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 Old 02-11-2016, 08:10 PM   #1
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Default Cpe intake manifold

I'm going to use this thread to post some info in a general area, so we aren't limited to other vendors chiming in.

Huge thanks to JP @EdgeAutosport.com; for getting me one of the first manis on the street.

One thing I love to do outside the daily grind is tinker with my own car and play with new products. So here is the new mani. Out of the box it really is a great looking piece. I love the design of the velocity stacks within the manifold, as well as the side entry throttle body and tapered design toward the 4th runner.



One thing I would probably do is smooth out the casting within the velocity stacks as they are a little rough. Probably doesn't affect flow a heck of a lot. But something I may do in the future.


There is a plate on the front of the manifold that encloses the untit. It Uses about 12 screws (can't remember off the top of my head). Install these screws with caution. It won't take much to cross thread them or even strip them by over tightening.

Once she is ready to go in. She literally falls right into place. (Cold pipe out of the way as some adjustments need to be made there). Hardest part about bolting the manifold up is the angled runners. Literally no room to get any tools on these Allen bolts. I ended up cutting some Allen sockets and using ball end Allen sockets or stubby Allen wrenches to get them all in place. Took a bit. But wasn't in much of a hurry.




Previously I had the JMF manifold dialed in and tuned at 630hp with 6th port and meth injection. So plan is to run the same setup to get some comparable Dyno pulls in. This should happen within the next couple weeks once I have a little more time to tinker with the car.

Then once Dyno tuned, I'll get some data and real world feel on the street. I'll try to share as much as possible here and if anyone has any questions. Feel free to chime in!





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 Old 02-11-2016, 08:21 PM   #2
 
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Sooooo, FS thread on JMF manifold??
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 Old 02-11-2016, 08:41 PM   #3
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Default Cpe intake manifold

Originally Posted by JakeMS3 View Post
Sooooo, FS thread on JMF manifold??

Possibly


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 Old 02-12-2016, 06:26 AM   #4
 
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Can't wait to see one of these under the hood of a 6...

Thanks for posting your findings Justin!
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 Old 02-12-2016, 06:31 AM   #5
 
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Extremely interested in the dyno results... I've been on the fence about purchasing this when I add meth this spring.

I held off on an IM because I was not a fan of the center inlet on the JMF. I was hoping someone would come out with this style IM, mainly because of how well the magnus IMs perform that are this style.
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 Old 02-12-2016, 06:46 AM   #6
 
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Thanks for doing CP-E's job, Justin. We all appreciate the time you're putting in on this.
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 Old 02-12-2016, 09:43 AM   #7
 
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Will this work with a TR8L and JBR FMIC Piping Kit?
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 Old 02-12-2016, 09:45 AM   #8
 
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No. You will need a custom manifold hand built by zeus
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 Old 02-13-2016, 12:14 PM   #9
 
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Looking forward to your results Justin. One things for sure it looks nice in the bay. Hoping it performs well

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 Old 02-13-2016, 12:36 PM   #10
 
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Know anything about this fuel rail?

Mazdaspeed3 2.3L Turbo HavocRail? PFI Mazdaspeed Port Fuel Injection Rail - cp-e?
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 Old 02-13-2016, 02:21 PM   #11
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Yessir. Got it coming this week. But I want to do a direct comparison to what I had with the JMF. Once I get that data together. I'll end up swapping over to PI


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 Old 02-13-2016, 03:09 PM   #12
 
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Looks pretty sweet! Hopefully gains are just as good
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 Old 02-13-2016, 03:20 PM   #13
 
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@Justin@Freektune;

Does the fuel rail come with all the hardware needed to tie. It into the factory fuel system or is it just the rail?
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 Old 02-13-2016, 03:42 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Polish_Eagle View Post
@Justin@Freektune;

Does the fuel rail come with all the hardware needed to tie. It into the factory fuel system or is it just the rail?
Based on the $240 price tag, guessing just the rail...
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 Old 02-13-2016, 04:16 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
Based on the $240 price tag, guessing just the rail...
To me that's insane for a hollow piece of aluminum. Damn!!
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 Old 02-22-2016, 07:29 PM   #16
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Decided to replace my clutch before the season started so that delayed Dyno testing a bit. But car is back together and been putting some miles on the street. Overall everything feels great and very responsive. Hit 20psi at 3800rpms and 35psi at 4300. So she wants to flow. Blew the tires right off at that boost so fun stopped there. But Dyno should be Wednesday if all goes well and work schedule stays on track.


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 Old 02-22-2016, 07:35 PM   #17
 
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Spools as fast as the k04 lol that is impressive. Now the question is do you build boost faster than the jmf now? What about peak numbers? G/s same, greater, less?
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 Old 02-23-2016, 05:37 AM   #18
 
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Did you change your intake as well, Justin?
I'm looking forward to the results!
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 Old 02-23-2016, 05:39 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by speedfreak44 View Post
Spools as fast as the k04 lol that is impressive. Now the question is do you build boost faster than the jmf now? What about peak numbers? G/s same, greater, less?
I haven't even done a full pull with it yet. That will all be done on the dyno. A couple guys were asking about spool on the street, so I did enough of a hit to test that.

I need to touch up the maf cal a little too at wot, so the maf g/s isn't going to be an accurate way to compare. Not too mention I run 6th port and meth. My maf curve is already scaled down 20% from a true maf curve. However the dyno numbers will be and thats what matters. What power are we putting down from one mani to the other.
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 Old 02-23-2016, 05:45 AM   #20
 
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Is a dyno any accurate way to measure the spool changes or will it only be useful for power numbers?
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 Old 02-23-2016, 06:43 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by cletusb View Post
Is a dyno any accurate way to measure the spool changes or will it only be useful for power numbers?
Yes it is useable for that as well. Its just slightly slower spool due to the load. But I have a few logs from the JMF on the dyno as well.

This is the dyno graph we will be using for a comparison. Same boost, timing and fuel curve will be used.
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 Old 02-23-2016, 10:36 AM   #22
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you have your own dyno, whats the holdup?
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 Old 02-23-2016, 10:38 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
you have your own dyno, whats the holdup?
Customer work needs to be done first or at least at a comfortable place to stop before messing with my own car. And there is only so many hours in a day. haha
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 Old 02-23-2016, 10:56 AM   #24
 
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In for 3am dyno testing!
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 Old 02-25-2016, 06:05 AM   #25
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This comparison is officially over. Next time car goes back together it will be with PI. Fun while it lasted I guess

Race season is around the corner and just running out of time to get a comparison with the exact mods.




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 Old 02-25-2016, 06:20 AM   #26
 
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Wtf
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 Old 02-25-2016, 06:25 AM   #27
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I hate to say it, but I'm not that surprised. I've been concerned since CP-E released their design that that plate wouldn't seal properly under high boost. Too bad.
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 Old 02-25-2016, 06:32 AM   #28
 
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ib4 installer error
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 Old 02-25-2016, 06:33 AM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
ib4 installer error
Lol! Some how I doubt that was what caused it

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 Old 02-25-2016, 07:04 AM   #30
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The diameter of the cover screws are 3/16" So not sure the clamping load those have. I'm tempted to just weld that plate on the front.

The mani did feel great at part throttle and quick easy hits. But first full pull to redline and heard what sounded like a boost leak, let car idle down and massive vacuum leak.

So I'll try and talk to them today and see what they say.
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 Old 02-25-2016, 07:35 AM   #31
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Did it strip the holes or just too much flex on the plate.

How rigid is the plate in your hands?

Is the orange shit a gasket that blew or some type of sealant. If sealant what kind and is it what was reocmended.


I agree that the size of those bolts combined with the limited thread engagement have been a concern of mine from the begining. But I guess that is the difference between being an engineer and just calling yourself one.

What boost pressure? Approximately.
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 Old 02-25-2016, 07:40 AM   #32
 
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I love cpes new blow off valve! It's kind of odd shaped though isn't it?

Sucks. Solidified my decision to keep my jmf though. Thanks for trying for us!


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 Old 02-25-2016, 07:44 AM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by Justin@Freektune View Post
I'm tempted to just weld that plate on the front.
Is there any reason that plate exists in the first place? Does it give access to something in the install process or something? I never understood why a window was left in the casting at all. I'm guessing for easier production or is it just to show off the velocity stacks?
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 Old 02-25-2016, 07:49 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
Did it strip the holes or just too much flex on the plate.

How rigid is the plate in your hands?

Is the orange shit a gasket that blew or some type of sealant. If sealant what kind and is it what was reocmended.


I agree that the size of those bolts combined with the limited thread engagement have been a concern of mine from the begining. But I guess that is the difference between being an engineer and just calling yourself one.

What boost pressure? Approximately.
The plate feels pretty rigid, That is a paper gasket.

Boost was a peak of 34psi.

Originally Posted by WetzMS3 View Post
Is there any reason that plate exists in the first place? Does it give access to something in the install process or something? I never understood why a window was left in the casting at all. I'm guessing for easier production or is it just to show off the velocity stacks?
I would assume more for the casting than anything. That plate needs to go on before its installed. There is no room to access a couple of the bolts on the front once installed. So once its on, its on forever. Well not in this case
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 Old 02-25-2016, 07:51 AM   #35
 
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Well, that's disappointing. I wonder what the purpose of that front plate is. If it isn't really needed for anything, maybe it's something CP-E could just weld right at the factory.
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 Old 02-25-2016, 07:52 AM   #36
 
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Paper gasket and tinny bolts is dumb, unless they want to double the number of screws. Needs a O-ring or rubber type gasket. That really doesn't make a lot of sense to use a thin gasket like that.
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 Old 02-25-2016, 07:53 AM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by WetzMS3 View Post
Is there any reason that plate exists in the first place? Does it give access to something in the install process or something? I never understood why a window was left in the casting at all. I'm guessing for easier production or is it just to show off the velocity stacks?
The Cosworth manifold has it as well, imagine it allows for visual on cast inside and easy access to the stacks for port/polish/cleanup.

Where did the gasket pieces go? hopefully they blew out completely and were not pulled in under vacuum. Would studding the screw holes and using nuts help? Or o-ringing the plate?

Sucks that you didn’t get to even complete the comparison; thanks for taking as far as you could
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 Old 02-25-2016, 07:59 AM   #38
 
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From what you are saying it sounds like they used 10-32 screws. What is the flange thickness where the cover bolts to?

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 Old 02-25-2016, 09:11 AM   #39
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Well. I just pulled my map sensor out and that is broken as well. She it's possible we had a meth backfire


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 Old 02-25-2016, 09:23 AM   #40
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Good thread Justin. Looks like i'll be welding my plate on before install. I've finished smoothing the v-stacks, just waiting on some fuel line and a chrysler t-body gasket before i install it. I still think the intake manifold has a lot of potential. I'm sure that paper gasket could be swapped out for a custom rubber gasket, or something a little more robust. Or, cp-e could even just weld the plates on at the factory if need be.

Either way... it'll be curious to see some real numbers at some point, even if it's not apples to apples with the JMF setup.
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