Blown Corksport Turbo

[Fstrnyou]

I've probably put 20k miles on my CST4. The first half of its life was at 18-22psi. The last half of its life has been 24-28psi...mostly 28, lol.

[tegxsi]

I put 15k so far and no issues. It lives at 20psi so nothing aggressive. The stock clutch can only handle so much...

It's a TD05. I'm guessing a standard TD05 rebuild kit would work. There are places you can send your turbo to have rebuilt. I rather have it professionally checked out and balanced but that's just me.

How much is CS charging for a CHRA?

[Ozynigma]

Looks like I might have just joined the blown CST4 club.

Done about 20,000 km in my CX7 tuned for max boost of 24psi.

Just moved it to my MPS3. Still on the running in oil. Now blowing clouds of smoke.

I will try and add video.

[Ozynigma]

OK here is video attached.

[thrice]

It's a TD05. I'm guessing a standard TD05 rebuild kit would work. There are places you can send your turbo to have rebuilt. I rather have it professionally checked out and balanced but that's just me. How much is CS charging for a CHRA?

So i just bought a used V1 Corksport turbo off a guy from Quebec on Kijiji and little did i know when i bought it, it had blown seals (he lied and said it was in perfect working order with no shaft play.)

I contacted Corksport about a rebuild kit. The following is my e-mail to them, and their response.

Information E-mail: xxxxxxxxxxx First name: Sean Last name: xxxxx Car Year/Model: 2011 Mazdaspeed3 Phone: xxxxxx Country: CA State/province: ON Message Subject: Corksport Turbo CHRA Rebuild Question Body: Hello, I bought a used Corksport Turbo and it happens to have blown oil seals. I'm just trying to get information about if a standard MHI TD05H 18G CHRA rebuild kit is able to be used, or are there over sized bearing components in your CHRA? Also, are there any known issues with my specific gen of turbo? P/N: GEN-6-777 MODEL: TD05H-18G-9cm2 S/N: 01-0097 Thank you in advance for any help!

Hey there, I wouldn’t be able to tell you if that would work or not. It is very very similar to the MHI TD05. We can sell you our CHRA for 599.99 plus shipping. That is also a V1 by looking at the serial number. Those have a bad hotside, the wastegate port wasn't big enough. You would need an entire new hotside from us as well, and those are 199.99 plus shipping regards, ZACH SPRAGUE SALES SPECIALIST (360) 260-2675 ext. 105 | zach@corksport.com 910 W 11th St Unit-B | Vancouver, WA USA 98660 CorkSport.com

This is an FYI for anyone with a smokey CS Turbo without warranty. I will be tearing mine down and measuring the thrust bearing, collar, and thrust spacer. From what i've read online an OEM MHI TD05H-18G uses a 14mm thrust spacer, but there are kits out there that use an upgraded 18mm spacer. I'll update whenever the tear down happens.

[eliwwjd]

Dam! I was considering on doing CS Turbo but with these reviews, I think ill stay with K04 and do meth with K04

[Fstrnyou]

K04-Meth seems to be fairly successful.
My "no experience with meth" opinion would be to start tapering in the meth around 3500-4000.
If it will be an on/off switch, maybe wait a little later.
Stock block of course.

[CesariniAP]

Sorry to hear about that @thrice. $800+ shipping + what you already paid for it seems ridiculous. You would think CorkSport would get V1 owners those hot sides for cost with it being a design flaw. But the community would benefit greatly if you found another common 18g CHRA that was compatible because I’m sure there’s thousands of CST4’s out there. Good luck to you sir! Looking forward to your findings

[Ozynigma]

So I haven't pulled my blown CS turbo out of the car yet. It will be done in the next two weeks. I have decided not to rebuild it and thrice reply above shows its probably not economical, at least not with genuine replacement parts.

I have bought a Mamba GTX2871R (Garrett) clone. No more journal bearings for me.

[eliwwjd]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma So I haven't pulled my blown CS turbo out of the car yet. It will be done in the next two weeks. I have decided not to rebuild it and thrice reply above shows its probably not economical, at least not with genuine replacement parts. I have bought a Mamba GTX2871R (Garrett) clone. No more journal bearings for me.

Hey man was your CS Turbo the new and latest version? Im about to do turbo upgrade and i was choosing between:
1) CS turbo
2) BNR S3
3) GTX2867
4) GTX2871R
and i was told that the CS Turbo was the fastest spooling turbo of all 4 so i was decided on it but now with all these bad experiences i'm kind of holding back on CS.

[thrice]

Originally Posted by CesariniAP Sorry to hear about that @thrice. $800+ shipping + what you already paid for it seems ridiculous. You would think CorkSport would get V1 owners those hot sides for cost with it being a design flaw. But the community would benefit greatly if you found another common 18g CHRA that was compatible because I’m sure there’s thousands of CST4’s out there. Good luck to you sir! Looking forward to your findings

To be completely fair, this is all my own doing and i knew there was always a risk of there being unseen issues with purchasing used parts, and i honestly don't hold Corksport accountable for my risks in this matter.

The Turbine housing i will be diagnosing and attempting to port the IWG path on my YouTube channel (shameless plug) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4i...dxJu9mCcPU_hzA as well as the turbo teardown and bearing measuring for other Mazdaspeed owners to see incase they too are wanting to take the risk of purchasing a used and potentially blown turbo.

The good news, both the Compressor and Turbine wheels look almost brand new, just with some oil on them. No bent blades, chips or cracks. Which should mean, as long as i mark the shaft tip, nut, and front face of the compressor wheel with "alignment marks" for when i reassemble the turbo, i (in theory) shouldn't need a re-balance.

All MHI turbos are triple balanced (Compressor wheel, Turbine wheel, then again once fully assembled) So as long as the wheels or shaft are not damaged in any way, their weights should not have changed or shifted. The bearings are made of softer material so that they wear out and not the turbine shaft, hence, a rebuild-able CHRA core.

[LenSpeed6]

I have 18k on my cts4 with zero issues, tuned to 24psi and sees it quite often.

[thrice]

Minor Update. Reached out to Corksport once more hoping for more information if possible. The following is my e-mail to them and their response.

From: Sean Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2019 2:39 PM To: CorkSport Sales Subject: RE: Corksport Turbo CHRA Rebuild Question Hey Zach, Is there anyone at Corksport in an engineering capacity that might be to find out the CHRA bearing specs for me? I went after a Corksport turbo for the ability to rebuild it by replacing the seals. I understand this isnt your (or Corksport's) problem, and you guys need to make a profit, but I'm trying not to spend another $600 US on a whole new CHRA when I just spent $900 CDN on the turbo itself. Please let me know if there might be anything you can find out for me, and I appreciate the help. -Sean

CorkSport Sales <sales@corksport.com> Thu 2019-06-20 1:01 PM Hey Sean, This is what I got back from them. "Have Sean get an MHI TD05/TD06 rebuild kit with the 360 degree performance thrust bearing. Be sure to tell him he needs to get the CHRA rebalanced after rebuilding it. Let me/Barett know if he has any other questions. -Daniel " Let me know if this works for you! regards, ZACH SPRAGUE SALES SPECIALIST (360) 260-2675 ext. 105 | zach@corksport.com 910 W 11th St Unit-B | Vancouver, WA USA 98660 CorkSport.com

Now, there are different rebuild kits for the TD05/TD05H/TD06 turbos as these CHRAs were used in a plethora of different vehicles from the factory, that use 2 different style wheels. Flatback, or Superback. The bearing kits are different depending on what style of wheel is used. Therefore, after i have my CST torn apart, only then will we know for sure what style kit is needed.

I want to give a large thank you to @Corksport for showing support for their products even though they don't have to divulge any information at all. They're real stand up people over there IMHO.

[Fstrnyou]

FWIW, I regularly push mine to 28psi.

Shit, nevermind. I already posted that.

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by eliwwjd Hey man was your CS Turbo the new and latest version? Im about to do turbo upgrade and i was choosing between: 1) CS turbo 2) BNR S3 3) GTX2867 4) GTX2871R and i was told that the CS Turbo was the fastest spooling turbo of all 4 so i was decided on it but now with all these bad experiences i'm kind of holding back on CS.

No I don't think so, its about 3 years old so I think a V1.

If you can afford it go the Garrett. I don't love my car that much so I went the Mamba clone.

In my personal opinion, based on general reading and understanding and not actual dyno graphs, I doubt anything is going to overall perform better than a GTX2867R if you want fast spool and boost to redline.

I was expecting 10's, maybe 100 thousand kilometres out of the CST4, so its pretty disappointing that it has failed at 20,000 kms.

[thrice]

For anyone that is still curious about the 1st generation Corksport Turbo (As well as the new CST4), I have a video of taking apart the used one I bought now live on my YouTube channel. https://youtu.be/2hJxsO9ZXFA

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma Looks like I might have just joined the blown CST4 club. Done about 20,000 km in my CX7 tuned for max boost of 24psi. Just moved it to my MPS3. Still on the running in oil. Now blowing clouds of smoke. I will try and add video.

So yep mine is definitely blown.

Finally got around to pulling it out. I have got the intake off and the shaft would only spin a ¼ turn each way by hand. I was able to work it through the resistance in the bearings, now it will spin whole revolutions but its grindy AF.

So another CS turbo failed at low (20,000km) mileage. I am not happy.

In fairness to Corksport I will double check that oil supply etc is all good when I put the replacement Mamba turbo in. It was a brand new flexible oil line and still on new running in oil when it failed though.

[Pu Manchu]

not sure if it applies for the cs turbo, but the bnr turbos suffered heavily from oil contamination (such as you'd see during engine break in) destroying the bearings.

[Fstrnyou]

I put 10k miles on my new engine with a CS turbo that probably already had about 10k+ miles on stock block. Turbo is still good.

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by Pu Manchu not sure if it applies for the cs turbo, but the bnr turbos suffered heavily from oil contamination (such as you'd see during engine break in) destroying the bearings.

Now you tell me.

That is a possible mechanism for my failure as it has got progressively worse making whirry noises until it stopped working and started smoking.

Not that I am sure what the remedy would have been, except changing oil and filter even earlier than I did.

[thrice]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma Now you tell me. That is a possible mechanism for my failure as it has got progressively worse making whirry noises until it stopped working and started smoking. Not that I am sure what the remedy would have been, except changing oil and filter even earlier than I did.

Hang on to your blown CST4. You can easily either rebuild it, or upgrade it to CST5 specs. I'll be covering that in a future separate youtube video, but both Mamba and Kinugawa make inexpensive TD05H upgrade wheels to turn this into a 20G.

Or, use a TD06SL2 turbine wheel/shaft with a modified GTX3071 superback compressor wheel to essentially turn your CST4 into a CST5. Machining will be required on the CHRA and you'll need to purchase an MHI 3" Anti-Surge GTX3071 TD05/TD06 compressor housing from Mamba. A whole new turbine housing would be required as well as the CST4 only uses a .64 A/R housing (9cm2).

From what research i've done, it seems Corksport uses Mamba wheels. My compressor wheel had a Mamba part number on it + an additional letter, probably signifying who the customer was.

[whatsabrooklyn]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma Now you tell me. That is a possible mechanism for my failure as it has got progressively worse making whirry noises until it stopped working and started smoking. Not that I am sure what the remedy would have been, except changing oil and filter even earlier than I did.

so about the oil contamination thing... was there something that could have been done to prevent it from breaking? (like an oil change 1k after install) or it happened just because?

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by thrice Or, use a TD06SL2 turbine wheel/shaft with a modified GTX3071 superback compressor wheel to essentially turn your CST4 into a CST5. Machining will be required on the CHRA and you'll need to purchase an MHI 3" Anti-Surge GTX3071 TD05/TD06 compressor housing from Mamba. A whole new turbine housing would be required as well as the CST4 only uses a .64 A/R housing (9cm2).

So just like my grandfathers axe hey?

Originally Posted by whatsabrooklyn so about the oil contamination thing... was there something that could have been done to prevent it from breaking? (like an oil change 1k after install) or it happened just because?

If you are asking me, I don't know. It wouldn't have even done 1,000km yet.

Also no filings on the sump plug or any obvious contamination in the oil. There might well be a different problem in my case like poor oil supply, maybe a fragment of metal caught in the oil supply restrictor hole.

[Kellerspeed3]

Originally Posted by whatsabrooklyn so about the oil contamination thing... was there something that could have been done to prevent it from breaking? (like an oil change 1k after install) or it happened just because?

Upgraded oil feed line with a filter will stop this, change the filter every other oil change.

[LenSpeed6]

I must have about 13k+ miles on my CST4 and have not noticed any major oil consumption with it or play, seems like I check it two or three times a year and it doesn't feel any different from new according to memory.

[thrice]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma So just like my grandfathers axe hey?

ye.....yes?

[whatsabrooklyn]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma So just like my grandfathers axe hey? If you are asking me, I don't know. It wouldn't have even done 1,000km yet. Also no filings on the sump plug or any obvious contamination in the oil. There might well be a different problem in my case like poor oil supply, maybe a fragment of metal caught in the oil supply restrictor hole.

thanks for the reply. i saw that @pu_manchu; said something about bnr suffering from this so i was curious about it.