Pulling the cams in the MZR

[qtrmile beast]

The HOW-TO is to show you how to pull your cams without pulling the head or timing cover.

Step one pull the valve cover. For those that have a TMIC pull that first.
At this point you will see the cams and the timing chain. Also while you are in there take a look on the underside of the valve cover above where the timing chain is to see if the chain has been hitting the valve cover. This is an indication that the chain may have been hitting and that is a sign of your chain or tensioner is going bad.

Next step is to pull the high pressure fuel pump housing:
Here are the bolts to the fuel pump housing.


Removed....




This line goes to the fuel rail..




Fuel pump harness and Feed and Return line:



Next install your blind plug.
Note i pulled one of the timing cover bolts and installed that in the BLIND PLUG hole. make sure you use the UPPER BLIND PLUG HOLE to do this. Also when installing it there is no need to TORQUE is down just go far enough til you feel a little tension. TIP: It might be best to use a 1/4in ratchet for this... This step is down so that when you loosen the exhaust cam sprocket to get the chain loose you will not loose tension on the tensioner because the timing chain guide will prevent that.






Next pull the EXHAUST CAM sprocket.




Next step is to pull the cam caps:

NOTE on the cam cap you will see numbers on each of them. Pay attention to the letters and the arrow that are inscribed on each of the caps. This pic shows the inscribed letter E 2 and also you see the arrow. The "E" is for exhaust and the "2" is for the second cap and the arrow is the direction the arrows should be pointing.





Now just lift your cam out of the head..

This is what it looks like with the cams out..

[qtrmile beast]

Now putting it back together............

If you didn't already have the pistons at TDC this is how you can find it....

VIDEO (This video is without the timing cover on)



This is for those that have the cover still installed and want to see what the crank bolt is doing..



If you done have the proper SST (CRANK ALIGNMENT TOOL) don't worry you can use this..
when you have found TDC install this until you feel a little tension. You dont have to tighten down as there is a flat spot on the crank that this will rest on and will prevent the crank from turning. FYI this will not prevent the crank from turning if you are trying to loosen the CRANK BOLT only when tighting it. No need to do anything with the crank bolt for this how-to FYI...



Now that you have found and lock down TDC you can install your cams.

Again there is no need to pull the timing cover...

Make sure that when you install the cams that the first lobe on the passengerside of the motor(timing chain side) are almost pointing to each other (ie. The exhaust cam lobe is pointing toward the intake cam lobe. This is TDC for the cams. Make sure this is done BEFORE you install the cam caps. Now install your cam caps with the exhaust caps all are pointing in the same direction and in order by number. Do that same for the intake cam caps. FYI on the last cam cap nearest the CDFP make sure you use some permatex in the grooves located on the underside of the cap. If there is already some on there clean it out and install new permetex.

Here is the SST( cam alignment tool)


Also when tightening the caps you want to do them in sequence like when you do your head. I believe its 12in lbs for each bolt. Once you have done this now you can attach your timing chain to your exhaust sprocket BEFORE YOU BOLT IT YOUR CAM and then while your chain is attached attach the sprocket to the cam. Now with the cover still on the car you will not have a chance to use a torque wrench.





Will update more later....

[Roddiy]

Now we just need a good set of Aftermarket cams...

[Bates5450]

Thanks for the post. It seems to me that it's easiest to just pull your motor out completely.

[ASHMS3]

Originally Posted by Bates5450 Thanks for the post. It seems to me that it's easiest to just pull your motor out completely.

Thanks for bumping a 2 year old thread for a useless comment, twatknuckle.

[Dropen]

Hi,
I was reading your post and i have a question about the bolt of this picture:
It say that the bolt has to be 10x1,5 and the size with the measure tape say that has to be Øx2 3/8", whats the real size of the bolt that i have to use?



Tnx!

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by Dropen Hi, I was reading your post and i have a question about the bolt of this picture: It say that the bolt has to be 10x1,5 and the size with the measure tape say that has to be Øx2 3/8", whats the real size of the bolt that i have to use? Tnx!

2 3/8" is a bit over 60mm.

In all reality, you can use a longer bolt than needed, provided you can maneuver it into the TDC blind plug hole.

[Gr8Speed]

Originally Posted by Dropen Hi, I was reading your post and i have a question about the bolt of this picture: It say that the bolt has to be 10x1,5 and the size with the measure tape say that has to be Øx2 3/8", whats the real size of the bolt that i have to use? Tnx!

M10x1.5 is a dia/thread pitch.

[Jeff23spl]

^^^This lol

[qtrmile beast]

The length of the bolt doesn't really matter because you have to take the half shaft(AXLE) out to get to the hole anyway. You just want it long enough to reach the crank comfortably. I found that this length was ideal and left about 1/4' left once the bolt was flush against the crank.

http://vid206.photobucket.com/albums...P1010149-1.mp4

This is NOT the bolt in the picture. I think this a head bolt but i think the reason you see me use the wrench is because it was almost out of thread by the time it got snug enough to the crank. Hence the reason i went with the all thread bolt.