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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Another guy and myself have been getting really bad vibes from our JBR RMM's lately (Plus I've seen a few threads about it on the forum in the past). It's mostly at idle and after driving for a bit - but you can really feel it around near the peddles, it's like metal to metal contact directly below your feet - as if something was vibrating against the metal frame directly below your feet. I re-torque'd the main bolt the other day for the first time after installing it a few months back, but it was doing it before that as well. I'm a small dude, and torque'ing that main bolt to 120 ft pd's/tq was intense haha, so I thought I'd ask if you guys know the exact fix prior to me just messing around with it? Don't get me wrong, I have loved this RMM since day 1, but I don't want these vibes anymore D: EDIT: Thank you for any info / advice you can give! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score itll die down, or you'll learn to love it. I bet I'm smaller. outside my pants i mean.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Its been there for a bit now, the "die down" vibes already died down, this is a new and bad vibe methinks :/ Im 5'10 and 130 pounds by the way. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score christ really? i'm 6 inches shorter and 10 pounds lighter. I just let the wrench holding the nut back up against the car while I'm tightening the bolt with a shop rag on it so it wouldnt bend anything if that's even possible. Then just had both my hands on my 1/2" torque on the long bolt and it was pretty simple. If you had a hard time, this might help when you're re-torquing later, just don't get lazy about jacking up your car to sufficient height to work under it.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm 6'3 250 and have a history of breaking bolts and tools by over-torquing which mount is it? my dogbone gives me almost no vibrations, the only ones I notice are the very low rpm cabin shakers, and I can feel the engine's vibration in my clutch pedal (very light, not bent rod vibe).
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Which bolt on your RMM did you torque to 120 ft/lbs? None of them should be close to that....70 ft/lbs MAX.
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70 ft/lb from JBR instructions.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Are the vibes that are bothering you @ idle? If so, you can drastically reduce idle vibes by raising idle speed to 900 - 1,000 rpm. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score most of the posts complaining of this said it was resolved by loosening all the bolts and reinstalling in the correct order, which is in the shop manual and maybe on jamie's instructions..
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just raise idle to 900 RPM.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Only thing from JBR that goes to 120 ft/lbs is the main bolt for the TMM. 88 RMM Manual- All bolts at 70 ft/lbs http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf
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| Not Ranked : 0 score its different for the non-dogbone RMM The long bolt needs to be torqued to 120 like he says http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf unless that's a typo, and it's why my RMM is at right now too then haha
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I went to 110 to finally get it to stay tight, sounds about right.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just checked too, my main is torqued at 120 ft/lb. Doing my oil change, so why not check while it's up in the air. And the instructions does say that too
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Jamie said he was going to change the install guide for the billet rmm to say 70 ft lbs for the bushing bolt. That subframe nut is weak. OP - if the vibes come back shortly after torqueing down the bushing (main) bolt, it could be the subframe nut starting to fail. This is what happened to mine when I had the dogbone. On the 4th or 5th time tightening down the bolt, the thread came out in one piece.
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I guess it all depends on what OP is calling the "main bolt". Last edited by Pendarus; 04-20-2012 at 02:02 PM. Reason: i r gurd speeler | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score shit really? does that mean those of us that followed the original instructions will have to un-torque it? or will the if it's not broken don't fix it rule apply 70 is a huge change from 120 lol
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Glad someone cleared up the 120 ft pd/tq for everyone...I knew I wasn't crazy. I guess I'll loosen them all one of these days and retorque. The issue definitely isn't IDLE RPM....car idles fine, but like I said, it feels like metal to metal contact down near my feet, imagine someone taking a metal pipe and vibing it really fast against the frame of the car right where your feet sit, that's what it feels like. Only does it after driving for a little, and at idle. My buddy who was having the same problem pinpointed it to JBR RMM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If it aint broke I would leave it alone. That bolt shouldnt back out. Right before the nut failed, i marked the bolt head and the subframe to see if the bolt was moving. The vibes came back and when I checked the bolt, both of the marks were lined up so the bolt did not move at all.
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__________________ 2012 mazdaspeed 3, black mica w/ tech package, AFE drop in dry filter, Autotech internals and CS rmm inserts. . | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry for the confusion, didn't know OP had Billet instead of the Molly.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 70ft/lbs for the bushing bolt 120ft/lbs for the bolt that goes through the transmission bracket. |
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__________________ 2012 mazdaspeed 3, black mica w/ tech package, AFE drop in dry filter, Autotech internals and CS rmm inserts. . |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The only strange vibration I get is when I coast. Sometimes, it vibrates like a plastic wheel on a spoke. What I mean by that is like when you spin a wheel on a lawnmower. It'll spin fine for a second, then it like wobbles/resonates all crazy. Does that make sense? @jbarone - so the bolt/nut you provide should be 120? What about on the dogbone - same? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just installed my JBR RMM and TMM today.. Got a weird knocking sound when clutch is engaged, it goes away after I disengage the clutch but it comes back after I engage it again.... Thoughts?
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Update for my initial post: I loosened all the bolts, retorque'd in the correct order, at the correct FT/Pounds, and the vibrating has gone away for now. Thanks for all the input guys. | |
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Jamie | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah that's what i figured..can't hear it too much outside the car but it's loud inside, as long as it's normal I'm not worried about it. The mounts def give the car a more (i hate to use this term but..) Race car.. feel to it, i loves it.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yea man... did everything per the instructions... Gonna allow for break in time the vibes I know are normal, just wasn't sure of the knocking noise
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![]() | | #35 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: NOVA
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Are you guys using the Blue or Red Loctite?
__________________ 2012 Black Mica MS3 AFE Dry Panel Filter - CP-E S2 RMM - JBR SSP - about to be replaced by the CS SS Corksport LEDs - Red Chicco Baby Seat 2013 Black Mica CX-5 Stock |
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| The Following User Says NO Thank You to Ace For This Un-useful Post: | 09Speed3Z (11-15-2012) |
![]() | | #36 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: northwest arkansas
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| Not Ranked : 0 score purple. i get that. i also got it when i had my trz dogbone in. i think it is just the trans hitting some kind of resonant freq. it freaked me out at first. now i loves it.
__________________ 2008 ms3 mit: hypertech tune, pg sri, corksport tip, jbr(80 tmm, 88 rmm, 80 pmm), jbarone bushings + heavy shift knob, diy sts, sure ssp, sensen shocks, jbr rsb, ford transfluid, aura 5 channel amp, jbl gt speakers, 6" bazooka sub, diy mudflaps, DDM 3000k HID fog kit, 6000k lows [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Last edited by tddvrrn; 11-15-2012 at 12:59 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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![]() | | #37 | ![]() |
| Robust Mongoloid ![]() Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South Charlotte, NC
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| Good thread bump...........
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