Bullet Bitten, wallet empty. GTX3076R project begins

[Chimmike]

First drive, first logs.

As stated, first log is the 2nd gear MAF Calibration log. Seems to be pretty decent.
Second log is the 3rd gear pull, 15psi max boost, no hiccups anywhere, super smooth.

Time to up the boost for sure.......

[essejkcamraw]

I'm sure @15psi it's a hell of a difference over stock. welcome to no traction.

[Chimmike]

actually at 15psi it didn't feel all that fast. These things don't wake up until 18+ from what I can tell. It did pull solidly to redline though, which I'll gladly get used to!

[bmylez]

WTF is wrong with my car...even with your 3076, your load is way fuckin higher at 3k. Looks like you're on your way to making good power. Oh, and you're flowing way more g/s. Ok, I think it's time to check for boost leaks. Perhaps my turbo is strong enough to hold 21psi to redline despite a leak.

[Bucker]

Mike, good to see this man! Keep it up! let me know if you want help with anything.

[Chimmike]

Ok, I'm here's the first base map I used, and the 19psi map I just tried.

These two logs are from the 19psi map. Don't know why I'm not making 19psi. Forge bpv not holding the boost? Dunno. Held the stock turbo to 20+psi fine.

Ideas?

BTW: Stock ebcs.

[Chimmike]

Ok, so I have a turboxs MBC around. Thing is uh, counter-intuitive....being righty, less boost, lefty, more boost............correct? Maybe put that sucker on while I wait to order a grimmspeed ebcs.

[bmylez]

Now Buck's tune is worthless

[Chimmike]

alright, becuz gtx iwg actuator has one port, i fukd up teh vac lines to it so stock ebcs ain't doin shit. gotta pic up a vac tee tomorrow to run to the boost source to it and the line going to iwg actuator.

[bmylez]

This is what helped him understand how to hook it up, by the way, courtesy of me:

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by bmylez This is what helped him understand how to hook it up, by the way, courtesy of me:

This should be part of the non-existent ATP installation docs.

[Chimmike]

Well, wga preloaded as much as threads will allow. So first runs today, targeting 19psi and 11.8:1 afr's, hits 17psi, 9s in the afr's. I'm thinking boost leak :/

so I'll check some things after work and see what I can come up with.

[Chimmike]

So here's a nice log

22psi, nice 'n warm out here. Gotta obviously fix some of the MAF scaling around 4v, but targeting 12:1 afr's right now. It's doing pretty good! I'm getting pretty stoked!
The hankook v12s are holding traction in 3rd right now, but top of second they pretty much break off.

grimmspeed ebcs coming soon, this log was done on mbc.

lol@ the dyno. Obviously some fine tuning to be done! That's smoothing 3, btw.

[Realgib3]

Glad to see this thing rolling! What ever happened with the boost leak?

[Chimmike]

Ended up if there was a leak, I fixed it. I didn't have the 'pill' in the stock ebcs so it just wasn't building boost like it should.
And I think I am having the same problem you did with the forge, I don't think it's holding boost well enough, 23psi early on, it drops to 20 then builds back to 23 by redline, barely.

oh well, clutch is HATING me right now, slipping hardcore in 4th and 5th.

[Tech/Sales@EM]

^ Well we knew that was gonna happen now didnt we

[rfinkle2]

@chimmike.

Realgib3 may have some different results (hoping he chimes in on the subject), but I wouldn't run afr's > 11.8 on pure pump gas if it were my car.

It seems that dyno results aren't showing enough (any) power increase running in the 12's to justify sacrificing the safety of 11.8's of so.

Glad to see that you are in the tuning stages now.

I see some guys breakin em' about low flow for a 3076, and that is to be expected until you get that dip in your boost curve ironed out, whether it be your bpv leaking, or a bcs issue.

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by Tech/Sales@EM ^ Well we knew that was gonna happen now didnt we

yup, so I'm gonna be calling you when the time comes.

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 @chimmike. Realgib3 may have some different results (hoping he chimes in on the subject), but I wouldn't run afr's > 11.8 on pure pump gas if it were my car. It seems that dyno results aren't showing enough (any) power increase running in the 12's to justify sacrificing the safety of 11.8's of so. Glad to see that you are in the tuning stages now. I see some guys breakin em' about low flow for a 3076, and that is to be expected until you get that dip in your boost curve ironed out, whether it be your bpv leaking, or a bcs issue.

I think it's probably both boost control and bpv. Not sure if I can add another washer to the bpv or not, but as realgib3 mentioned, the forge valve is very small in diameter and just may not be able to handle the cfm this thing flows.

[bmylez]

Alright, it's official then: Forge = ricer mod. If it can't hold man-boost, ain't worth the money.

[Realgib3]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 @chimmike. Realgib3 may have some different results (hoping he chimes in on the subject), but I wouldn't run afr's > 11.8 on pure pump gas if it were my car. It seems that dyno results aren't showing enough (any) power increase running in the 12's to justify sacrificing the safety of 11.8's of so. Glad to see that you are in the tuning stages now. I see some guys breakin em' about low flow for a 3076, and that is to be expected until you get that dip in your boost curve ironed out, whether it be your bpv leaking, or a bcs issue.

The only power increase I saw from running leaner was from 6k-RL when it cut my IDC's from mid 90's to like 80. Other than that, I say richer is a better idea. I've always said somewhere right around 12:1 is a good safe bet.

Also, it took over 13:1 to see that difference and that was with a little e85 for protection...

Originally Posted by chimmike yup, so I'm gonna be calling you when the time comes. I think it's probably both boost control and bpv. Not sure if I can add another washer to the bpv or not, but as realgib3 mentioned, the forge valve is very small in diameter and just may not be able to handle the cfm this thing flows.

Actually.. my issue with the forge wasn't a 'Holding boost' issue, it was just a surge issue.

Because of the pull-type design of the Forge, I'm not sure that it's even possible for it to 'leak' under boost unless something is broken or hooked up wrong.

The problem I had was just that the in and out holes were to small on the Forge and could not evacuate enough air when I let off, thus causing some of the air to back up and cause surge.

BTW, the best results I had with the Forge was with the Green spring which is about twice as soft as the Yellow spring... This did NOT open up under boost, but did allow for more air to be evacuated when I let off, because it would stay open longer, since it required less vacuum to open.

Hope that helps!

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by Realgib3 The only power increase I saw from running leaner was from 6k-RL when it cut my IDC's from mid 90's to like 80. Other than that, I say richer is a better idea. I've always said somewhere right around 12:1 is a good safe bet. Also, it took over 13:1 to see that difference and that was with a little e85 for protection... Actually.. my issue with the forge wasn't a 'Holding boost' issue, it was just a surge issue. Because of the pull-type design of the Forge, I'm not sure that it's even possible for it to 'leak' under boost unless something is broken or hooked up wrong. The problem I had was just that the in and out holes were to small on the Forge and could not evacuate enough air when I let off, thus causing some of the air to back up and cause surge. BTW, the best results I had with the Forge was with the Green spring which is about twice as soft as the Yellow spring... This did NOT open up under boost, but did allow for more air to be evacuated when I let off, because it would stay open longer, since it required less vacuum to open. Hope that helps!

Thanks man. I think a couple things are hitting me.
First, when tech/sales@em helped me do the VVT actuator swap, I realigned the crank position sensor/bolted it down. For all I know timing is off, hindering my power.
Clutch, well, that's first and foremost on the "gotta get it and replace it" list.
I have the blue spring in the Forge. I'll have to check and see what other springs I have. We'll see.

[Realgib3]

Originally Posted by chimmike Thanks man. I think a couple things are hitting me. First, when tech/sales@em helped me do the VVT actuator swap, I realigned the crank position sensor/bolted it down. For all I know timing is off, hindering my power. Clutch, well, that's first and foremost on the "gotta get it and replace it" list. I have the blue spring in the Forge. I'll have to check and see what other springs I have. We'll see.

I believe Yellow was the softest spring that came with our kits. I had actually purchased another spring package from Forge because I had lost mine. If you wanna try any other spring/shim combos, let me know and I can send you mine for testing.

Also fwiw... Before I got my ebcs dialed in (which took a looooong time) my boost oscillations were considerably worse than yours.


EDIT::: The reason it's like 100 times harder to get these dialed in than many other big turbos is because of the shitty iwg design. We have to preload them so much to be able to build boost correctly, that it leaves very little range of motion for the flapper and arm, so small, smooth adjustments are really hard to make/

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by Realgib3 I believe Yellow was the softest spring that came with our kits. I had actually purchased another spring package from Forge because I had lost mine. If you wanna try any other spring/shim combos, let me know and I can send you mine for testing. Also fwiw... Before I got my ebcs dialed in (which took a looooong time) my boost oscillations were considerably worse than yours. EDIT::: The reason it's like 100 times harder to get these dialed in than many other big turbos is because of the shitty iwg design. We have to preload them so much to be able to build boost correctly, that it leaves very little range of motion for the flapper and arm, so small, smooth adjustments are really hard to make/

Good to know. I'll be really conservative with the wgdc for a while.

If I didn't have to buy a clutch I'd upgrade to EWG straightaway, cuz I can already tell the benefits would great.