First Romanian BT MS3

[Jackis]

Wow, great competition! I have heard of it, I do also know Igor Andreev, he is from Nizhniy Novgorod and he owned MPS3 several years ago

[pankrok]

mituc can you share more info on the hexer clutch ?
these guys have only fb page , is there any other contact info?

[mituc]

Originally Posted by pankrok mituc can you share more info on the hexer clutch ? these guys have only fb page , is there any other contact info?

I found them on a local car forum and then their FB page.

The clutch I have is pretty good. Basically I handed them over my clutch (disc, pressure plate and flywheel) and they resurfaced the FW, balanced it, changed the wear material on the pressure plate, changed the wear material on the clutch disk.
What I ended up with is a clutch that feels as good if not better than the stock one but can hold 600+Nm.

The Spec Stage2+ I had was able to hold them too but it was a lot more grabby and not that easy on stop&go traffic. It was so grabby that I blew the passenger mount 500kms after fitting it. If this car wasn't one of my DD it wouldn't matter, but it's not the case so it really matters.
Also, the Spec clutch was 50% worn after 25k kms of mainly street driving (found that when I rebuilt my engine).

[pankrok]

I m on the same side , the dual disc gigen i have now is way too racy for daily driving (plus have my plastics are willing to detach when passing 1800-2000 rpm ) so if the hexer is good for 600nm will work for me too.
can you pm price and email for them?

[mituc]

Originally Posted by pankrok I m on the same side , the dual disc gigen i have now is way too racy for daily driving (plus have my plastics are willing to detach when passing 1800-2000 rpm ) so if the hexer is good for 600nm will work for me too. can you pm price and email for them?

They initially told me it's going to be 300EUR max depending on what they need to do and what my requirements are, and it was about that including transport back and forth. So a decent price. Shipping from Greece to Hungary may be a bit more expensive but not by much.

It may seem odd but I communicated with them via a forum. It's this user: Forum 4Tuning - View Profile: Hexer .

[pankrok]

thanks mate.
If I dont succeed communicating with them I ll come back.

how long is this clutch working and how much power/torque are you making ?

[mituc]

Originally Posted by pankrok thanks mate. If I dont succeed communicating with them I ll come back. how long is this clutch working and how much power/torque are you making ?

If you don't succeed in contacting them just let me know.

The clutch is working for about 6000kms and the power figures before upgrading my catback were about 390-410bhp from 4500 to 6800rpm and the peak torque was around 630-640Nm. After upgrading the catback I probably gained about 20bhp more (or whatever 0.10-0.12 more load at the same timing means) in the same RPM range but I was never able to measure them properly because of the cold weather and winter tires.

MazdaSpeed Forums Presents: YouTube

MazdaSpeed Forums Presents: YouTube

[mituc]

Long time since the last post, even though this is not outdated, the car still exists and it's doing awesome.
Still holding the title of "First Romanian BT MS3", first big turbo 2.3DISI-T in general and currently the only running BT 2.3DISI-T (there was a 6MPS which lifted the head and which will come back soon).
I will build a CX7 later this year with the spare engine I have, if things go well.

In the meanwhile the car went through the following:

• new engine. The custom Sp63 pistons touched the oil squirters in a hot summer day and that was it. the block is still good, I will rebuild it and keep it as a spare (already bought all the parts for it);
• upgraded valve springs from Crower;
• Southbend Stage3 Enduro clutch;
• damond Motorsports catch-can;

The GTX3071R (gen1) turbo is still doing good, pushing it at 31PSI and I decided to push it to 31PSI on a broader RPM range after analysing the compressor map (attached) and determining I'm pretty much where I should across the entire rpm/boost range.

With the current tune 60-100mph goes in 3.92s:

MazdaSpeed Forums Presents: YouTube

MazdaSpeed Forums Presents: YouTube

...And some on-board WOT action:

MazdaSpeed Forums Presents: YouTube

MazdaSpeed Forums Presents: YouTube

[Empirestrikes1st]

Hi mituc, I have a question: is it possible to pass emission test with yours UR high flow cat DP? I'm from Czech rep., so I guess our emission test would be likely pretty much the same as in Romania.
Thx

Sorry for posting here, but I just found out I'm not able to send PM's yet...

[Fstrnyou]

WHAT THE FRICK did you do?!!

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou WHAT THE FRICK did you do?!!

I asked my fabricator if we can cap the holes between the intake manifold runners after removing the VTCS shaft. He said he can, provided a solution I agreed with.
One year later those studs were rattled out and started to come loose. The first one that got out, a 2.5cm/1" stud, went into cylinder 3 when I was WOT at 6000rpm. At that moment I did not know WTF happened, I thought I popped a hose or something, so after pulling the car on the side of the road and managed to start it again I drove back home 25kms/15 miles (slowly, not exceeding 2500rpm, as the car wasn't really pulling), with a check engine light because missfire on cylinder 3.

I went back to the rented parking and started to work on the car. Because of the hit that spark plug took the electrode side was shattered so the thread on the head was fucked as well. When unscrewing the plug and figuring that it turned way too hard and way too many times than it should have was the time I dropped a smidge of piss in my pants.
When I pulled the spark plug I managed to also drop a smidge of shit in my panties, and while holding the spark plug in my left hand my right arm suddenly became numb and I hit myself in the nuts while still having the wrench in my hand.



When I stuck a magnet inside #3 and heard that "Click!!" sound a thick metal bung sticks to it I figured that my engine just got its holy fuck this year.




The fabricator used studs like this to cap those VTCS shaft holes. These were threaded in and then sealed with tin I guess.


The exhaust valves are bent but they did an amazing job at shattering that metal and not letting it by to the turbo and cats.
I will try to recover the block which may be fine after boring it at 0.5mm over to 88. The cams, caps and everything else in that area is good, so may be the bearings, rods, griddle and crankshaft. The iron of the head is royally fucked.








So a rebuild is already being done. I have a new GTX3071R gen2 and CorkSport cams, which is what's going to be different from the previous build. So we will make the power and 60-100mph record holder on stock manifolds and full emissions compliance (EGR, double-catted exhaust, and so on) even stronger and will try to surpass the current figures (476WHP/509PS at the crank, 3.62s for 60-100mph).

I have no idea what's going to fail next, I suppose the cats or something on the exhaust side.

[Jeff23spl]

oh shit sorry for you!

[Fstrnyou]

First thing to do is change your plugs and check for boost leaks.

Kidding aside, at least you have a story behind it. My built motor going kaput is just low compression.

[mituc]

Pulled the pistons today. I was more interested in the one that took the hits.

[Fstrnyou]

Yep. I figured broken ringlands was the problem.

That piston (and head) took a beating getting you home. But it got you home. Winning.

[Jeff23spl]

4032 ? It lasted quite well, it could have been worst if the piston exploded and let the rod break the bloc....Was the bearing damaged ?
I also had a screw falling into an engine recently but it was not the same level of problems with a small lawnmower tractor and a low cost engine. The screw was small enough to fit inside the chamber without too much damages

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl 4032 ? It lasted quite well, it could have been worst if the piston exploded and let the rod break the bloc....Was the bearing damaged ?

Yes, Mahle 4032.
The rod is untouched, the bearings are clean, the engine builder decided to reuse the crank for the new motor even though I had a spare one which was also within the factory specs.

Also the block may have a pretty good chance of being good after boring it to 88mm.

[Jeff23spl]

repost

[MSMS3]

So sorry. I’ve been following your posts and learning from your experience for years. Glad it wasn’t worse and that the bottom end other than pistons and bore are good and can be reused. I hope the cylinders clear up with the bore to 88mm. Probably not enough room to sleeve it.

Jeff’s story reminded me of an experience I had with my first car at age 16. It was a Fiat 1100 sedan. Freshly rebuilt engine. Driving home from school the tires locked up, just like the diff was frozen. Turned out it had sucked in a nut from the air filter housing that had not been installed with a lock washer. The nut stuck between the piston and cylinder head combustion chamber. When we pulled the head, the top of the piston had a neat hexagonal imprint of the nut. We removed the nut, saw no other damage, no bent valves, put it back together and it ran like a champ. The little engine, even freshly rebuilt, just didn’t make enough power to hurt itself. Not unlike Jeff’s lawn mower. I sort of had a four door lawn mower, anyway. I believe the engine made about 40 bhp.

Keep us posted on the rebuild. I hope the fabricator that failed to retrieve that piece of metal steps up and helps you. Probably a good guy who just made a mistake. But actions have consequences.

[mituc]

It was a fun day:

MazdaSpeed Forums Presents: YouTube

MazdaSpeed Forums Presents: YouTube

...especially when the engine stalled the moment I stepped on the clutch for more than one second to pull over. That's when I knew I fucked up.