'11 motor/tranny into '10 chassis

[DarkPasseng3r]

Pardon my naive question but I'm just really interested in a straightforward answer.

I blew my motor in my 2010 MS3 on my birthday about a week ago, and of course it will not be covered under warranty. Luckily, I've found a motor from a 2011 MS3 that only has 300ish miles on it. My plan it to drop this motor and transmission into my 2010...

My question is in regards to the ECM, TCM... will the 2010 ECM and TCM work with the 2011? Also, are there any known revisions about the motor/tranny in the 2011?

[xtasy]

I would call Mazda first and check if the part numbers are the same.

[Monotonous ONE]

Moar details on blown motor. Circumstances? Etc

[DarkPasseng3r]

Blown motor - rod through the block. Happened while cruising 2700-2900k @60mph in 6th gear. Knock was .1 when it happened.

[Steven]

Why wouldnt the warranty cover it?

[manila]

I'm really interested on how you blew your motor. That's some massive torque you got on that tune. Typo?

Why not just stock out and flash the OEM map?
You can always just try that route and blame Mazda for your mess-up.

[cesaros]

2011 engine/tranny is same as 2010.

not sure about late late 2011 when they transitioned into 2012 tho...

[akbrazil]

I'm also interested to know about how the engine blew.
Full details please

[InFeXIoN]

He was playing mad scientist in atr playing with stuff ye shouldn't n then compounding driving hard over the course of the time the damage was done then kaboom.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[snailD]

Well it was my belief that Mazda has fixed the highway boom for the 2010 plus, aparantly not. How do u know knock was .1? Were u logging? Monitoring and afte it happend all you saw was a .1 for max on the ap? Why won't Mazda cover it for you? Did u not stock out? Please update us with some details

[rghispanic88]

well his sig does say self tune. maybe he fucked up big time.

anyways, i think it might work but then again dont quote me.

@rfinkle2 @atvfreek

[kritz]

I don't know why it vented the block but would guess timing was a little aggressive. Are those numbers (HP and TQ) from a dyno or VD? Stock it out bud!

[GunGuru727]

You were cruising or did you punch it at 2700 while cruising?

Me confuzzzzzed

[DarkPasseng3r]

Originally Posted by GunGuru727 You were cruising or did you punch it at 2700 while cruising? Me confuzzzzzed

I was only cruising...Just normal driving. Wasnt trying to punch it at all.

I've already been dealing with Mazda. They will not cover anything. Everything is out of my pocket.

My tune is aggressive. Although those numbers come from VD, I was running some very aggressive timing. I was unaware that 320ish ft lb was probably the most reliable for a daily driver with stock engine internals.

[Monotonous ONE]

Your still unaware of what is ok for a daily driver on stock internals

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by DarkPasseng3r I was only cruising...Just normal driving. Wasnt trying to punch it at all. I've already been dealing with Mazda. They will not cover anything. Everything is out of my pocket. My tune is aggressive. Although those numbers come from VD, I was running some very aggressive timing. I was unaware that 320ish ft lb was probably the most reliable for a daily driver with stock engine internals.

2010's ecu is different than 2011 and 2012, and there may be small transmission changes from 2011-2012.

Sorry to hear about your motor.

The rods were likely already compromised from being beyond MBT and finally let go during casual driving.

Where you tuning off of the knock sensor?

[snailD]

We're u dealing with Mazda while you were modded? Can u answer my previous questions on how u saw knock of .1?

[DarkPasseng3r]

@rfinkle2 - yes, I was tuning off the knock sensor.

@snailD - I usually have the knock screen up on my AP when I am driving. At this time, I happen to be on that screen because it is able to log any peaks. That was the peak at the time of the occurrence. And yes, I was dealing with Mazda while I was modded. But regardless of if I was modded or not, they are easily able to check into the computer to see if any computer modifications were made.

Originally Posted by Monotonous ONE Your still unaware of what is ok for a daily driver on stock internals

Would you clarify it for everyone just in case you have that information?

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by DarkPasseng3r But regardless of if I was modded or not, they are easily able to check into the computer to see if any computer changes were made

no they aren't

[dantes5823]

Yes they are. Once they plug in with their comp they can see every little shit you did. But they have to look for it. So if a tech sees your fully bolted and thinks hmm lets take a look, he'll find it.

As for timing, phate has a thread on here with dyno proven MBT numbers. Thank god i found it in time cause i was literally in the middle of a revision and when i checked i was passing it, with no knock.

[Steven]

From what Ive read somehwere on here our ECU's dont have KAM (Keep alive memory). Uninstalling the AP and disconnecting the batt should leave no trace of the AP, but the tech inspecting your car might see only a few key cycles. Just come up with a bs excuse like you thought it would fix your problem.

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by Steven From what Ive read somehwere on here our ECU's dont have KAM (Keep alive memory). Uninstalling the AP and disconnecting the batt should leave no trace of the AP, but the tech inspecting your car might see only a few key cycles. Just come up with a bs excuse like you thought it would fix your problem.

Qft

[backward_0]

If they can tell i have flashed my ECU, COBB is lying. I think Mazda are the proven liars in my experience.

[atvfreek]

2011 motor and trans will work. There is no reason to swap a 2011 PCM into your car, so just use your stock one. If you were to try and swap PCM's your car wouldn't start, due to the PATS system and incorrect VIN ID.

P.S. I am a tech and we wouldn't check for codes for a hole in the block. Unmarry the AP and stock out. Even if they did check codes, just say your car wouldn't start so you disconnected the battery and re connected. Play dumb. Take your chances and send it to a dealer that you haven't been to. Worse case scenario they decline te repair.

[DarkPasseng3r]

Originally Posted by dantes5823 As for timing, phate has a thread on here with dyno proven MBT numbers. Thank god i found it in time cause i was literally in the middle of a revision and when i checked i was passing it, with no knock.

You mind posting the link for everyone? I've never seen it (obviously), so I wouldn't know what to search for.

[dantes5823]

Originally Posted by DarkPasseng3r You mind posting the link for everyone? I've never seen it (obviously), so I wouldn't know what to search for.

I'll Try and find it.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/forum/f567/e85-e85-mix-ignition-timing-database-100743/

[DarkPasseng3r]

Originally Posted by atvfreek P.S. I am a tech and we wouldn't check for codes for a hole in the block. Unmarry the AP and stock out. Even if they did check codes, just say your car wouldn't start so you disconnected the battery and re connected. Play dumb. Take your chances and send it to a dealer that you haven't been to. Worse case scenario they decline te repair.

Considering I've already been declined for warranty because I've already been to a dealership, and Mazda has the files and pictures on me (and most likely VIN), do you think that would still matter to take it to another dealership after being stocked out and playing out my story a little better?

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by DarkPasseng3r Considering I've already been declined for warranty because I've already been to a dealership, and Mazda has the files and pictures on me (and most likely VIN), do you think that would still matter to take it to another dealership after being stocked out and playing out my story a little better?

If you had your car at a dealership already and a repair order was written, then you are screwed. But if you only talked to them over the phone. Then the next dealership will have no clue.

[dantes5823]

The E85 and E85 Mix *Ignition Timing* Database

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by DarkPasseng3r You mind posting the link for everyone? I've never seen it (obviously), so I wouldn't know what to search for.

More important than the link is that Phate and DJ suggested that because of the effective octane of e85 in direct injection, you can't tune from feedback of the knock sensor because you may actually pass MBT without any knock.

I'll link to the thread and tbh, to be VERY safe, would use an additional margin of safety beyond what is listed as known good ignition values for e85.

I.e. I would stay a few degrees below those posted in the e85 mbt thread for safety.

I'm really sorry to hear this man. I hope you don't take my post as rubbing it in. I just hope that when you get things back together, you have the info available to you.

The E85 and E85 Mix *Ignition Timing* Database

Edit: Dante posted the same link above...

[dantes5823]

Yea that's pretty much what i did. More so at lower rpm. I think I went like 1 or 2 lower everywhere else. I was in the middle of a revision with timing 1 or 2 over those numbers when Rob pm'd me. And like expected I wasn't getting any knock.

[DarkPasseng3r]

The woes of being misinformed. Thanks for the help guys. On the bright side, all I'll need is to build a short block and I'll have a second motor. I just bought the '11 motor yesterday, and will be dropping it in sometimes this week. Gonna rebuild the old motor as bulletproof as budget allows and maybe find me an rx7 or miata and do something different.