acceptable LTFT's with CP-E Nano

[nick779]

i installed my nano today, and drove around for roughly 25 miles, and im seeing LTFT's from +3 to +12.5
and thats my only mod

is that normal? should it go down maybe after more driving?

[esr010]

Originally Posted by nick779 i installed my nano today, and drove around for roughly 25 miles, and im seeing LTFT's from +3 to +12.5 and thats my only mod is that normal? should it go down maybe after more driving?

Did you disconnect the battery so the ecu can relearn the trims fresh? It's not required but it will get them learned quicker I believe. What were your trims before?

Those aren't too bad though. They will continue to adjust.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nick779]

Originally Posted by esr010 Did you disconnect the battery so the ecu can relearn the trims fresh? It's not required but it will get them learned quicker I believe. What were your trims before? Those aren't too bad though. They will continue to adjust. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yea the neg was disconnected the whole 30-45 mins it took me to install,

and my ultragauge showed all LTFT's zeroed out when i restarted the car, and i checked every connection before i closed the hood including the turbo inlet

hopefully me getting into boost a few times around 10 miles(after install) didnt hurt anything

[the_caruch]

that seems about right for those values.

[nick779]

Originally Posted by the_caruch that seems about right for those values.

really? because i read +/- 8 is where it should be at

this morning they hit +13.5 at idle (22 degrees) after a 12 mile drive, and this afternoon they hit +14 (45 degrees) but after sitting at idle for a minute or 2 it hit +13 with a STFT of 2

all my LTFT's go down as throttle increases to about +5

still sound right?

and at what point does a CEL get thrown? +/- 25?

[PapaSmurf]

+ / - 8 at WOT, not sure about normal driving.

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by nick779 really? because i read +/- 8 is where it should be at this morning they hit +13.5 at idle (22 degrees) after a 12 mile drive, and this afternoon they hit +14 (45 degrees) but after sitting at idle for a minute or 2 it hit +13 with a STFT of 2 all my LTFT's go down as throttle increases to about +5 still sound right? and at what point does a CEL get thrown? +/- 25?

I think around +/- 16 points you get a too rich or lean at idle code. Sb is wacky with trims sometimes. Give it a good 100miles and see where you're at.

[wankular]

I don't think he has a standback unless I missed that part. With my Cobb intake I was seeing 13-14% and never below 10 no matter how many times I unplugged my battery. You probably need to start tuning your MAF. I got mine down to 3%.

I thought the +/- 8% was for normal driving and at WOT it should be zero?

[Spoolme]

+/- 10 cruising and yes it should zero out short and long term at wot. Give it some miles though and key cycles.

[nick779]

Originally Posted by wankular I don't think he has a standback unless I missed that part. With my Cobb intake I was seeing 13-14% and never below 10 no matter how many times I unplugged my battery. You probably need to start tuning your MAF. I got mine down to 3%.

how do you tune your maf without using something like AP and im not paying $600 for an AP

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by nick779 how do you tune your maf without using something like AP and im not paying $600 for an AP

Not to be a smart alec, but you won't be able to tune your maf without atr. You could send your map to someone with atr, have them alter the trims for you and then e-mail it back and reflash.

Those trim numbers are definitely a bit high , but before doing any maf calibrations, try to drive @ least 10 city miles (optimal = 50 miles).

[the_caruch]

Originally Posted by nick779 really? because i read +/- 8 is where it should be at this morning they hit +13.5 at idle (22 degrees) after a 12 mile drive, and this afternoon they hit +14 (45 degrees) but after sitting at idle for a minute or 2 it hit +13 with a STFT of 2 all my LTFT's go down as throttle increases to about +5 still sound right? and at what point does a CEL get thrown? +/- 25?

well +13 at idle isn't the greatest. but it's not terrible.

without a tuning solution you can't do anything about it though.

[nick779]

im not really worried about idle if its correcting itself, im just concerned with WOT when trims are ignored.

actually, now that i think about it, whats so bad about having trims not around 0, i mean the ecu is compensating for the additional air right? just not at WOT

[Spoolme]

but it does not carry throught the entire rpm range. So you run the risk of leaning out. At idle is not a problem, not saying that you want +/- 13. Wot is a problem.

[nick779]

Originally Posted by Spoolme but it does not carry throught the entire rpm range. So you run the risk of leaning out. At idle is not a problem, not saying that you want +/- 13. Wot is a problem.

well weird thing is, at idle the trims today were at 12.5 with a consistent stft of -3.6

and cruising was at about 8 with stfts jumping around, and it maintained the 8 even at higher rpms at a higher load with boost...

although i remember even stock, my ltfts were from 4.8 to 10,

maybe it just needs a few more days to settle

ill try to scan it and do a few pulls to see what my afr is, provided i can view a pid for it

[wankular]

If you've recently reconnected the battery the STFT's will be all over the place for the first 50 or so miles while it's learning. At certain intervals those values will be saved into LTFT's. Not sure what those intervals are.

[rtabagaboy]

Your values are normal for an SRI. I think mine where about 10-13 from idle thru part throttle (Read MAP/MAF voltage) that is what the LTFTs are for. They are there to calibrate the incoming air to correctly adjust AFRs.

However during WoT I "believe"(someone correct me) that the calibration (LTFTs STFTs) are ignored and just a (MAF/Fueling)table is used. So if your LTFTs(read calibrations) are not 0 then the WoT will be running lean/rich from the nominal design... If you LTFTs are positive your MAF +10 you sensor is low and need to be increased to account for the correct amount of air... so during WoT you might be running a little lean...

At least this is what I think happens... I have been wrong before... correct me ?

[nick779]

Originally Posted by wankular If you've recently reconnected the battery the STFT's will be all over the place for the first 50 or so miles while it's learning. At certain intervals those values will be saved into LTFT's. Not sure what those intervals are.

its been 3 key cycles and about 68 miles

Originally Posted by rtabagaboy Your values are normal for an SRI. I think mine where about 10-13 from idle thru part throttle (Read MAP/MAF voltage) that is what the LTFTs are for. They are there to calibrate the incoming air to correctly adjust AFRs. However during WoT I "believe"(someone correct me) that the calibration (LTFTs STFTs) are ignored and just a (MAF/Fueling)table is used. So if your LTFTs(read calibrations) are not 0 then the WoT will be running lean/rich from the nominal design... If you LTFTs are positive your MAF +10 you sensor is low and need to be increased to account for the correct amount of air... so during WoT you might be running a little lean... At least this is what I think happens... I have been wrong before... correct me ?

from what ive read, your right, i just wanna know HOW lean lol, if im below a 11.3 A/Fr, i dont care, i just dont wanna be running too lean at WOT