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 Old 05-22-2013, 11:24 AM   #1
 
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Default How to Install HPFP Internals 1080p HD Video

Hello everyone. I thought I would make a video of the install of my Autotech internals. This video was created to help guide others who are seeking to do the same modifications.

Video is a good guide but not perfect. This is something quick and dirty that I threw together to help people out. If you find something wrong with it (I'm sure some of you will) please let me know and I'll try to make a correction asap. If I didn't call something by it proper name or I was mumbling through something please don't bug me about it I was exhausted. This video was done late at night after a long day at work...

FYI:
Everything you see in the video is all I did for my install and everything is working perfectly. I've monitored my pressures every day since and it's holding like a champ (1780-1850psi).

Sorry for the length I wanted to be as detailed as possible so any person who want to do it can. Also, excuse the ads.

Update 12/27/2013 7000 miles later:

I have not touched these since they went in and they still perform the same way they did when new. I've followed the same guide with 3 separate sets of Autotechs and all work perfect.


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 Old 05-22-2013, 11:31 AM   #2
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Im sure this will help others.. Im moving this to the how-to section
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 Old 05-22-2013, 11:33 AM   #3
 
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@Steve6;
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 Old 05-22-2013, 11:41 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
Im sure this will help others.. Im moving this to the how-to section
Cool thanks!
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 Old 05-22-2013, 01:26 PM   #5
 
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Interesting technique, you did it without removing the battery or the intake!
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 Old 05-22-2013, 01:38 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by JDMJOSH View Post
Interesting technique, you did it without removing the battery or the intake!
Yeah was kind of tough getting that bolt off at first but it got easier.
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 Old 06-05-2013, 08:57 PM   #7
 
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Thanks to the OP. One thing that I noticed on my 2013 pu is that there were two fuses labeled fuel pump, the engine did not want to run out of fuel until after I pulled the second one.
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 Old 06-05-2013, 09:34 PM   #8
 
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You sound like the guy off Superbad. Not Jonah. The other guy. Great how-to though!!
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 Old 06-05-2013, 09:46 PM   #9
 
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This might seem obvious, but for push button start - after you've re-installed the pump, push your start button twice (for accessory mode) with your foot on the gas and *off* the clutch. Tap it again to shut it off. Repeat twice. Start normally.
@rustysurfsa;'s video was the 3rd I've watched and my ass was still puckered while putting it back together (mostly due to the cam follower putting pressure on the spring and making alignment a bit feisty), but it really isn't that bad.

Thanks for the vid!
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 Old 06-05-2013, 11:47 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by gigliotti175 View Post
You sound like the guy off Superbad. Not Jonah. The other guy. Great how-to though!!
Hmmm... interesting. Never heard that before. I think i was just really tired, I filmed this late at night and after a very long day at work. Thanks for watching!
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 Old 06-06-2013, 02:15 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by JDMJOSH View Post
Interesting technique, you did it without removing the battery or the intake!
If you have an aftermarket tip and a stubby 17mm and 19mm wrench, you don't have to.

Originally Posted by biscuit003 View Post
Thanks to the OP. One thing that I noticed on my 2013 pu is that there were two fuses labeled fuel pump, the engine did not want to run out of fuel until after I pulled the second one.
I found out that pulling the fuses and letting the car run out of gas caused more fuel to spray out when I disconnected the the 2 fuel lines. I found that leaving that shit alone causes little to no fuel to pour out.

Sent via blown passenger side speakers.
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 Old 06-06-2013, 07:54 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
If you have an aftermarket tip and a stubby 17mm and 19mm wrench, you don't have to.



I found out that pulling the fuses and letting the car run out of gas caused more fuel to spray out when I disconnected the the 2 fuel lines. I found that leaving that shit alone causes little to no fuel to pour out.

Sent via blown passenger side speakers.
Yes, I didn't pull any fuses at all or let the car die when I did my internals. When we pulled the fuel lines off, not a single drop of fuel was spilled. Maybe because the car was cold and hadn't been started in a day or so?
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 Old 06-06-2013, 09:47 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by JDMJOSH View Post
Yes, I didn't pull any fuses at all or let the car die when I did my internals. When we pulled the fuel lines off, not a single drop of fuel was spilled. Maybe because the car was cold and hadn't been started in a day or so?
I did that to cars that just pulled into my garage with a hot engine, little to no fuel spilled.
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 Old 06-12-2013, 02:19 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
I did that to cars that just pulled into my garage with a hot engine, little to no fuel spilled.
That's good to know.
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 Old 12-25-2013, 03:20 PM   #15
 
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just a question, is the 100 mile break in necessary? I remember reading a thread on here and people were saying once their engine was warmed up they were hauling ass and going wot right off the bat. that being said i can understand why a break in would be necessary. im just curious cause i'm going to be doing this install this weekend
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 Old 12-25-2013, 03:50 PM   #16
 
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thanks for the video. If I keep her I'll be putting it to use.
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 Old 12-25-2013, 04:05 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by Alexander View Post
just a question, is the 100 mile break in necessary? I remember reading a thread on here and people were saying once their engine was warmed up they were hauling ass and going wot right off the bat. that being said i can understand why a break in would be necessary. im just curious cause i'm going to be doing this install this weekend
I don't believe it's necessary. I installed mine, started up and idled for a few minutes while monitoring pressure and checking for leaks, drove around for about 10 minutes at partial throttle, then did several WOT pulls. Given how fast a CDFP cycles it gets used to it's home pretty quickly.
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 Old 12-25-2013, 10:14 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by Alexander View Post
just a question, is the 100 mile break in necessary? I remember reading a thread on here and people were saying once their engine was warmed up they were hauling ass and going wot right off the bat. that being said i can understand why a break in would be necessary. im just curious cause i'm going to be doing this install this weekend
As stated above, not really. It's more to make sure that the internals are installed properly and that everything is in good working order before you start beating on it.
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 Old 12-26-2013, 09:28 AM   #19

 
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Great vid. The only thing I would caution is an impact to remove. The electric would be better than air but still the threads are delicate. and easy to booger up.
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 Old 12-26-2013, 10:08 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by mzr0818 View Post
Great vid. The only thing I would caution is an impact to remove. The electric would be better than air but still the threads are delicate. and easy to booger up.
Definitely agree with this. And sometimes the bolt isn't insanely hard to take off like it is for some people. If you don't have a breaker bar, at least take your longest ratchet to it and see if it will come off before you resort to impact tools. When I did mine, I took that bitch off with a standard 10 inch long ratchet.
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 Old 12-27-2013, 12:11 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by Alexander View Post
just a question, is the 100 mile break in necessary? I remember reading a thread on here and people were saying once their engine was warmed up they were hauling ass and going wot right off the bat. that being said i can understand why a break in would be necessary. im just curious cause i'm going to be doing this install this weekend
No, but you should always be cautious. I always make sure stuff works before I beat it up.

@hihosilver; @mzr0818;

I can see how an impact tool could hurt the threading but the Makita I was using is very weak. I think max torque on a full battery (probably half battery in the video) is 100 ft lbs. I've used it to change out 4 different sets of internals with no damage to speak of. If it were air or something a little more beefy I would have used a breaker bar instead but I know my Makita is generally more delicate with nuts and blots.
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 Old 12-27-2013, 12:25 PM   #22

 
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Originally Posted by rustysurfsa View Post
No, but you should always be cautious. I always make sure stuff works before I beat it up.

@hihosilver; @mzr0818;

I can see how an impact tool could hurt the threading but the Makita I was using is very weak. I think max torque on a full battery (probably half battery in the video) is 100 ft lbs. I've used it to change out 4 different sets of internals with no damage to speak of. If it were air or something a little more beefy I would have used a breaker bar instead but I know my Makita is generally more delicate with nuts and blots.
I used an air impact once and pulled the threads right out. Stainless steal will bind with an impact sometimes. Later I would 1 bump the impact and then take it out by hand.
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 Old 12-27-2013, 12:30 PM   #23
 
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This video greatly helped me with my install on Monday. Thanks!

EDIT: I also used a 10-inch ratchet with a deep socket and the assembly came right out.
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 Old 02-25-2014, 08:25 AM   #24
 
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 Old 10-11-2016, 12:14 PM   #25
 
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I used this video 2 days ago for my install. So far everything has been running perfectly! Next mod is going to be UR downpipe.
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