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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Over the weekend I got a check engine light – took out the trusty scanner and it pulled a P2098 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System too Lean Bank 1). My mods are high flow catted down pipe, test pipe, complete cold air kit and bigger intercooler. All mods were done back in Dec of 2009. I put over 9000 miles since the mods (Currently have 16K miles). Anybody with a similar problem and what did you do to fix?? When I erase codes, it comes back after one day worth of driving (roughly 30 miles).
__________________ MODS: BNR STAGE 3 Turbo - CP-E Turbo Inlet - CP-E Cold Air Intake - Forge BPV - Street Unit Silicone Inlet & Outlet Hoses - UR Catted Down Pipe - UR Test Pipe - ETS Top Mount Intercooler - COBB AP (WOT-Tune) - KMD Internals - Grimmspeed EBC - HAWK HPS Front Pads - JB dog bone rear mount - NGK (1 step colder plugs) - DDM HID (Headlights & Fogs) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Reset it and see if it comes back, I'm wondering if perhaps its CAI related...or one of your other airflow mods. I am surprised your just now getting it, makes me concerned about a possible injector problem |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Ok...so update: I got the light again after a second reset and only driving a short distance before the light pops up again. What do guys think it is?? Anybody with a similar problem?? I haven't changed anything...added anything since Dec of 2009.
__________________ MODS: BNR STAGE 3 Turbo - CP-E Turbo Inlet - CP-E Cold Air Intake - Forge BPV - Street Unit Silicone Inlet & Outlet Hoses - UR Catted Down Pipe - UR Test Pipe - ETS Top Mount Intercooler - COBB AP (WOT-Tune) - KMD Internals - Grimmspeed EBC - HAWK HPS Front Pads - JB dog bone rear mount - NGK (1 step colder plugs) - DDM HID (Headlights & Fogs) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() You said you did have these mods last winter? When it gets colder, air gets denser and the ECU will compensate by upping fuel pressures. Is it only at idle? You only have one code? |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() only one code and yes I had all these mods since last winter so I don't see why the weather would affect it now but not before. What do you guys think??? Where should I look..?? I check the exhuast to see if the O2 where ok...they both look brand new...no exhaust leaks, the wires look fine...I also checked the intake track and everything looks good....every time I erase the code it comes back with only a few miles driven....
__________________ MODS: BNR STAGE 3 Turbo - CP-E Turbo Inlet - CP-E Cold Air Intake - Forge BPV - Street Unit Silicone Inlet & Outlet Hoses - UR Catted Down Pipe - UR Test Pipe - ETS Top Mount Intercooler - COBB AP (WOT-Tune) - KMD Internals - Grimmspeed EBC - HAWK HPS Front Pads - JB dog bone rear mount - NGK (1 step colder plugs) - DDM HID (Headlights & Fogs) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() My buddies car is doing the same thing. He has a downpipe on it, mazdaspeed cai, bpv, and exhaust. If he figures his out Ill let you know..
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() i just added my cat back to my dp/tp...its in the 40s here now and im getting the same code. my best guess...engine is easier to breath, runs slightly leaner...cold weather means slightly leaner. my DD says my stock afr now is 13.5 rather then 14.7...with i tune this should get rid of the code.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Youre not upping fuel pressures you are adding more fuel to bring your trims inline to keep your afrs good. If the comp has to add more then 25% I think then it will throw a code. Is that 13.5 at wot? If it is that's bad.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() nope im still in the 10s at wot...at part throttle, normal driving though im down around 13.5 when stock exhaust was at 14.7
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If I find anything out or someone else does post up your solution. I can post a log if anyone thinks it will help. I have one I can post with FRP, STFT, LTFT, Boost, and abs. load. I can get some more with AFR tonight or tomorrow. Anything else I should log that would help to figure this out?
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Here are 2 logs from tonight you can see that my AFR is in the high 13 while cruising and in the 10s at WOT. The codes Im getting are P2096 and P0137
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() If you have some kinda monitoring device that would help alot......we need a LOG
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() its most likely the DP. when you installed the DP did you add a defouler?
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() how do you reset it? might have something to do with the light coming back on, or maybe not |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() have you checked all your vaccum hoses? is your dp pipe catted? |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Went over everything yesterday, The only potential issue I found was a small split in the Recirc. hose where it attached to the BPV, It didnt look like it was cracked all the way through but I ordered a new one from Corksport to see if It helps but I dont think it was leaking through there. My DP is Catless
__________________ 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Fully Bolted FP Green Setup 368WHP / 335WTQ SOLD: Black Mica 2010 MS3 - Tech Package -CPE Catless DP - CS CBE - SURE Aeros - SURE Sidewinder - TS BPV - CPE HPFP - JBarone Shifter Bushings - TRZ RMM - MD OCC - Progress RSB - DashDAQ - 18x8.5 +45 Rays Gram Light 57F - 235/40 Potenza RE760 |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() For you other guys with this problem, how does UR have the Bung for the rear O2 sensor setup? Is it extended at all and can you post a pic or is it just a straight extension like in the pic on their site?
__________________ 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Fully Bolted FP Green Setup 368WHP / 335WTQ SOLD: Black Mica 2010 MS3 - Tech Package -CPE Catless DP - CS CBE - SURE Aeros - SURE Sidewinder - TS BPV - CPE HPFP - JBarone Shifter Bushings - TRZ RMM - MD OCC - Progress RSB - DashDAQ - 18x8.5 +45 Rays Gram Light 57F - 235/40 Potenza RE760 |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Found this on NASIOC, anyone have any ideas on how to test the harness between the sensor plug and the ECU? "This is a code 92096 for "post catalyst fuel trim system too lean Bank 1) It is related to the rear most O/2 sensor. I have seen this in my travels with 05MY imprezas and legacys. And it has almost always been a poor conection in the wiring harness. that rear 0/2 has a jumper harness between it and the main harrness. and that is where the problem has been found. not to say you dont have a faulty sensor, or maybe you actually do have a lean condition......who would think it? Anyway, its an 05 so get it to the dealer and let them fix it."
__________________ 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Fully Bolted FP Green Setup 368WHP / 335WTQ SOLD: Black Mica 2010 MS3 - Tech Package -CPE Catless DP - CS CBE - SURE Aeros - SURE Sidewinder - TS BPV - CPE HPFP - JBarone Shifter Bushings - TRZ RMM - MD OCC - Progress RSB - DashDAQ - 18x8.5 +45 Rays Gram Light 57F - 235/40 Potenza RE760 |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Ok do this......Go to the store buy a pack of cigarettes *which ever you like doesnt matter* dirve the car up on ramps light your cigarette enjoy it for a minute now crawl under the car inhale some of the cigarette dont blow it out just open ur mouth let it come out by the exhaust connections see if it gets blown away by a leak do this to all the connections. If no leak take your MAF sensor out clean it with MAF cleaner reset the ECU. I believe the last person i saw with this code had a bad MAF sensor GL man!
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I cleaned the MAF, Im 99% sure there are no leaks other than the one I found back under where the stock muffler is but Ill look at it again.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() rear o2 sensor sits on an angle into the pipe. i looked inside the bung before the installation and there was a super tiny hole at the bottom of the bung going into the dp. i dont think they bottom sensor is getting a strong enough temp reading which may be why its throwing a low voltage code. im getting tuned next month by john. that should clear them all.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I never looked inside the extension of the CPE pipe, maybe ill just go get a new bung welded in and see if that changes anything, it cant hurt. If not John will be here Monday and hopefully everything can get cleared up then
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() For anyone interested, i think Silverdemon and I figured this out, Ill post my results if it works. If you look at the following logs that I took on my drive home today, the O2 sensor is reading 0 volts while I'm cruising on the highway. When I'm sitting at idle in traffic it jumps up to 0.9 volts like it should. The theory is, like dMuze said above that the sensor isn't getting enough hot exhaust over it with the extension on there especially at higher speeds. I also noticed that when I let off the gas and coast in gear the sensor reads 0 but as soon as I stop an let it idle it jumps to 0.9 in a second or two as the extension is able to fill with exhaust. Im going to go have another bung welded in for the O2 sensor and let it just stick into the pipe, Id rather have a Cat Inefficiency CEL then one that messes with my AFR and Trims.
__________________ 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Fully Bolted FP Green Setup 368WHP / 335WTQ SOLD: Black Mica 2010 MS3 - Tech Package -CPE Catless DP - CS CBE - SURE Aeros - SURE Sidewinder - TS BPV - CPE HPFP - JBarone Shifter Bushings - TRZ RMM - MD OCC - Progress RSB - DashDAQ - 18x8.5 +45 Rays Gram Light 57F - 235/40 Potenza RE760 |
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__________________ 2010 Silver MS3 Tech Pkg 307whp, 340ft/lbs tq CS SRI/TIP, UR Turbo Back, UR FMIC, TS Dual Port BOV, DENSO ITV22 Plugs, AP EcuTek ProTune, DO STG 2 Prog Kit 100% Meth, JBR SSP w/ Bushings, CS Springs, JBR camber arms, Koni yellows, 80D PMM/88D RMM/88D TMM, MD OCC, CP-E HPFP, Ford Motorcraft tranny fluid, DashDaq, Kenwood 12"sub, Kicker 400w amp, DDM 35W 6k lows/3k fogs, CS LED kit, 20% tint. ![]() | |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Update...i emailed UR about the CEL's...they said the intent of the diagonal bung and small punch hole was to avoid a cel, but my car may be more sensitive...at any rate it looks like im getting it back on the lift fri or sat to drill out the rest of that hole so the exhaust gas can freely pass by the sensor...that way i can get a proper tune next month.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Here are a few of the data logs that I took for a comparison. I am running the version 1 turboXS down pipe (catless) and their mid pipe. The TXS set up does not have the offset bung, it only utilizes a longer bung, somewhat like a built in anti-fouler. The only code I have ever gotten was a P0421 on cold mornings. First screen shot is idling down the driveway, the second is just cruising, and the third is a WOT pull through 5th.
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() I don't believe my downpipe has a tiny hole for the o2 as it is the highflow version from UR. You guys which received the cel light....did it come on after you installed your mods or during the weather change??? Like I mention in the first post, I have had my mods installed for 11 months and only now that I receive a cel light for the first time.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Mine was right after the install. I have an appointment Thursday to get the rear O2 bung changed and from the looks of it that should fix it.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() same. mine came on the day after the install. i also have a high flow cat. the reason they put such a small hole and mounted the bung on an angle in attempt to avoid a cel. now if my code was a cat inefficiency code, that would mean the exhaust gas read on the rear o2 was too hot...prob the same temp as the fwd sensor...with a low voltage or slow response code, not enough exhaust gasses are passing over the sensor. the lean code arrived once i added my cat back, and temps got below 50
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() just ran 3 logs...what program do i need to see them as graphs on my computer? they show up in excel as data
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Im using Logworks for mine, not excel
__________________ 2011 DGM STI Sedan - Fully Bolted FP Green Setup 368WHP / 335WTQ SOLD: Black Mica 2010 MS3 - Tech Package -CPE Catless DP - CS CBE - SURE Aeros - SURE Sidewinder - TS BPV - CPE HPFP - JBarone Shifter Bushings - TRZ RMM - MD OCC - Progress RSB - DashDAQ - 18x8.5 +45 Rays Gram Light 57F - 235/40 Potenza RE760 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to smitty5788 For This Useful Post: | dMuze (11-10-2010) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() i just downloaded the logworks software, do you hook your logger right up to the computer or just the sd card?
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() just the SD card, then go to file > open file log
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The Following User Says Thank You to smitty5788 For This Useful Post: | dMuze (11-10-2010) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() make sure your log file type is a logworks csv also, you can pick the file type in the log screen on the DD If you could take some logs like mine or Scott's and we can look at what your o2 voltage is doing. If it looks like mine, I think we can be sure its the extension on the O2 sensor.
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The Following User Says Thank You to smitty5788 For This Useful Post: | dMuze (11-10-2010) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() thats what i did...one idle (warm), one cruising, one wot 1-5. il prob have to redo the logs though since il have to change the format it saves as.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() alright, post them up when you get a chance, hopefully it looks the same.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Hey guys, my car also has a DP on it and I get the p2096 code. It's none of the mentioned brands here, we have tried everything to fix this but it just comes back anywhere from 100 to 400 miles. We have tried different bung lengths and 3 different positions on the DP all with no luck. Note that this DP is on atleast 10 gen 1 cars with no problems at all. It only is happening on gen 2 here. Would love to fix this but I'm not holding my breath. |
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__________________ 2010 Silver MS3 Tech Pkg 307whp, 340ft/lbs tq CS SRI/TIP, UR Turbo Back, UR FMIC, TS Dual Port BOV, DENSO ITV22 Plugs, AP EcuTek ProTune, DO STG 2 Prog Kit 100% Meth, JBR SSP w/ Bushings, CS Springs, JBR camber arms, Koni yellows, 80D PMM/88D RMM/88D TMM, MD OCC, CP-E HPFP, Ford Motorcraft tranny fluid, DashDaq, Kenwood 12"sub, Kicker 400w amp, DDM 35W 6k lows/3k fogs, CS LED kit, 20% tint. ![]() | |
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On another note I reset me ECU last night. On the way to work this morning I watched my O2 voltage and made sure to keep enough throttle to keep the sensor voltage about 0.7V. No CEL, AFR is right on and tims are really good. I have no doubt the P0137 is due to the extension and the P0137 is causing the car to dump fuel because it thinks its lean causing the P2096 code. DMuze, if your logs show the same kind of sensor voltage behavior I think we can be pretty sure this is the problem.
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to be sure im monitoring the same shit for the logs... i have boost, afr, spark, stft, ltft, frp, rpm... anything else?
__________________ 2010 Silver MS3 Tech Pkg 307whp, 340ft/lbs tq CS SRI/TIP, UR Turbo Back, UR FMIC, TS Dual Port BOV, DENSO ITV22 Plugs, AP EcuTek ProTune, DO STG 2 Prog Kit 100% Meth, JBR SSP w/ Bushings, CS Springs, JBR camber arms, Koni yellows, 80D PMM/88D RMM/88D TMM, MD OCC, CP-E HPFP, Ford Motorcraft tranny fluid, DashDaq, Kenwood 12"sub, Kicker 400w amp, DDM 35W 6k lows/3k fogs, CS LED kit, 20% tint. ![]() | |
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Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
Who's running a catless DP? | This thread | Refback | 08-02-2011 06:53 PM | |
Important for all 2010's running catless DP | This thread | Refback | 02-18-2011 09:30 PM |
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