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 Old 10-28-2013, 09:19 AM   #161
 
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Originally Posted by El_Diablo View Post
Genjuan and gen2 can both use the straight coupler instead of the 45* coupler. All you need to do is rotate the verticle pipe in line with the turbo outlet pipe. Either way you'll need to remove the tip pipe but then again, it only takes about a minute to do.
So if you can go with the straight coupler, why would you opt for the 45*? Is there any benefit? The straight coupler method looks to be the better way to set it up.
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 Old 10-28-2013, 09:28 AM   #162
 
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The 45* coupler comes with the kit. You have to purchase a straight coupler. The benefit would be a more direct shot to the intercooler and slightly shorter plumbing. Not a huge deal but I also prefer how it looks and the access it gives to the dipstick.
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 Old 10-28-2013, 09:48 AM   #163
 
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Originally Posted by El_Diablo View Post
You have to purchase a straight coupler.
I think that is the main reason people don't. Looks like the winning option though. That 45* bend was one of the things I was worried about with the kit but if the straight through option is available with an additional coupler, that makes this a pretty good piping option.
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 Old 11-03-2013, 09:04 PM   #164
 
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thanks to the op and everybody who posted on this one. I wanted to go with CP-E or Cobb for a FMIC but the money is crazy for what you get. I saw the CX setup and it looks like solid piping with a crap core and bpv. Seriously considering the PG piping kit and a good core. Should be a similar outcome for a lot less $$$.
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 Old 11-04-2013, 04:10 AM   #165
 
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Originally Posted by Darthspeed3 View Post
thanks to the op and everybody who posted on this one. I wanted to go with CP-E or Cobb for a FMIC but the money is crazy for what you get. I saw the CX setup and it looks like solid piping with a crap core and bpv. Seriously considering the PG piping kit and a good core. Should be a similar outcome for a lot less $$$.
lol. the BPV or BOV you get in the cxracing kit isnt all that bad. i ran it for a few months. has a nice sound to it due to the air port thats on the back. only thing is its like a 50/50 BPV. so you will have to be tuned for it or have a GA. i loved it. but i just got a great deal on a greddy, thats why i no longer run it.
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 Old 11-18-2013, 09:29 AM   #166
 
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Nice bumper
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 Old 12-12-2013, 05:11 PM   #167
 
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Going to be honest with you, I just switched to the CX kit from my CP-E TMIC and I love this thing!
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 Old 12-13-2013, 06:00 AM   #168
 
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Originally Posted by Jonathanhair07 View Post
lol. the BPV or BOV you get in the cxracing kit isnt all that bad. i ran it for a few months. has a nice sound to it due to the air port thats on the back. only thing is its like a 50/50 BPV. so you will have to be tuned for it or have a GA. i loved it. but i just got a great deal on a greddy, thats why i no longer run it.
The "air port" is a fitting that was meant to serve as a potential secondary diaphragm influence, kind of like a two port wastegate. It's it not a 50/50 setup (unless you got a BOV that looks different in the pix I posted in the previous page) because the fitting is barely 1/8" while the actual return port is 1", which would make it 88/12 at best lol. The sound that you hear is not from that fitting, or mostly not from it, because I have it capped off and the sound is still there, it's the air that's rushing past the BOV valve itself. If you have the large port plumbed into the TIP, you wouldn't have to re-tune even if you didn't cap it the 1/8" fitting, but i prefer it capped, for more stable cruise conditions.
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 Old 12-13-2013, 03:23 PM   #169
 
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Originally Posted by BAT-man View Post
The "air port" is a fitting that was meant to serve as a potential secondary diaphragm influence, kind of like a two port wastegate. It's it not a 50/50 setup (unless you got a BOV that looks different in the pix I posted in the previous page) because the fitting is barely 1/8" while the actual return port is 1", which would make it 88/12 at best lol. The sound that you hear is not from that fitting, or mostly not from it, because I have it capped off and the sound is still there, it's the air that's rushing past the BOV valve itself. If you have the large port plumbed into the TIP, you wouldn't have to re-tune even if you didn't cap it the 1/8" fitting, but i prefer it capped, for more stable cruise conditions.
i stand corrected. thanks but i didnt really mean that it was a actual 50/50. i thought i was just designed to release some air. i did call cx racing on the right way to run it. they said just leave it as is. but i no longer run it. ended up getting a greddy bov
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 Old 12-14-2013, 11:43 AM   #170
 
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Good write up
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 Old 09-04-2014, 03:44 PM   #171
 
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Yes I know this thread is old as shit but does anyone know if the stock bpv hose is long enough to work with the cxracing piping kit?
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 Old 09-04-2014, 04:03 PM   #172
 
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Originally Posted by blake0521 View Post
Yes I know this thread is old as shit but does anyone know if the stock bpv hose is long enough to work with the cxracing piping kit?
It will BARELY reach... Get an aftermarket one

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 Old 09-04-2014, 05:12 PM   #173
 
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Thanks for the tip!
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 Old 09-11-2014, 07:38 AM   #174
 
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If you use the OEM bov on the CX bov flange, it will leak past the two inner bov holes. The oem bov has a large diamond shape seal, which doesnt seal againts the two inner flange bov holes. Epoxy putty the holes or similar if you use the oem bov.
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 Old 09-11-2014, 01:38 PM   #175
 
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What about the cobb bpv?
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 Old 11-04-2014, 09:01 AM   #176
 
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Was looking to install mine last night. Everything looked good, set it up and took off the bumper, until it came to bracing the core. The brace I received makes 0 sense. There are 3 pre-drilled holes on the top/bottom of the core, but the brace does not accommodate ANY of them. It's like this piece was just thrown in there. Am i supposed to use this as scrap and bend my own braces/drill holes?

Just curious if anyone else is having this problem... Something to note that I bought this from a guy on Craigslist, though it seemed to be in the original packaging and pretty much untouched.
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 Old 12-16-2014, 02:06 PM   #177
 
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Is it worth the upgrade from a streetunit top mount to the cx front? I like the idea of having the core at the front of the car but feel I would have a better quality core with the streetunit on top. Also, with the GEN 2, has anyone modified the grill so the intercooler is easier to see. I would want to show that shit off.
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 Old 12-16-2014, 03:57 PM   #178
 
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Originally Posted by speed3black87 View Post
Is it worth the upgrade from a streetunit top mount to the cx front? I like the idea of having the core at the front of the car but feel I would have a better quality core with the streetunit on top. Also, with the GEN 2, has anyone modified the grill so the intercooler is easier to see. I would want to show that shit off.
Yes, many people have modified the smile, search around and you will find many pics.
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 Old 12-16-2014, 04:11 PM   #179
 
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Save your self some time and get a nice fmic if you go that route. I am already upgrading my set up after having it for 2 k miles because it won't support my power goals. Spend the money once so you don't waste money twice.
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 Old 12-16-2014, 04:23 PM   #180
 
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There are nicer options out there, but you can pair cx piping with a treadstone core for about half of what those nicer kits cost.

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 Old 12-16-2014, 04:51 PM   #181
 
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The CX racing supports upto 400 ponies does it not? I would be happy to be anywhere near that ( planning on staying k04 ) I just find on the hot days the top mount really shows it's faults. Seeing the price point on the CX racing it's a bargain if it will out perform my current set up. Plus it cleans up the engine bay nicely. Fuck it, I will order it up. I can always snag a tr8 core in the future.
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 Old 12-16-2014, 05:54 PM   #182
 
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I am moving from the tr6 with cx piping to jbr piping and a tr8l because my build should be around 500 plus whp with the pte5858. If you are stock block even if you go bt the tr6 should work. It's rated at 400 hp which IMO is a lot on a stock block. Then again I have only been in the game for a bit.
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Next up: tune.
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 Old 12-17-2014, 04:06 AM   #183
 
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Stock block will hold 400, you just have to keep the torque at bay in the low to midrange. Its all in the tune.

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 Old 04-21-2015, 02:43 PM   #184
 
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@OP

Hey man, I noticed your couplers and clamps are not the ones provided with the CX kit. Could you please provide the sizes for these? The ones I got with my CX kit are terrible and i'm leaking boost ><
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 Old 03-03-2016, 10:15 PM   #185
 
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Sorry in advance for the reincarnation of the post lol. Great writeup! helped me install my fmic! But did anyone else not be able to put the plastic undershield that goes directly under the fmic back on? The main one is on, but the front "lip" one does not fit anymore. Is this just me, or is this normal?
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 Old 03-13-2016, 11:41 PM   #186
 
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@JTMS3;
I used your write up for my install and went great! thank you
@BAT-man;

the pictures you have posted with your write up were not available. was wondering if you had them somewhere else?
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 Old 05-17-2016, 05:38 PM   #187
 
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Originally Posted by 2010ms4-1 View Post
@JTMS3;
I used your write up for my install and went great! thank you
@BAT-man;

the pictures you have posted with your write up were not available. was wondering if you had them somewhere else?
How are you liking it so far? I'm considering when the time comes going FMIC.
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 Old 05-22-2016, 10:01 PM   #188
 
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Originally Posted by Breezynator View Post
How are you liking it so far? I'm considering when the time comes going FMIC.

it's not too bad but recently my car at 77k fell victim to the smoking turbo fad. before this though it seemed to help BATS pretty good.
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