)
Crack pressure: 1.11hg (14.43 test)

We have used these check valves for the last 5 years for every turbo charged application on the market, we have had zero issues with them (other than noise indicating that they are working).

Our valves come with complete directions for install and are sized for the PCM supply line (proper size). The kit comes with 2 zip ties, the valve with fittings, and directions for install. Takes 5 minutes to install.

Reason you need one?

The factory PCV system leaks at pressures above 17 psi (proven this with boost leak checking). Not only that, but you will see oil collecting in your stock air box due to the system blowing oil out the drivers side vent hole (bad). The consistant boost pressures over time will wear out the stock PCV valve, thus the need for a check valve.

$39.50 + shipping (normally around $4.50)

We have used this on the shop car boosting over 35 psi without any problems, and the PCV valve is still brand new. We ran this for 20k miles so far on the car without one adverse effect on emissions or oil control. Its a must for your car if you plan on rasing the boost levels. I will be adding them to the site in the coming week, or you can send payment to our PP account at ptperformance@comcast.net for a total fo $44.00

[cudaman]

Originally Posted by cudaman Consider using the high pressure check-valves from PTP performance. They are generally SRT4 folks, but the specs could meet/exceed a 2nd PCV valve and hold the flow forward and stop high pressure boost backwards. I have one my stage3 Neon SRT-4 and it works great. When I get around to an OCC on the MS3, I'll go the same way more than likely. PT-Performance.com Excerpt of specs: So after doing months of testing and we finally got a competitor valve for testing... we are ready to release our PCV check valve. Test results: Ours Pressure hold: 125 psi, and spike to 170 before leaking CV (flow): 1.26 Crack pressure: .58 hg (14.43 test) Competitor: Pressure hold: 100 psi and spike to 110 CV (flow): .96 (not enough to support proper vacuum signal to the OEM PCV system, thus causing oil to leak from the valve cover vent hole) Crack pressure: 1.11hg (14.43 test) We have used these check valves for the last 5 years for every turbo charged application on the market, we have had zero issues with them (other than noise indicating that they are working). Our valves come with complete directions for install and are sized for the PCM supply line (proper size). The kit comes with 2 zip ties, the valve with fittings, and directions for install. Takes 5 minutes to install. Reason you need one? The factory PCV system leaks at pressures above 17 psi (proven this with boost leak checking). Not only that, but you will see oil collecting in your stock air box due to the system blowing oil out the drivers side vent hole (bad). The consistant boost pressures over time will wear out the stock PCV valve, thus the need for a check valve. $39.50 + shipping (normally around $4.50) We have used this on the shop car boosting over 35 psi without any problems, and the PCV valve is still brand new. We ran this for 20k miles so far on the car without one adverse effect on emissions or oil control. Its a must for your car if you plan on rasing the boost levels. I will be adding them to the site in the coming week, or you can send payment to our PP account at ptperformance@comcast.net for a total fo $44.00

Using the above check valve instead of the 2nd PCV valve will also let you be less "directionally dependent" of the 2nd PCV valve having to have the orange side down as per below and stated in the directions on page 1:

The valve-based check-valve is also not "directional dependent" like one of those wobbly 2nd PCV Valves. Hence, you don't have to worry about the orange end staying "down" as the directions state below in the excerpt. It uses a custom plenum and spring valve I believe that will work in any direction.

Excerpt from poster who did an excellent job:

Updated!! Now connect the short hose with PCV valve to the intake manifold nipple. Then tighten down the clamp. And you are done connecting the hoses! Important!! The orange end must face straight down or the PCV may not function properly!

[ihadacivicsi]

Awesome writeup and pics! Thanks. Is there a location that is available that allows easier draining of the OCC?

[gamma500]

Anybody care to comment on the procedure of just venting the crankcase PCV to atmosphere and plugging the IM nipple on a MS3 not running higher than normal boost..?

Also, on the valve cover vent, is there a PCV there ?? (someone mentioned that was the case but I don't see why since it doesn't see boost pressure). Is the direction of air in this valve cover system from valve cover to air intake or does it draw air into the valve cover, subsequently the crankcase like some of the older recirculation systems ?

[nickdbz]

Is anyone having problems when using the OEM PCV valve on the CC setup? I got one from a dealer and it seems like a cheap piece of sh*#. I know it has to be positioned properly but even when doing this, it seems to leak a small amount of air instead of sealing. And as far as the valve cover breather and the PT Performance pill, I used a section of heater hose with a small socket inside to reduce the outlet size the same way the PTP Pill does. Bit of a rig job but it works. It's just vented to atmosphere now, not recircing back into the intake.

[cudaman]

I can't send PMs yet since I'm new (less than 15 posts). Adding this here since Yammer1 wanted to know via PM. Can't answer back just yet.

You can get any size check valve you want from McMaster-Carr (which is what I ended up doing. I'm still designing my catch-can set up). But McMaster-Carr has a bevy of different check-valves, both male-end, female-end, and then get hose-barbs). I ended up getting the 3/8" valve with the following specs:


7775K53 BRASS SPRING-LOADED PISTON CHECK VALVE, 3/8" NPTF DRYSEAL FEM CONN, FLUOROELASTOMER SEAT

Run a search on McMaster-Carr

I am also trying to figure out a way to get my catch-can to mount on the passenger side corner near the heat shield. But I have concerns about the hose length and low spots after engine shut-off that might cause some pooling in the hose instead of the catch-can.

[MGM_GT3]

Nice ' How To '

[TRex]

Originally Posted by trickytwelveinch Don't want to thread jack! But I was browsing some forums and end ended up on the ozmpsclub (Ausies) mazda forums. Nevertheless, I found his pictures of his installation: Too bad this setup is useless... so for anyone who is even thinking about doing something like this- you better check yourself.

curious as to why this setup is bad....is it because the can is located too high?...i thought this system was under vacuum so why would it matter if it located higher up in the engine bay?

also the can that i purchased came with interchangable 5/8 1/2 in connections....would it be ok to run 2 different sizes for ease of installation? or is that a no no?

[MS3_CLARITY]

Nice write up. Thanks for the post.

[ReD BoY]

Originally Posted by ihadacivicsi Awesome writeup and pics! Thanks. Is there a location that is available that allows easier draining of the OCC?

yes, lower

[G Sp33dy]

this still looks like a big PITA. I want it so bad though arghh

[Fatguy729]

Thanks for the write up, hopefully he's still making these so I can order one!

[tnayre]

Originally Posted by JimmyMac Finding a good route for the hoses can be tough. There are many possibilities here. I went over many situations. One way will bring you right up against an a/c line mount. But with the engine rocking back and forth, it will just end up cutting a hole in the hose over time. You can simply just bring the hose straight down the front of the engine. Then over and straight up into the OCC. But I wanted to avoid the PCV to OCC hose from dipping down below the OCC level. Another way, you have to be cautious of the long serpentine belt. My way brings it very close. You will see a pic of this. I will be keeping an eye over this as time goes on. But I don't think there will be trouble. The engine will rock back and forth. But the hose should rock with it. So let's get started. Step 5 Routing your PCV to OCC hose. Tools required; Razor or knife. Screw driver or sockets (for the clamps). If you use socket, you will need a 12" extender, and a 6" extender. The first hose I hook up is the PCV to OCC hose. The fitting on the top of the Saikou Michi OCC is the location for this hose. Routing this hose can be very difficult and hard to show with pictures. I'll have to photoshop these pictures to better illustrate them better. So bare with me. I should of used a clear or red hose! hehe. First route up the hose between the fog light and the windshield washer tank. It's going to curve up and over the chassis and towards the radiator area. You are gonna have to work it around some wires and hoses. Then aim it right under the intake manifold. Again, this is gonna be hard. You will need small hands for this. Or be very patient! The hose is hard to pick out in this pic from the top of the engine. But you can see it in this pic at the center. It's the hose at an angle going under the electrical wires and under the intake manifold. I'll photoshop this later on to make it more clear. Here you can see the same shot from under the car. You can see the green PCV valve fitting at the top left of the pic. And you can see the end of the hose with a clamp on it. The hose will have to go over the shiny hose and connect right up to the PCV. Tighten it down with either a long screw driver. Or a socket wrench with the 12" and 6" extenders on it. Make sure there is a little slack in the hose. In the pic you can draw an imaginary line from the hose end, all the way down near the belt and over the chassis. Here is another pic of how close the hose will come to the belt. (The hose at an angle dead center.) Now with some slack, swing the hose right under the windshield washer tank and too the OCC. Cut the hose to length and tighten it down to the OCC top fitting. You are now done with the PVC to OCC hose! Step 6 Routing your OCC to Intake Manifold hose. Tools required; Razor or knife. Screw driver or sockets (for the clamps). If you use socket, you will need a 12" extender. This one is pretty simple. I'm not as worried about it dipping down below the OCC since this is the return line. And there should be NO oil returning back to the intake manifold. This line will also require the PCV valve (you bought) to be installed in it. This is to prevent the OCC from being pressurized when the intake manifold becomes pressurized from boost. First install one end of the hose to the remaining fitting on the OCC. And tighten the clamp. Next route the hose just under the radiator hose and in my case, right over the IC piping. You can see in the pic the hosing coming out of the OCC and disappears to the left. It bends and goes right between the radiator hose and IC pipe. Then comes up towards the top of the pic at an angle and blurs out. From here it's gonna go straight up the engine and to the intake manifold. But first we must connect the PCV to the other end of this hose. Added!! Remember that clear hose you bought from Lowes? Well cut off about an inch of it. Then slide it over the orange end of the factory PCV you just bought. Now the orange end will fit nicely into the other end of the black hose and seal properly! Updated!! Now slide on the short black hose to the green end of the PCV valve. Then tighten the clamp on the green and orange ends of the PCV. You should end up with something like this. Updated!! Now connect the short hose with PCV valve to the intake manifold nipple. Then tighten down the clamp. And you are done connecting the hoses! Important!! The orange end must face straight down or the PCV may not function properly! Step 7 Put back on your under tray and liners. Finished! Tools required; 10mm socket/nut driver. 8mm socket/nut driver. Now that the hoses are connected. Go over everything making sure they are secure and not obstructing anything. Make sure your mount is tight. Then pop in the wheel well fasteners. Bolt up the 3 screws to the liner. Bolt up your under tray liners. And all done!! Now draining the OCC is quite simple. There is a wing nut style drain at the very bottom. However in this install, it's all blocked off by the wheel well liner. I'll have to unbolt the liner just to drain it. However very soon, I will cut a small hole in the liner and connect a clear hose to the bottom of the OCC drain plug. This will make things a little easier. All I will need to do it pull off the under tray (which take about 1 minute for me to do). Then reach over and twist the nut to drain it. Simple enough. I would suggest maybe once a week checking your OCC. Make sure it is tight. No leaks anywhere. No rubbing. And draining it out. This will be a good measure of how often you have to drain it. It might be once a month. It might be every oil change. All cars are different. I hope this write up helps you out. I just wanted to share it with you. Enjoy! Updated!!! After almost a month. I drained out my OCC. This is what came out.... About a cup full of gas/gunk/oil. Nicely layered as it came out! This pic is a day of letting it settle.

do i need occ if my car doesn't have any after market parts yet?

[evidence]

Originally Posted by tnayre do i need occ if my car doesn't have any after market parts yet?

Always good to have, for the price its a great safety buffer that can help with fuel dilution in the oil, crank case pressure, and oil in the intake.

[jeff4880]

I'm wondering why return the PCV from the catch can back to the intake and not vent it through a valve cover breather to air? Then just cap off the nipple on the intake.
Jaz make a plastic brather tank with a filter allready on the top.

..:: JAZ PRODUCTS ::...

[dougefresh_]

Subbed for dipstick blowing out

[MSpeedzilla]

doing this tonight thanks for the awsome write up

[ReD BoY]

The percentage of brownies in this thread is ridiculous.

[adrianhan]

I just received the Saikou OCC from Matt Damon, without instructions, and there are a couple of parts that I am not sure where they go. I didn't put the car up yet but if any of you know where this goes, I appreciate it.

[adrianhan]

And this is the whole kit, if it helps, thanks.

[Etipp98]

The black hose I think goes on the drain fitting, and the male to male fitting I used to connect the new hose to the old black hose thats coming off the stock pcv.