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 Old 06-22-2010, 06:19 AM   #1
 
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Default What oil are you using?

What oil are you running? Getting ready to come back to the States and move to North Dakota. When I was there before I ran 5w30 in my truck for the cooler temps. What would be a good oil to use up in the tundra?
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 Old 06-22-2010, 07:15 AM   #2
 
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12,500 miles on mine and I use Valvoline Synthetic 5w40 and we have some serious weather swings in northern virginia.
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 Old 06-22-2010, 08:04 AM   #3
 
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Penzoil Platinum 5w30..i live in Wyoming where last week it was 40degrees and a couple flurries, and this week it's 95 degrees and sunny...I win with weather changes.
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 Old 06-22-2010, 10:58 AM   #4
 
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Just switched from Amsoil Euro 5W-40 to a mix of Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 (2qts.) and 10W-30 (4qts.). I wish Pennzoil made a 10W-40. I'd like to run that in the summer and their 5W-40 in the winter. I'm in the east county of San Diego so we see 100+ temps. during summer. Both seem like good oils. I'm going to have this oil sent to blackstone for analysis when it's time to change.
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 Old 06-26-2010, 01:58 PM   #5
 
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Non-Turbo MZR 2.0l , second oil change, using conventional 5w20 (book recommended) currently at 4,300 miles at around 10k ill switch to semi-synthetic at by 15k ill be fully synthetic.

Quakerstate Oil, Fram 3x Extra Guard Oil Filter
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 Old 06-26-2010, 04:43 PM   #6
 
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i was buying w.e 5w30 synthetic they had on sale. now im trying the valvoline 300k engine gaurantee with thier 5w30 syn
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 Old 06-26-2010, 04:51 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by maz94protege View Post
Non-Turbo MZR 2.0l , second oil change, using conventional 5w20 (book recommended) currently at 4,300 miles at around 10k ill switch to semi-synthetic at by 15k ill be fully synthetic.

Quakerstate Oil, Fram 3x Extra Guard Oil Filter
OP- Please don't use this weight oil for your speed. Not sure why he is even posting about 2L mazda 3s on here anyhow.
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 Old 06-26-2010, 05:03 PM   #8
 
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i just got my shit changed.

Im using Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 w/ fram 6x filter
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 Old 06-28-2010, 08:14 AM   #9
 
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Mobil 1 5w30 and OEM filter. Pennzoil Plat or Ultra is highly recommended because of its resistance to chemical shearing. Don't forget the aluminum crush washer on the drain plug. You can get them from your dealer or online. PM me if you want links.
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 Old 06-29-2010, 09:03 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by neverone99 View Post
Mobil 1 5w30 and OEM filter. Pennzoil Plat or Ultra is highly recommended because of its resistance to chemical shearing. Don't forget the aluminum crush washer on the drain plug. You can get them from your dealer or online. PM me if you want links.
I've heard that Penzzoil Plat is recommended for our engines. Is it better than Mobil 1?
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 Old 06-29-2010, 11:17 PM   #11
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Any advice for what to use in Tucson AZ heat conditions?
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 Old 06-29-2010, 11:33 PM   #12
 
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I was running Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 up until switching to Ultra 5w-30. I've had zero issues and my UOA's are phenomenal. Temps ranging from -10F to 95F without issue. I will say, though, that I added a little Marvel's Mystery Oil in the winter just to slick it up for start-up, but it wasn't very much as these synthetics look like running water most of the time anyways.
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 Old 06-29-2010, 11:41 PM   #13
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Snake Oil
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 Old 06-30-2010, 01:07 AM   #14
 
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Pennzoil Ultra... got sucked in to the hype.
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 Old 06-30-2010, 06:52 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by indianaryan View Post
I've heard that Penzzoil Plat is recommended for our engines. Is it better than Mobil 1?
Pennzoil Platinum seems to handle chemical shear better according to many UOA's on BITOG. I would consider it better for this engine than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is still good, it's just that PP is a little bit better. Remember that not all engines have this "problem". What performs well in one type of engine may not perform as well in another type.

Chem Shear is when the viscosity of an oil is thinned out because of the introduction of gas in to your oil. This imho is why Mazda recommends 5w30 instead of 5w20 for the 2.3 DISI because many UOA's are showing chem shearing down to a 20 weight. So you put 30 in and end up with 20. Imagine what would happen if you put a 20 weight in...would it chem shear down to 10? Who knows...but I would never try it.

Originally Posted by AZRushki View Post
Any advice for what to use in Tucson AZ heat conditions?
Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra 5w30 or your synthetic of choice. You do want a synthetic, right? Of course you do.

Originally Posted by MATT DAMOND View Post
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I agree. The problem with these oil supplements is that they usually are just a high viscosity mineral oil and a solvent (soap). When you use them you have to use less of your regular oil. Regular oil comes with its own additive package specifically designed for that oil. What happens is you end up with less of the good stuff in your pan. If you substitute 1 quart of regular oil for MMO then you just reduced your additive package by 1/6 and increased the viscosity beyond what Mazda recommends (and warranties?). Is MMO as bad as Lucas? I don't know...perform a VOA and find out. According to the MSDS for MMO it looks like it's about the same however.

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 Old 06-30-2010, 07:00 AM   #16
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he's not even asking about what to put in his speed.

Originally Posted by Dino View Post
What would be a good oil to use up in the tundra?
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 Old 06-30-2010, 08:30 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by xcoldricex View Post
he's not even asking about what to put in his speed.
Interesting place for this question, no?
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 Old 06-30-2010, 08:33 AM   #18
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yes, not to mention there are a bunch of threads about oil.
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 Old 06-30-2010, 08:52 AM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by xcoldricex View Post
he's not even asking about what to put in his speed.
Pretty sure he was asking what he should use in his 2nd Gen Speed 3 in North Dakota (up in the tundra).

Doesn't matter either way, recommendations are still the same.
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 Old 06-30-2010, 09:03 AM   #20
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hahaha you're right. he was talking about his truck and the tundra and i just linked the two.

if 5w30 worked for the truck in the cold, i don't see why you wouldn't just go with 5w30/5w40 in the speed.
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 Old 06-30-2010, 09:38 AM   #21
 
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I'm using 5w40 Castrol Full synthetic. As recommended by Mazda USA.
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 Old 07-08-2010, 09:30 AM   #22
 
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how man quarts are you using exactly? i got the 2010 speed 3. i am about to do my first oil change on it and have decided to go with the penzoil plat 5w30. is it the same process as a NA car or do i have to do something special due to the turbo? also autozone should know what kind of filter i need right? what would yall recomend for a filter with the penzoil? be specific please.
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 Old 07-08-2010, 10:16 AM   #23
 
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I'm in Socal area, which oil should I get? and which filter?

I know this question has been beaten to death.. but it will be great if someone can help me out with this.

Is there anyway I can order everything through online? My speed3 just hit 6000.. and am looking to change it out this weekend! So, please help!
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 Old 07-08-2010, 10:33 AM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by JS + MS3 View Post
I'm in Socal area, which oil should I get? and which filter?

I know this question has been beaten to death.. but it will be great if someone can help me out with this.

Is there anyway I can order everything through online? My speed3 just hit 6000.. and am looking to change it out this weekend! So, please help!
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This is a good thread to refer to. It looks like the consensus is Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 or 5w40. I would run 5w40 since you live in a warm climate. I'm not sure if the filter is all that important. I've been using Fram XG3614 (10x protection), but I could probably get away with the 6x protection or maybe even the 3x protection.

As far as how much to add, I've found that there's quite a bit of oil that can't be drained. I put 5 qts in, run the engine for a bit, check the oil level in a couple minutes, and add a little until the oil is close to the max fill line. Don't overfill! If you put in 6 qts, it's going to be too full because there will be maybe about 1/2 qt. leftover that won't drain.

Also, 6,000 is quite a long time to run on the same oil. I know the manual says every 7,500 miles, but UOA's will tell you this is too long. My dealer recommends to change it every 3,500 miles because of the turbo. Other people on this forum have been able to go 4,000+ without any issues on their UOA's. I would send your used oil in to have it tested to get an idea of how often you should be replacing it based on your driving habits and weather conditions.
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 Old 07-08-2010, 10:47 AM   #25
 
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Great. Thanks.

So, what I should purchase are 6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5w40 and Fram XG3614, right?

Yeah, I should have done my oil change sooner, but all my friends were telling me to just do it after 5000 miles... maybe not.

Anyway, thanks!

EDIT:
Amazon.com: Fram XG3614 Extended Guard Passenger Car Spin-On Oil Filter (Pack of 2): AutomotiveAmazon.com: Fram XG3614 Extended Guard Passenger Car Spin-On Oil Filter (Pack of 2): Automotive
this is the fram xg3614 right?
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 Old 07-08-2010, 10:51 AM   #26
 
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That should do it. The TG3614 should be good enough (6X protection), but it doesn't hurt to go with the XG3614. If you can't find 5w40, you should be fine with 5w30. I'm running 5w30 because the winters suck here in Missouri.
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 Old 07-08-2010, 10:53 AM   #27
 
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Thanks alot! Ordering them right now.
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 Old 07-08-2010, 11:02 AM   #28
 
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No problem. I'm not an expert by any means, so you might see if anyone else has any suggestions too.
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 Old 07-08-2010, 11:04 AM   #29
 
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You've already convinced me back on post $24.

Thanks! can't wait to change them out and be happy with it!
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 Old 07-08-2010, 12:03 PM   #30
 
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<= Did my 1st oil change at 1k, although the oil looked clean unlike some other people have reported. Got it changed with standard Pennzoil, I'll switch to Platinum when I get a job
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 Old 07-08-2010, 01:06 PM   #31
 
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Don't forget the aluminum crush washer for your drain plug. You can get them here. Looks like they have a good deal on OEM filters as well (which I prefer).
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 Old 07-09-2010, 11:48 AM   #32
 
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This might sound weird, but when I changed my oil the first time there was no crush washer present. It didn't fall onto the drain bin, and it wasn't stuck to the drain nut either, and no leaks to date. Our Subaru doesn't have a washer either. Anyone else have a "washerless" oil drain plug out there??
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 Old 07-16-2010, 10:50 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by Slow*Jim View Post
<= Did my 1st oil change at 1k, although the oil looked clean unlike some other people have reported. Got it changed with standard Pennzoil, I'll switch to Platinum when I get a job
Shame to see you put in conventional on a car that calls for synthetic to save $15... when you're changing your stock oil 4,000+ miles earlier than necessary.

:edit:
Also, Purolator Pure One or an Amsoil filter.
Fram sucks.
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 Old 07-17-2010, 05:47 AM   #34
 
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Why does my Speed3 come stock from the factory with a Honda drain bolt and a Toyota oil filter? lol
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 Old 07-17-2010, 07:49 AM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by Amazonian View Post
Why does my Speed3 come stock from the factory with a Honda drain bolt and a Toyota oil filter? lol
Didn't notice the Toyota filter, I'll have to check later. I know the dipstick says FoMoCo, which makes sense.
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 Old 07-20-2010, 03:59 PM   #36
 
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Just did my first oil change. This is the easiest car ever to change the oil! I did the change at 1K. Does anyone know why the dealer (who will do free oil changes) say every 3,750 miles, while the manual and the mymazda.com pages say every 7,500 miles? I was planning to do it on my own (mobil 1) every 3,500.

Does anyone know the reasoning behind the difference?

Thanks,
Bart
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 Old 07-20-2010, 04:34 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by bart1313 View Post
Just did my first oil change. This is the easiest car ever to change the oil! I did the change at 1K. Does anyone know why the dealer (who will do free oil changes) say every 3,750 miles, while the manual and the mymazda.com pages say every 7,500 miles? I was planning to do it on my own (mobil 1) every 3,500.

Does anyone know the reasoning behind the difference?

Thanks,
Bart
it doesn't matter. just do it on your schedule...3500 is better than 7500.

Originally Posted by Mizzle View Post
Shame to see you put in conventional on a car that calls for synthetic to save $15... when you're changing your stock oil 4,000+ miles earlier than necessary.

:edit:
Also, Purolator Pure One or an Amsoil filter.
Fram sucks.
conventional or synthetic...what difference is it to you?

he changed his oil...thats better than waiting till the recommended 5000miles.

Last edited by cesaros; 07-20-2010 at 04:35 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 07-20-2010, 07:21 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by Mizzle View Post
Shame to see you put in conventional on a car that calls for synthetic to save $15... when you're changing your stock oil 4,000+ miles earlier than necessary.

:edit:
Also, Purolator Pure One or an Amsoil filter.
Fram sucks.
Pretty sure that Mazda doesn't require synthetic in any of their vehicles (If I'm wrong someone correct me). I believe it is because of the rx8...but I do run synth in my car. Oh and Fram does suck...they run in bypass all the time from what I have read.

Originally Posted by bart1313 View Post
Just did my first oil change. This is the easiest car ever to change the oil! I did the change at 1K. Does anyone know why the dealer (who will do free oil changes) say every 3,750 miles, while the manual and the mymazda.com pages say every 7,500 miles? I was planning to do it on my own (mobil 1) every 3,500.

Does anyone know the reasoning behind the difference?

Thanks,
Bart
I would run the Mobil1 to 4k and then send a sample to Blackstone and have the experts tell you how long to run your oil.

Last edited by neverone99; 07-21-2010 at 07:30 AM.
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 Old 07-20-2010, 08:33 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by Mizzle View Post
Shame to see you put in conventional on a car that calls for synthetic to save $15... when you're changing your stock oil 4,000+ miles earlier than necessary.

:edit:
Also, Purolator Pure One or an Amsoil filter.
Fram sucks.
Lol, It's a Mazda not a BMW. It'll be fine.
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 Old 07-25-2010, 10:12 PM   #40
 
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Explain to me how the make affects the quality of fluid recommended to run it...


At any rate, Fram is proven garbage. I may be wrong on the synth requirement, but it's proven our engines are in love with Pennzoil Platinum so why you'd be cheap is beyond me. It's a small investment to keep the $25,000 piece of equipment you just bought running smoothly.
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