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| JAMES BARONE RACING JBR is a leading manufacturer of high-quality aftermarket parts for the Mazda community. We take pride in our reputation for providing the highest-quality performance products at the best values, and we back up that reputation with outstanding customer service and free shipping. We are committed to the Mazda platform and we actively partner with other members of the community in our selection, design, and testing of new products to make sure they meet their needs. We control every step in the engineering and fabrication process to ensure the highest standards of workmanship. The result is a line of products whose performance and reliability have been proven both on the street and on the track. Visit us at jamesbaroneracing.com |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I installed the JBR Stage 2 OCC on Christmas Eve by following the v2 instructions for the check valve positioning. Today, I checked it after 950 miles of driving mostly highway miles and absolutely nothing came out of the catch can. I have 17550 miles on the car. I searched around and saw that some folks had issues with other catch cans draining when the weather is cold, but I am in CA and it was 70 degrees today. Should I be worried? Btw, the catch can feels like an extremely high quality product, just like all the other JBR stuff I have installed!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have the same question as I've now driven about 4k miles with it installed and have had no oil drain out when I opened it up. Is the routing correct on the instructions? I also have stage 2 with check valve |
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Just glanced at the weather out there for the past month or so. Your average lows were around the 45 degree area, while the dew points were in the mid to low 30's. So it's not even coming close to condensation. | ||
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The arrow is pointing toward your throttle body on the check valve? Double check, I've seen a dry catch can due to backward installation. The one I recently helped drain needed a love tap to get the flow started, but once it did it let loose about 1oz of condensation that was pretty clear, and then about 2oz of yellow snot came out at progressively faster drainage rates. That was from 3k miles or less afaik.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Tried draining after driving around for a bit to get everything warmed up. Nothing came out, not even after tapping. My next oil change is in over 1k miles, so I'll try again then. If nothing drains out, I gotta buy me some ramps.
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... or you can borrow my race ramps, which are much easier to use. I even have the extensions if you decide to drop your car a bit.
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Which length of race ramps do you have? I might buy some for long term stuff. Would these be the appropriate size? I also own these: Edit: Why do things cost so much money? Now you have me really wanting a new tmic, race pipe, and tune...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @kolosok17, I have the Race Ramps RR-XT-2 67-Inch XT 2-Piece Race Ramps and the Race Ramps RR-EX-14 67" Xtenders. You are welcome to borrow them any time you need them.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Bah, you have issues getting on the 67" one without the extender? Jesus.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you are not sure if your OCC is plumbed right, you can check it by turning the car on, and while it is idling, open the OCC valve, put your finger over the OCC drain opening. It should suck your finger.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just takes time depending on driving/weather conditions. I didn't get much of anything until I put around 15k miles and 3 seasons on my OCC. Then I got like 10oz of nasty.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Just checked for suction from the drain with the engine on and yup - it's there. If the check valve is facing the wrong way, what could happen? I don't think it is but will verify.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Took about 6k miles (two oil changes) to see anything in my JBR OCC. Don't worry about it
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| Not Ranked : 0 score OP, also make sure there is no sag in the lines to and fro the OCC. That's what helped me.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I think there's some sag, but very little. I used the full length of the provided hose. I'm going to wait a couple thousand more miles and if nothing is in the can, I'll try shortening the lines to reduce sag to 0. Thanks!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you used the full length of the hoses there's definitely some sagging. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I still have some sag and I took off way more that the instructions recommended. Next time I get under it I'm gonna recheck the valve and cut some hose off |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score We include a fair amount of extra hose for various configurations. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Hmm, it seemed to be a fairly smooth curve when I routed it. I'll make sure to check again. How much would you estimate I would need to cut off for a genpu? Is there an easy way to test against sagging?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So i checked finally and found I installed the check valve backwards like a retard. switched it back around. Would this cause any drivability issues? car running rich? |
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but I know someone that ran his for almost 30k miles backward to no ill effect, compression test was 190 across the board on a 65K mile motor. He expected to have to re-tune for the added metered air, but it wasn't significant at all, and once the check valve was corrected it was confirmed nothing had gummed up in the lines off the block and it drained fine. One anecdotal situation might not be the norm, just watch your fuel trims.
__________________ Manley forged long block, secret snail, manifolds, and 2gal E85 tune running like a champ - about to dial in a lot of meth and see what we've got. 13.10@117.1 full weight DD no prep 1/4 (BNR S3 / E85) | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have one of these that will be installed this weekend at the same time I do an oil change. Going to have to double check the instructions and so forth. I will say I have some rhino ramps, used them last night and they suck just on concrete, I fixed the problem and made it even better by using a large piece of carpeting to go under both of them at the same time. Was so much easier, plus was nice and comfy and not cold while I was under the car checking the RSB installation.
__________________ 2013 Liquid Silver MazdaSpeed Installed Parts:: HTP 3" SRI, Autotech Internals, CP-e Catless DP, CP-e TMIC, FreekTuned, H&R Springs, JBR RSB, Cobb AP V3, JBR 88 RMM, JBR Battery Box, EGR Delete, various CorkSport styling parts, and other things Not Installed Parts:: JBR Stage 2 OCC Future Parts:: JBR 80 PMM/TSM, Coilovers, and much more [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ya my fuel trims adjusted slightly after switching it around but nothing crazy |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I checked my catch can for the first time the other day after ~400 miles and nothing came out. I rechecked everything and it was all good. I guess I'll just wait and recheck it when I change the oil.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Chicken soup, anyone? ![]() Finally, a drain after 1500 miles.
__________________ 2012 CWP Non-Tech MS3 JBR SSB, Mazda Rear Bumper Guards, JBR Mud Flaps, JBR 88a RMM, Mazda All-Weather Floor Mats, COBB AP V2B, JBR RSB with Tru-Torsion brackets, Autotech Internals, CorkSport SRI+TIP, JBR Stage 2 OCC, Mazda Rear Cargo Tray, Stratified S-OTS+ Stage 1 Map, NATOR NorCal Sticker |
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