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| Revolution Performance Motorsports Revolution Performance Manufacturing (RPM) was started by three Mazda 6 enthusiasts in early 2004 under a simple premise: to develop and manufacture new products for the Mazda 6 at an affordable price. We began to realize our purpose with the short throw shifter and gas hood lifter kits for that vehicle. Since then, we have added many new aftermarket products from well-known manufacturers and continue to expand to offer products for other vehicles with the goal of having the best prices and customer service on the 'net. |
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![]() | | #921 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Crarrs; You do not have to remove the strut to adjust the camber you simply have to loosen the three strut mount bolts and slide the strut either positive or negative and retighten. They just made the new base for the camber plates on monday of this week. The MS3 has a slightly different inner fender wheal than the fender that they did the mock up on so that is the reason for the redesigned. |
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![]() | | #923 | ![]() |
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__________________ 2016 MX-5 Club 2012 MS3 -- RIP in peace |
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![]() | | #924 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score wow, $400? I was expecting 100 bucks less. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You can adjust the camber, at least on the pu, by pushing or pulling the top of the strut by 1.5* to -1.5*. I'm running no camber plates and made a -1* alignment adjustment after I installed my coilovers. Didn't need to pay 399 for it either. |
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![]() | | #926 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score They fall in the same price range as the rest of their plates. I took a crowbar to the top of my struts to utilize the most amount of slack in those holes. I still want more camber for racing. At stock height I MIGHT be at -1.5*. When I had my swift springs installed I was at -1.9* using the same method. Remember that when you lower the car you're going to get more negative camber. So if you were at stock height before that probably aided in you getting more. |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to daafisch For This Useful Post: | Crarrs (10-15-2014), Mattyhawk1 (10-15-2014) |
![]() | | #927 | ![]() |
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![]() | | #928 | ![]() |
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![]() | | #929 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There are a lot of places you can get springs from for cheaper than GC. Pitstop USA has a good selection of springs and I'm sure other places do as well. |
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![]() | | #930 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @[R]usty; You pulled the struts off the car to do the swap right? I thought maybe in my head since the springs aren't compressed with the car on a jack that you might be able to get the tophat off while the struts are still on the car. Sounds like a recipe for disaster though.
__________________ 2012 Velocity Red Mica Fast: COBB AP | Autotechs | JBR 3'' WP | CS DP | CS ABE | MDM RMM | JBR RSB | NGK Plugs | JBR SSP | ETS TMIC Rice: Aeroforce Interceptor | AEM M 35psi | Konig Milligrams 18x8.5 + 35 | Z1 Star Specs | JBR Mudflaps ![]() |
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![]() | | #931 | ![]() |
| Raider's Ohio Bottom Bitch ![]() Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Cincinnati, OH
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Is anyone getting a crazy amount of clunk/pop noises with this setup? At slow speeds while going over bumpy roads, or turning, or while braking to a stop I am getting a terrible amount of noises that one would normally associate with a bad strut mount/bearing, coming from the front passenger side of the car. I've pulled, and prodded on every thing that I can, and had my mechanic do the same thing and we can not find anything out of the ordinary. Anyone else experiencing something similar? |
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![]() | | #932 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Have you tried tightening up your end links? Might help.
__________________ JBR 3.0" WP // CS Racepipe // UR CBE // CS TMIC // CS SS Plate + Bushings // Autotechs // NGK's // Damond Oil Restrictor Bolt // Forge v2 // JBR RMM 88 // JBR .250 RSB // CS Springs/Struts // SPC Camber Arms // |
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![]() | | #933 | ![]() |
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![]() | | #934 | ![]() |
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When I first tried to put this kit in I had an endlink I couldn't fully get out and was left loose, that clunked like no other at low speed, while turning, and over bumpy roads. Once it was replaced all noises went away.
__________________ 2012 MS3 SOLD, living in the world of Right Wheel Drive now Ol' BMO had: Autotech Internals, CS SRI+TIP, CS Short Shift Plate, CS BPV, CS TMIC, UR Catback, CP-e Stage 2 RMM, COBB AP v3.0, UR Test Pipe, JBR Weighted Shift Knob, DM OCC Kit, Koni Yellows+GC springs | |
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![]() | | #935 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @[R]usty; I spoke with Donovan at GC. He recommend the same set up you have. 440F 525R. Price he told me was 59$ per spring + shipping. Did you originally come from 525/600? Where in Los Angeles are you located?
__________________ 2010 MS3 5% REAR 30% FRONT DDM 5K HID RMM CS TIP/SRI Dizzy Tuned Autotech Internals Swift Springs JBR Rear Sway Stoptech 309's First Turbo Car and I love it! | |
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![]() | | #936 | ![]() |
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![]() | | #937 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Adog35; I'm in the San Fernando Valley. My order initially came with 525/600 but after all the reviews I traded my 600's for 440's and shifted the 525's to the rear. I have no complaints, ride is more comfortable then stock and cornering is absolutely flat. I love the combo! I was able to trade in my springs free of charge but only because I never installed. $59 + shipping is a good deal, you should definitely take it if you're unhappy with your current setup.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed3 w/tech Cobb AP V3 ║ JBR Tru 3" Wide Path ║ JBR Boost Tubes & BPV Hose ║ Cobb XLE BPV ║ CP-E TMIC ║ UR Racepipe ║ Magnaflow CBE ║ AutoTech Internals ║ GrimmSpeed EBCS ║ JBR RSB ║ SPC Camber Arms ║ KW V3 Coilovers ║ JBR IM+TB TIGs & TB Bypass ║ JBR SSP ║ E - Focus RMM ║ StopTech Slotted Rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff Pads ║ Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines |
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![]() | | #938 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I do realize I am probably the last person from the GB that installed the kit, so this info is a “day late / dollar short”, but I thought it would be useful to others if they decide to install the kit in the future. I had the Koni’s on Stock OEM springs for about 8K miles. They were fine, no issues. My goal with the GC was to keep it simple and go with the version that did not require cutting off the perches and the version that would work on stock shocks. Goal was to keep a happy wife and a happy life while modding for occasional autox. As all things go, life got away from me and four months later I now have installed the kit. But that is not the half of it, because against my better judgment, I tend to over think things and sweat the small stuff, therefore I ended up trying many different things to get to a final install. So, I ended up originally getting the following springs from GC. They were based on ordering the stock shock setup with DD. GC165.64.96 (6.5/2.5"/550 lbs) rear GC150.64.77 (6/2.5"/440 lbs) front As I posted previously, I moved the fronts to the rear and tested it as a preliminary data point, but the 550’s felt too hard for me. I sent all the springs back and get the following springs: GC180.64.75 (7/2.5"/430 lbs) front and rear Install was fairly normal. Follow instructions, get a finished product install. I ended up sending back the non-cut perch sleeves for the cut perch version seen here: Not much length on those sleeves. Also went with a helper spring setup in front, just couldn’t run these without the helpers, piece of mind issue. Unfortunately lost 3/4” of drop. I will probably order up the Eibach spring dividers, as the thickness is about 1/4” less than the Hyperco ones I used and they will fit down the OD of the GC sleeve, which the Hyperco's do not. Helper springs are Hyperco also. Yeah, I painted them, I don't know about you, but the yellow poking out of my wheel wells was bugging me. I didn't mean for the helpers to be blue, oh well, they won't be seen. The front springs are great, rears, not so much. The spring rates are actually perfect for me, haven’t driven it hard yet to see if it oversteers enough for my driving style though. Problem is the rears are maxed on drop due to the 7” springs, I should have gone 6” in back, I just underestimated going from a 6.5” spring to 7” spring would do and I was worried about doing a shorter softer spring. Live and learn. So I am left with a future problem of the rear not being low enough, not so much right now, but when I switch soon to 17x9’s with 40 size tires. I will probably need to get new rears in a month or so, but I’ll wait until I see how it handles before I decide. My feeling on the stiffness of the spring is good. The 440 / 550 spring was said by GC to be 20% stiffer than stock. I actually think they are right. Coming from stock spring on Koni’s, the 430 / 430 springs feel almost the same as my setup with OEM springs, only the big bumps are more jarring, but not excessive. I can see now how people (ie @[R]usty; et al) report the setup feels more comfortable than the stock spring setup even though it is stiffer. Here is before pic of front: Front at highest setting (offroad style): And as she stand now, lowest on rear, still could get 1/8-1/4" drop in front with collar adjustment: I do want to thank everyone in this group buy that came before me that posted their experience, because it helped me achieve my goals. I also want to thank Donovan at Ground Control, who kindly spent hours back and forth with me to figure out the right setup and Donny / RPM for their help making this GB happen. Overall, I think GC used this group buy to work the kinks out of their MS3 kit, which isn’t cool IMO, but they have been willing to exchange parts without delay for me, so that took the sting out of the issues I have had. Also, below is the most updated installation instructions from GC, 09/2014. Thought I would put it up for reference. Last edited by Mattyhawk1; 10-21-2014 at 07:52 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Mattyhawk1 For This Useful Post: | jack_hammer (10-23-2014) |
![]() | | #939 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I've been trying to follow this thread trying to decide whether or not to take the plunge later on. Good to know about the rates, but why the helper spring up front? Will the 6 inch rear spring be too jarring? What about the problems with the springs coming loose, has that been worked out yet? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ Current 2013 Ingot Silver Focus ST - ST3 Injen: 3in SES Exhaust TT Tips SOLD! 2008 Sunlight Silver MS3: BNR: S3 V2 Cobb: V3 AccessPort CNT: Catted Downpipe / Cat-Back Exhaust Damond Motorsports: RMM Eibach: Prokit HTP: 3" Intake System (One-piece) JBR: Rear Sway Bar Koni: Yellows MAC: 3-Port EBCS Morimoto: HID Kit / The Retrofit Source clear lens swap. NATOR FMIC: Cx Racing piping / Treadstone TR8 |
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![]() | | #940 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Mattyhawk1; Mind changing the color of the font to something other than black, kind of hard to read on a dark blue webpage. Also I'm really curious, why did you use a helper spring? If it's a preload issue I can assure you that the sway bars keep these springs loaded unless both tires leave the ground which is not likely.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed3 w/tech Cobb AP V3 ║ JBR Tru 3" Wide Path ║ JBR Boost Tubes & BPV Hose ║ Cobb XLE BPV ║ CP-E TMIC ║ UR Racepipe ║ Magnaflow CBE ║ AutoTech Internals ║ GrimmSpeed EBCS ║ JBR RSB ║ SPC Camber Arms ║ KW V3 Coilovers ║ JBR IM+TB TIGs & TB Bypass ║ JBR SSP ║ E - Focus RMM ║ StopTech Slotted Rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff Pads ║ Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines |
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![]() | | #941 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score lots of good info on here for the spring rate i plan on getting a gc setup in the near future.
__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]corksport catback, Cpe catted Downpipe, versa tuning custom tune, jbr rear swaybar, jbr 3 inch intake, corksport internals jbr suspension, awr front endlinks |
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![]() | | #942 | ![]() |
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Yes, sorry about that, I view the website in the light background option, so I didn't catch that it wasn't showing right.
I mentioned the fact that it was piece of mind. I tend to drive like a madman, and speed bumps are all around. I didn't like the idea of potentially unseating the spring, as the shock stroke has substantially more travel than is available in the spring. It's not the offset bumps or cornering I'm concerned about, it is running over things like speed bumps that can unseat the spring. Not to mention, other coilover kits come with helpers, so at least I'm not crazy, just might not be what others will choose to do.
I don't believe so, based solely on length alone. The rear springs coming out is considered fixed with the spring cups that now come with the kits. | ||||
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![]() | | #943 | ![]() |
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I'm like you and I think I like that idea of the helper spring personally. Thanks for the answer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ Current 2013 Ingot Silver Focus ST - ST3 Injen: 3in SES Exhaust TT Tips SOLD! 2008 Sunlight Silver MS3: BNR: S3 V2 Cobb: V3 AccessPort CNT: Catted Downpipe / Cat-Back Exhaust Damond Motorsports: RMM Eibach: Prokit HTP: 3" Intake System (One-piece) JBR: Rear Sway Bar Koni: Yellows MAC: 3-Port EBCS Morimoto: HID Kit / The Retrofit Source clear lens swap. NATOR FMIC: Cx Racing piping / Treadstone TR8 | |
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![]() | | #944 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Mattyhawk1; Does the car feel more settled when entering driveways with the 7" spring + the helper? (Extra travel) I currently have 525/600 set up 6" like many others and way planning on doing a swap. 525R/440F but after reading your post I might have having second thoughts. I know @[R]usty; did the 525R/440F swap and said it rides great, but everyones opinion is well, their opinion. I wish GC did a better job of working out the kinks prior to shipping! It would be cool if we could all set up a drive one weekend and compare the set ups. (I'm in Woodland Hills, CA)
__________________ 2010 MS3 5% REAR 30% FRONT DDM 5K HID RMM CS TIP/SRI Dizzy Tuned Autotech Internals Swift Springs JBR Rear Sway Stoptech 309's First Turbo Car and I love it! |
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![]() | | #945 | ![]() |
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Concerning the helper, I cannot compare with or without, as I only ran the fronts with helper. I will say that if you end up doing it, be prepared to spend $100 for the front end. My experience is you want to use the Eibach dividers, which is cheapest at GC at $25 a piece with $10 shipping. The helper spring was expensive at GC, so I went over to paragon-products.com for helper springs from Hyperco, $22 bucks a spring with $10 priority shipping. Once you get the stuff, flip the helper to the bottom (opposite from my assembly picture) so the divider will slide on the GC adjustment sleeve. Actually, I would consider the way Rusty did the flip as a great affordable option. I would think it is a better performance option but I will probably still get as replacement for the rear the GC150.64.77 (6/2.5"/440 lbs). I run 0* camber, 0* toe and no SWAS, which made my rear very oversteer happy on autox courses with stock springs and Koni's. Since my setup is similar to stock values as a percentage front to rear, I expect the new GC setup to be similar. If I need more oversteer, I'm only on the middle setting with the JBR RSB. I won't be able to get out to Camarillo until December, so I won't be able to test until then. Meetup? Absolutely, but not for a couple weeks. I am gone on travel for work next week and I still need to finish my alignment this week. Speaking of, I'm going to have a pair of slightly used GC180.64.75 (7/2.5"/430 lbs) laying around. Last edited by Mattyhawk1; 10-22-2014 at 01:00 PM. | |
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![]() | | #946 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just my personal opinion, but since switching to these coils I've enjoyed the car more with no bar on it at all. If I had the time and money to set it up with a bunch of camber I'm sure I'd appreciate the large bar more, but at the moment it (the JBR bar) just makes the transition to snap oversteer too easy.
__________________ 2012 Velocity Red Mica Fast: COBB AP | Autotechs | JBR 3'' WP | CS DP | CS ABE | MDM RMM | JBR RSB | NGK Plugs | JBR SSP | ETS TMIC Rice: Aeroforce Interceptor | AEM M 35psi | Konig Milligrams 18x8.5 + 35 | Z1 Star Specs | JBR Mudflaps ![]() |
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![]() | | #947 | ![]() |
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__________________ A democracy, in its purest form, is well represented by a group consisting of 2 wolves and 1 rabbit. Voting on what to have for lunch |
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![]() | | #949 | ![]() |
| Raider's Ohio Bottom Bitch ![]() Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Cincinnati, OH
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The 1/2 turn and 3/4 turn; are those from full soft or full stiff?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry settings are from full stiff not full soft Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by Jdraps13; 05-20-2015 at 01:08 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Full soft. I actually changed my settings since I wrote this. I'm running full soft in the front and 1/2 turn from full soft in the rear. Car is still stiff but loads more comfortable.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not trying to revive old threads but I'm not seeing a whole lot on the GC coils used with stock struts? Any input from anyone? This is my daily driver that will never see the track and want some height adjust-ability...end of the day I know I should just get them with Koni Yellows but I wanted to see if anyone has experience with stock struts.
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My previous post: GB: GROUND CONTROL + KONI SPORT Coilovers for Mazdaspeed 3! My kit came with the following: GC165.64.96 (6.5/2.5"/550 lbs) rear GC150.64.77 (6/2.5"/440 lbs) front I landed on these springs for the street GC180.64.75 (7/2.5"/430 lbs) front GC150.64.77 (6/2.5"/440 lbs) rear Running the konis I believe at these rates, the fronts do not have enough compression for even 430 lbs. I ran koni's with stock springs and ran autox on those, and they were good with stock rates. Rears have much better compression valving for the heavier rates. I tried 350 lbs 7" in front and it felt a lot better with the konis on the street. It was still harder than stock. I wanted stiffer in front for autox so I went back What I can tell you is don't go higher than 430 lbs if you are running stock shocks. I would suggest a better option is to stay in the 300-400 lbs range if using stock shocks. Keep in mind that while you can buy springs to try out different rates, buying them is the easy part. Selling them used or even new is hard. Selling with 50% ROI is doing good on new ones. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score A bit late for the group buy, I know. But I just ordered a set with 600F/700R spring rates. Yes I know I bumped an old thread, but zero fucks given. Fuck you.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Whew, hope the ride doesn't hurt too bad. With spring rates like that, you must be going to the track. I messed with more spring rates, Now run 7" 350 front and 7" 320 rear for daily, then drop in 7" 440 out back when I want it to handle. Had to for wife approval. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score After reading this thread I felt best with stiffer spring rates. I drive 90 miles each way to work, but I like a stiff ride. Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You've been warned! Since you're in Arkansas maybe this won't be much of an issue, but I'd highly recommend putting some sort of anti-seize on the bolts that go into the spring seats. Steel + aluminum = seized.
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Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score With that stiff of spring you might want to have those Koni's revalved. The 525 400 combo they sent me was very stiff even on the softest setting.
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Konisport + ground control setup | This thread | Refback | 04-25-2014 12:49 PM | |
| Konisport + ground control setup | This thread | Refback | 04-20-2014 03:35 AM | |
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