First Romanian BT MS3

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Dmurray06 As for DO vs. Snow: IMO Snow is a better quality kit, but it's the price point that made me go with DO. If decide to go with DO just inspect your check valve every once in awhile, they have been know to fail. Or you can spend an extra few bucks an get a solenoid valve which is a better option. Also, I don't think the IC spray will be required once you install a WMI kit, you bats MAY drop below ambient, which is all you can ask for. And I wouldn't want to spray any % of meth on top on my engine.

@Lex's install seemed to be the cleanest when I first looked at his post. However, I don't use washer fluids with methanol because it leaves stains on the clear coating. So... if they don't have methanol they will have... glycol ...which is not good for the engine as you mentioned.

So I'm kind of forced to use a separate tank where I can also add some methanol at some point and not spray it anywhere else but into the intake. However, if I'll spray over the TMIC it will be just distilled water, when I'll add meth I'll cap that nozzle because I don't feel comfortable spraying alcohols in a hot engine bay and eventually get drunk behind the wheel if I forget to turn the recirculation on

And yes, I intend to get a solenoid and not just a valve, hydro-locking the engine because some valve jammed and sprays continuously is not something anybody wants. It worth the extra 50 bucks or however more it costs.

Now, I don't know how much pressure is such a tank supposed to hold. I guess it has to be somehow open, just like the washer fluid reservoir, because the air needs to replace the sprayed fluid. And in this case I think I don't have to worry too much about the ducts I'll have to fabricate, just make them good enough to prevent the tank filling up with cooked bugs and dirt.

[Dmurray06]

Originally Posted by mituc @Lex's install seemed to be the cleanest when I first looked at his post. However, I don't use washer fluids with methanol because it leaves stains on the clear coating. So... if they don't have methanol they will have... glycol ...which is not good for the engine as you mentioned. So I'm kind of forced to use a separate tank where I can also add some methanol at some point and not spray it anywhere else but into the intake. However, if I'll spray over the TMIC it will be just distilled water, when I'll add meth I'll cap that nozzle because I don't feel comfortable spraying alcohols in a hot engine bay and eventually get drunk behind the wheel if I forget to turn the recirculation on And yes, I intend to get a solenoid and not just a valve, hydro-locking the engine because some valve jammed and sprays continuously is not something anybody wants. It worth the extra 50 bucks or however more it costs. Now, I don't know how much pressure is such a tank supposed to hold. I guess it has to be somehow open, just like the washer fluid reservoir, because the air needs to replace the sprayed fluid. And in this case I think I don't have to worry too much about the ducts I'll have to fabricate, just make them good enough to prevent the tank filling up with cooked bugs and dirt.

Well people use washer fluid with methanol in it all the time, with no side effects, but to each their own.

As for pressure in the meth tank, the meth is pressurized downstream of the meth tank so it will never really be under pressure. Yea it's exactly like a washer fluid tank.

Also I think generally people mount the tank below the air filter inside the bumper, there is quite a bit of room there.

[mituc]

Yeah, that's where I want to put it, under the airbox, pretty much like in Abilor's install diary. I'll have to fab two things: a bracket to hold the pump and tank and a duct or flexible pipe for the fill ups.

As for the washer fluids with methanol... I've used them for 2 years or so and the front bumper, hood and some of the top of the cabin had stains both from the head lamp washers and windshield washers. It may also be the crappy washer fluid they sell here and the stains may be from something else, but after I moved to methanol-free washer fluids (both for winter and summer) there are no more stains...

[Dmurray06]

Originally Posted by mituc Yeah, that's where I want to put it, under the airbox, pretty much like in Abilor's install diary. I'll have to fab two things: a bracket to hold the pump and tank and a duct or flexible pipe for the fill ups. As for the washer fluids with methanol... I've used them for 2 years or so and the front bumper, hood and some of the top of the cabin had stains both from the head lamp washers and windshield washers. It may also be the crappy washer fluid they sell here and the stains may be from something else, but after I moved to methanol-free washer fluids (both for winter and summer) there are no more stains...

Actually if you do a little search, I remember reading a meth build thread where this person bought a remote filler that screwed on to the top of the tank, an it extended up. Save you from trying to fabricate something.

[mituc]

Ok, now I need to decide or figure out two things. Maybe you guys can help me with some advice on these:

1. which kit is going to be the best for me? I was thinking at the SnowPerformance stage 3 kit (the kit with the in-cabin LCD controller) and the Devil'sOwn DVC-30 Stage 2. No matter what kit is going to be I will acquire a tank level indicator and solenoid instead of nickel check valve.

After salivating all day long at how much I could play with that SnowPerformance controller I'm leaning towards the DO kit. The SnowPerformance kit seems to be very nice, the controller is better, but it's too sophisticate even for the extreme 2.3DISI T builds on this forum and I'll probably throw a lot of money on functions I'm never going to use. The pumps are similar, the tanks seem to have just different stickers, fittings are both high quality, and the DO has better nozzles as far as people say but not sure how much better compared to what I need them for. And if I place them cleverly maybe the difference in the spray quality will be 0.


...And
2: I decided to tap into the silicone tube between the cold pipe and throttle body. I don't want to tap into the cold pipe and weld anything there, I just want to keep things simple.
But, where should I place the nozzle, assuming that these nozzles spray at 80 degrees? Like in picture #1 inside the elbow of that tube or like in the 2nd picture on the outside? Or... somewhere else?
In the second picture I think that the chances the spray will hit the tube walls are smaller, and the incoming air will take away with it the water sprayed against it. I know, they recommend to put the nozzle perpendicularly on the tube, but I still wanted to think about it a little.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by mituc Ok, now I need to decide or figure out two things. Maybe you guys can help me with some advice on these: 1. which kit is going to be the best for me? I was thinking at the SnowPerformance stage 3 kit (the kit with the in-cabin LCD controller) and the Devil'sOwn DVC-30 Stage 2. No matter what kit is going to be I will acquire a tank level indicator and solenoid instead of nickel check valve. After salivating all day long at how much I could play with that SnowPerformance controller I'm leaning towards the DO kit. The SnowPerformance kit seems to be very nice, the controller is better, but it's too sophisticate even for the extreme 2.3DISI T builds on this forum and I'll probably throw a lot of money on functions I'm never going to use. The pumps are similar, the tanks seem to have just different stickers, fittings are both high quality, and the DO has better nozzles as far as people say but not sure how much better compared to what I need them for. And if I place them cleverly maybe the difference in the spray quality will be 0. ...And 2: I decided to tap into the silicone tube between the cold pipe and throttle body. I don't want to tap into the cold pipe and weld anything there, I just want to keep things simple. But, where should I place the nozzle, assuming that these nozzles spray at 80 degrees? Like in picture #1 inside the elbow of that tube or like in the 2nd picture on the outside? Or... somewhere else? In the second picture I think that the chances the spray will hit the tube walls are smaller, and the incoming air will take away with it the water sprayed against it. I know, they recommend to put the nozzle perpendicularly on the tube, but I still wanted to think about it a little.

The silicone should be nice and thick if you're going to tap it.

If you do, this is the best method:

mounting water injection nozzle in silicone

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Lex The silicone should be nice and thick if you're going to tap it. If you do, this is the best method: mounting water injection nozzle in silicone

Yeap, that's pretty much what I had in mind but now I also learned from that link that this is the right approach. Thank you!
I have the boost source for the Grimmspeed EBCS tapped into the hot boost tube and with two metal washers everything seems to be sealed perfectly. There is no reason to do it differently for the WMI nozzle, thanks for confirming that.
Now I'll have to decide where exactly I'll drill into that silicone tube I may need a spare tube to play with

Ok, so I made a comparison between the SnowPerformance and the DO kits on their own home sites (I couldn't find the DO kit on SU or Edge), both including a 3 quart tank, level indicator, dual nozzle upgrade, solenoid upgrade, and of course the usual stuff, controller, pump, standard fitting set, and so on.

The DO invoice is $439.85 and the Snow Performance kit is $844.99 with exactly the same features apart from the possibly smarter and definitely nicer controller. Overall it worth the extra R&D put into it but not for my application.

I can't wait to have similar winter power figures during summer! And maybe with this kit on that dyno will finally read 370bhp uncorrected and 400+ Nm from 3700 up to 6700 But I'll probably need another hand from Lex to get timing right. We'll see...

[Lex]

I pieced my kit together and it can save you some money. The controllers are unlikely to wear out so you can pick one up used for a good price. Just get a new pump, lines, nozzles.

[mituc]

Today I changed the spark plugs for the first time after going big turbo, about 24k km/15k miles ago. The gap was increased from 0.7mm/0.028" to 0.82-0.85mm/0.032-0.033". They all looked the same, there wasn't any of them covered in oil, they all had a thin layer of black soot on that bottom collar surrounding the electrode which is to be expected for a high power tune on pump gas (which needs to run a bit richer up top to be safe).
Now I replaced the Denso ITV22s with NGK LTR7IX gapped at 0.65mm/0.026".

I just got a new tune from @Lex which should make things even more interesting pretty soon.

After loosing the WMI kit in a transport that for some reason was confiscated (I don't know what some carrier my freight forwarding company was using did wrong) I decided I'll leave the engine equipment as is. I like and got in use to how it drives.
After replacing the blown thermostat I was able to get 1.5 more degrees of advance timing and the ECTs don't climb to the skies, so with the new properly gapped NGKs I think things will be even better even without water injection (when i purchased the WMI kit I was thinking to inject water only). Anyway, the WMI kit would have been one more thing to take care of, the weather here is pretty extreme, it can go down to -35C/-31F in the winter and up to +42-43C/107-109F during summer.

The only kind of bad news is that my mazda dealer told me that my front shocks have too much rod play and they can't guarantee the results of the alignment check I asked them to do. This is the second set of Bilstein B14 with the same problem. So now I will have to search the market for some other coil over kits that will offer the same ride comfort and handling. I'll probably go for the CorkSport coil-overs since I already had in mind getting some of their braces. That unless someone comes with a better suggestion by the time I'll decide to spend $2k more on some pieces of steel.

[TerryLTerrell]

Hi I'm Terry. My wife drives a 2010 Mazda 6 6 speed and I take care of it. Hope I can contribute to this forum.

Terry

[mituc]

Say what?

[ricardo_yen]

Hi Mituc

At a flow of 300g/s what is the possible power on my hybrid turbo running meth....

Good luck, hope you get to your power goals.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by ricardo_yen Hi Mituc At a flow of 300g/s what is the possible power on my hybrid turbo running meth.... Good luck, hope you get to your power goals.

It's hard for me to estimate these power levels, one of the tuners around here may be able to give you a more precise answer. I recommended you to get in touch with Lex@Stratified and I know you're working with him, he will be able to give you a dyno-precise answer. I think if you run meth (enough of it) to be able to run very aggressive timing (17-18 degrees up top) probably you can get up to 340-350whp.

Considering the car balance in comfort, handling, cabin noise and power right now I'm satisfied, meaning that I've met my goals. I need to sort out some suspension reliability issues (to find a good strut bearing that will not blow every 8000-12000km with my Bilstein kit) and some chassis braces and that would be it.
I had contradictory thoughts about adding a WMI kit and I ordered one this winter, but for some reason the whole container was confiscated by the customs (the carrier did something wrong) and when I asked myself again if I want WMI, knowing the benefits of it (cleaning, power, safety, and so on) I said that I will wait a bit more and think about it again later.

And with the last tune revision from @Lex I can do this all day without worrying that something may blow (apart from my clutch and tires maybe ):

3MPS entering the autobahn - YouTube

3MPS entering the autobahn - YouTube

[mituc]

It's been a long time since the last post and I did quite a lot of changes to the car since then. So wall of text follows!

First big change: the suspension. As stated in a previous post I was in a desperate need of a more reliable suspension. The Bilstein B14 kit was pretty good at what it was designed for. But not that good or reliable for street driving, and by street driving I understand both impeccable roads and bumpy/rough roads.
Therefore I moved to the Bilstein/Eibach B12 kit. This kit actually has an Eibach part number now, it looks like the first Bilstein B12 kits had blue H&R springs while the newer ones (the ones which also have the Eibach part#, E90-55-008-05-22 for who needs it) have the Eibach Pro springs kit. And that's what this kit is: a set of Bilstein B8 and a set of Eibach Pro springs packaged in one big box.

At first I was afraid that the car will lose some of its handling but it did not. I installed the CorkSport cambers plates (awesome product, thank you @CorkSport) and the Eibach camber arms at the same time, but the alignment settings were set back to stock (the changes were rather small from the B14). At this point the only difference was some minimal body roll, while with the B14 I didn't have any noticeable body roll.

After a few days I swapped the Michelin PSS tires with brand new PS3 and there was a slight improvement in handling, but man!, when we redid the alignment it was a night and day difference from stock! Now I'm on winter tires and the car looses lateral grip at about the same speed like it did on stock alignment settings with the PSS/PS3 summer tires. Also, the car turns instantly, there is no tendency to understeer at corner entry and no tendency to oversteer shortly after. All the issues brought by the stock alignment are now GONE!

The comfort on the roads with small bumps is about the same, but on the ones with bigger bumps is a lot better because this new suspension kit has a longer travel, while the B14 had that problem that the spring coils were touching quite soon and they were eating up my front strut bearings.

Next was the clutch. I felt it started slipping last winter, after the car sat unused 21 days and then 47. That's when I noticed that the thermostat was gone as well (thankfully the peak temps during day time were around -2C/28F).
I had a Spec Stage 2+ self-ratcheting (SZ033H) kit sitting in my parts drawer since I purchased it from Edge last winter so now I only had to get the new OEM flywheel and bolts.

Here are the used OEN and the new OEM FW (LUK):

The used one was resting on the travel limiters even though I didn't feel any issues with it.
The clutch disk was looking decent for 139k kms/87k miles:


The whole kit (FW, PP, disk) will go to Hexer Engineering in Hungary to be re-done and reinforced to hold 550Nm/400lb*ft of torque and still be street drivable.
The Spec stage2 kit is good, it feels better every day, but it made my car more difficult to drive slow as it bites pretty soon and very hard which is a PITA at low speeds (5-10mps in bumper to bumper traffic). Also changing gears fast and smooth is a bit more difficult (not impossible but not as easy as it used to be).

First day after installing the clutch I did a test and it didn't slip any more, but I blew the PMM during a WOT shift. So I ordered a new OEM PMM (arrived today, it's soft as bird shit but it will do for a daily driver ), and I also ordered a TMM insert from Corksport yesterday because it looks like my TMM has the right layout even if it's on a gen1. But we'll see, if it doesn't fit I'll order a gen2 TMM.

Since I got kind of tired with my old Caska 3635 I ordered this one from Seicane:
Android Car DVD Gps navigation Stereo for Mazda 3 with Radio Bluetooth 3G Wifi
None of the Android HU for gen1 Mazda 3 had a silver face! NONE! WTF?! Since the front plastic covers seem to have about the same layout I will try to re-use the one from my old Caska. I also ordered this HU with a spare front cover so that I can mess with it and try to paint it.

So no, no plans in selling the car yet

[mituc]

Now, because there aren't too many things to address or upgrade I have two goals for this spring:
1. get a revised tune from @Lex, the idea is to get improved/faster spool and eventually, if possible and it's still safe, to rev a little higher to make more use of the 3rd and 4th gears especially.

2. because the car has a respectable age and the chassis seems to have soften a bit we will put these on the car:

* Lower Control Arms from HardRace (they are on their way here):


* Corksport front LCA tie brace:


* and some braces from the Chinese manufacturer KF3:



The last two items are already on my balcony, the KF3 braces just came in earlier today:




Yeah, I know, they are yellow. But they are from China so what would you expect, to be green? They will be underneath the car anyway, but actually the finish is pretty nice, they came in with all the bolts. These ones don't seem to use rivets which I tend to like more, if I don't like one I can get it off of the car in no time.

[Lex]

How is the quality of those braces? I have a set coming in as well.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Lex How is the quality of those braces? I have a set coming in as well.

The quality is very good, they look so nice that my 3 years old daughter wanted to take one with her in the bed when I told her they are for my car.

I have no idea how the fitting is, but I remember that @Haltech tested these braces a while ago and wanted to organize a large group-buy, just that the deal was off because the guys from China were unable to find some reasonable transportation method to the US.
IIRC these guys designed and/or manufactured these braces for GT-Spec. So they are supposed to be the same braces only that they're painted with a bright slick yellow paint which is very nice to touch. I think I'll wax them before fitting them, they are that nice!

Today after looking better at the pictures the CS LCA tie brace may be incompatible with the large triangle brace. I don't know how I could not notice that and I don't know which one I'll install now, but probably the big yellow triangle bar since it added $50 more to the shipping costs

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by mituc The quality is very good, they look so nice that my 3 years old daughter wanted to take one with her in the bed when I told her they are for my car. I have no idea how the fitting is, but I remember that @Haltech tested these braces a while ago and wanted to organize a large group-buy, just that the deal was off because the guys from China were unable to find some reasonable transportation method to the US. IIRC these guys designed and/or manufactured these braces for GT-Spec. So they are supposed to be the same braces only that they're painted with a bright slick yellow paint which is very nice to touch. I think I'll wax them before fitting them, they are that nice! Today after looking better at the pictures the CS LCA tie brace may be incompatible with the large triangle brace. I don't know how I could not notice that and I don't know which one I'll install now, but probably the big yellow triangle bar since it added $50 more to the shipping costs

This is correct.. As good as the guys english was, its was still poor that we could not understand what the actual destination per piece would end up costing.

Having no experience with how to obtain cargo from a shipyard, using someone that does, paying additional fee's etc, adds up. then you still have to finally unload the container, have a truck big enough to carry the load then piece them together. After that, you have to ship out each piece double checking their pieces are all there and not assuming they are.

This is a LARGE under taking for anyone. IT can be done if you had multiple people to help along with the process. The idea here is, you want the final price PER order, to a persons address. Not what its going to cost to buy and ship the product over. That is just half the battle.

[mituc]

The front LCAs from HardRace are here:

[mituc]

The front LCAs fir perfectly, I'll have to re-do the alignment though (I'll have to replace one of the ball joints anyway)).

The KF3 bars on the other hand... epic FAIL.

These parts have serious fitment issues. Basically I could put on the car only the bars from the picture below:



...which I did not because I didn't want to make only the front end stiffer.

Part #9 from the picture below hits the fuel tank:


and part #8 will not sit correctly because of a lip on the rear suspension arms (most importantly) and also the surface is too slick which will allow those rear arm bolts to rotate too easy which will affect the rear suspension alignment.
Obviously because I could not fit correctly part #8 those bars labeled as #7 could not be fitted either.

The middle lower chassis X brace didn't fit either, the holes for the bolts were about 3-4mm off.

So right now these bars for me are $420 thrown in the trash can... I should have bought a meth kit instead.

[mituc]

Just a quick update: with the last tune revision from Stratified we're now revving up to 7k rpm with pretty good success, at almost 7krpm the engine makes about the same power as it does at 5k.
Also the response in the 3200-3500 range is a lot better. Also, in CL in the 2500-3500rpm range the car now feels more alive at normal acceleration pedal values (20-30- max 50%).

I can't be happier with this setup and the new tune (which is almost ready)!

[mituc]

Originally Posted by mituc These parts have serious fitment issues. Basically I could put on the car only the bars from the picture below:

Ok, so I attempted to fit the front braces and they didn't fit either. The holes were off a few mm. We were able to bolt them in 3 bolts and the 4th was always off.
My car has never been hit in any possible way, it actually has 100% original paint on it.





@Haltech, I know that you tried these braces, were you able to actually put any on the car? The rear braces seemed to fit but they were in the way of the rear suspension alignment bolts/nuts which I didn't like, but all others (mid and front braces) did not fit at all in my case.

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by mituc Ok, so I attempted to fit the front braces and they didn't fit either. The holes were off a few mm. We were able to bolt them in 3 bolts and the 4th was always off. My car has never been hit in any possible way, it actually has 100% original paint on it. @Haltech, I know that you tried these braces, were you able to actually put any on the car? The rear braces seemed to fit but they were in the way of the rear suspension alignment bolts/nuts which I didn't like, but all others (mid and front braces) did not fit at all in my case.

I test fitted each piece and they were aligned.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by mituc Ok, so I attempted to fit the front braces and they didn't fit either. The holes were off a few mm. We were able to bolt them in 3 bolts and the 4th was always off. My car has never been hit in any possible way, it actually has 100% original paint on it. @Haltech, I know that you tried these braces, were you able to actually put any on the car? The rear braces seemed to fit but they were in the way of the rear suspension alignment bolts/nuts which I didn't like, but all others (mid and front braces) did not fit at all in my case.

Quality from these off shore parts is always hit and miss and can vary from one batch to another. It really is a shame.

[theurgy]

I'm on the same order that @Lex; has, so here's hoping our has a better batch, otherwise I'll have to do some cutting and grinding to make these fit. Nothing I'm too scared to do.
I was already going to send my set to a powdercoater to get them done in black.

[EvoFire]

Is there any chance that perhaps the EUDM MS3 is slightly different than the USDM/CDM MS3?

I'm guessing unlikely since they should all have came from Japan.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by EvoFire Is there any chance that perhaps the EUDM MS3 is slightly different than the USDM/CDM MS3? I'm guessing unlikely since they should all have came from Japan.

Yes, the they 3s all come from Japan (Hiroshima). At first the supplier said that the parts were designed for a 2.0i but even so the chassis is similar, there are only a few braces that differ from the factory compared to the 3MPS/speed3. There's also a chance that the ones I've got were from a batch designed for the sedan version.

I don't know... it just wasn't meant to be... just like the meth kit (confiscated because something the carrier didn't do right).

@Lex, @theurgy, I'm eager to know how your kits are.

[Haltech]

Well considering when you strip a usdm 3 down and see all of the MPS labeled parts, I'd be willing to assume a world car has the same fitament across the board.

IE: Chinese quality control = a joke

[EvoFire]

Originally Posted by mituc Yes, the they 3s all come from Japan (Hiroshima). At first the supplier said that the parts were designed for a 2.0i but even so the chassis is similar, there are only a few braces that differ from the factory compared to the 3MPS/speed3. There's also a chance that the ones I've got were from a batch designed for the sedan version. I don't know... it just wasn't meant to be... just like the meth kit (confiscated because something the carrier didn't do right). @Lex, @theurgy, I'm eager to know how your kits are.

Fingers crossed because I am part of that groupbuy as well.

What's the difference between the Hardrace control arm compared to the stock one other than the bushings?

I'm guessing you aren't too happy with the Bilstein coils?

[mituc]

Originally Posted by EvoFire What's the difference between the Hardrace control arm compared to the stock one other than the bushings?

None that I can tell, however I lost about one degree of caster which I can't tell if it's because the bushings from the factory set was worn out or something else.
But the caster is now even on both sides, with the factory LCAs there was like 1/3 degrees difference. And personally I could feel only an improvement both in turn-in and launch grip with these LCAs.

Right now I'm debating if I should rebuild the factory LCAs with new pivots and bushings or simply get a new set when time will come, considering that I changed them at 145k kms (which is about 90k miles).

Originally Posted by EvoFire I'm guessing you aren't too happy with the Bilstein coils?

Right now I have the Bilstein B12 kit (which is basically a set of Bilstein B8 dampers and an Eibach ProKit springs. I wasn't too happy with the B14s if that's what you ask, and this is the reason why:
Anybody running Bilstein B14 PSS Coilovers?

[Nitro]

I installed these braces last night. The rear brace was a pain to install in my 2010 speed. Everything fit but some of the alignment holes were very tight.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

[mituc]

Ok, so since about 6000kms ago the engine started burning oil. The way it burns it is very weird. As long as the oil is fresh it doesn't touch it. By example the last fill-up with Redline 5w40 Euro Formula lasted almost 2000kms. Until about 5-6 days ago the oil was still transparent and at the initial level right after the fill-up. Today I pulled the dipstick and found it at 3/4 between min and max. the oil is not chat clear any more, it has a red-ish/brown color.

The coolant is still green, even though I see some tiny particles of soot in it. So I don't know if it's the head gasket... I don't think so.

Tomorrow morning I'll pull the TMIC and check again the PCV and turbo, eventually if there's any oil accumulation in the pipe before the throttle body. I have a feeling that I will not find anything and in this case I'm looking at an engine rebuild unless someone has seen this before and can point me in a precise direction.

For the rebuild I'll probably go for the Wiseco pistons 0.02" overbore, Manley rods, clevite bearings, and OEM head studs (I see that the discussion around the ARP studs doesn't go very well), and supertech valves.
Basically apart from the pistons, rods, bearings, valves and possibly the VVT pinion I'm thinking to use an engine rebuild kit with OEM parts (the stage 2 or 3 engine rebuild kit from @ ). I also intend to add a WMI kit, otherwise it makes no sense to go forged if I can't use the extra strength.

Does anyone have any suggestion regarding any of the parts I need, like buy this and not that, etc? Thank you!

@Lex, @, @phate, @atvfreek, @ms3blackmica, @btstarcher, @silvapain

[btstarcher]

Assuming all things being equal when you check the level (length of time after engine shutdown, etc.) that's still not even a half quart low I believe. Of course it will also get darker the longer it's been running through the engine too.

That being said, you're probably fairly anal about these things, so I'll wait until the more knowledgeable people chime in.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Assuming all things being equal when you check the level (length of time after engine shutdown, etc.) that's still not even a half quart low I believe. Of course it will also get darker the longer it's been running through the engine too.

Well, the thing is that when the oil starts burning it burns at an alarming rate. With the previous oil changes in 1200-1500kms (which is 800-900 miles or so) then oil would get from max to min on the dipstick. I don't remember exactly how much is between min and max but I believe about 800ml. The oil consumption seems to be starting after I go WOT a few times or after a long drive.

It doesn't matter to be honest, as until about 4000 miles ago the car wasn't using any oil at all, the level was the same between changes. So this started suddenly, I thin either when the ambient temperatures increased because summer came or something happened when I started using that fuel additive (naphtha based cleaner, and some octane booster).

[skiptowncat]

compression and leakdown test is the only way

[btstarcher]

I don't use a drop (well a few drops maybe) with ordinary driving, but when I get on it I use a fair amount. I just attribute it to blowby.

[mituc]

Ok, I pulled the intercooler today and I can't say there's anything out of the ordinary there.














I didn't pull the turbo inlet yet, I'll do that when I will put the JBR intake on. It's a bit risky to do that in bront of my apartment complex basically 10 meters from a moderately busy road with a fair amount of dust in the air.

The MotorCheckup test says I have the best oil on the planet.



I guess there's still a chance for the oil from the previous change to have burnt now, because obviously there's still a bit left in the engine between oil changes.

Here's a clip with a cold start. The ambient temperature was about 28C/82F, and it's the start right after I put everything back together. the car starts around 28s, and at about 1m27s I turn the AC on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bv8BDsvkKs0

Am I paranoid?

[btstarcher]

Not really sure what the problem is; you're listening to the exhaust, not the engine....have you checked compression yet?

[mituc]

Originally Posted by btstarcher Not really sure what the problem is; you're listening to the exhaust, not the engine....have you checked compression yet?

No compression test yet, I'm scheduled for a compression+leakdown test on Nov 8 at my dealer (they are 250 miles away and the only ones I trust with my engine).

The exhaust movie was to see the smoke. Apart from that black soot coming out from the exhaust right after starting the car and which is probably the unburnt gas from the 2-3 engine cycles there's no smoke at all, blue, black, orange or red.

[mituc]

I don't care. I'll start with a combination of redline oil, 3 quarts of 5w40 and 3 quarts of 5w50. This would result in a 5w grade oil at cold temperatures and a low w50 oil when hot (about 17-18cSt at 100C). the combined HTST should be also towards 5, like 4.7 or something. And it's going to be full SAPS.
If this is going to burn as well then I'll just use some good long life oil and I will continue using my car normally, top up the oil, and so on. Because apart from the sudden and high oil consuption after 500-1000 miles after changing the oil the car drives normally, it boosts normally, the engine ticks normally, it rips porsches normally, it makes 3 litre audi owners want to open the driver door to get off the car at 100Mph to see why the are standing still while that japanese thin can is flying pass them normally, and so on, everything normally. Next week I'll add the 3" intake and see what else it's got for me.

So in march I'lm going to up the targets: go fully built, using the same 93-94OCT pump gas as now + - yes, + alcohol injection FTW. It's not going to be really meth, but isopropyl or denatured alcohol, probably 70-80% (will add some water just in case). See you then porsches and GT-Rs!