Dale Gribble's MS6

[Mazdazilla6]

Originally Posted by ItsNox thank you I was actually referring to the headlamp lenses themselves. Mine are just starting to haze at the bottom. I thought you guys were replacing them as well. Sent from my big ass Note 4 using shitty Tapatalk.

Try wet sanding them and resealing with a UV protectant. There's a how to floating around.

[dale_gribble]

I had that written up somewhere. Stick with TYC or Depot MZ6 lights for good quality lenses at a good price.

[Marcus]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Understand Eric. Again, my original thought was cool air would work it's way up to the top section of the ic as the ic is angled away from the crashbar. In retrospect this is not so. Another poorly conceived ms6 fmic. Eric, give me some pointers on cutting crash bar.

What are the chances you can dremel out the empy fog light space and or even cut to angle air into the engine bay via that. Just some brownie logic for weekend lulz.

[aviator79]

I got the TRS setup with the Morimoto bi-xenon mini H1 6.0 projectors and H1 bulbs. Stock ballasts for low beams with the Morimoto 4500k bulbs. Still running stock hi-beam bulbs for now. Overall, I am pretty satisfied with the setup so far.

If I want to just do projector retro and not utilize bi-xenon as in lows stay on just like stock I just buy $150 kit?

[murph3699]

Originally Posted by aviator79 If I want to just do projector retro and not utilize bi-xenon as in lows stay on just like stock I just buy $150 kit?

Yes but you need the D2S to H1 adapter....and the bulbs. More like $190

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by murph3699 Yes but you need the D2S to H1 adapter....and the bulbs. More like $190

Groan, I forgot to place my order yesterday when they had 15% off sale. I am just doing for fun in another MS6 I have laying around.

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble I had that written up somewhere. Stick with TYC or Depot MZ6 lights for good quality lenses at a good price.

Dale

Did you get my PM?? I had a few questions regarding the TRS kit.

[aviator79]

Anyone interested in getting a retrofit from TRS some discounts. If anyone in CT/MA or near me wants to place order together we could get 25% off and get complete kit and harness for $142.50 plus shipping ($13).

Even if we split cost of shipping out the 2nd unit to other person (~$5 each) it would be a good deal at ~$155 each.

Sorry for thread crapping Dale. I was not sure where to post this and have people see it as our hot deals section does not get any traffic.

[dale_gribble]

Thread crap away. I still love my trs retros.

[dale_gribble]

Got a few nits fixed this weekend.

Grinded wmi nozzle bung down a bit so the nozzle sits flush with the ID of the cold pipe. It was recessed in the bung about 3-4mm before.

Changed thermostat because old one was opening too quickly.

Changed out 4mm vacuum hose with 2mm vacuum hose for CMGS method controller boost signal line to see if boost readings don't jump around as much.

[dale_gribble]

Got a few pics showing off the new limited edition CA vintage black/yellow plates. Kind of looks cool I think.

[ButtholeRedMS3]

We get it, your car is prettier than ours...









Diggin the plates

[MS3Shadow]

Look very clean.

sent from my Nexus 6P

[voodoo2crue]

Beautiful car man.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 Try wet sanding them and resealing with a UV protectant. There's a how to floating around.

Guess what we did today!

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Got a few pics showing off the new limited edition CA vintage black/yellow plates. Kind of looks cool I think. [/IMG]

The black rear plate looks freaking TITS. The front one looks green?

I had a Nator Meat today and after we wet sanded and polished the headlights I got to use a foam blaster! When I was setting up for the pic I thought about this thread and how ugly your car is. Titanium Gray will never look as sexy as that white.

[dale_gribble]

Wow that looks killer!gj!

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Wow that looks killer!gj!

Thank buddy. Aspiring to your level of cleanliness. Why did you drill out the holes in your fog light housing things, btw? Thinking about doing it tmrw.

They turned out much better than I expected despite my hesitations. I intend on replacing the lenses with some MZ6's as you suggested in the next 12 months. But not too bad for 10 year old headlights.

[dale_gribble]

Those lenses do look good. Mine were dirty on the inside so even all cleaned up they didn't look that good.

I drilled the fog grille when I had cai but no reason for it. Was dumb. I've learned a lot since then.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Those lenses do look good. Mine were dirty on the inside so even all cleaned up they didn't look that good. I drilled the fog grille when I had cai but no reason for it. Was dumb. I've learned a lot since then.

Nice. Not drilling then. Mine are a little dirty on the inside as well you just can't see it. Sorry if I crapped up your thread man, just thought about it

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

[dale_gribble]

After putting the CP-E FMIC on and getting pretty shitty results from a BAT improvement perspective, I updated the intercooler to a real intercooler, a treadstone TRV1859. I had a welder weld the same mounting locations on the treadstone as were on the CP-E FMIC and it plopped right on. Performance increased significantly as a result, I think I saw a 20whp/20wtq improvement on account of lower BATs and being able to push timing up.



I am now moving onto my next optimization for the CP-E kit. I hate the routing of the CP-E cold side. It's ridiculous. It's long, and it basically contacts the hot side where the bpv is. You can see the cold side here.



The CX Racing and similar FMIC kits have a much smarter routing idea on the cold side. Instead of mirroring the hot side and coming around and up, they just go between the frame and radiator support for almost a straight shot into the throttle body, like this.



Examples from @TiGraySpeed6;





I am also going to open up the cold side a little per what I have read on a few sites (and also what Corksport did on their latest kit). Instead of the 2.25" pipe, I am going to step up to 2.5" and then 3" right before throttle body. Also, I am going to add the DM throttle body spacer and put 2 x D03s behind the throttle body spraying into the plenum instead of a big D07 in front of the throttle body spraying into the 2.25" pipe.

So, that's the next project.

[dale_gribble]

Here's my parts list; you can see how I use the pipe/couplers to step up to 3" before throttle body.

(in order from cold site outlet to throttle body)

CX Racing 2.25" 75 Degree Mandrel Bent Polished Aluminum Pipe, 2.0mm Thick Tube, 18" Length
Silicone Intakes Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 2.5" to 2.25" - Black
CX Racing 2.5" Straight Aluminum Pipe, Mandrel Bent Polished, 2.0mm Thick Tube, 18" Length
Silicone Intakes Silicone Reducer, 45° bend - 3.0" to 2.5" - Black
CX Racing 3" O.D. BOV FLANGE PIPE, Polished Aluminum, 9" long, for HKS SSQV/SQV Blow Off Valves
Silicone Intakes Silicone Reducer, 3.0" to 2.75" - Black

For the meth setup, I really like the Devil's Own low profile 90s, I'll tee into two of those with an 1/8NPT nos block Y I have lying around, each feeding a D03. It looks like with the DM spacer, I can get both nozzles on the top.



and dumping into the Damond Motorsports spacer. I picked this over the JBR, because I'll install both nozzles on the same side.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Wow-
Seriously nice upgrade on the intercooler core!!

Looking forward to what you think once you get the new pipe layout in place- should make a decent improvement to your throttle feel and reduce some lag time.

[dale_gribble]

This is a little mod I did to get more air to radiator since there isn't a top mount anymore. First, hack the air guide behind the grille as shown. I did this with the bumper OFF the car and with the air guide OFF the bumper. I wouldn't do this on the car I don't think.



I mocked up an air diverter from cardboard (my favorite prototyping tool), and then cut out from 1/8" plastic using the cardboard template. I double sided taped it to the grille with that really good 3m automotive tape.



reattach grille with diverter and voila. I know it's doing some good, because when the fans are on, I can put my hand in front of the grille there and fill the air sucking past my hand.

[Mazdazilla6]

Hey Dale if you get the chance do you think you could measure the distance between the bottom of the crashbar (where it wasn't cut) to the bottom plate your intercooler core is on?

[dale_gribble]

Sure, no prob. I'll have bumper off this weekend.

[WAMBUSHHHH!]

car looks good...you're still a huge ricer.

[dale_gribble]

Ricer is as ricer does.

[WAMBUSHHHH!]

Trust me, I know all about that! I eat, sleep, breathe rice.

But seriously, that new core looks massive. Sounds like the new core performed hand over fist better (not surprised given the size of that thing). Makes my cobb core look puny. I need more rice. I will not be outdone!

[dale_gribble]

New coldside is in (not cut to size yet). You can see size progression from 2.25" to 2.5" to 3" at BPV tube. Silicone intakes size change couplers are great, and the CX racing pipe is nice too. You can see how much cleaner the routing is this way compared to the CP-E cold side in the pic above.



Damond throttle adapter and Devil's own nozzle/holders didn't make it in tho, so I guess next weekend for this project.

[dale_gribble]

Cold side routing ended up being a PITA. Got it done and outcome is good but it is tight everywhere. Bpv hose is right next to coolant hose, coolant hose is close to 3" housing, the cold side barely squeezes by the hot side and radiator support. Whew...





So, next is the Damond wmi nozzle plate.

I also pulled throttle body and was surprised to find the IM it coated in a light mixture of oil and water/meth mixture. I'm running occ that is working well and not burning a lick of oil, so it has to be egr. I put the JBR EGR block kit on.

[dale_gribble]

Here's an updated engine bay. Pretty boring for 400+bhp. Not very exciting for everything that's there.

[robbspeed]

Looks fantastic.

[ItsNox]

You need turbo Steve's valve cover and fuel pump covers. Considered?

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

[dale_gribble]

Originally Posted by ItsNox You need turbo Steve's valve cover and fuel pump covers. Considered? Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Ya, when he's in production I think I will actually.

On a side note, blew off a coupler on the hot side behind the bumper this AM FML. Monday FTW.

[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble On a side note, blew off a coupler on the hot side behind the bumper this AM FML. Monday FTW.

Dale i was going to ask you if you drive the car exept to get it in and out of the garage to shine it
It really looks clean!

btw it suck when this happend...you forgot 1 clip ?

[dale_gribble]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl Dale i was going to ask you if you drive the car exept to get it in and out of the garage to shine it It really looks clean! btw it suck when this happend...you forgot 1 clip ?

Car gets dirty and beat up, don't worry! I used the silicone couplers between two silicone hoses on the hot side, and I just rushed putting it back together. I took the piping apart last night and put it back together; actually the new cold side came together better when I massaged the install a little bit, so time well spent.

I relocated the meth nozzle from the cold pipe pre TB to the Damond throttle plate post TB. It's not a slide to Damond, because they are all pretty much the same, but I don't see why they even bother tapping multiple holes on multiple sides. There's no clearance on the top due to the IM and there's no clearance on the front because of the TB's drive by wire motor assembly. So, hint, you're only going to get a nozzle on the bottom with these adapter plates.



I did a few runs on the exact same map as before, and now I have KR from 5k-6.5k ranging from 1.5-2.4 on back to back runs. I need to do more homework, but it looks like the engine doesn't like the nozzle post TB; maybe it isn't mixing in with the air as well or distributing to all of the cylinders evenly. BATs are lower now but there is now KR when the runs were consistently clean.

[dale_gribble]

After reading about it, I have a feeling that the first runner or two probably aren't getting an even distribution of WMI + air mixture.

[Jeff23spl]

maybe and lower BAT affect the timing curve a bit...is it enough alone for a 2deg of kr, i don't know...

You may compare before and after timing...

[dale_gribble]

Timing curve is the same. Could still be mechanical, I have a little more homework to do. I'll dial tune back and see if kr persists.

[Jeff23spl]

I had more in mind: if you got better BAT with this setup, the table ''IGN bat VS ECT A & B'' can affect your final timing a little bit...