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 Old 01-16-2012, 08:30 PM   #41
 
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not to be a dick, but: How to - Balance shaft delete

Also, don't know if I can quote from other threads, but here it goes (just some info for those considering this):

Originally Posted by jsehlms View Post
I did this about a year ago and the only down side is the extra 2 qts of oil I have to buy every oil change.

Additional vibrations are minimal.
Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
everyone: 7.5 quarts?
me: yeah, just about. i spill some here and there.
everyone:
Originally Posted by Qtip View Post
Once you remove the balance shaft, are you able to re-install it and get it working like stock again?
Originally Posted by danesti View Post
Pretty sure it has to be timed as well. pain in the ass.

i traded my car in with the balance shaft out.
Originally Posted by FORZDA 1 View Post
Yeah, the timing is easy, the real difficult part is (re)setting the gear backlash if you didn't keep the OEM shims in place on the mounting feet.....
OH, and I may need a Balance shaft for my new motor (have to aske the builder). If so, are you interested in selling?
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 Old 01-16-2012, 08:38 PM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 View Post
Every one should give OP a like because if other users was doing their write up, this Forum will be an wonderfull e-library.

thumbs up for the documentation OP
HOW-TO DATABASE MS3
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 Old 01-16-2012, 09:03 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Ckmazdaspeed3 View Post
......I may need a Balance shaft for my new motor (have to aske the builder). If so, are you interested in selling?
Yes. Will sell you mine. In perfect condition.
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 Old 01-16-2012, 09:09 PM   #44
 
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Im on the brink of this being my next mod.....as if i care if my car vibrates...next mod for me is to install a ear plug dispenser
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 Old 01-16-2012, 09:37 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by FORZDA 1 View Post
Yes. Will sell you mine. In perfect condition.
cool, I'll let you know if I need it.

On a side note, my GFs son has watched you on forum wars like a million times. He loves that video and thanks to you has learned to hate civics lol (at least most civics...)
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 Old 01-17-2012, 05:41 AM   #46
 
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I know there were a couple threads about the mod. I wanted to provide a thread that detailed step by step how to do the mod in an fashion that was informative and funny. I also wanted to provide the information about motor mounts etc, and finally I wanted to see if there were differences between Gen1 and Gen2 when doing this mod because most of the stuff I found was on a Gen1 car. And I have my balance shaft if you need one

Originally Posted by Ckmazdaspeed3 View Post
not to be a dick, but: How to - Balance shaft delete












OH, and I may need a Balance shaft for my new motor (have to aske the builder). If so, are you interested in selling?
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 Old 01-18-2012, 01:17 AM   #47
 
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got any vids of how the car sounds after delete?
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 Old 01-18-2012, 05:53 AM   #48
 
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Idling it sounds the same. Driving, I do not have any vids. I'll see if I can borrow a GoPro this weekend.
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 Old 02-05-2012, 12:11 PM   #49
 
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In addition to my 2010 MS3, I have a 2004 focus with a 2.3 liter duratec...almost an MZR. I did the BSD on the focus. It was not a bad job as the OP said.

There was definitely more vibration, but it is tolerable, and I have put about 60K on the car since then without any obvious issues.

The most obvious benefit to me was throttle response, and a MUCH more rapid rev drop when of the gas and the clutch was depressed. I did not realize how much this would help quicken shifting, but it has made the car much more engaging to drive. As the MS3 does not seem to have an issue with throttle response, and the revs don't seem to hang when off throttle like they did in my focus I'm not sure those benefits would be as apparent inthis application.

A little more detail about the balance shaft assembly itself: The entire assembly is a little over 17lbs as the OP stated. Of that, there are 2 balance shafts with offset weights. They total about 6lbs of recipricating weight, but they spin at 2x the speed of the engine (hence the inertia and resistance to decreasing revs as I noticed with my focus). They create a more or less "equal and opposite" vibration to the vibration inherent in the engine to begin with. While removing them makes the car seem like it vibrates more, from a mechanical perspective, there are less vibration forces at work if you consier the engine as a whole.
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 Old 02-05-2012, 12:44 PM   #50
 
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Vids please
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 Old 02-05-2012, 03:38 PM   #51
 
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What do you want vids of? The bsd with stock PMM is imperceptible. All my vibes now are from the TMM and 88 dogbone.
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 Old 02-05-2012, 05:47 PM   #52
 
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Wanna hear the sounds that will scare the children
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 Old 02-05-2012, 05:57 PM   #53
 
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Have fun trying to reinstall the balance shaft . I hear it's next to impossible to retime the
Balance shaft to the engine .
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 Old 02-05-2012, 08:13 PM   #54
 
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LOL, they went away when I went back to the stock PMM...and I have no desire to reinstall the balance shaft. .
Originally Posted by xb2ms3 View Post
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 Old 03-14-2012, 10:22 AM   #55
 
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That seems to be considerably cheaper than the windage tray PTP sells.

PT-Performance.com

im broke as a joke so i might go the cheap route and get ptp-s bs delete and get this baffle.
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 Old 03-14-2012, 11:04 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u View Post
That seems to be considerably cheaper than the windage tray PTP sells.

PT-Performance.com

im broke as a joke so i might go the cheap route and get ptp-s bs delete and get this baffle.
The baffle is OK, but offers no oil control. The oil that gets thrown off the crank just bounces off the baffle and gets shot back up into rotating assembly. Its great for oil control under the baffle, but that kind of defeats the purpose of "oil control".

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 Old 03-14-2012, 08:18 PM   #57
 
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How exactly does the tray minimize oil buildup in the intake manifold? If i can get away with having the pan in lieu of a OCC (still dont have one) in the end im saving money. I know motor building and money go hand in hand, but im not made of it, and try to save where I can. You are more than welcome to PM if you feel your response to be "promotional" in any way. Thanks

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 Old 03-14-2012, 09:13 PM   #58
 
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It keeps oil off the crank thus reducing the parasitic drag induced when a viscous fluid hits the crankshaft. This does not keep stuff out of your intake.
Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u View Post
How exactly does the tray minimize oil buildup in the intake manifold? If i can get away with having the pan in lieu of a OCC (still dont have one) in the end im saving money. I know motor building and money go hand in hand, but im not made of it, and try to save where I can. You are more than welcome to PM if you feel your response to be "promotional" in any way. Thanks

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 Old 03-14-2012, 10:44 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u View Post
How exactly does the tray minimize oil buildup in the intake manifold? If i can get away with having the pan in lieu of a OCC (still dont have one) in the end im saving money. I know motor building and money go hand in hand, but im not made of it, and try to save where I can. You are more than welcome to PM if you feel your response to be "promotional" in any way. Thanks

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Originally Posted by mrmonk7663 View Post
It keeps oil off the crank thus reducing the parasitic drag induced when a viscous fluid hits the crankshaft. This does not keep stuff out of your intake.
Thanks guys

The windage tray can help with oil control because it will not allow the oil to get all "misty" from the crank beating up the oil via RPM. The reduction in oil mist will cut down on the amount of oil vapors inside the crank case, less vapors = less PCV oil mess = less oil inside the intake.

Will this cut down on oil vapors, yes. Will removing your BS assembly cut down on oil vapors, yes! My .02 on this matter... every MZR engine should have come without BS assembly's and with a windage tray.
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 Old 03-16-2012, 07:28 PM   #60
 
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@mrmonk7663 thanks for the how to! Just got this done today, as a FYI for future installers.. If you have your old bolts for the stock shifter weight.. They work perfect for the two bolts you need for the baffle
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 Old 03-17-2012, 10:15 AM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by xxdjfate76xx View Post
@mrmonk7663 thanks for the how to! Just got this done today, as a FYI for future installers.. If you have your old bolts for the stock shifter weight.. They work perfect for the two bolts you need for the baffle
Dontcha need 3? Well I guess you could always bring those to the hardware store to buy a comparable bolt.


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 Old 03-17-2012, 10:44 AM   #62
 
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Thanks for the write up! Great job!
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 Old 03-18-2012, 09:13 AM   #63
 
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So where does one find the other 3 bolts for the baffle?
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 Old 03-18-2012, 11:39 AM   #64
 
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I reused the stock oil bafle bolts, and then picked up a few more from the hardware store.
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 Old 03-31-2012, 08:54 AM   #65
 
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Tackling this in a few hours. I picked up a tube of black gasket because it said it met OEM spec for ford oilpans... Is this going to be an issue or should I just roll with it?
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 Old 03-31-2012, 08:58 AM   #66
 
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That will work fine. Good luck man!!!
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 Old 04-01-2012, 11:05 AM   #67
 
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Well it was more of a bitch than I thought. Lining everything up after the gasket was applied wasn't sweet... And I used the ptp plug that doesent have a securing screw. Apparently you only need to "tap" it in but I wasn't having much luck with it. I figured I wasn't ever going to put the bs back in so I just jb welded the plug in. If I had it to do again I would def get the plate+screw setup. I'm sure the jb weld is fine, but I kinda feel like its rigged....

Let it sit overnight and filled her up. Vibrations are hardly noticeable with just a rear mount, and the car almost seems more eager... Like it wants to do more with less throttle input. WOT feels the same.

Another thing... Mine had two small baffles from the factory. And I didn't need any screws, actually had one left over.

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 Old 04-01-2012, 03:26 PM   #68
 
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Glad you got it installed!!!
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 Old 04-01-2012, 05:46 PM   #69
 
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Well now my oil light flickers at idle periodically. Looks like I'll be doing it again soon.


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 Old 04-01-2012, 07:26 PM   #70
 
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You did put 7 quarts of oil in it when you refilled right? I put almost 7 quarts in mine...around 6.8...with the balance shaft gone you need more oil as the capacity increases.
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 Old 04-01-2012, 07:46 PM   #71
 
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It was actually 7 and a thing of rislone. I use the larger b3000 filter though. Where the pan meets the transfer case on the driver side there is a hard rubber strip under the engine. In cleaning off the old gasket with a razor, I got some of the strip too... I'm thinking it's either that and I didn't have enough gasket there, or the bsd fell out. Yay...


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 Old 04-01-2012, 07:47 PM   #72
 
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I hope it didn't fall out. Keep us posted.
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 Old 04-01-2012, 08:59 PM   #73
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If you have the TDC bolt/peg you can put the engine at TDC, index the gears where they meet at both the BS and crank, remove the BS, and if you later want to reinstall it just put the engine at TDC again and align the gears at index point. The TDC bolt costs about $40 at online Ford parts retailers.
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 Old 04-02-2012, 08:26 PM   #74
 
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Originally Posted by thatsmrgimp2u View Post
Well it was more of a bitch than I thought. Lining everything up after the gasket was applied wasn't sweet... And I used the ptp plug that doesent have a securing screw. Apparently you only need to "tap" it in but I wasn't having much luck with it. I figured I wasn't ever going to put the bs back in so I just jb welded the plug in. If I had it to do again I would def get the plate+screw setup. I'm sure the jb weld is fine, but I kinda feel like its rigged....
Pulled pan back off and plug wasnt in...
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 Old 04-03-2012, 01:03 AM   #75
 
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Damn, that sucks. Might want to order the other one that I used that has the retention bolt. I'm glad you figured it out though.
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 Old 04-03-2012, 04:43 AM   #76
 
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Thats what has me looking at the Sure BSD. The screw in plug looks much more solid. PTP anything hasnt really impressed me.
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 Old 04-17-2012, 12:27 AM   #77
 
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Originally Posted by mrmonk7663 View Post
Some say yes, some say no. Others say yes as long as you "time" it. Honestly, I see NO reason what so ever to ever put it back in. Car drives great. Just KEEP PMM and all will be fine.

If you put it back in, intentionally "out of time" you could get totally CRAZY with vibrations!
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 Old 04-18-2012, 09:32 PM   #78
 
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Default question on gp werks baffle kit

ok, iam new to the mazda world and sorry to bring up and old thread, but, according to gp werks the baffle kit and bsd is for the duratec turbo 2.3, unfortunally there is no such engine. there is the duratec 2.3 which is solely made by ford (aka which is in the ford focus's) and the mzr 2.3 disi turbo which is made by ford but designed by ford and mazda. so heres my question, y does it say it for one motor but say its for a speed 3 but work according to this write up in the speed series cars. honestly i dont think, its meant for our cars even it it fits.
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 Old 04-19-2012, 01:20 AM   #79
 
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Because the base design of our engine is from the 2.3 liter duratec.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 04:15 PM   #80
 
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Do you guys think this would cause uncomfortable vibrations in a MS6 with the SURE Torq R6, Dreadnaught, Juggernaut, and a TT front engine mount installed? It already vibrates a bit as is.
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