Step by Step Brake Job from Grassroots Motorsports

[FUB4R3D]

Someone posted this before we went back in time (I don't recall who, so claim it if its yours), but I found it to be a good read for anyone doing their first bit of brake work on their Mazda.

Step-by-Step Brake Tech for Our Mazdaspeed3: 2008 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 Project Car: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

[JacksonMS30]

Thanks for reposting this. I subscribed to it and then it disapeared along with a lot of other useful stuff I had recently subscribed too.

[802MS3]

ha guess we should make this a sticky again...

[Biggs]

bookmarked the link thanks.

[rodrigo]

why does he have 2 sets of gloves???

and matt dammond had done one also

[2007speed3]

so as a ratard how much more work is involved in removing the rotors?

the pads themselves seems like a simple task!

[FreeFlyFreak]

Originally Posted by 2007speed3 so as a ratard how much more work is involved in removing the rotors? the pads themselves seems like a simple task!

On a 3 zero work.
Once you have removed the caliper the rotor comes right off, you may need rubber mallet or similar the first time.

On a 6 there is a screw to remove I believe (can be a bitch if it is rusted)

[rossisboss07]

^if there is a screw and it's rusted, apply PB blaster. then get a screwdriver that fits tight and you can beat on... apply turning force and hit the screwdriver at the same time to attempt to jar it loose... or get an impact driver so the hammer hit applies the twist for you, those things are great for rotors secured by screws.

Note. if just changing pads was all you wanted, then you can skip on removing the caliper bracket with the caliper like he did in the back... just need a 7mm allen, pop the little covers off and remove just the caliper. I've always at least machined the rotors when changing pads though.

[forcedinduktion]

same procedure for every car

[2007speed3]

Thanks, i think i need to do a brake job soon. 60k miles on the original pads and rotors i assume at least the pads need to be replaced.

how does one tell if the rotors need to be replaced too. There is at least a penny sized lip on the edge of the rotors so i could they still be turned instead of getting new pads or what?

[IshiKage]

i need to change mine today

[rossisboss07]

Originally Posted by 2007speed3 Thanks, i think i need to do a brake job soon. 60k miles on the original pads and rotors i assume at least the pads need to be replaced. how does one tell if the rotors need to be replaced too. There is at least a penny sized lip on the edge of the rotors so i could they still be turned instead of getting new pads or what?

rotors have a spec for thickness, that when reached, they need to be discarded, if the grooves or warping can be machined out without going below this "minimum machining" spec then you can get them turned on a lathe... if not, you need to replace. Idk the MS3/6 min. machining specs.

other things that would make me want to replace them are, excessive warpage, rotor thickness getting close to min. (thinner rotor warps easier again) or if the pads cut grooves into the rotor, grooves can take a lot to machine out, so sometimes it's easier to just replace them.

as an example, I did 2 pad changes on my MS3 (within 23k miles from new) first from stock to HPS pads up front, turned front rotors, rears were OK still.
second pad change I put Carbotech bobcats on all 4 corners, rears were excessively warped but had good thickness, so I turned them (warped from setting parking brake tooo soon after heavy braking), the HPS was easier on the front rotors than stock and I only had to turn off a few thousandths.

of all the average cars brake jobs that I do, I'd say I replace rotors due to rusting, warping, and grooves from running out of pad more than anything else. I only turn rotors every once in a while, because most people don't seem to pay attention to the squeaker on the pads to tell them when it's time to check pad thickness... so I end up replacing the rotors 'cuz they ground the hell out of them with the pad backing.

[FreeFlyFreak]

Originally Posted by rossisboss07 rotors have a spec for thickness, that when reached, they need to be discarded, if the grooves or warping can be machined out without going below this "minimum machining" spec then you can get them turned on a lathe... if not, you need to replace. Idk the MS3/6 min. machining specs.

For the 3

Minimum front disc plate thickness
23 mm {0.91 in}
Minimum front disc plate thickness after machining
23.8 mm {0.94 in}

Minimum read disc plate thickness
9 mm {0.35 in}
Minimum rear disc plate thickness after machining
9.8 mm {0.39 in}

[kabobulate]

Panning on this soon, thanks for the post.

[Qtip]

This is a great guide, but having done this a few times on the Speed3, what seems to be missing is applying brake grease to the back of the pads.

I find that I get squealing from the pads without some sort of brake grease.

[Dano]

anybody use the EBC yellow or any other color pads, impressions?

[FUB4R3D]

Originally Posted by Dano2010 anybody use the EBC yellow or any other color pads, impressions?

I'll be doing EBC Reds on Thursday, I'll let you know what I think compared to stock when I am done.

[Dash08]

Subbing for a good write up. Gonna have to do brakes eventually.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by FUB4R3D I'll be doing EBC Reds on Thursday, I'll let you know what I think compared to stock when I am done.

Are the Reds more of a track compound?

[FUB4R3D]

From what I have read, the Reds are a street compound. First time installing brakes on the speed, and with my old car I never ran anything special, so this should be interesting. I'm all for the lower dust levels compared to stocks.

To get track/street compound, you'll need yellows or blues.

[Tommy]

I've had the EBC Red's for over 1k miles now and I like them. Plenty of bite and there is less dust - not no dust but less.

[Dano]

Street compound should suffice for me as well.

Thanks

[forcedinduktion]

anyone running hawk hps ?

[Meder]

I am on hawk hps. They work well and are a killer price but they tend to have quite a bit of a soft spot at the start of the pedal travel. They are comparable to stock pads without the initial bite.

If you're not worried about losing that initial bite the hawk hps are a killer deal. I'll be going to something new next change.

[novice_01]

Very nice post, tyvm.

[FUB4R3D]

Well, after having done my brakes last night, I can easily say that those rears have the most asinine bolts that I have ever had to remove... Bottom one was OK, just took a little while to come out after I broke it loose, but the top one hiding behind the e-brake cable and brake line

+1 from the review for there being sharp bits and flying anti-rattle springs.

One tool I might add to a list would be a 1.5 ft/2 ft breaker bar to get the bolts loose if its the first time since the factory (This tool is completely useless on the rears). A flexible extension might also make life easier, but I have never used one and can't say how good it would be.

So far I'm happy enough with the EBC reds, but I am still just breaking them in so I cant give a really accurate description of them yet.

[Bujwazay]

Thanks for the post...gonna be doing this at some point in the next few weeks!

[Tommy]

Originally Posted by FUB4R3D Well, after having done my brakes last night, I can easily say that those rears have the most asinine bolts that I have ever had to remove... Bottom one was OK, just took a little while to come out after I broke it loose, but the top one hiding behind the e-brake cable and brake line +1 from the review for there being sharp bits and flying anti-rattle springs. One tool I might add to a list would be a 1.5 ft/2 ft breaker bar to get the bolts loose if its the first time since the factory (This tool is completely useless on the rears). A flexible extension might also make life easier, but I have never used one and can't say how good it would be. So far I'm happy enough with the EBC reds, but I am still just breaking them in so I cant give a really accurate description of them yet.

I used a 3" extension piece with a regular 12" flex head ratchet and had no problems at all getting those bolts out.

[Z-Indy]

Subbing for when I need to do mine.

Thanks for posting.

[JohnMS3]

Thanks for the link. will be using it in a few days

[jpasterjak]

Hi everyone...

Just stumbled across this thread. Thanks for the link!

To answer a couple of questions in some of the replies...

I've been running the yellows as my only pads since I installed them. Good street pad, good track pad. They don't take much heat to work just fine, and they don't make any noise on the street. Only downside is they're dusty, but that' s the price for most good pads. Grey wheels hide that nicely.

And as for changing gloves mid-shoot, that's mostly because the numerous razor-like edges on this car make latex gloves worthless. I simply can not overstate the amount of sharp edges and point on the undersides of these cars. My wife and I have five parrots, and between their boxcutter beaks and the MS3, my hands constantly look like I'm involved in some adult knife-fighting league at the post-apocalyptic community center.

Again, thanks for the plug. I need to go browse the rest of the forum now. Cool stuff here...

jg pasterjak
Grassroots Motorsports magazine
grassrootsmotorsports.com

[Soriku1489]

221702_220642701285702_100000199217775_997795_207227_s.jpgMy new rotors and brakes. Just put them on today.

[dar_vedar]

Originally Posted by FUB4R3D Someone posted this before we went back in time (I don't recall who, so claim it if its yours), but I found it to be a good read for anyone doing their first bit of brake work on their Mazda. Step by step brakes

guys this link does't seem to work...

[Intruder]

Originally Posted by dar_vedar guys this link does't seem to work...

Here: Step-by-Step Brake Tech for Our Mazdaspeed3: 2008 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 Project Car: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

[Haltech]

I updated the link. Thanks

[chomorro]

I just did this last night. Replaced front and back rotors and pads.

Forget about using the needle nose pliers for the rear caliper, its a huge pain in the ass!! Took almost 30-45 min to get one piston pushed in and it keeps popping out of the holes........ Hands hurt so i went to local auto store and rented the disc brake caliper tool, they put $55 bucks on hold on your card but the rental is FREE for two day, you get your money back when you return it. The other caliper took less then two min to push in using this tool. Also makes the front pistons cake!

On the peske rear caliper bolts I just used a 14mm wrench and a 15mm wrench on the end as an extension and they broke loose easily. I know its not "safe" but i do it all the time with gloves and make sure nothing is in the way of any body parts when the wrench makes a full turn. I used to have a metal tube that fit over the wrench shaft to use but i couldnt find it....

[Shawn_Diggidy]

Used this how to for my front brakes and rotors the other day. Easy peasy, hardest thing was breaking the bolts loose that were holding the calipers on.