Modifying the battery tray?

[biggman026]

I'm gearing up for my bnr s3 install, getting all the parts together, and I'm stuck on one question.

I would like to get a JBR 3.5" intake, but really don't want to have to get the smaller battery tray and go to a 51R battery. I just bought a brand new interstate mtp-40R battery about 6 months ago when my old one died, and I really don't want to replace a brand new $150 battery when theres nothing wrong with it.

Has anyone attempted modifying the stock battery tray to fit with a 3.5" intake instead of going to a 51R size battery and tray? I've got a cs tip and intake right now, and it looks to me like the only place there isn't any room to go to a 3.5" tip is where the battery tray sticks out for the latch to hold the battery down. From what I can tell, it looks like there would be enough room for the 40r battery itself if the tray was cut down. I'be looked it up, and the 51R battery is about 1.5" thinner and shorter than the 40R. Looking at pics of the 3.5" intake installed with the small battery tray, there seems to be more than 1.5" clearance between the intake and the battery.

I've searched all over this site and Google, but can't find anyone talking about whether or not this would work.

[Lex]

The MS6 has more room in that section. An MS3 would not fit a 3.5" intake. A little trick you can use is to slot the battery tray holes and move it as close to the strut tower as possible.

[biggman026]

Originally Posted by Lex The MS6 has more room in that section. An MS3 would not fit a 3.5" intake. A little trick you can use is to slot the battery tray holes and move it as close to the strut tower as possible.

That's a great idea! I think I'll slot the holes in the tray first and push it back as far as it will go, and then if I need to just trim about an inch off the width and length of the battery tray (leaving just enough width to cut a notch for the hook holding down the battery).

I was stuck between the JBR 3.5" and the 3" (I don't wanna worry about maxing out the 3") but I feel confident enough with this plan to go 3.5".

[redboat]

Originally Posted by Lex The MS6 has more room in that section. An MS3 would not fit a 3.5" intake. A little trick you can use is to slot the battery tray holes and move it as close to the strut tower as possible.

That's what I did, and I fit a 3" CPe and 3" HTP inlet on mine.

[BigjohnB20]

Lex knows his stuff, but he does have a 3...I am not sure a 3.5 will fit with the stock tray (at least fit well). I have a stock size Corksport intake/TIP on now and in order to get it to fit with their cold air box, I've had quite the struggle. It is TIGHT getting it to fit with my stock size battery/tray. I have slotted the shit out of the stock tray and removed two different wire harness clips and it just barely fits. I moved the tray over so far towards the strut tower that now my stock tie down doesn't really fit very well and does not hold the battery very tightly.

I am actually pretty unhappy wiht the way it stands now and am looking for alternatives. I have read that moving the batt/tray back towards the firewall may help some too and shouldn't affect the tie down as much, but I need to find a few minutes to look at doing this. Let us know how it all goes though as I have been eyeing a HTP 3" for a while now.

[Lex]

If you are concerned about maxing out the MAF, this is a non issue with the WP 3". The BNR S3 will not flow nearly enough air to max out the MAF. The injectors in the car will be maxed out long before the MAF as well.

[biggman026]

Originally Posted by Lex If you are concerned about maxing out the MAF, this is a non issue with the WP 3". The BNR S3 will not flow nearly enough air to max out the MAF. The injectors in the car will be maxed out long before the MAF as well.

OK, that makes my decision for me then. What had me concerned was another thread (I'd have to go back and try to find it) where someone posted that they were pushing 340 g/s with the 3" on a k04, and you had a post in the thread stating that the HTP 3" intake maxed earliest of the 3" intakes at 440 g/s. I was worried that the bnr might hit or come close to that 440 g/s mark but couldn't find anything on point. If a 3" will work on the bnr that'll be fine, won't have to worry about the battery.

[DSIT995]

Originally Posted by Lex If you are concerned about maxing out the MAF, this is a non issue with the WP 3". The BNR S3 will not flow nearly enough air to max out the MAF. The injectors in the car will be maxed out long before the MAF as well.

This is what I did... stock batt and ecu placement with bnr3 and 3"wp. So far so good

tapping.... tap tap

[shawn.]

i'm rocking a jbr 3.5" intake with nothing done to the battery/battery tray. only had to relocate the ecu, i ended up putting it on the fuse box cover.

[boostdmazda3]

i was having the same concerns. I wasn't to hyped on it but I just dished out the money for the jbr small battery box and a new 51r battery. You can always sell the current battery.

[SLOWHATCH]

Also running a 3.5" htp intake with stock battery. Just make a bracket to relocate ecu to front of battery.

[biggman026]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the input. I've just gotta go buy some 6AN hose and some new exhaust bolts and studs (just in case any of the old studs break or strip).

I'm doing most of my planning based on the how-to threads created by himurax13 and Ziggo, incredibly useful stuff.

BNR Stage 3 Checklist.

BNR S3 Swap How To

Quick question while I'm thinking about it (I'll be starting a build thread in the near future once I've got everything together) - himurax notes near the top of his original post that you should buy 10 new exhaust nuts for the exhaust manifold if you're going to remove it during the install. In section 1.8 of ziggo's how to he appears to state that these are 14mm nuts. Would I be correct that these should be grade 8 14mm exhaust nuts?

I'd tag himurax13 and Ziggo, but.....I have no idea how to do that :/

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by biggman026 Thanks guys, I appreciate all the input. I've just gotta go buy some 6AN hose and some new exhaust bolts and studs (just in case any of the old studs break or strip). I'm doing most of my planning based on the how-to threads created by himurax13 and Ziggo, incredibly useful stuff. BNR Stage 3 Checklist. BNR S3 Swap How To Quick question while I'm thinking about it (I'll be starting a build thread in the near future once I've got everything together) - himurax notes near the top of his original post that you should buy 10 new exhaust nuts for the exhaust manifold if you're going to remove it during the install. In section 1.8 of ziggo's how to he appears to state that these are 14mm nuts. Would I be correct that these should be grade 8 14mm exhaust nuts? I'd tag himurax13 and Ziggo, but.....I have no idea how to do that :/

The OEM Exhaust nuts are 14mm. Since the exhaust nuts are an oval shaped locking variety, I recommend replacing instead of reusing.

The ones from Edge Auto are either 15 or 17mm, don't remember offhand.

The copper looking ones from Edge Auto are beefier than the OEM nuts and I haven never had one back out.

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by himurax13 The ones from Edge Auto are either 15 or 17mm, don't remember offhand.

15mm

[skiptowncat]

@himurax13; @Ziggo;

[biggman026]

I think I found the 10mm nuts and studs here:

Year - 2007 - Mazda - Mazdaspeed 6 - Engine - Accessories - EdgeAutosport.com

But I can't find any 15-17 mm nuts. Would those 10mm nuts work on the manifold ?

I think I found the 10mm nuts and studs on Edge auto, but can't find any that are 15-17mm. Would these nuts work for the exhaust manifold studs too?

Year - 2007 - Mazda - Mazdaspeed 6 - Engine - Accessories - EdgeAutosport.com

Scratch that. I'm an idiot. Those are the 15mm nuts you spoke of. I was confusing the internal and wrench head diameter.

[Ziggo]

Those are the 15mm nuts you spoke of. I was confusing the internal and wrench head diameter.

Seems like you got it all figured out, 10mm studs, but the size of the head varies.

If its worth anything I agree with replacing. I had two of the stock ones back out on me, I replaced with big ass copper locking thread nuts. I just got lucky that they were both easily accessible

[alphasaur]

seems like everyone commenting has a speed 3....

I have a speed 6 (also had a speed 3 with a 3", removing ecu would allow for 3.5 on speed 3 easily IMO) with a 3" htp and I modified the tray to sit closer to the strut tower/rear of the car. It's an extremely tight fit and I definitely don't see a 3.5" intake fitting.

[biggman026]

Thanks alphasaur, I'm gonna be going with a 3" JBR. It seems like consensus is that a 3" will pair well with the bnr s3, and I don't want to worry about fitment if I don't need to.

Do you guys think it's worth it to get new gaskets as well if I recently had my k04 replaced under warranty about 6k miles ago (smoking turbo tsb)? I figure the gaskets should be relatively good to go at this point if they were replaced with the turbo. The nuts and studs I'm definitely buying since I tend to have terrible luck with them, but the gaskets I'm ambivalent on (not to mention that the gaskets are exponentially more expensive than the nuts and studs lol).

[alphasaur]

Originally Posted by biggman026 Thanks alphasaur, I'm gonna be going with a 3" JBR. It seems like consensus is that a 3" will pair well with the bnr s3, and I don't want to worry about fitment if I don't need to. Do you guys think it's worth it to get new gaskets as well if I recently had my k04 replaced under warranty about 6k miles ago (smoking turbo tsb)? I figure the gaskets should be relatively good to go at this point if they were replaced with the turbo. The nuts and studs I'm definitely buying since I tend to have terrible luck with them, but the gaskets I'm ambivalent on (not to mention that the gaskets are exponentially more expensive than the nuts and studs lol).

I would reuse gaskets with copper spray, but am cheap.

[biggman026]

I went with a 3" full WP JBR intake and the only problem I have is that the TIP rubs against the brake booster pretty hard. I had to stick a piece of silicone between the TIP and the brake booster to protect the TIP. Fitment really isn't the best on the MS6.