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![]() Join Date: May 2013 Location: Ponce, Puerto Rico
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Just trying to figure out here, what would be best for me although i don't have plans at the moment on upgrading turbo but later on yes, how later that i don't know, probably a while. I was thinking on the ultimate racing v3 downpipe but seems to me that for the k04 its bell mouth its to wide(was considered for upgraded turbos) being best typical bellmouth size for stock k04. Can someone share some light here. Thanks in advance
__________________ Forge BPV V2//COBB AP V3// COBB DP //ETS TMIC//AUTOTECH HPFP//JBR SRI//JBR TIP//JBR COOLANT BYPASS KIT//JBR DISI HOSES//JBR BYPASS HOSE//JBR THROTTLE BODY THERMAL GASKETS//JBR SHIFTER BUSHINGS// //RACING BEAT CBE//DAMOND MOTORSPORTS OCC//COBB RMM//CS LED KIT//CS LED FOGS//CBI OSRAM HID BULBS//CONTI EXTREME CONTACT 235/40 R18//RACESENG SHIFT KNOB//FREEKTUNED ON 93 PUMP GAS |
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| The Following User Says NO Thank You to eliwwjd For This Un-useful Post: | tegxsi (06-15-2017) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score To my recollection the only downpipe that won't work with big turbos (assuming you're going to go with BNR or ATP which have mazda flanges on hot side) is the Corksport, due to the metal piece sticking out to separate turbine and wastegate which will contact the larger wastegate flapper on the bigger turbos. I currently have an UR V3 downpipe on my K04 and have no complaints. That said, a Cobb will work just as well for anything the V3 will. Any downpipe with a bellmouth design should work. Catless won't make much of a difference on K04, but will help free up a bit more power on big turbo.
__________________ 2012 Velocity Red Mica MS3 Tech For Powah: JBR Tru 3.5" WP, CP-E TMIC, UR V3 Catless DP/Reso. TP, CS Resonated CBE, CS HPFP Internals, Cobb AP, DM PMM, DM TMM, CS Stg 2 RMM, CS Shifter Bushings, CS Dual VTA BPV, South Bend Stage 3 Endurance clutch, Damond Motorsports SSP, CS 3.5bar MAP, Stratified S-OTS+ Stg 3 E85 tune for summer, Pump S-OTS+ Stage 3 for winter, for now Handling: JBR .250 RSB w/ billet brackets. So I can see/be seen better: DDM LED for Nagare Accent lights, DDM Switchbacks Front turn signals, Osram CBI's, ADVmonster LED Fogs To-do List: BNR S4, maybe S5...bottom end build, probably should do brakes/suspension at some point. Shooting for a 450-500whp daily driver. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks guy! I know that any downpipe with a bellmouth design should work on a k04, is just that i was debating whether to go now with a dp that would also work with an aftermarket turbo besides k04 or just go with cobb dp and then if i upgrade the turbo than i would have to get a new dp. What Im also thinking is, keep my corksport racepipe and if the time comes to upgrade then all i have to do is purchase an ultinate racing v3 short dp to couple with my corksport racepipe. Anyhow thanks for the help.
__________________ Forge BPV V2//COBB AP V3// COBB DP //ETS TMIC//AUTOTECH HPFP//JBR SRI//JBR TIP//JBR COOLANT BYPASS KIT//JBR DISI HOSES//JBR BYPASS HOSE//JBR THROTTLE BODY THERMAL GASKETS//JBR SHIFTER BUSHINGS// //RACING BEAT CBE//DAMOND MOTORSPORTS OCC//COBB RMM//CS LED KIT//CS LED FOGS//CBI OSRAM HID BULBS//CONTI EXTREME CONTACT 235/40 R18//RACESENG SHIFT KNOB//FREEKTUNED ON 93 PUMP GAS |
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![]() Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Washington
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you've got the race pipe already, I don't see much reason to buy the Cobb. I'd just get the Ultimate Racing V3 and call it a day. The K04 bellmouth flange is the same for stock turbo/BNR/ATP turbos, so any bellmouth downpipe (Cobb/Ultimate Racing V3/Depo/CP-E/CNT) should work with those. If you wanted to go the route of something that doesn't use a mazda flange like say an EFR 7163, then you'll need a new downpipe regardless. It really depends on what turbo you're considering down the road.
__________________ 2012 Velocity Red Mica MS3 Tech For Powah: JBR Tru 3.5" WP, CP-E TMIC, UR V3 Catless DP/Reso. TP, CS Resonated CBE, CS HPFP Internals, Cobb AP, DM PMM, DM TMM, CS Stg 2 RMM, CS Shifter Bushings, CS Dual VTA BPV, South Bend Stage 3 Endurance clutch, Damond Motorsports SSP, CS 3.5bar MAP, Stratified S-OTS+ Stg 3 E85 tune for summer, Pump S-OTS+ Stage 3 for winter, for now Handling: JBR .250 RSB w/ billet brackets. So I can see/be seen better: DDM LED for Nagare Accent lights, DDM Switchbacks Front turn signals, Osram CBI's, ADVmonster LED Fogs To-do List: BNR S4, maybe S5...bottom end build, probably should do brakes/suspension at some point. Shooting for a 450-500whp daily driver. |
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![]() Join Date: May 2013 Location: Ponce, Puerto Rico
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The reason why im considering cobb is because: 1) Was the dp recommended by Justin to be one of the top best flowing dp 2) I wanted something that wasn't to loud and I see UR seems to be kind of loud 3) I'll be going catted dp so that being said, cobb cat seems to pass emissions at least in Texas. Was told that the catalyst used in UR aren't so good 4) UR cost me $640.00 vs. Cobb long DP $742.00 Doesn't bigger turbo require wider bellmouth, reason for changing dp on the long run?
__________________ Forge BPV V2//COBB AP V3// COBB DP //ETS TMIC//AUTOTECH HPFP//JBR SRI//JBR TIP//JBR COOLANT BYPASS KIT//JBR DISI HOSES//JBR BYPASS HOSE//JBR THROTTLE BODY THERMAL GASKETS//JBR SHIFTER BUSHINGS// //RACING BEAT CBE//DAMOND MOTORSPORTS OCC//COBB RMM//CS LED KIT//CS LED FOGS//CBI OSRAM HID BULBS//CONTI EXTREME CONTACT 235/40 R18//RACESENG SHIFT KNOB//FREEKTUNED ON 93 PUMP GAS |
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