New Product RE-RELEASE! JBR TRU - 3.0 and 3.5” Wide Path Intake Systems!!

[Atomic41]

Somebody try a 51R battery in Canada ...

I just want to know if the 51R battery can tough our cold winter -30 to sometimes -40.

Because maybe I wanna try 51R battery tray with a 3.5'' True intake to have the best intake possible to compare to my CPE CAI right now and see how my speed3 will answer to that modification.

Thanks for your help

P.S. Do you have recommendation for a model of 51R that better than other ?

[Cevaes_64]

Relocate the battery to the trunk

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk 4

[speedaholic]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 Somebody try a 51R battery in Canada ... I just want to know if the 51R battery can tough our cold winter -30 to sometimes -40. Because maybe I wanna try 51R battery tray with a 3.5'' True intake to have the best intake possible to compare to my CPE CAI right now and see how my speed3 will answer to that modification. Thanks for your help P.S. Do you have recommendation for a model of 51R that better than other ?

A 51R has only 500cca average so I guess the only way to make sure you get the cranking power for when the oil turns to molasses is to either relocate the oem size battery (or bigger) to the trunk, or get a block heater to help out.

You are local to me so hit me up if you need a quality replacement. The company I work is a Crown Battery Industrial distributor and I'm the parts manager.

[JBR]

We ship a lot of battery boxes to Canada. The 51R batteries we use in our shop cars are no name 600 CCA batteries and we've never had a problem. Paid about $110 US a piece for them. I would assume a block heater is essential in climates that dip that low.

[Atomic41]

So i already have block heater. So if i pick a maybe 500 at least CCA 51r battery i will ok for sure to start the car without Any problem in a cold climate ?



Envoyé de mon HTC One X en utilisant Tapatalk

[JBR]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 So i already have block heater. So if i pick a maybe 500 at least CCA 51r battery i will ok for sure to start the car without Any problem in a cold climate ? Envoyé de mon HTC One X en utilisant Tapatalk

From the reading I've done, a block heater is what's being used.

[xliquidx]

Yikes -40 I need to invest in a second pair of testicles

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by xliquidx Yikes -40 I need to invest in a second pair of testicles

You mean first.....

[Atomic41]

If I go 3.5" TRU full ... can I just change the place of the ECU and past in on the fuse box ???

[JBR]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 If I go 3.5" TRU full ... can I just change the place of the ECU and past in on the fuse box ???

Yes! This is often done.

Starting at step 11 of the instructions for our old aluminum intakes will show you how to do just that!

Thanks,
Jamie

[Atomic41]

Is it possible to have some impression from user that drive with JBR Tru intake 3 or 3.5" versus their older setup SRI or CAI.

How you like it, driving impression, power, sound, etc

[mituc]

Because the intake diameter is larger the intake should be quieter, or at least have a more diminished sound of that suction sound. This is good or not so good depending on what kind of person you are.
Personally I am pleased with the sound of my current intake setup, but on Monday... BUT ON MOONNDAAAYYY..... we will fit the holy mighty whale penis onto the car and I'll tell you more.




First impressions after putting everything together on the floor:
- the shape of the whole intake shows a lot of attention to detail and care for its shape AND for preserving the 3" diameter;
- a very pleasant surprise was that in the package there's a clamp with a mounting ear that you can put there to use the factory mounting tab that's near the fuel pump;
- I wish the hose for the EBCS bleeding was a bit longer. Most of the people who purchase the 4" turbo coupler version will have an aftermarket EBCS which will not be in the factory location;
- the air filter has about the same base diameter as the K&N filter I'm using now with the CObb intake and CS CAI Box. So there's a good chance that I will be able to keep the CAI Box on the car since the MAF housing allows for a decent amount of adjusting;
- basically in the package you will find the maximum number of clamps that you may need;
- the silicone is very stiff and should not have too much play while it will still be able to vibrate a bit to absorb any vibrations from the engine bay/turbo/whatever. But it's stiff enough that you can beat your kids with it and still fit it on the car no problem after that.
- A few years ago when I opened the box with the Autotech internals I first thought the Edge guys played a joke on me and sent me some collection die cast car. Then I found the internals in and they were looking like some jewels. Well, the MAF housing was wrapped in a piece of hard paper but when my fingers finally came in contact with it I had the same impression. This MAF housing looks simply beautiful.

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by mituc Because the intake diameter is larger the intake should be quieter, or at least have a more diminished sound of that suction sound. This is good or not so good depending on what kind of person you are. Personally I am pleased with the sound of my current intake setup, but on Monday... BUT ON MOONNDAAAYYY..... we will fit the holy mighty whale penis onto the car and I'll tell you more. First impressions after putting everything together on the floor: - the shape of the whole intake shows a lot of attention to detail and care for its shape AND for preserving the 3" diameter; - a very pleasant surprise was that in the package there's a clamp with a mounting ear that you can put there to use the factory mounting tab that's near the fuel pump; - I wish the hose for the EBCS bleeding was a bit longer. Most of the people who purchase the 4" turbo coupler version will have an aftermarket EBCS which will not be in the factory location; - the air filter has about the same base diameter as the K&N filter I'm using now with the CObb intake and CS CAI Box. So there's a good chance that I will be able to keep the CAI Box on the car since the MAF housing allows for a decent amount of adjusting; - basically in the package you will find the maximum number of clamps that you may need; - the silicone is very stiff and should not have too much play while it will still be able to vibrate a bit to absorb any vibrations from the engine bay/turbo/whatever. But it's stiff enough that you can beat your kids with it and still fit it on the car no problem after that. - A few years ago when I opened the box with the Autotech internals I first thought the Edge guys played a joke on me and sent me some collection die cast car. Then I found the internals in and they were looking like some jewels. Well, the MAF housing was wrapped in a piece of hard paper but when my fingers finally came in contact with it I had the same impression. This MAF housing looks simply beautiful.

Thanks

keep me update please !

[igve2shtz]

I also haven't installed my Tru-3.0" OEM Turbo intake yet. But playing with it in the garage, I agree with mituc with the quality of the product. The MAF is gorgeous with a nice knurl to the edges to have something for the silicone and clamp to grab onto. And speaking of clamps, JBR provided 3 T-bolt clamps for the connections on the turbo and the MAF. After having 3 different intakes on my car and 2 different TIP's, this is the first one that has sent T-bolt clamps. Another nice touch.

[mituc]

Here's the JBR Tru 3" intake fitted with all OEM parts: OEM battery tray, OEM ECU covers, ...and the CorkSport Air Box for the Cobb SRI!

I threw the battery tray in place with the ECU still bolted to it. The tray is a bit kinked but I could screw the bolts nuts in. WIN!



I thought I was lucky, so I king of forced my luck with the tools I had. the CS air box seemed to be almost perfectly aligned with the MAF location.
We added a rubber grommet (a strut mount from a Smart ForFour) which happened to have the right inner diameter. The idea was to prevent the MAF housing from vibrating against the air box. If it's also sealing it, even better. Epic WIN!



After some time of screwing around with the air box and the air filter we test fit it. Mega WIN!! I was feeling like drinking a beer, even though I drink like 2-3 beers a year.





Time to throw the battery in and put everything together! Galactic WIN!



Job done with all parts. ...out of superlatives... no, wait: Romanian WIN!



The intake seems to be a bit kinked after the PCV feed but not by much. The air box is pushing the MAF housing against the softer part of that silicone tube, but when I will work in that area again I know what I have do to.
Also, the air filter has a larger diameter in the smaller cone area so the top of the air box is also pushing that a bit down. But that's rubber and will kink just fine.

The Stratified MAF cal is -3.1% - +1.6% in the range I logged, just like my old MAF cal for the Cobb SRI. i didn't push the car today for a WOT log because the laptop battery was almost done. Thank you @Lex and @Mike@Stratified for your work on this.

[RACER_X]

will my car be ok w/ the 3.0 and internals w/ a cobb OTS stage 1 tune, while i'm waiting on a custom tune.

[JBR]

Originally Posted by RACER_X will my car be ok w/ the 3.0 and internals w/ a cobb OTS stage 1 tune, while i'm waiting on a custom tune.

No, it will run lean. Use the COBB ots, but, apply the MAF cal for the 3.0 which can be found in stratified's section.

[Mazdaspeed3KHP]

Dammit I thought this was the aluminum intake release. Still haven't decided if I'm going to go with the 3.0 or 3.5. It will be mated with a gt3071r. John at Tork convinced me to go iwg even tho I was originally going to get the ewg kit. Power wise im only shooting for 350-360 on pump gas.

Do you think the 3.5 will cause more boost creep issues? I don't plan to port the wg. I'm leaning towards the 3.5 just for future purposes if I want to build the motor.

[mituc]

I made 350whp on a Cobb SRI with the GTX3071. So IMHO the Tru3" should be good for at least that considering that your gen2 will be able to work with a bit more timing advance on the same gas quality. I think the boost creep issues are generated more by the exhaust side, not intake.

However, keep in mind that 340-350whp on pump gas is close to the limit of what the stock internals can take in therms of heat. I'm telling you that because I managed to hurt my motor this spring (also raised the rev limit to 7k which I think may be the main culprit) and now with the lower compression it won't go past 335-340whp.
So I recommend using a WMI kit and aim for even more (360-370whp without raising the maximum torque/load values in the mid range, but keeping the torque at similar values as much as possible in the rev range, like past 5.5k where it really matters for making power).

[Mazdaspeed3KHP]

Originally Posted by mituc I made 350whp on a Cobb SRI with the GTX3071. So IMHO the Tru3" should be good for at least that considering that your gen2 will be able to work with a bit more timing advance on the same gas quality. I think the boost creep issues are generated more by the exhaust side, not intake. However, keep in mind that 340-350whp on pump gas is close to the limit of what the stock internals can take in therms of heat. I'm telling you that because I managed to hurt my motor this spring (also raised the rev limit to 7k which I think may be the main culprit) and now with the lower compression it won't go past 335-340whp. So I recommend using a WMI kit and aim for even more (360-370whp without raising the maximum torque/load values in the mid range, but keeping the torque at similar values as much as possible in the rev range, like past 5.5k where it really matters for making power).

Thanks for sharing that information. I was never really into meth injection until I started reading more. I might lower my current goal to 340 max until I plan to get a WMI kit. I think your right going with the 3.0 instead.

This will also save me from having to buy a new battery box. I can spend the extra money on a meth kit.

[RACER_X]

ok, got on my 3.0 WP this weekend.

everything went well EXCEPT i couldn;t figure out where to place the mounting bracket (step 20 in your install guide) on the TIP part of the intake.

otherwise, nice piece of kit, makes the car sound like a jet airplane now when the turbo spools up

and very nice HP improvement w/ my @stratified tune

[JBR]

Originally Posted by RACER_X ok, got on my 3.0 WP this weekend. everything went well EXCEPT i couldn;t figure out where to place the mounting bracket (step 20 in your install guide) on the TIP part of the intake. otherwise, nice piece of kit, makes the car sound like a jet airplane now when the turbo spools up and very nice HP improvement w/ my @stratified tune

I'm glad you're seeing nice HP gains from the intake!!

Here's a better picture of where the mounting clamp goes.

[RACER_X]

Oh, I was thinking it bolted to some nut on the firewall, now I have a idea where it goes.

Thanks

[JBR]

Originally Posted by RACER_X Oh, I was thinking it bolted to some nut on the firewall, now I have a idea where it goes. Thanks

Yeah, it secures the intake to the same spot as the OEM TIP.

-Jamie

[RACER_X]

So the next dummy like me can see and final product w the condom