CP-E Rear Motor Mount Install

[PiKA West]

With the HKS SQV I also got the CP-E RMM. I got the 75 durometer instead of the 60 just because, since I'm used to driving miatas and your mother, I don't mind a little vibration.

I asked CP-E for a XL T-Shirt since I've been such a loyal customer and work at a large Mazda dealership but unfortuneately they were out. So I got a lanyard instead. It's a pretty cool lanyard. I like it when performance companies give you some free swag for buying all their parts. I told them I'm not gonna buy a DP from them until I can get a T-Shirt.

So, as usual, the CP-E stuff was great quality and everything was perfect.

The hardest part of the install was jacking the car up. I didn't realize how shitty the jacking points were for this car. They are super small and it's pretty hard to fit the jack and a jack stand on the same side at the same time. I actually bent a little bit of the metal behind the jacking point on one side so I did it to the other side as well so it would be even. I eventually got the car and jack stands and reach my next obstacle.

So seeing as that this was my first time underneath my car I had no clue where the freaking mount was. I looked at the pictures in the instructions and so that it was close to a wheel. I assumed it was the passenger side wheel and looked there for a very long time. Then in a stroke of genius I looked to the left side and saw it. I wish they would have made that a little more clear in the directions but thats ok.

I had never had a torque wrench before so this gave me an opportunity to buy one. A torque wrench definitely comes in handy doing this job. Some of the bolts are stuck on their pretty hard and need a little torque to get them off. It's also recommended that you torque all the bolts when you put them back on.

They say to have the jack underneath the transmission just in case it falls but it definitely wasn't necessary since all my other mounts were working perfectly and there was no chance of my tranny falling out.

Installing the mount was very easy. The hardest thing was bolting the bracket that attaches the mount to the tranny back on the tranny. I had to push the tranny towards the front of the car and then slide the bolts in once they lined up. It took a good amount of muscle to do this.

So I went with the 75 durometer instead of the 60 so I was warned that there was going to be some vibration. There is, but not that much. It vibrates a little more when I turn the car on, when the AC+motor is on and the car is not moving, and when I am going less than 30 MPH. Above 30MPH there is no vibration whatsoever. I think the vibration is actually kinda cool. My GF likes it too since it ads to the rocket ship theme.

The car definitely feels a little more planted to the ground. Launching from a dig is a lot smoother as well, especially since I was having wheel hop after putting the HKS valve on. I definitely think this will improve my 1/4 mile by putting the power to the floor more effectively. Just like the valve this was more of a foundation laying mod to prepare my car for other mods. Also, I really had no idea what to expect from a RMM so I feel like my opinion is fairly unbiased in feeling the difference.

The stock RMM looks like a POS!!!! I've had the car for like two months now and it already looked rusty and just all around like crap.

I recommend this part to everybody looking to significantly mod their MS3. The performance gain is not huge but it is noticeable and I am fairly confident that it will help a lot once I do a DP and get a new intercooler putting me rather close to 300 whp.

Pics will come soon...

[xezerax]

Haha good writeup.

[Aetherfury]

Sweet! I think I'm going to do RMM but I think I'm going to do the 60 instead because of the idle. I sit in so much traffic that I feel like I might get tired of the vibes.

I felt the same way about the jack points on this car.

[John F]

wall of text


you need pics

[phantom3]

Originally Posted by PiKA West I had never had a torque wrench before so this gave me an opportunity to buy one. A torque wrench definitely comes in handy doing this job. Some of the bolts are stuck on their pretty hard and need a little torque to get them off. It's also recommended that you torque all the bolts when you put them back on...

I hope you ment "breaker bar" and not torque wrench...

Torque Wrench


Breaker Bar

[PiKA West]

I love your sig AetherFury that is hilarious. And I did say torque wrench and meant it. What's wrong with using a torque wrench?

Pics will come in like an hour for the HKS valve but I don't have any of the RMM.

[phantom3]

A torque wrench is for applying torque to a blot or nut while a breaker bar is for breaking them loose. If you drop your breaker bar, no worries. Drop your torque wrench how ever and you could be out a couple bucks.

Will a torque wrench remove a frozen bolt... yes... is that what it was designed to do... no.

[PiKA West]

Thanks for the tip. I was lazy and didn't want to get up to get a breaker bar so I just went for the biggest, heaviest, torqueiest thing I had near me. Also lucky for me I found a torque wrench for 20 bucks so its not too much money. I will be careful though.

[Dino]

You do know that a torque wrench works when you put bolts back on, not off. The breaker bar is for more leverage to untorque (yeah I said it) hard to loosen bolts.

[phantom3]

Originally Posted by Dino You do know that a torque wrench works when you put bolts back on, not off. The breaker bar is for more leverage to untorque (yeah I said it) hard to loosen bolts.

Your 4 posts too late champ...

[wankular]

Since this has turned into a torque wrench debate - would I need to recalculate anything if I'm using an adapter or extension with my torque wrench?

Back on topic - Pika, nice writeup. Did you jack up both sides at the same time or do one side then the other?

[PiKA West]

One side then the other

[DLWILSON]

Using a crows foot can add more than the intended torque, depending on its set angle. If your just using one extension your good to go. Check out this for more info.

Link

They talk about several scenario's regarding adapters and required equations.

[JS + MS3]

Please guys.. just get the 75 duro instead of 60.

I was in Pika's car once, and it really didn't vibrate much. really.

[pharoh]

I just ordered my CP-E RMM from SU, but went with the 60 Duro. I sometimes get stuck in bumper to bumper traffic and I know the vibes will probably frustrate me. I love how smooth the car is now but I hate the clutch engagment feel. Aside from the wife's ride, I've only owned manual transmission cars and the MS3's the first car that sometimes makes me feel like a n00b modulating first gear from a stop. There's too much "give" before it fully engages and its sometimes deceiving when trying to modulate in bumper-to-bumper traffic. The RMM will remedy that. Too bad they're back-ordered until next week.

[Breakdown81]

vibes will decrease after break in, usually around 100 miles or so. Also at that point its good to put the car up again and re-torque everything just to make sure its locked in.

p.s. also if you used the torque wrench to unbolt anything, you might as well throw it out because the calibration is fucked. Plus i wouldn't trust load numbers on a 20 dollar torque wrench to begin with. The other thing you need to make sure is that the torque wrench you got is a ft/lbs torque wrench and not an in/lbs torque wrench. You are running the bolts out of spec if you bought an in/lbs torque wrench.

[JS + MS3]

Yeah, it's back ordered til next wednesday or thursday. I'm going to order them as soon as they are in stock next week. I still think I should just go with 75.

[serium]

Mark said they wont be in until Tuesday so till then... but with 25% off i couldnt resist!

[shorts465]

Originally Posted by serium Mark said they wont be in until Tuesday so till then... but with 25% off i couldnt resist!

Wait, are you saying you got the motor mount for 25% off, cause the website price doesn't reflex a discount like a lot of the other parts do. I was pissed cause that was the only part I really wanted/could afford right now and it was still listed at full price.

[BROXN]

Originally Posted by pharoh I just ordered my CP-E RMM from SU, but went with the 60 Duro. I sometimes get stuck in bumper to bumper traffic and I know the vibes will probably frustrate me. I love how smooth the car is now but I hate the clutch engagment feel. Aside from the wife's ride, I've only owned manual transmission cars and the MS3's the first car that sometimes makes me feel like a n00b modulating first gear from a stop. There's too much "give" before it fully engages and its sometimes deceiving when trying to modulate in bumper-to-bumper traffic. The RMM will remedy that. Too bad they're back-ordered until next week.

lol.. I have only ever owned standards and this car seriously frustrates me, First gear is a beotch to find. will this mod fix this?
cheers,
Greg

[R.MS3]

Originally Posted by BROXN lol.. I have only ever owned standards and this car seriously frustrates me, First gear is a beotch to find. will this mod fix this? cheers, Greg

My guess that would be mostly when you stop at a red light or something? Otherwise you wouldn't be using it that much anyway.

The RMM does help. You should also get some shifter bushings. It will feel much better.

[Vater]

The clutch does take a long time to 'get'. I'm used to it now, after 6 months and 10000 miles, although I still don't feel quite as comfortable engaging 1st gear as I did in my other manual cars.

[jeebus]

speaking of torque wrenches...I have a broken one that won't hold anything below 200ft-lbs, so I actually have it set up and max and use it as a breaker bar. But I have a working torque wrench for actually putting things together.....

[MPS83]

Nice write up

[Jujiro_Prodigy_31]

Originally Posted by phantom3 I hope you ment "breaker bar" and not torque wrench...

i used an impact gun to remove them lol ; )

but the torque wrench to tighten them back down

[shingojr]

any after install picture?

[PiKA West]

Theres nothing to really see. Its just a big chunk of metal underneath the car that you will never see again unless you have it on a lift. If you see a picture of one then you've seen them all.

[liquoredonlife]

Good video by Corksport for folks who've never gotten below their car and have trouble locating their rear motor mount.

YouTube - Mazda3 Motor Mount Removal

YouTube - Mazda3 Motor Mount Removal

[PiKA West]

very helpful. I had problems locating it at first lol

[JS + MS3]

that is a great video.... omg

[NYShooterGuy]

Being new to not only this forum but also car mods, I'm probably going to get a lot of forum members annoyed with my following question. I read the write up and understand that the after marked mod improved stiffness to the acceleration, but my question is this: is this a what many would consider an excellent cost-to-performance upgrade?

[speed_freak]

i just got my trz dogbone installed and love the car so much more. less tq steer and wheel hop. puts more of the power that is already there to the pavement. deff worth the money

[zxhoya]

Originally Posted by NYShooterGuy Being new to not only this forum but also car mods, I'm probably going to get a lot of forum members annoyed with my following question. I read the write up and understand that the after marked mod improved stiffness to the acceleration, but my question is this: is this a what many would consider an excellent cost-to-performance upgrade?

ABSOLUTELY!!! It's an overall ride and performance mod, it really ties the engine to the entire vehicle, it's how it should have come from the factory.

[Speed3eak]

Originally Posted by NYShooterGuy Being new to not only this forum but also car mods, I'm probably going to get a lot of forum members annoyed with my following question. I read the write up and understand that the after marked mod improved stiffness to the acceleration, but my question is this: is this a what many would consider an excellent cost-to-performance upgrade?

Well, it was for me. Relatively cheap and helps with wheel hop and power delivery. I'd still like to see a dyno comparison though, between the stock motor mount and this one. It's noticeable, more so on launches than while cruising, so I don't know if it would show up on a 4th gear pull on a dyno.

edit: I'll put it like this: you won't regret it.

[JS + MS3]

NYShooterGuy, yes! it is a great cost to performance upgrade! I love mineeeee

[79BlueSC]

Im really torn between the 60 an 75 right now...it is hard for me to tell what the difference will be...ahhh what to do.

Opinions? I commute 100 miles round trip all highway to work, no real traffic. What would be best?

Another question...what is the stock Duro? Just so I know what that feels like to maybe compare?

[PapaSmurf]

mines in the mail, went with 60 duro. Hopefully ill be able to powershift 1st to 2nd without hearing a loud bang anymore

[thejackel16]

to what torque do we torque those bolts back to for the rmm install?


(edit, i have not bought one yet, but i assume it is in the install instructions?)

[cesaros]

Originally Posted by thejackel16 to what torque do we torque those bolts back to for the rmm install? (edit, i have not bought one yet, but i assume it is in the install instructions?)

tight as fuck.

use your big boy muscles...they will tell you when its TAF.

Originally Posted by 79BlueSC Im really torn between the 60 an 75 right now...it is hard for me to tell what the difference will be...ahhh what to do. Opinions? I commute 100 miles round trip all highway to work, no real traffic. What would be best? Another question...what is the stock Duro? Just so I know what that feels like to maybe compare?

get 75. don't be that guy who mods his car to be a great DD (thats what stock is for).

I have a TRZ delrin mount, and it only vibes when rolling from a stop...my engine is also stiff as shit, and it will never break. And this is my family car/ DD.

[Intellekt]

It's in the install instructions, but if I remember correctly it's 70 ft/lbs and make sure you tighten in the specified pattern.