Built Motor and Twinscroll 35r

[PapaSmurf]

Originally Posted by Lex Most importantly measure these rods. The metal is probably fine but cheaper rods skimp on the prevision machining so have them measured and resized if need be.

What lex said, but most good or responsible machine shops will do it for you without asking. Just make sure you get them measured.

I didnt even have to ask my machine shop, they just said we will also measure the rods for you. Only bad thing about this machine shop is they take forever, they have had a long block dustin is building for someone for about 5 months. Hoping I can get my shit back within a month.

[Evan@COBB]

Woot! Woot!

Finally was able to track down a set of rods that will fit the CP Pistons.

Found a set of Eagle H-Beams @ Real Street Performance that shipped out to me today.

Should have pistons and rods in the next couple of days and I can finally get this hunk of metal to the machine shop.

[XLT_66]

Okay, I have everything in my hands and ready to drop it off at the machine shop.

I was really grilling him on a timeline and of course, he said, "2 weeks, give or take, shouldn't be a problem."

Great...

[Boosted Beluga]

Remember if you want it done right let them take their time. You don't want to rush them and them overlooking or mess something up.

[Tokay444]

Will they be doing the final assembly or just the machine work?

[XLT_66]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Will they be doing the final assembly or just the machine work?

They are doing the final assembly of the short block. I'm taking it from there.

[Tokay444]

Good.

[mason]

let me know later on if you need .82 divided A/R housing to try out....

[XLT_66]

Motor got dropped off yesterday.

When it returns, it'll be a nice and clean, bored, decked, and fully balanced short block.

Can't wait!

[Boosted Beluga]

Whats the eta on getting the short block back?

[XLT_66]

Originally Posted by Boosten Ya(josh) Whats the eta on getting the short block back?

He's still giving me the "two weeks" reply when I asked him today when I was dropping off my Streetlight flywheel.

Hoping he can get it done that quickly. Once I get the motor back, still need to assemble the rest of it, get it back in the car, and get the custom intake, exhaust mani, and downpipe fabbed up.

[PapaSmurf]

I think every machine shops answer is "Two weeks"

Ive been waiting 3 weeks now to get my block back. Going to call them this week sometime and pray for maybe "1 Week"

[Boosted Beluga]

Is his shop busy? When I had my motor built it took the guy doing it a week and a half to pull the motor, disassemble, take to the machine shop, assemble and on the road.

Mine was a basic build tho. They did need to replace one sleave and do a valve job on the head.

[XLT_66]

He is ALWAYS busy. While he's just a 3-man operation, this guy does all the machine work for tons of high horsepower, exotic, cars.

With TX2K12 this weekend, he's been slammed the last 6 months or so trying to get all the Supra, GT-R, Viper, and Lambo guys ready in time.

All he has to do is pull the rotating assembly out of my motor, do the machining, and put the new parts in. No pulling motor, sleave work, valve job, etc.

[XLT_66]

So, I need some advice. I'm not sure what to do with the head on this motor now. I've opened up the intake manifold to match the SURE TIG, which is fine and dandy and it turned out great. Except now I need to match the intake ports on the head so I don't have a big edge sticking out into air stream right before it enters the head.

So, what work are you guys having done to the head? Have any good, detailed pictures of the work you had done?

Would it be the end of the world if I have a ported intake manifold and a stock head? Seems like it would create quite a bit of turbulence in the current state.

I'm kind of at a loss. I don't have much experience with head work so I'm looking for some advice.

Should I wait on upgrading components in the head until I put cams in the car? (Upgraded valves, performance valve job, etc?) I was hoping that the timeline would work out for me testing some cams for a manufacturer but they are taking longer than expected on them. Currently saying 2-3 months from having something for me. Seems out of order to upgrade the valve train in the head now and then go in and put cams in 4 months and potentially need different stuff.

Someone point me in the right direction? Thanks.

[Tabasco69]

you can gasket match the intake and exhaust ports now while everything is apart, same way you did with the IM, use the gaskets asa template, me/myself and I would tear down and empty the head completely- metal debri has a way of finding it's way into nooks and crannies- scribe and dye and port and polish and do a very good thorough cleaning including all oil galleyways and coolant ports, all the threaded holes etc...brass brushes, high pressure air and cleaning solvent...take your tyime, be patient and careful.....only work the ports and runners and stay the heck away from the inside of the valve chamber...all you should be trying to do is match the ports and get rid of any imperfections or possible flow deviations to gain some cfm.

[Tomas]

Different ways of going about working the head.
I knife edged the separation wall between each of the runners for each cylinder and will eliminate the the separation wall on the IM between the runners. If a IM with the possibility for injector bosses ever comes out I will position the injectors smack in the middle of both runners for each cylinder.

As for the combustion chamber, most agree grinding away at the portrutions surrounding the injectors is not a good idea. Just smooth out the edges. On the opposite side, you can take away material to make it more spherical.

I also ground out / lightened the bottom of the inlet valves so they weigh as much as the exhaust valves to up the red line of the engine. Some ukrainian dude did this and is reving to 8K.

Personally, I don't think upgrading springs, valves and guides are necessary. OEM components are pretty good. Inlet valves plenty big. Going with more aggressive cams will require stiffer springs and that in turn will generate more heat.

[XLT_66]

Okay...so I've got the motor and head back.

I've got the oil pump, water pump, thermostat, PCV, and head installed.

Turns out the spin-on kit that I have here at COBB isn't correct and doesn't have a spot for the oil cooler, so that sucks. Need to find one of those ASAP.

Quick question:

1) If I hold the cam with VVT sprocket, I can feel a very small wiggle between the VVT sprocket and the cam if I twist it by hand. When dissasembling, I never removed either cam sprockets and I hadn't planned on replacing the diamond washers, etc. Is this wiggle normal?

[Tokay444]

That's slop in the locating pin that locks the vvt for startup.

[Boosted Beluga]

And you have to replace all the diamond washers out else fail can happen @superskaterxes

[Tokay444]

He didn't take the sprockets off. He doesn't need to replace the washers.

[XLT_66]

Wonder if I can convince the dealer to give me new VVT if I take it up to them.

Is some slop acceptable here? Not sure what is normal.

[Tomas]

spend the money and get a DCR or PPT VVT assembly.

[superskaterxes]

Originally Posted by XLT_66 Okay...so I've got the motor and head back. I've got the oil pump, water pump, thermostat, PCV, and head installed. Turns out the spin-on kit that I have here at COBB isn't correct and doesn't have a spot for the oil cooler, so that sucks. Need to find one of those ASAP. Quick question: 1) If I hold the cam with VVT sprocket, I can feel a very small wiggle between the VVT sprocket and the cam if I twist it by hand. When dissasembling, I never removed either cam sprockets and I hadn't planned on replacing the diamond washers, etc. Is this wiggle normal?

you must replace the VVT washers if you take that shit off

[XLT_66]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes you must replace the VVT washers if you take that shit off

I have not removed the VVT sprocket from the camshaft. I have not loosened the bolt that holds the sprocket to the camshaft.

I'm just trying to figure out if this very small amount of play is not acceptable for this part. For all I know, it's perfectly normal to have this amount of play in the sprocket.

Ant, you have any say in this?

If I remove the sprocket, I have new washers ready to go in.

[Tokay444]

I have no play in my ptp unit.
That's not to say some isn't allowable.

[Evan@COBB]

Have a DCR VVT coming in the mail today.

Plan to have everything assembled and ready to go in the car on Monday. Then, need to get going on the exhaust manifold, dp, and intake.

Current plan/hopes is to have the car up and running by next weekend.

Wish me luck!

[jjfam1]

Good luck!

[Evan@COBB]

Just got this in the mail! Way to go DCR for only taking 2 days to receive an order!

However, not sure if this will effect things?




Also, when you have the timing tool in place and you tighten the cam caps down, is the timing tool still easily removed once everything is tight? Mine seems likes it is pretty damned snug right now and would need to be tapped out with a little hammer or something.

[Tokay444]

Nothing to worry about on the housing.

[Chimmike]

yeah, capping the timing tool in/out is not a big deal.

[Evan@COBB]

Okay, on to the next problem.

I'm trying to get the 90* out of the crank pull bolt right now.

I have a beefy M10 bolt in the blind hole to hold TDC. I have the camshaft SST installed.

I put the crank pulley on and install a M6 bolt into the hole to align the crank pulley.

I get the 90 ft-lb no problem. I get about 20* additional rotation on the crank pulley and I notice that the pulley rotates a hair. Then, it gives. The damned M6 bolt that is aligning the pulley freaking bent and broke inside the hole.

Shit!

Now I have a crank pulley that is half way tightened down and no way to hold the pulley in place now.

Any suggestions? Anyone else have this damned problem?

[Tokay444]

There's an sst to hold the crank pulley.
I'm assuming the engine is out of the car?
Fab up a bracket and lock the flywheel.
But, your gonna need a new bolt, washers and to get that stripped bolt out of the timing cover. Your ignition timing is off from tdc now.

[XLT_66]

Engine is out of the car and on an engine stand. No flywheel installed yet since it's on the engine stand.

I pulled the crank bolt off. Looks like the bolt that was holding it didn't break. It bent and then the timing cover broke away.

[Boosted Beluga]

New timing cover possibly?

[jracer]

@Speed6killer has two for sale

[mason]

good luck with everything!! looking forward to seeing your end results with T3 twin scroll

[Tokay444]

@SPEED6 KILLAH

[XLT_66]

Okay, so I pulled the timing cover and got new washers and crank bolt.

I then reinstalled the timing cover again.

I got the motor all ready to go with the TDC bolt, the cam SST, and I was able to get about 5 threads engaged to locate the crank pulley into the M6 hole behind it.

I then used another SST I had that is like a leverage handle and wedged it into the spokes of the crank pulley and then raised up the arm of one of our 2-post lifts to hold the leverage arm in place. I blocked the wheels on the engine stand and sat on the lift arm. Then with about a 5' piece of pipe, I managed to get the crank bolt tighetned all the way down.

Whew!!!!

It was so ghetto rigged....y'all would have been proud.

[bmylez]

Why do you use your two different user names? Just use Evan@COBB, haha.