New JBR MAZDASPEED 3/6 & CX7 Boost Tubes & Recirculation Hoses in Stock!!
 

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James Barone Racing
Performance Aftermarket Parts & Accessories

JBR MAZDASPEED 3/6 and CX7 Boost Tubes and Recirculation Hoses

The JBR DISI Boost Tubes $60.00 Shipped (Domestic Only) International Shipping Available

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sto...S36-BTubes.JPG

LINK TO PRODUCT PAGE

The JBR DISI Boost Tubes are a direct silicone replacement for the soft rubber OEM tubes. Over time, the OEM hose will stretch, crack, show signs of deterioration and may split. Once leaks form, boost will be lost and serious engine drivability issues will occur run poorly and possibly cause the check engine light to come on.

The JBR DISI Boost Tubes are molded in the form of the original for a *direct replacement fit. They’re constructed out of five (5) layers of high performance silicone and four (4) layers of reinforcement to minimize any possible expansion under pressure and increase the spool time of the turbo. The JBR DISI Boost Tubes will easily outlast the life of the car, increase performance and add some color for a nice personalized touch.

*Does not fit the early model Mazdaspeed 6

LINK TO PRODUCT PAGE

Includes:

• 1 set of DISI Boost Tubes
• Installation instructions are available in our support section
• Shipping is free in the US & our Hassle Free Lifetime Warranty is included

The JBR DISI Bypass Valve Return Hose $35.00 Shipped (Domestic Only) International Shipping Available

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sto...MS36-RCIRC.JPG

LINK TO PRODUCT PAGE

The JBR DISI Bypass Valve Return Hose is a direct silicone replacement for the OEM return hose. In less than a year the OEM hose will show signs of deterioration and cracking. Over time, leaks will form and what once was a smooth running engine will soon decline in performance and run poorly and possibly cause the check engine light to come on.

The JBR Bypass Valve Return Hose is molded in the form of the original for a direct replacement fit. It’s constructed out of five (5) layers of high performance silicone and four (4) layers of reinforcement. The JBR Bypass Return Hose will easily outlast the life of the car, increase performance and add some color for a nice personalized touch.

LINK TO PRODUCT PAGE

Includes:

• 1 DISI Bypass Valve Return Hose
• Installation instructions are available in our support section
• Shipping is free in the US & our Hassle Free Lifetime Warranty is included

Works perfectly without any modification for cobb fmic bpv location and htp 3in inlet.

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v619/gtm153/car/?action=view&current=_MG_2611.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v619/gtm153/car/_MG_2611.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Works perfectly without any modification for cobb fmic bpv location and htp 3in inlet.

Over the weekend I installed a JBR Silicone Turbo Inlet Pipe and JBR Silicone Recirculation Tube. If I push the Recir pipe all the way onto the inlet pipe, it seems like the hose does not fit perfectly onto the BPV. Should I not push the hoses so they sit flush against one another on the TIP side?

Should be fine when the connections are flush.

Here are a few installed picks:

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sto...bes-BLK_04.JPG

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sto...TIP-RED_04.JPG

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sto...TIP-RED_05.JPG

Post a couple of good pics and I'll try and help. The TIP may also need to be rotated a bit. It's tough to say with out seeing it.

Thanks,
Jamie

Here is a picture of where the recirc hose meets the bpv. Cell phone pic, so hopefully it isn't too bad.

It's tough to tell but it appears that the hose is not rotated to the angle of the BPV. That and the intake may be pushing the TIP back towards the rear of the car a bit. I think there are some adjustments that need to be made. The tube we make is actually a wee bit longer and the exact same shape as stock so something is in need of adjustment.

Thanks,
Jamie

For a point of reference, where should the JBR logo be? I believe my hose had 1 logo and it is where the Recirc hose meets the TIH. I dont believe the TIH is being pushed back by the intake, but I will check it out.

The logo must be at the end closest to the BPV. Ignore the location in the second pic above. The logo location in that pic is a mistake. I think you may have the hose on backwards. Sorry for the confusion.

Jamie

@jbarone; Just installed your boost tubes and the hot side boost tube has a kink in it when I tighten the intercooler down. I tried change the way I had it indexed but didn't help any. I will try and get a picture of it for you when I get home.

I fixed this a while back and it is working great now. With the silicone tube I get a nice more audible feedback from the bpv as well. The whooosh sound is pure sex.

I'm having this same issue. I can't get the hot side to fit right at all. There is a gap on the bottom and the top won't go on all the way.

I have a Street Unit TMIC and it has a little lip on the lnlet of the TMIC and I think this might be part of my problem?

Here is a pic. And the only way I could get the clamp to fit was like this.

@jbarone;

I have no experience with that intercooler but it looks like the hose is not on all the way.

It isn't on all the way because it doesn't fit right. Adjusted and took a few more pics. Now it's even worse.

Anyone else have a Street Unit TMIC that can chime in on fitment?

Attachment 90427

ohh fail.

you guys didnt think these were made for the stock intercooler?

@jbarone, may be good to add an intercooler fitment disclaimer for these if you havent lol.

ahfunaki- you may wanna use a smaller width worm gear clamp on areas like that rather than a t bolt clamp.

So what does work with aftermarket intercoolers then? I wasn't aware of any special tubes?

And for the time being I'm just going to put my stock intercooler back on until I figure out the right way to go about this.

ide be looking to the manufacturer of your intercooler for that info..or SEARCH.

its the same deal with phelonic spacers on intake mani's, sometimes the hoses arent even close to fitting afterward with the new space taken up.

I would measure your length, diameter, and angle, then buy a universal silicone hose.
Silicone Hose

Silicone Hose

Mishimoto Universal Couplers: JSC Speed

You find me an upgraded TMIC manufactured by any company that requires a special sized tube for installation. Or find me a set of boost tubes that state they won't work with aftermarket TMIC's.

Looks like youve got one.

Get rid of the wide t bolt clamps on stuff like that, look at the pic...Use worm
Gear clamps.

Looking at the pic ide agree with jamie, you dont have it on properly.

There fuckin silicone boost tubes not sloppy limp dick hoses.

http://www.onpointdyno.com/?p=2676

Click the link, GO TO THE BOTTOM AND READ ABOUT why you waste your $ on fail t bolt clamps.

You should not be using those clamps and you dont have the hose on properly.

Jbr got it right.

Sasha Anis from onpoint/genesis racing-

"Forget T-bolt clamps. They are way too wide to do a good job of creating a sharp clamp on the piping and in many situations there is not enough depth from the rolled bead to the throttle body / intercooler for proper clamp engagement after the bead. This is asking for trouble! Always use high quality stainless steel clamps. Home Depot sells Trident clamps and they are fantastic"

Just your clamps alone are contributing to your headache, they are too big and wide and when you tighten them they will work the hose off the hump(ESPECIALY WITH SILICONE HOSES LIKE THAT)...like explained in the link above.

None of the bigger tmic's require the user to change the stock boost tubes. There's no reason why these shouldn't fit since they are direct replacements for OEM. I would get it further down on the outlet and see about getting the tmic inlet side further into the tube.

tappy-tap-tappytalk

To me it looks like it should slide on a little more to the TMIC. If your OEM boost tubes fit then I see no reason the JBR ones shouldn't fit. You can always take them off and compare side by side with OEM. Either way good luck and I hope it all gets sorted out.

I had to trim mine a little shorter as they were about half an inch longer on both sides of the bend when compared to the stock tube. I'm fine with having to do a little trimming as you can always remove material but never add it. From your pictures the way your tube is kinked looks like mine did but I had mine pushed all the way down on the turbo and the intercooler.

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