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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The dealer I purchased my 2010 speed 3 from provides free oil changes for life, however, they tell me they use Mobil 1 non-synthetic. They also tell me that they do not recomend synthetic oil. I really wanted to take advantage of the free oil changes, but I have read a lot of horror stories on here about dealers overfilling and other issues. Every other source I have found recomends synthetic oil in turbocharged applications. So, here are my questions. 1. Should I have the dealer do my oil changes? 2. If yes, should I provide the synthetic oil or let them use the dealer oil? (I have confirmed I can provide my own oil and they will use it) 3. If I provide my own oil, should I watch them do my oil changes to ensure they use the oil I provided? I know the answers to these questions are all opinions, but I am at a loss. I don't mind changing my own oil, however, right now it is 25 degrees out and there is snow everywhere. I do not have a garage big enough to do oil changes in (single car detached). Also, I was looking forward to not paying for oil changes, but I do not want to sacrifice the reliability of my car. Also, if the dealer does the changes, then I have proof of the maintenance records in case of warranty issues. (I purchased the 6year 100k extended warranty) If you plan to post saying "search the forums," just don't post. I searched and don't have time to read all the threads that are returned having nothing to do with what I am looking for. Thanks in advance.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I will have a different opinion than most of the people on here, but it depends on your dealer to me. I trust my dealer because I have used them for Mazdas I have owned since 1998. They are a "mazdaspeed" dealer which means some of their techs are trained on the Speeds. I have been using the same mechanic and they let me observe him if I want, but I trust him after all these years. He says if you change your oil every 3,000 miles you can use non-synthetic. I personally use Synthetic, but you are almost eliminating the cost savings of "free" oil changes by doing that. If I were you (and the dealership is a Mazdaspeed dealer) I would buy my own synthetic, let them change it for "free" and the first few times ask to talk to the mechanic or observe to make sure they are doing it correctly. You should buy 6 quarts and they will have oil left in the last quart, so always ask them for the extra when they are done. This will put your mind at ease knowing they used your oil since they are not just going to pour it down a drain in the back to put crappy oil in ![]() Also, don't worry about not changing your own oil. I never do it because I just don't have the time for it.
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| THE NJ NATOR CAUCASIAN ![]() Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: New Jersey
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Same question I had... I don't have free oil changes and have done all my oil changes in the past (previous cars) but I also bought an extended warranty and would like to have proof of maintenance. I called one local dealer and they claim the 2010 Speed3 uses 5-20 synth blend. WTF? The manual and the oil cap say 5-30. Luckily they told me I can bring my own full-synth oil. Mostly I plan to get an intake/TIP/BPV and don't want the dealer to flag me when I roll in for routine maintenance. TECHNICALLY they shouldn't/can't do that but I've heard stories to the contrary. Anyone know of any "mod-friendly" dealerships around central NJ that would not have a cow if I roll in for maintenance work with those mods? Only "decent" one I've heard of was Hamilton Mazda but they are like an hour away from me. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i'd take advantage of the oil changes but always double check their work before leaving. if you have any special requests for the vehicle i recommend talking to the tech first hand. not just the clerk at the desk |
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| KR....i haz it ![]() Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Philadelphia, PA
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not recommending synthetic is a croc of shit. They either a) Dont know what the fuck they are talking about, or b) Are cheap and dont want to give out synthetic on free oil changes. Find a different dealer, or demand proof that synthetic is not recommended. Most people here are changing oil between 3-4000 miles on SYNTHETIC. Our oil gets diluted with gas very quickly, which synthetic is more resistant to dilution.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The other thing they said is I can bring it in for the first change whenever I want (though they reccomend 5000 miles). Then every 5000 after that. If I bring in my own synthetic, is 5000 miles too long between changes? I am now at 1000 miles and plan to get the first change asap.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Like you said, everyone's response will be their opinion. After a bad experience with the first dealer oil change on our 99 Protege, I decided that I would change the oil on our Mazdas and I have done so ever since (I have pretty much done it on everything we've owned since the eighties but decided to try the dealer when we bought the Protege). Like you, I don't have a garage to work in so I just have to tough it out if the weather is uncooperative. I have changed some in 30 degree temps. Of course, the one big advantage to doing it yourself is that you control the quality control and you don't have to worry about "beating the clock". IMO, quality synthetic is a must for these direct injection motors. I am going to use either Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra for this car along with a good filter (Wix) with changes every 4000 miles or so. I am going to keep good records of what I do in case warranty issues arise. If you are going to let the dealer do it, remember that they usually don't put their best techs doing oil changes. I would carry them you oil of choice and stand right there and watch them while they do it. If they won't let you watch, why should you trust them to do it?
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From what I have seen, they recommend synthetic if you don't get it changed every 3,000 miles. To be safe I use synthetic and change every 3,000 anyway =) It's not that much more $$$. @Pharoh- The 5w20 dealer should be avoided I would think! Sounds like they aren't all there haha
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
He also said if I wanted to do 3000 mile intervals I would have to pay for every other one. It is clear that I was not talking to the service manager, so I might have to make a trip to the dealer and speak with the service manager in person. I have always had good luck with this dealer in the past when I had warranty/TSB issues with my previous 3. Since it is the dealer where I bought the car, it is the only one where I get free oil changes. Also, it is a Mazdaspeed authorized dealer.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Tech - Sort of Fast some stuff 2008 Triumph Daytona 675 - Actually Fast GB Racing Slider Kit - DDM 35w 6000k HID - TechSpec Snakeskins Last edited by letzleta; 02-17-2010 at 02:34 PM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score See thats wierd and stupid at the same time.. cause i had a N/A 3 before my three and ya they recommended it every 5k but of course ive always changed mine at 3k... when i got my speed they told me that the 5k miles was for the N/A vehicles cause they dont work as hard as the speeds, and that the speed is recommended every 3k.. I do the dealer oil changes cause i get free right now, and i go in every 3k and they do it.. So i think every dealer varies and have them show documentation that speeds require by mazda every 5k... or take ur own docuamentation untill they prove u wrong that a turbo with non synthetic is every 3k. Cause a N/A 3 and a speed3 are not they same in power and quility and efficiency. The oil works harder in the turbos. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you don't have free oil changes, save your money and get it changed somewhere else every 3k. Just remember to save your receipts. I don't think synthetic is necessary. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I got the free oil changes as well, and plan on demanding synthetic. I am doing a (small) road trip this weekend which will put me just over 1000 miles, and I will probably try to get the oil changed next week. Synthetic is definitely the way to go with forced induction, and hopefully my dealership isn't stupid and tries to give me the run around. Will post back if I have any issues/concerns. But synthetic is my vote, if possible. If using non synthetic, I agree that you should just change it quicker (2,500-3,000 miles). |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I found a fellow forum member who uses the same dealer I do and he said that they have had no problem with him bringing in synthetic oil to use for the oil changes. He also gave me the name of the tech he uses, so I will be contacting him directly. I am tempted to have them change it with their non synthetic oil, then have a UOA done on it after 5000 miles to help me determine whether or not synthetic will make much of a difference. I have no problem using synthetic, however, the non synthetic is free. So, if I have a UOA done and it comes back good (all within spec) is there any other reason to use synthetic? For example, something that a UOA wouldn't tell me. (maybe turbo coking??) Also, I am not trying to be cheap here, I would just like to take advantage of the free services if possible... My Triumph uses oil that is ~$10 per quart, sure I could use cheaper oil but I would rather be safe than sorry since that is what the manual calls for!
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| I'm an F-18, bro. ![]() Join Date: Jul 2008
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Mazda owners manual recommends 7.5k intervals for schedule I. Just do it before that. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok, first oil change done. Because the manual doesnt say synthetic oil, the free oil changes do not cover it. Lame! Because I am doing a road trip soon, I chose to pay for the cost diference of synthetic, but in the future I will bring my own in if possible, or just use their regular recommended oil. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well i think your dealership is a bunch of asshats, reasion? ALL mobil 1 is fully synthetic (regluar mobil ie clean high mileage is a blend) I would say go to another dealer or somewhere you can trust. Btw full syn is the way to go in all turbos, ask any 96-2004 SAAB owner why.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
Mobil 1 Website
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have always used Castrol GTX, been doing so since my Rotary days and from the advice of a long time mechanic/race driver (Rotary Connection, Lexington, KY, now Japanese Autoworks). I still use it, and now I am using Castrol Edge Full SYN. They say it's guaranteed to 15,000 miles on a normal non performance or high load car, I still change it at 3,000-3,500...but nice to know its made for way higher. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I use my dealer due to the "paper trail" aspect since it is a leased car. Whether they actually know what day of the week it is is another question. The building was built a long time ago and has never been touched. If I was actually paying for real work I would rather go to JiffyLube - it's that bad!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I agree with several of the above. I got free oil changes for life from my dealer, and I am NOT about to turn that down. Fortunately, my dealer service department has proven themselves to me time and time again, so I trust them. It also provides me with a paper trail of oil changes, and since I still have a dealer warranty until next February, that ensures they WON'T say that I didn't do the required maintenance on time. Plus, I can have them look the car over for other things. The other day, they told me my power steering fluid (which is ATF fluid in these cars) was discoloring a little and needed changed soon. $125 through them, but they know I'll do stuff like that myself (it'll cost me about $10 to do myself), and yet they still inform me. They checked my brakes for me when Just Brakes wanted to charge me $700 for work on them, and saved me most of that by telling me what was REALLY wrong. So I guess it comes down to trusting the dealer service guys. If you do, then let them change the oil. If not, do it yourself, but KEEP THE RECEIPTS! Detailed records!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score pay the extra dollar to get the dealership to change it if u want but i dont trust anyone working on my cars. they dont respect them how i do. people could give 2 craps about your stuff. last time i got a cv axel changed cause i didnt have time to do it the tards got dirt all in my floor board and side of door when they got out. pissed me off
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score As previously stated, we get FREE oil changes from the dealer. This is the only reason I even consider it.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I don't get free oil changes through my dealer :/ They said because mine is a high performance motor they don't do the free changes because it requires synthetic oil (they use non-synthetic for regular cars apparently). Although, I did ask what type of oil they would use if I were to bring the car in and they said 5w30 Penzoil semi-synthetic, and since it is a used car that is what's in it now; but I plan to switch to Rotella or Castrol full synthetic when I do my next change anyway. Ya'll are lucky to get free changes, but even if I did, I would still much rather do it myself so I know it's done right. I don't usually have the time to drive half-hour up to the dealer and wait for it to get done anyhow.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Wow...all kinds of replies from the different dealers. I stopped by the service department before I left the dealership, right after buying it, to ask them a few questions about this exact thing. The service manager told me every 5,000 miles for oil changes and get this, it would void my warranty if I used synthetic. I asked why and he just said that's how Mazda handles oil changes. I called BS on the guy and called MazdaUSA from the dealership. MazdaUSA says it doesn't void the warranty necessarily, but they recommend conventional oil. I asked why and they said simply because that is what they used for all their testing and development on the engine. They know it's characteristics opposed to the synthetics they did not use. So, I asked what they meant by using synthetics doesn't necessarily void the warranty...they replied with just make sure you keep all your receipts for your maintenance, including your oil changes you do on your own. I've used synthetic on all my cars and motorcycles (Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40) for the last 8-10 years or so and I've been very happy with the results. I plan on continuing this practice, while saving all receipts and maintenance logs. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The person at MazdaUSA must have been new or something, since the official Mazda stance on fixing certain issues was to switch all the Speeds to Synthetic. They used to say only conventional and then switched it up.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well that further strengthens my view on using synthetic. Thanks. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Go talk to bob at bobistheoilguy.com. He'll know what to do! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score everyone who keeps saying that their dealer "uses conventional oil" must not know YOU CAN REQUEST SYNTHETIC. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I use the Mobil 1 Racing 4T in my motorcycle as well because Triumph recommends it, but man that stuff is expensive!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score lol yeah join the club im going to see sometime this week how much 6 quarts of penzoil plat is gonna cost me...
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![]() | | #31 | ![]() |
| KR....i haz it ![]() Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Philadelphia, PA
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| Not Ranked : 0 score go to walmart and buy the big jugs. its cheaper than mobil
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![]() | | #32 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score THis is a post from a Forum in my area !! Originally Posted by MajesticBlueNTO One other oil that has received good reviews on msf and bitog is German Castrol 0W30. Also, I have good word that Mazda is now using Petro-Canada Duron-E 5W40 for the DISI in the CX-7. That's not to say that I've used and recommend this oil, what it is, if you look up Duron-E, is that Mazda is now using a Heavy Duty Engine Oil for diesel engines in the DISI. Where this relates to what Fobio wrote is that the Rotella T6 5w40 (which we currently use) is also a HDEO made primarily for diesels; which also relates to what I mentioned to Fobio before we started using Rotella T6 -- that the Direct Injection gas engine has more in common with a diesel than a port-injection gas engine. But "why a diesel oil"? The DISI is far more tougher on oil than the regular, port-injected 2.0L/2.3L. Coupled with Mazda's poor PCV design and the fuel dilution, and you get the requirement that the oil you put in your MS3 has to put up with a f*(king harsh environment. This harsh environment shears down the oil in between oil changes -- your 5w30 is now closer to a 20weight; use 5w20 and it's down to a 10wt with the viscosity approaching that of water. You want something that is shear stable and HDEO's provide that protection -- Rotella is used on diesels that go millions of miles before a rebuild. The other issue is that oils with a low flash point will coke up the valves quicker. A HDEO diesel oil, and a quality synthetic like those Fobio listed, will typically have a higher flash point that will limit the coking of the valves. What I'll be doing is using Rotella T6 for Spring, Summer, Fall and German Castrol 0w30 for winter. All this information is contained within TM3 and out there on MSF and BITOG; and Fobio and I have done our research and put it to the test (him moreso than me as I've only had my MS3 for 10,000 miles). Bottom line, don't cheap out on the most critical component in the DISI (oil) and, on the other hand, don't try to extend the oil change interval because you're running some expensive synthetic. This is my Response You are 100% right as I had warranty coverage to resolve smoking issue at W.O.T they used Amsoil 15/40 synthetic oil which is a diesel oil back just before May 24 weekend. I went to pick up extra bottle of this Amsoil at dealer who was suppose to order it and it was the 5w/40 synthetic the petro can stuff not sure or can remember if it was Duron-E but probably was! What you write makes total sense why else Mazda Canada use this 15/40 heavy duty synthetic diesel oil to resolve issues?? This amsoil is rate to -44 Celsius |
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![]() | | #33 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Diesel oil....? |
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![]() | | #34 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My dealer also uses a 5W-20??? We only get the first three oil changes free??? They recommend changing it every 5K. I had my first oil change at 1K and the tech (certified Mazdaspeed) said to change it every 3K and rotate the tires each oil change. HTH.
__________________ 2010 MS3 Liquid Silver: Cobb DP/Turbo Back Exhaust, Cobb Accessport, Cobb RMM, CP-e TMIC, Forge Diverter Valve, KMD HPFP Internals, CS Intake & TIP, ITV22 Colder Spark Plugs, Powder Coated Valve Cover, Damond OCC w/ VTA, JBR Shifter Bushings, Bosch 3 BAR Map Sensor and PNP Harness, JBR EGR Delete FlowTuned |
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![]() | | #35 | ![]() |
| Big Titty Sucker ![]() Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: NY
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The base 3's use 20, you really want to use 30. The 20 will not hurt the engine at all, but you could get some blow by and these engines smoke/soot enough as it is. 3000 miles with synthetic is way to short. 5000 miles is the soonest you will need it done. My dealer even says 5000. Same for the tire rotations, 5000 is more then enough. Biggest thing is make sure they do not over fill the oil. The new dealer filters are smaller then the factory ones and the car will not fit 6 full quarts anymore. |
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![]() | | #36 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm with ^^^ 5000mi on synthetic is ok. If u wanna do it old school, 3000mi, it's your money and time. If you're absolutely paranoid, change your oil filter every 3000mi and oil every 6kmi. I drove vw gti 1.8T for about 70000mi changing oil every 10000mi :] and it still runs great (aside electrical problems, it's got 100000mi now). I know 10000mi is bit extreme on T engine, but i'm from Europe, where ppl never changed oil every 5000mi for atleast 15 years of my driving expierence, unless paranoid :]. About 13 years ago I had Toyota Celica 1.6 and changed oil every 7000mi on the car with 150000mi (back while still in Europe). I will do 5000mi on ms3, seems it's got issues :]
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![]() | | #37 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Wooh, nice thread. Good to see that every one is suffering the same problem: Can't trust dealership + diversity of opinion on type of the oil, even tho Mazda has some recommendation here. Guys don't full your self. Some one giving you free oil change is not for nothing. EITHER they'll pour bad oil in, to help break your engine very soon, so they can charge you more to fix it when the warranty is out or you'll push you to buy another new vehicle earlier, OR we are paying up front for what we don't need at the moment: Now they have the money, they run finance charges on it. They have our cash in their hand. On the top of that they can put wrong oil in the engine. And we did paid them already for the "good" work. With the free oil change we are getting, did you ask your self what will happen after the car hits 3 years/36.000 miles (some people are hiting 36.000 miles in 2 years)? So, Engine will break even sooner. They will charge even sooner and more to fix it. So, either way, we are loosing on that deal and they are getting the most out of it. So imagine what, we ALL are going through, for a simple oil change on car maintenance: uncertainty, etc, etc.... Without mentioning that a gasoline car is not a new invention (Mr. Ford, the founder, will cry in his coffin, if he could imagine, that almost a century after car invention, people are still debating on type of oil change on cars). So to be honest I will not trust my dealership any more. Always took my CX-7 to the dealership for oil change. Last time I bought my speed3, I've requested oil change on it. But they put 3W20 on a brand new speed3 with 12 miles on it. Now I'll take it from there. They'll never have the chance to make oil change on my car any more. Taking the car to the dealership for oil change is inconvenient for me any how, I allways need to wake up earlier, and wait at the dealership for 1 hour, in order to pick up the car. Now with 3 cars in my garage, I'm saving on the long run to do oil change on all those cars by my self. It'll take me 30 minutes for an oil change. BTW an other recommendation> When taking your car to the dealership for tire rotations, MAKE SURE TO ASK EXPLICITLY FOR CROSS TIRES ROTATION. Usually they always do the front <--> rear rotation. Unless you requested it and even tho ALL car manufacturers recommend, in their user handbook cross tires rotation. The result is a sharply increase of the tire wears. Today I'm 36 years old. I remember the time I was a teen (14-15 years old) , I used to read my mom's car owner manual. And I still remember the pics of the tires rotation from that book with the cross arows, for moving the right rear tires to the front left, the left rear ones to the front right. So 20 years today I still have to tell people to do cross rotation on tires. The future will tell us. Wait and see... With that said, Now, who will be out there, shopping for new tires after the premature wear due to bad rotation technique? Not the dealership any way. À bon Entendeur Salut!
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![]() | | #38 | ![]() |
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![]() | | #39 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score buying a used 2010 speed 3 tomorrow am, So what oil is recommended? the owner of the car use a synthetic blend...
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![]() | | #40 | ![]() |
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Pennzoil Ultra Eneos Sustina Mobil 1 Shell Helix Ultra Rotella T6 Motul Total Ineo Honestly, any of these will do. I dont think it will make that much of a difference. I only tried ENEOS and Pennzoil Ultra. Just dont go wild and choose something like FRAM 5w-30. But if you have time to shop around then I do recommend you getting ENEOS only if you could find it. If u dont have the time then any of these will do. | |
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