TIFU Wheel Hop On Going Issue

[Jrs7686]

Rewind a year ago:

I had a fresh install of Damond Motorsports RMM,TMM,and PMM. I had zero issues with wheel hop, I was able to spin as much as I wanted(line start or roll). After about 1000 miles I picked up some issues with wheel hop(violent amount). So I double checked all the nuts and bolts on the motor mounts re-torqued them, yet still had same issues with wheel hop. Shortly after re-torque, I was washing her I saw the bushings on the sway bar looked worn(explained the occasional clunk, which I suspected). I decided that I wanted to change out the bushing on the sway bar to [URL="http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=333_337_378 _379&products_id=297"]JBR Tru-Torsion Stainless Sway Bar Brackets and Bushings. This fixed the cluck for sure but still had wheel hop.

Changing out the bushing on the sway bar gave me the idea of changing out the bushings on the front control arm (in hopes this was going to fix my wheel hop).



So Last week I finished my install:

Front control arms with Whiteline caster correct bushing and Whiteline bushing (front)
Added front Sway Bar Adjustable End Links.
CorkSport Lower Tie Bar

Had 4 wheel alignment done, shortly after finishing install.

I had put another 100 miles on parts and just finished re-torque of nuts and bolts. Did not find anything loose.

The end result is wheel hop is just as bad as ever. This is leading me to one or two things left to check.


1) Front struts and springs are sh*t, Koni Yellows and Cobb springs with ~ 10K miles.

Which case I'm not sure how to tell if they are bad. I can adjust damping on them and it appears they respond as expected. But even on the hardest setting I'm still getting wheel hop.

2) My tires are sh*t, Michelin pilot super sports 245/45r17 on rpf1s. ~ 10 K miles on those.

My thoughts are even if a tire is losing "grip", it should had spun not wheel hop.

3) I have a bad install on anyone or multiple parts( which I'm pretty sure I should have seen something or even found something lose and caught during re-torque.


Any thoughts on what to check next? I just want to either hook up or spin them tires.




Suspension Mods:

Whiteline caster correction bushing (front control arm)
Whiteline bushing (front control arm)
Whiteline sway bar adjustable end links (front)
JBR front sway bar bushings
JBR adjustable RSB
Koni Yellows ( all 4 )
Cobb springs ( all 4)
DM PMM,TMM,and RMM
CorkSport lower tie bar

Power Mods:

Cobb SRI,TIP and DP
ETS TMIC
RichTune 93 oct ( 295 HP/340TQ)
Step Colder Plugs

[Vansquish]

Check the bushings in your Damond motor mounts. Everything wears out eventually.

[Jrs7686]

Originally Posted by Vansquish Check the bushings in your Damond motor mounts. Everything wears out eventually.

after 3000 miles?

[Vansquish]

Doesn't hurt to look.

[tmillner]

Post pic of tire wear. Did you rotate and see if issue went away

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[Jrs7686]

Originally Posted by tmillner Post pic of tire wear. Did you rotate and see if issue went away Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

yes I did rotate tires, due it every oil change. As a result I have very even tire wear. I can send pics but it isn't it. I still have bad wheel hop.

[PadreDave]

Only 10K miles on a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports? OUCH! That is not cheap rubber!


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[Carskick]

Originally Posted by PadreDave Only 10K miles on a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sports? OUCH! That is not cheap rubber! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That really sucks. I was disappointed that the DM RMM alone didn't significantly help my wheel hop. I look forward to your resolution!

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[Jrs7686]

Originally Posted by Carskick That really sucks. I was disappointed that the DM RMM alone didn't significantly help my wheel hop. I look forward to your resolution! Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I can't be the only one with this issue. I know there is more knowledge out there.

Originally Posted by Vansquish Doesn't hurt to look.

After making a few phone calls next week, I'll give very high considerations to inspecting mounts depending on what I hear.

[Jerome.mps]

Originally Posted by Carskick That really sucks. I was disappointed that the DM RMM alone didn't significantly help my wheel hop. I look forward to your resolution! Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Did you get the solution to your wheel hop?

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[Carskick]

Originally Posted by Jerome.mps Did you get the solution to your wheel hop? Sent from my MHA-L09 using Tapatalk

No, I haven't. The new tires/wheels didn't make a difference, though I'm hopeful the bushings will. I was surprised the OP is still having problems even after all of his upgrades.

[Jerome.mps]

Originally Posted by Carskick No, I haven't. The new tires/wheels didn't make a difference, though I'm hopeful the bushings will. I was surprised the OP is still having problems even after all of his upgrades.

Thanks for the reply man, i have the same problem , at first i ran the inserts in my rmm and had no wheel hop with the other mounts still stock, i upgraded my rmm now and started to get hop again ,strange, im hoping when i do my tmm the hop will decrease somewhat.
Please post your solution should you find one.


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[Carskick]

Originally Posted by Jerome.mps Thanks for the reply man, i have the same problem , at first i ran the inserts in my rmm and had no wheel hop with the other mounts still stock, i upgraded my rmm now and started to get hop again ,strange, im hoping when i do my tmm the hop will decrease somewhat. Please post your solution should you find one. Sent from my MHA-L09 using Tapatalk

Will do. The JBR 70A seemed to hop less, but I swapped it due to NVH. The Damond is supposed to be the best, but it does hop. But I still believe bushings or struts to be my issue. They're all original with over 10 years and 90k on them. My current solution is not not launch or hard shift the car! through the first 2 gears. With all my power mods, I find 3rd and 4 gear pulls to be so fun that it doesn't bother me too much. It's also forcing me to try to learn how to accelerate quickly and 1st and 2nd while minimizing wheel spin with my right foot. So I guess driver mod.

[the_red_baron]

Originally Posted by Jerome.mps Thanks for the reply man, i have the same problem , at first i ran the inserts in my rmm and had no wheel hop with the other mounts still stock, i upgraded my rmm now and started to get hop again ,strange, im hoping when i do my tmm the hop will decrease somewhat. Please post your solution should you find one. Sent from my MHA-L09 using Tapatalk

Years ago I had an SRT-4 Neon that I had purchased a full set of solid mounts for. Due to the installation process to do the transmission mount, I initially only ran the upper and lower engine mounts. It reduced wheel hop but it vibrated like a cheap motel massage bed. But that fucker felt raw and angry so I just lived with it like that for a while. Eventually I put in the transmission mount and the vibrations disappeared and it actually was a bit disappointing since I was so used to it feeling like "race car", dumb as that was.

The point I'm making is when you start doing all this tightening up of parts, the weakest point is going to do all the giving instead of the load being more evenly distributed. You went from an insert, which I think we can all agree is considered a mild upgrade to the mount, to a more solid one, forcing the now weaker upper and tranny mounts to have to fight more forces or perhaps more accurately you're making the RMM more of a pivot point. I could be off in my explanation but you're only as strong as your weakest link. OP had of bunch of suspension and power mods. I'm posting on mobile right now so I'm unsure if he stated it or not, but I'm pretty sure we don't know when the different mods were done. It seems common knowledge surrounding mounts is they take anywhere from 100 to 1000 miles to break in, depending on who you're talking to, so any changes done to the car during that time, if any, can obfuscate the origin of the issue.

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[Jerome.mps]

Originally Posted by the_red_baron Years ago I had an SRT-4 Neon that I had purchased a full set of solid mounts for. Due to the installation process to do the transmission mount, I initially only ran the upper and lower engine mounts. It reduced wheel hop but it vibrated like a cheap motel massage bed. But that fucker felt raw and angry so I just lived with it like that for a while. Eventually I put in the transmission mount and the vibrations disappeared and it actually was a bit disappointing since I was so used to it feeling like "race car", dumb as that was. The point I'm making is when you start doing all this tightening up of parts, the weakest point is going to do all the giving instead of the load being more evenly distributed. You went from an insert, which I think we can all agree is considered a mild upgrade to the mount, to a more solid one, forcing the now weaker upper and tranny mounts to have to fight more forces or perhaps more accurately you're making the RMM more of a pivot point. I could be off in my explanation but you're only as strong as your weakest link. OP had of bunch of suspension and power mods. I'm posting on mobile right now so I'm unsure if he stated it or not, but I'm pretty sure we don't know when the different mods were done. It seems common knowledge surrounding mounts is they take anywhere from 100 to 1000 miles to break in, depending on who you're talking to, so any changes done to the car during that time, if any, can obfuscate the origin of the issue. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thanks man, another buddy of mine also told me the other 2 mounts needs upgrading aswell, thats my next 2 mods

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[Carskick]

So a little update for me. My OEM shocks were really getting bad. I finally replaced them with Koni STR.T shocks and my wheel hop has been significantly reduced. We checked all the bushings, and nothing appeared really bad, so left them alone for now. That being said, some of the bad hopping caused my PMM to leak a little of the dreaded orange fluid. I cleaned it up so I could track it, but after replacing the shocks, it hasn't leaked more. I still plan on replacing PMM & TMM in the next 12 months or so. I have a feeling that between the shocks and the motor mounts, my wheel hop will be almost gone.

But I think the shocks were my main problem...

[Pu Manchu]

your PMM ruptured and you plan on replacing it in the next 12 months?

cool.

[Carskick]

Originally Posted by Pu Manchu your PMM ruptured and you plan on replacing it in the next 12 months? cool.

It doesn't it appear to have ruptured yet, it just leaked out of very small amount of fluid. I cleaned it up so I can keep an eye on it. If it shows any signs of immediate issue, I will be forced to replace it sooner.

But currently, it's still doing it's job, so I'm going to wait till at least tax season if it will make it.

Trust me, if it were bad, it would be replaced immediately.