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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:29 AM   #1
 
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Default Sup with JBR RMM vibes...

Another guy and myself have been getting really bad vibes from our JBR RMM's lately (Plus I've seen a few threads about it on the forum in the past). It's mostly at idle and after driving for a bit - but you can really feel it around near the peddles, it's like metal to metal contact directly below your feet - as if something was vibrating against the metal frame directly below your feet.

I re-torque'd the main bolt the other day for the first time after installing it a few months back, but it was doing it before that as well.

I'm a small dude, and torque'ing that main bolt to 120 ft pd's/tq was intense haha, so I thought I'd ask if you guys know the exact fix prior to me just messing around with it?

Don't get me wrong, I have loved this RMM since day 1, but I don't want these vibes anymore D:

EDIT: Thank you for any info / advice you can give!
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:32 AM   #2
 
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itll die down, or you'll learn to love it.

I bet I'm smaller. outside my pants i mean.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:44 AM   #3
 
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Its been there for a bit now, the "die down" vibes already died down, this is a new and bad vibe methinks :/

Im 5'10 and 130 pounds by the way.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 11:01 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by infeKteDx View Post
Its been there for a bit now, the "die down" vibes already died down, this is a new and bad vibe methinks :/

Im 5'10 and 130 pounds by the way.
u sound like a Power bottom.?!?!?
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:49 AM   #5
 
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christ really? i'm 6 inches shorter and 10 pounds lighter.

I just let the wrench holding the nut back up against the car while I'm tightening the bolt with a shop rag on it so it wouldnt bend anything if that's even possible.

Then just had both my hands on my 1/2" torque on the long bolt and it was pretty simple.

If you had a hard time, this might help when you're re-torquing later, just don't get lazy about jacking up your car to sufficient height to work under it.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 06:44 AM   #6
 
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I'm 6'3 250 and have a history of breaking bolts and tools by over-torquing

which mount is it? my dogbone gives me almost no vibrations, the only ones I notice are the very low rpm cabin shakers, and I can feel the engine's vibration in my clutch pedal (very light, not bent rod vibe).
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 Old 04-20-2012, 10:07 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by infeKteDx View Post
I'm a small dude, and torque'ing that main bolt to 120 ft pd's/tq was intense haha, so I thought I'd ask if you guys know the exact fix prior to me just messing around with it?
Which bolt on your RMM did you torque to 120 ft/lbs? None of them should be close to that....70 ft/lbs MAX.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 11:50 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Crarrs View Post
Which bolt on your RMM did you torque to 120 ft/lbs? None of them should be close to that....70 ft/lbs MAX.
Yeah I thought you only go up to 70 ft/lb... at least that's what the instructions say
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 Old 04-20-2012, 12:51 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Keko View Post
Yeah I thought you only go up to 70 ft/lb... at least that's what the instructions say
Same thing, 120 ft/lb seem a lot.
70 ft/lb from JBR instructions.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 10:12 AM   #10
 
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Are the vibes that are bothering you @ idle? If so, you can drastically reduce idle vibes by raising idle speed to 900 - 1,000 rpm.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 11:46 AM   #11
 
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most of the posts complaining of this said it was resolved by loosening all the bolts and reinstalling in the correct order, which is in the shop manual and maybe on jamie's instructions..
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 Old 04-20-2012, 11:48 AM   #12
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Just raise idle to 900 RPM.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:10 PM   #13
 
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Only thing from JBR that goes to 120 ft/lbs is the main bolt for the TMM.

88 RMM Manual- All bolts at 70 ft/lbs
http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:33 PM   #14
 
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its different for the non-dogbone RMM

The long bolt needs to be torqued to 120 like he says

http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf

unless that's a typo, and it's why my RMM is at right now too then haha
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:40 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by breakfstincluded View Post
its different for the non-dogbone RMM

The long bolt needs to be torqued to 120 like he says

http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf

unless that's a typo, and it's why my RMM is at right now too then haha
Damn I missed that. I even checked that pdf before I posted I guess I looked too quickly :/
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:38 PM   #16
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I went to 110 to finally get it to stay tight, sounds about right.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:39 PM   #17
 
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I just checked too, my main is torqued at 120 ft/lb. Doing my oil change, so why not check while it's up in the air.

And the instructions does say that too
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:42 PM   #18
 
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Jamie said he was going to change the install guide for the billet rmm to say 70 ft lbs for the bushing bolt. That subframe nut is weak.

OP - if the vibes come back shortly after torqueing down the bushing (main) bolt, it could be the subframe nut starting to fail. This is what happened to mine when I had the dogbone. On the 4th or 5th time tightening down the bolt, the thread came out in one piece.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:57 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by bigriver View Post
Jamie said he was going to change the install guide for the billet rmm to say 70 ft lbs for the bushing bolt. That subframe nut is weak.

OP - if the vibes come back shortly after torqueing down the bushing (main) bolt, it could be the subframe nut starting to fail. This is what happened to mine when I had the dogbone. On the 4th or 5th time tightening down the bolt, the thread came out in one piece.
The PDF shows the bolt attaching the rmm to the transmission bracket to be 120ft/lbs...not the bushing bolt. The bushing bolt in the PDF is listed at the correct 70ft/lbs.

I guess it all depends on what OP is calling the "main bolt".

Last edited by Pendarus; 04-20-2012 at 02:02 PM. Reason: i r gurd speeler
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:46 PM   #20
 
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shit really? does that mean those of us that followed the original instructions will have to un-torque it?

or will the if it's not broken don't fix it rule apply 70 is a huge change from 120 lol
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:54 PM   #21
 
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Glad someone cleared up the 120 ft pd/tq for everyone...I knew I wasn't crazy.

I guess I'll loosen them all one of these days and retorque.

The issue definitely isn't IDLE RPM....car idles fine, but like I said, it feels like metal to metal contact down near my feet, imagine someone taking a metal pipe and vibing it really fast against the frame of the car right where your feet sit, that's what it feels like. Only does it after driving for a little, and at idle. My buddy who was having the same problem pinpointed it to JBR RMM.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 01:55 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by breakfstincluded View Post
shit really? does that mean those of us that followed the original instructions will have to un-torque it?

or will the if it's not broken don't fix it rule apply 70 is a huge change from 120 lol
If it aint broke I would leave it alone. That bolt shouldnt back out. Right before the nut failed, i marked the bolt head and the subframe to see if the bolt was moving. The vibes came back and when I checked the bolt, both of the marks were lined up so the bolt did not move at all.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 02:00 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by infeKteDx View Post
Glad someone cleared up the 120 ft pd/tq for everyone...I knew I wasn't crazy.

I guess I'll loosen them all one of these days and retorque.

The issue definitely isn't IDLE RPM....car idles fine, but like I said, it feels like metal to metal contact down near my feet, imagine someone taking a metal pipe and vibing it really fast against the frame of the car right where your feet sit, that's what it feels like. Only does it after driving for a little, and at idle. My buddy who was having the same problem pinpointed it to JBR RMM.
The urethane bushing has a metal collar in the center. Maybe its the bolt vibrating inside the metal collar. I dont know why that would happen but there is a small gap inside the collar. But it would only move if the rmm was not torqued down. Idk.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 02:02 PM   #24
 
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Sorry for the confusion, didn't know OP had Billet instead of the Molly.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 10:24 PM   #25
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70ft/lbs for the bushing bolt 120ft/lbs for the bolt that goes through the transmission bracket.
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 Old 04-20-2012, 10:44 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by jbarone View Post
70ft/lbs for the bushing bolt 120ft/lbs for the bolt that goes through the transmission bracket.
Same for the molly?
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 Old 04-21-2012, 09:07 AM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH View Post
Same for the molly?
70 for all bolts.
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 Old 04-21-2012, 09:40 AM   #28
 
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The only strange vibration I get is when I coast. Sometimes, it vibrates like a plastic wheel on a spoke.

What I mean by that is like when you spin a wheel on a lawnmower. It'll spin fine for a second, then it like wobbles/resonates all crazy.

Does that make sense?

@jbarone - so the bolt/nut you provide should be 120? What about on the dogbone - same?
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 Old 04-21-2012, 11:37 AM   #29
 
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Loctite ftw
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 Old 04-29-2012, 05:14 PM   #30
 
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I just installed my JBR RMM and TMM today.. Got a weird knocking sound when clutch is engaged, it goes away after I disengage the clutch but it comes back after I engage it again.... Thoughts?
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 Old 04-29-2012, 05:16 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by rikyrick87 View Post
I just installed my JBR RMM and TMM today.. Got a weird knocking sound when clutch is engaged, it goes away after I disengage the clutch but it comes back after I engage it again.... Thoughts?
You follow the instructions as far as torque'ing them to the correct FT/Pounds? in the correct order? If so, then give it time to break in, wait like 100 miles and re torque to the correct specifications, see how it sounds then. Need some break in time mang!

Update for my initial post: I loosened all the bolts, retorque'd in the correct order, at the correct FT/Pounds, and the vibrating has gone away for now.

Thanks for all the input guys.
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 Old 04-29-2012, 06:17 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by rikyrick87 View Post
I just installed my JBR RMM and TMM today.. Got a weird knocking sound when clutch is engaged, it goes away after I disengage the clutch but it comes back after I engage it again.... Thoughts?
Sounds to me like your transmission talking to you. The noises from the trans are normal.
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 Old 04-29-2012, 06:31 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by jbarone View Post
Sounds to me like your transmission talking to you. The noises from the trans are normal.
Jamie
Yeah that's what i figured..can't hear it too much outside the car but it's loud inside, as long as it's normal I'm not worried about it. The mounts def give the car a more (i hate to use this term but..) Race car.. feel to it, i loves it.
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 Old 04-29-2012, 05:45 PM   #34
 
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Yea man... did everything per the instructions... Gonna allow for break in time the vibes I know are normal, just wasn't sure of the knocking noise
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 Old 11-15-2012, 10:01 AM   #35
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Are you guys using the Blue or Red Loctite?
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 Old 11-15-2012, 12:59 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by Ace View Post
Are you guys using the Blue or Red Loctite?
purple.

Originally Posted by Mizzle View Post
The only strange vibration I get is when I coast. Sometimes, it vibrates like a plastic wheel on a spoke.

What I mean by that is like when you spin a wheel on a lawnmower. It'll spin fine for a second, then it like wobbles/resonates all crazy.

Does that make sense?
i get that. i also got it when i had my trz dogbone in. i think it is just the trans hitting some kind of resonant freq. it freaked me out at first. now i loves it.
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 Old 11-15-2012, 12:31 PM   #37
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Good thread bump...........
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