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 Old 04-28-2014, 08:13 PM   #1
 
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Default act 6 puck clutch review

So during my bt build I found out I needed a new clutch. As we all know the factory clutch is stupid expensive. Most times you have to get a new fly wheel cause most places do not have the means to resurface the dual mass flywheel. So a new one cost around $1000 just for the fly wheel.

So I went with the act 6 puck sprung with the pro light fly wheel. First thing is do not attempt to install this with out being very mechanically inclined or have a group of friends that do know what they are doing.

First impressions is the clamping power of this clutch is great and can handle most abuse that you throw at it. Also if you flat foot shift this thing handles that great with no issues.

Now as far as noise goes there is added noise.You especially hear it if you have a transmount. I am running a jbr 70 duro trans mount so if you have anything harder then that you for sure hear it.

If you have any more questions about this clutch or is interested in purchasing this clutch or act clutch please hit me up so I can get you the best price and availability.


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 Old 05-01-2014, 03:06 PM   #2
 
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@motherfnmonsta

iM curious about the pedal feeling/resistance? Before i read this i ordered a kit locally with a streetlite fw at 22lbs with the same disc and PP as yours.

Is it much harder to push ? Did you had to do anything to the slave cylinder or pedal linkage ?
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 Old 05-01-2014, 03:13 PM   #3
 
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Mine is slipping after 15k miles, be prepared to swap clutches on a yearly basis
and, I am not the only one to complain about pre-mature wear on the ACT 6puck.
I loved it while It worked, but a clutch job is not for the faint of heart, and you sure don't want to be doing it every 15k...my 2 cents.
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 Old 05-01-2014, 03:31 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 06speedemon View Post
Mine is slipping after 15k miles, be prepared to swap clutches on a yearly basis
and, I am not the only one to complain about pre-mature wear on the ACT 6puck.
I loved it while It worked, but a clutch job is not for the faint of heart, and you sure don't want to be doing it every 15k...my 2 cents.
I just have to say, you may be doing something wrong.

I put 40k miles on my ACT 6 puck, all of that big turbo (read >400whp). I got a new disc for $160 or so from ACT after my recent motor build since 40k was down to the buttons on the disc. But the disc can be re-padded.

This clutch should not be slipped. It's not a clutch that likes being slipped, or it will wear fast. It's not meant to be a longevity clutch.....but when you find a clutch that can handle the >500wtq I'm throwing at it......that should be assumed.

That all said, I've been rocking the prolite flywheel and ACT 6 puck combo for more than 2 years now. IF I didn't get this kit again it'd more or less be due to retarded power goals years down the road; this setup is perfect.
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 Old 05-01-2014, 03:24 PM   #5
 
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which disc did you used ?
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 Old 05-01-2014, 03:42 PM   #6
 
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I love this clutch. Works great. Never had an issue with slipping. Little tricky to get used to. I recently replaced the disc and pressure plate. The last disc lasted 32k before it needed to be replaced the buttons were starting to dig into the fly wheel. It probably would have made it longer miles if I did not change jobs and have to sit in traffic constantly.

Great clutch for the money. If you want some more longevity go for the full disc. There are guys running the full disc with 500hp with no slipping/issues.
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 Old 05-01-2014, 05:28 PM   #7
 
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you mean the black organic one rated at 415 lbs of torque that handle 500 ?
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
you mean the black organic one rated at 415 lbs of torque that handle 500 ?

Notice I said 500hp....
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 Old 05-01-2014, 09:32 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by taf0422 View Post
Notice I said 500hp....
Yeah but for 500hp on the dizi you usually got an higher torque than hp because max power is below 5225rpm so im assuming 500crank hp would be, at least, more than 415lbs of torque at the crank...?
but btw my oem clutch wasnt slipping probably close to 400lbs at 73 000miles (just made 15 000 being bt ) so maybe clutch rating is an average rating with margin...?
I change it because of fw
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 Old 05-01-2014, 09:47 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
Yeah but for 500hp on the dizi you usually got an higher torque than hp because max power is below 5225rpm so im assuming 500crank hp would be, at least, more than 415lbs of torque at the crank...?
but btw my oem clutch wasnt slipping probably close to 400lbs at 73 000miles (just made 15 000 being bt ) so maybe clutch rating is an average rating with margin...?
I change it because of fw
When you are BT you are not going to have higher tq levels than hp numbers.
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 Old 05-01-2014, 09:56 PM   #11
 
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Maybe my gt2871 isnt large enough to feel it like a 500hp bt or maybe its my tune that choke it but mine still feel floatingup top
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 Old 05-02-2014, 07:17 AM   #12
 
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as far as pedal feel goes it is noticeably harder then stock. But over time I have gotten use to it. The hardest part about getting use to this clutch is at stop lights just trying to mach the revs right off the bat with out slipping the clutch. If I get 30-40 out of this clutch that will be fine with me.

If I where to do this again I would probably go with the street disk, just for the ease of having a easier daily driver transmission.

But either way this clutch has been great it has handle all the abuse I have put to it, and it has handle the gt2871 r turbo great with my e85 freek tune. Next part will be adding water meth to the part and we will see how it does then.
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 Old 05-13-2014, 10:27 AM   #13
 
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first drive after install...damm the pedal is heavy now but i was driving a 3 GS dayly for few weeks durint the process of rebuilding my tranny so i may be confused by the 2.0l clutch feeling at this point.
The grip is just ..wow! my oem clutch wasn't feeling as it was slipping but now i know it was slipping because the tire want to spin way much more than before in the 3 first gear!!!
I kept the 20lbs FW so staring in traffic isn't that bad, the engine doesn't want to stall more than before. I also have higher iddle speed for turbo seal issue so it may help too...

But this morning at the second ride, the clutch cylinder just went out! leaving me with clutch engaged permanently to reach my job

Is there any upgraded cylinder availaible to take the abuse of the ACT HD PP pressure ? I will do the pedal mount improvement also.
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1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
first drive after install...damm the pedal is heavy now but i was driving a 3 GS dayly for few weeks durint the process of rebuilding my tranny so i may be confused by the 2.0l clutch feeling at this point.
The grip is just ..wow! my oem clutch wasn't feeling as it was slipping but now i know it was slipping because the tire want to spin way much more than before in the 3 first gear!!!
I kept the 20lbs FW so staring in traffic isn't that bad, the engine doesn't want to stall more than before. I also have higher iddle speed for turbo seal issue so it may help too...

But this morning at the second ride, the clutch cylinder just went out! leaving me with clutch engaged permanently to reach my job

Is there any upgraded cylinder availaible to take the abuse of the ACT HD PP pressure ? I will do the pedal mount improvement also.

As far as I know there is not an upgraded slave available. There is a design change with internal parts from mazda. Mine went out finally a fews ago. Just replaced it. Last 115k and 32k of that with the sixpuck
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GTX3076r --- 479/412
S4-460/400
Highest HP BNR S3
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 Old 05-14-2014, 06:50 PM   #15
 
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as far as I know there is no upgraded slaves either, but so far the OE one is holding up.
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 Old 05-16-2014, 06:31 AM   #16
 
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replaced it with new part # but i think there was a problem with my old one,clutch pedal feel a little bit better now???
I opened the old one to find a broken seal that was dry and worn so it isn't looking much to be because of the new clutch kit.
Knowing that, i would recommend to put a new slave cyl. with a new clutch kit if it is 80 000miles old...
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 Old 05-16-2014, 06:29 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
replaced it with new part # but i think there was a problem with my old one,clutch pedal feel a little bit better now???
I opened the old one to find a broken seal that was dry and worn so it isn't looking much to be because of the new clutch kit.
Knowing that, i would recommend to put a new slave cyl. with a new clutch kit if it is 80 000miles old...
That I would agree with you on to. 80,000 miles of use is a lot of work on a slave cylinder

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