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I notice someone later on posted about cutting the yellow wire anyone know if this would work on gen 2 to eliminate the above problems I pick up a soldering iron a few weeks and looking to do this soon.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I don't think cutting the yellow wire will help with that. I believe the yellow wire is the power wire on gen1s, so you should cut the power wire for the gen2 sensor (blue).
__________________ True Red 2009 MS3 Damond Motorsports: RMM // Short Shift Plate Suspension: Koni Yellows // Swift Spec-r springs // Fatcat motorsports front bump stops // Rear Camber Arms Brakes: Hawk HPS pads // ATE Superblue fluid // Stainless Steel Brake Lines Other: CP-e Safe Seals // MattDamond shift plate // Masonvi shift knob // 3.5" WP w/recirc // RSB // IM + TB tigs // Synapse Engineering FMIC + BOV // Autotech internals Tune: hypnotic tuned Critical Stats: // 305whp/352tq // 13.34 @ 98 - Mason Dixon Dragway - 4/13/14 Titanium Gray 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 Damond Motorsports: OCC // Short shift plate // Turbo oil feed restrictor bolt Other: Autotech internals // Ebay M2 DP // Masonvi shift knob // |
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__________________ 2010 MS3 Mica Black Tech Cobb AP | JBR RMM 70 Duro | JBR SSP | CS SRI+TIP | CS Racepipe | NGK Plugs | KMD Internals CS Interior LEDs | Custom Hatch LEDs | Rear Wiper Delete | Custom "Evil M" | Red Taillights | Resonator Delete | SWAS Switch | |
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__________________ 2014 Mazda 6 Grand Touring. Bone stock... Old car: 2011 Speed 3 /w Tech Pkg. Cobb AP, CPE DP & CBE, JBR Whale Penis Intake, SSP, Motor Mount Trio, and Heavy Shift Knob /w silver vein!, Autotech internals, KSport Konrol Pro Coilovers, Corksport Interior LED's, LED Foglights and LED Rear Bumper Lights. Freek Tuned 50/50 e85 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hell, I used the walk though for the genone, so I would say this is a very good walkthough
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Does this just turn off the SWAS or can you also use it to deactivate the DSC? Do all the warning lights go off on once you restart the engine with SWAS activated or do you have to delete any errors in the ECU? Nice trick, I'm probably gonna have a go at it too soon. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score From what I understand it disables both swas and dsc...... And yes you will get a code and no you can't delete the code.... That is part of the reason I chose to make a swas switch...... Then I can selectively disable it
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Plus, after flipping the switch back to the ON mode the steering wheel icon on the dash will go out, but the traction control won't reset for about a mile or two of driving than that light will go out and your DSC will be fully operational again. No one mention this and when I finished installing I thought I did something wrong and redid it, to find out it was normal..... (this may or may not be my car specific its a 2011 no tech)
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Just an fyi...once you turn it back on the code will remain in ECU. However, you can clear it with AP and it wont return until you disable SWAS again.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Or when you restart the car and reenable it.... No codes
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| The Following User Says Thank You to burn813 For This Useful Post: | Mase (07-09-2012) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok, thanks guys. I'm gonna have to give that a try some time soon. I've been looking for some way to switch off the dsc for ages!!! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Mase you mentioned you got the lights on your tech pack. Are you suggesting you wont get all the lights if you don't have tech? I need to get this done, very helpful write-up. What kind of difference in handling have you felt with the SWAS off?
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__________________ 2014 Mazda 6 Grand Touring. Bone stock... Old car: 2011 Speed 3 /w Tech Pkg. Cobb AP, CPE DP & CBE, JBR Whale Penis Intake, SSP, Motor Mount Trio, and Heavy Shift Knob /w silver vein!, Autotech internals, KSport Konrol Pro Coilovers, Corksport Interior LED's, LED Foglights and LED Rear Bumper Lights. Freek Tuned 50/50 e85 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Finally installed a SWAS switch in my Gen2 last night. Light blue wire worked as instructed but I'm wondering if we can find the actual SWAS signal wire instead? If we can keep power we wont have any of the power steering, steering wheel radio control, etc. problems that come with cutting power. I'm assuming by toggling the signal wire the car would just assume the wheel is always straight? I might try using a multimeter to measure voltage changes across the wires in that harness as I'm turning the wheel and see what I find.
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__________________ 2014 Mazda 6 Grand Touring. Bone stock... Old car: 2011 Speed 3 /w Tech Pkg. Cobb AP, CPE DP & CBE, JBR Whale Penis Intake, SSP, Motor Mount Trio, and Heavy Shift Knob /w silver vein!, Autotech internals, KSport Konrol Pro Coilovers, Corksport Interior LED's, LED Foglights and LED Rear Bumper Lights. Freek Tuned 50/50 e85 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ah that would suck, but thanks for the tip.
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__________________ 2014 Mazda 6 Grand Touring. Bone stock... Old car: 2011 Speed 3 /w Tech Pkg. Cobb AP, CPE DP & CBE, JBR Whale Penis Intake, SSP, Motor Mount Trio, and Heavy Shift Knob /w silver vein!, Autotech internals, KSport Konrol Pro Coilovers, Corksport Interior LED's, LED Foglights and LED Rear Bumper Lights. Freek Tuned 50/50 e85 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not sure if this helps at all, this information is correct for a 2011 MS3, not sure if others will vary. To print just print in landscape instead of portrait.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Looks like by cutting the blue wire you guys are actually killing the center postition of the switch. If you can regulate 0.25-0.75 to the purple, green & yellow you should be good.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was thinking that we could pull from the 2D (pink) line, however, seeing as how its 1v or less I'm worried it may not be consistant enough. If you could pull 0.25v from that 1v or less you would be good unless it drops below 0.5v at any time. in which case your output would be out of spec. Can anyone test to verify that the 2D (pink) wire stays between .5v-1v at all times?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So I was pretty excited to follow this guide, but then I noticed a difference.. I don't know if this was pointed out but I have a 2010 genpu with no tech package and cutting the light blue wire does not disable it. Actually none of the blue wires disable it, does anyone remember if there is a How-To for non-tech genpus? *Edit, nevermind, I realized I ended up cutting the wrong clip set -_- dummy me. Last edited by Flight_SkoolSpeed; 04-04-2013 at 05:56 PM. Reason: i cut the wrong clip set |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just did this literally just now in my 2012. First off, my model year...the wire's white (actually none of the wires are the same color as the ones in your picture). Second, I have big, clumsy-ass ham hands so I had a hell of a time with that wire initially...lol. Also, you apparently have to clear the DTC code every time you hit the switch. A problem, no. Annoying, yes. Update: Got the whole thing back together and the code kept popping up over and over. Guess what.....switch fell the fuck apart. So I had to spend an extra hour undoing all the work I just did because I don't have another switch to put in there. FML.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Has anyone done this with a rocker switch that has LED? This would have 3 prong instead of 2. I'm trying to figure out the wiring.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I do, wire the two leads to the wire coming from the cars harness, wire the other to the line off the sensor
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not sure I understand. Does the switch get power from the fuse box?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It gets power from Jackie Chan. Just unplug your SWAS until you cut wires and figure it out. No SWAS=like finding out Super Size is coming back to McDonalds
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There are two "in" lines and one that goes to the "out", pigtail the two in wires together to the supply line, wire the out to the line that goes to the steering wheel.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ou should have power in and power out just like the two prong switch everyone is talking about. The third prong is a ground to make the led work. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Brc187 For This Useful Post: | pingaboo (08-29-2013) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So I'm not tapping into the fuse box to get power? I keep thinking that I do for the light on the switch. This is much easier now thanks.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No fuse panel. You have keyed power running to the swas. Your using that to power the led on the switch. And to get the led to work, like anything, you need a ground, so run a wire down along side the column or the harness to something metal under the dash and ground it. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Brc187 For This Useful Post: | pingaboo (08-29-2013) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hi all, first post here! I picked up a new to me 2010 MS3 last weekend. The first thing I noticed was the DSC kicking in at very inopportune times. Like turning left out of a gas station to jump into the middle lane, and the car decides to fall on its face! I've been lurking around the forum here for the last few days trying to read up all I could. After everything, it appears the SWAS switch mod is what I need to do. Why Mazda would make the SWAS so damn sensitive is beyond me. Seems unsafe to me! I've read a lot of conflicting info with pushing/holding DSC, and it appears that does not work on the 2010. My question is if this How To was done on a 2010? If not, what wire should I splice into? I also have the tech package. Has anyone else confirmed the problem with steering wheel controls not working after this mod? |
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__________________ 2014 Mazda 6 Grand Touring. Bone stock... Old car: 2011 Speed 3 /w Tech Pkg. Cobb AP, CPE DP & CBE, JBR Whale Penis Intake, SSP, Motor Mount Trio, and Heavy Shift Knob /w silver vein!, Autotech internals, KSport Konrol Pro Coilovers, Corksport Interior LED's, LED Foglights and LED Rear Bumper Lights. Freek Tuned 50/50 e85 | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Mase For This Useful Post: | Mauro_Penguin (09-05-2013) |
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I see now in your sig that you have a 2011. My biggest concern was that I came across a thread earlier that mentioned the white wire was the power in a 2012, idk if this is ture or not. I wanted to verify the SWAS power was on the blue wire for the 2010. I did find a thread after posting where someone with the tech package issue found they had knocked a fuse loose. I'm not to concerned with that anymore. | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Tribalic One For This Useful Post: | Mase (09-05-2013) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Done today. Light blue wire, 2010 with tech, steering wheel controls work fine. Thanks for the write-up! ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________ '10 Velocity Red Mica MS3 with Tech ![]() Performance: JBR SSP + Bushings, JBR 80a RMM, Ebay TP, CS SRI + TIP, AP (Self Tooned @18.5 PSI), MD OCC, CP-e HPFP, ITV22s, EGR delete, Forge V1 BPV, Ford Motorcraft Tranny Fluid Other: DDM 6000k HID Lows, CS LED Fogs, CS Interior/Plate LEDs, RallyArmor Flaps, 34/17 Tint, Heavy Knob, Rockford Fosgate PRIME R500-1 Amp + Alpine SWR1242D 12" Sub + PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Future/wishlist: Driver mod, CS TMIC (on the way!), CS turbo-back, H&R Coilovers Check out the Gen2 "ECU Computer Tuning" sticky on software that will trim/highlight your AP datalogs! |
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Awesome, thanks for your reply! I have no problem modding my bike on the fly, but the MS3 is my daily driver. Plan to take care of mine next weekend when I have some time | |
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__________________ '10 Velocity Red Mica MS3 with Tech ![]() Performance: JBR SSP + Bushings, JBR 80a RMM, Ebay TP, CS SRI + TIP, AP (Self Tooned @18.5 PSI), MD OCC, CP-e HPFP, ITV22s, EGR delete, Forge V1 BPV, Ford Motorcraft Tranny Fluid Other: DDM 6000k HID Lows, CS LED Fogs, CS Interior/Plate LEDs, RallyArmor Flaps, 34/17 Tint, Heavy Knob, Rockford Fosgate PRIME R500-1 Amp + Alpine SWR1242D 12" Sub + PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Future/wishlist: Driver mod, CS TMIC (on the way!), CS turbo-back, H&R Coilovers Check out the Gen2 "ECU Computer Tuning" sticky on software that will trim/highlight your AP datalogs! |
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Sent via blown passenger side speakers.
__________________ "Stockish" Black Mica 2010 MS3 Genpu Pickles Tune in progress | |
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