And the record begins with a song of rebellion...

[mikelevi]

Got the spacer in on the manifold, checked all connections and re-assembled. Battery fully charged and still just cranked without getting going. Took a couple logs and watched the Act fuel pressure. First 10 cranks never registered above 50 psi. Then all the sudden it sounded like it was getting some gas or fire but still wouldn't connect. Noticed the psi went to 800-1000 and stayed there even after crank attempts. I gave up for the night, have way too much other shit to do.

[mikelevi]

Here are some logs if anyone wants to throw in their 2 cents.

[mikelevi]

Got it running. Sounds like complete shit but maybe I just need to let it run a while.

[SpeedRebirth]

If you get it running you need to keep an eye on fuel pressure because the first two logs only show 70 psi which means the HPFP isn't doing it's job. Do NOT let it run if pressure is that low. Also, log it

[mikelevi]

Fuel pressure is stable at 570 at idle, and 800-2000 under driving load. My idle pulley is a fucking wibble wobble. Not sure if the belt is crooked on it or what but it's shaking like a dog shitting razor blades.

Also hearing like a rocks in dryer coming from the far left side of the fuel rail/manifold area. Not really sure what that is? Power steering fluid was almost empty on start up.

Cruising around under really light load and registered a 7.7 kr. Can it get that high for partial throttle?

[MSP611]

i would say ur rattle and idler pulley is the culprit of ur high KR... fix those bitches asap and see...

[mikelevi]

So Im confused here. When I removed the VTCS i removed the actuator rod and everything with it and tapped and plug the hole. I was looking though edge and see this



Yeah, I definitely removed that. I though the TPS was inside the Throttle body? Making sure I dont need to reinstall this with the cut actuator to engage the sensor.

[MSP611]

Originally Posted by mikelevi So Im confused here. When I removed the VTCS i removed the actuator rod and everything with it and tapped and plug the hole. I was looking though edge and see this Yeah, I definitely removed that. I though the TPS was inside the Throttle body? Making sure I dont need to reinstall this with the cut actuator to engage the sensor.

Tht is the VCTS actuator sensor if im not mistaken (may not be 100% technical name) but it goes to the actual actuator on the VCTS and i think is wat sent the signal to the ecu to tell If VCTS was fully open or closed...

You will throw a code without tht sensor unless u wired in a resistor.

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by MSP611 Tht is the VCTS actuator sensor if im not mistaken (may not be 100% technical name) but it goes to the actual actuator on the VCTS and i think is wat sent the signal to the ecu to tell If VCTS was fully open or closed... You will throw a code without tht sensor unless u wired in a resistor.

Edge has it listed as the Throttle Position Sensor, I was just making sure. I looked up the images of the TPS on Ellis and it says its in the TB. Ok, I'll stop fretting.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Just an FYI for future reference when @maisonvi; and myself accidentally flooded some B12 into his cylinders it ran like crap for a bit.....and smelled awful. We just hooked a battery charger up and cranked that SOB until it started. That's the remedy.

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff Just an FYI for future reference when @maisonvi; and myself accidentally flooded some B12 into his cylinders it ran like crap for a bit.....and smelled awful. We just hooked a battery charger up and cranked that SOB until it started. That's the remedy.

Same here, I think I was being a bit of pussy cranking it. It just didnt want to overheat the starter. It took a good 10-15 second crank to get it going. Plus the first 20 cranks did not register above 75 for fuel pressure. I think I'll definitely run meth so I dont have to clean the valves as much, that job really was a pain in the ass.

[SpeedRebirth]

This is how my tensioner and idler pulley looks like after 70k. Made an aweful sound at 50%+ throttle and it sounds like yours is way worse. Just ordered the CS pulley kit to replace them

[mikelevi]

Here is a log with that weird KR just for reference.

[mikelevi]

I dont know if its my imagination or not? Does the VTCS delete and PnP manifold or injector seal upgrade make any difference in noise. Either that or cleaning the valves, did anyone hear it sound different?

https://youtu.be/abUlWw54x_w

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by mikelevi I dont know if its my imagination or not? Does the VTCS delete and PnP manifold or injector seal upgrade make any difference in noise. Either that or cleaning the valves, did anyone hear it sound different? https://youtu.be/abUlWw54x_w

Cleaning valves and injector seals wont make a difference in sound. VTCS delete will make the car sound like shit on cold start but I believe that goes away once warm. Not sure about PnP mani.

The clicking sounds like normal injector noise. However the harmonic rhythm that seems to be in sync with the serpentine belt doesn't sound right to me.

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by ItsNox Cleaning valves and injector seals wont make a difference in sound. VTCS delete will make the car sound like shit on cold start but I believe that goes away once warm. Not sure about PnP mani. The clicking sounds like normal injector noise. However the harmonic rhythm that seems to be in sync with the serpentine belt doesn't sound right to me.

Yeah the clicking Im use to around the HPFP, but this clicking is coming from the manifold area. As for the harmonic rhythm noise Im almost positive is coming from the idle pulley.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Yeah the clicking Im use to around the HPFP, but this clicking is coming from the manifold area. As for the harmonic rhythm noise Im almost positive is coming from the idle pulley.

Do you think its possible you fucked something up when you torqued the mani down without a gasket? Maybe consider pulling the mani and inspecting the injectors/seals. Perhaps you jacked something up when hulking out after rounding out that injector bolt.

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by ItsNox Do you think its possible you fucked something up when you torqued the mani down without a gasket? Maybe consider pulling the mani and inspecting the injectors/seals. Perhaps you jacked something up when hulking out after rounding out that injector bolt.

Its probable that I fucked something up, ha. I guess the only thing I can do, is take it apart and look at it when I install the turbo. To me its more unlikely that the injectors would be messed up. The seals went on great, the holes were clean and everything seated correctly. If anything its the manifold or valves. Since that one fucker wouldnt seat right maybe its still not seating properly?

[Cheapspeed]

My car has hit up to 8kr at part throttle. But I have low compression in #3 and maybe #2 now.

[MSP611]

doubt u did anything to the valves unless u left a scribe in there lol... i would change ur pulleys/belt and see where tht takes the sound and go from there before i rip apart the intake mani again

[Cdnspeed6]

start the car without the Serp Belt to see if the noise goes away, the car will run without it just not too long as it'll be running off the battery

[mikelevi]

I'll be taking out the K04 this week and dropping in the turbo. Reading through old build threads and others to make sure I have everything and is good before I dive in.

Need a little clarification. Do I need a different set up from from is already on the turbo for the oil return line? Will the installed braided line not work for the MS6?

From the photos on edge's EWG kit, it looked like this line comes with the kit for the speed 6 but other threads are making me think otherwise, and a ridiculous fabbed S fitting is needed to for the return.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by mikelevi I'll be taking out the K04 this week and dropping in the turbo. Reading through old build threads and others to make sure I have everything and is good before I dive in. Need a little clarification. Do I need a different set up from from is already on the turbo for the oil return line? Will the installed braided line not work for the MS6? From the photos on edge's EWG kit, it looked like this line comes with the kit for the speed 6 but other threads are making me think otherwise, and a ridiculous fabbed S fitting is needed to for the return.

I was under the ridiculous fabbed S line fitting impression. Thats part of why I went BNR. Drop in. Probably gonna go S4 for the same reason.

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by ItsNox I was under the ridiculous fabbed S line fitting impression. Thats part of why I went BNR. Drop in. Probably gonna go S4 for the same reason.

Ughh, if it isn't one thing it's another.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Ughh, if it isn't one thing it's another.

@Code Monkey; has a thread floating around here. When i have time I'll dig it up.

This might help

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...thread-188010/

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by mikelevi I'll be taking out the K04 this week and dropping in the turbo. Reading through old build threads and others to make sure I have everything and is good before I dive in. Need a little clarification. Do I need a different set up from from is already on the turbo for the oil return line? Will the installed braided line not work for the MS6? From the photos on edge's EWG kit, it looked like this line comes with the kit for the speed 6 but other threads are making me think otherwise, and a ridiculous fabbed S fitting is needed to for the return.

I used the fitting that came with the kit. Worked for me. If you want an AN-10 fitting I think I have 1 or 2, though. I bought it with the same thoughts you had about the drain, I have and MS3 with stock manifold, though.

[pyro]

It wont work. Been there... Do you have the sharp bend for the wastegate?

[Code Monkey]

Hahahahhhahhahaa, I am still recovering from that fail, good luck OP.

[mikelevi]

FUCK, anyone having extended deals on an S3/S4? Thinking about just starting over and selling this thing.

[Code Monkey]

Meh, at least try to see if the fucking line fits on your car or how close it is. You could probably shave off 1/8" or a bit more from the oil line flange, or if you know exactly the angle the line should run at, you could cut off a couple threads from the flange and have that big nut welded or spot welded to the flange?

[ItsNox]

Im with @Code Monkey; give that bitch a go. We need moar EWG goodness. My buddy hacked up his k04 line and used an AN fitting + flexible stainless line and got it to work on his IWG GT3076. It was something like that at least.

[mikelevi]

Well I have a potential buyer lined up if I want it. I read that I can just cut the return line in half and attached a -10AN fitting?

If I can get my money back from the GTX, and instead go with S3/S4, might be worthwhile especially if someone is still running a deal. I do like to fact that I can be 800 RPM more responsive, and honestly, my motor build wouldn't be until next summer, who knows if Id ever get to it.

With my goal of pushing the limits of the stock block 375-400 awhp, should I just switch up the build? Any issues with the lines on the S4? I know its the same housing but the issue is the EWG hotside, no fitment issues right?

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Well I have a potential buyer lined up if I want it. I read that I can just cut the return line in half and attached a -10AN fitting? If I can get my money back from the GTX, and instead go with S3/S4, might be worthwhile especially if someone is still running a deal. I do like to fact that I can be 800 RPM more responsive, and honestly, my motor build wouldn't be until next summer, who knows if Id ever get to it. With my goal of pushing the limits of the stock block 375-400 awhp, should I just switch up the build? Any issues with the lines on the S4? I know its the same housing but the issue is the EWG hotside, no fitment issues right?

Whoa now buddy maybe I never read your power goals prior. If your goals are sub 400, S3 is the way to go for simplicitys sake. I'm hitting 375-390awhp/390awtq on my BNR + meths. And I'm not even using meth for fuel nor do I have a down pipe. My tuner knows I want my tune a bit conservative so I'm sure there is still a little room on the table. I can find a Vdyno if you like.

S4 if you want 450. When I build I'll be dropping in an S4.

[Micha]

All the BNR turbos are IWG.

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by Micha All the BNR turbos are IWG.

I'm aware of that, but would there be a fitment issue with the stock return line on the s4? I wanted to go EWG because I am catless I don't know if I'd run into bad creep issues on the s4. Welding in a cat might be a better trade off with low end gains.

Originally Posted by ItsNox Whoa now buddy maybe I never read your power goals prior. If your goals are sub 400, S3 is the way to go for simplicitys sake. I'm hitting 375-390awhp/390awtq on my BNR + meths. And I'm not even using meth for fuel nor do I have a down pipe. My tuner knows I want my tune a bit conservative so I'm sure there is still a little room on the table. I can find a Vdyno if you like. S4 if you want 450. When I build I'll be dropping in an S4.

Well my goal was building a motor on the side next year, but I change my mind quickly. I think if I get to that 375-400 I just might be content. What the curve look like on the S4, still slow low end? Maybe I should just go with the s3 and call it a day?

[taf0422]

Originally Posted by mikelevi I'm aware of that, but would there be a fitment issue with the stock return line on the s4? I wanted to go EWG because I am catless I don't know if I'd run into bad creep issues on the s4. Welding in a cat might be a better trade off with low end gains.

No issues with the return line. Fits like a glove. Also zero creep issues on the s4 either even with catless. Take it from someone who knows

[ZX299]

I'm running the GTX3076 on my MS6 albeit IWG. For the drain line I bought two 60 degree an-10 fittings, a weld on an-10 fitting for the cut stock drain line. The 60 degree fitting seem to be almost perfect depending on where you cut the stock drain line, I had to slightly bend one of them to get it line up.

[MSP611]

honestly ur gunna have to build ur motor anyways eventually regardless... ur not gunna last for ever at those power levels and with an s3/s4 u make torque a lot lower which is the culprit for ZZB on stock block for these cars...

i would just figure out the drain line stop fuckin around and get it in...

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Well my goal was building a motor on the side next year, but I change my mind quickly. I think if I get to that 375-400 I just might be content. What the curve look like on the S4, still slow low end? Maybe I should just go with the s3 and call it a day?

I haven't seen much on the S4. But it spools nicely if I remember right. 3-500rpms faster than the CS turbo. That's my area of concern. I need response. If in your shoes I would go s3 first. Then bigger when built. Obviously, because that's what I'm doing now lols. Simple is important with these cars IMO. The S3V2 is much much less likely to creep than the first gen. That is why he revised it; to address creep. Give Byran a call at BNR. I've spoken to him every time I've called BNR up which is cool.

Originally Posted by MSP611 honestly ur gunna have to build ur motor anyways eventually regardless... ur not gunna last for ever at those power levels and with an s3/s4 u make torque a lot lower which is the culprit for ZZB on stock block for these cars... i would just figure out the drain line stop fuckin around and get it in...

Could not agree more about the built motor. At this point building is considered maintenance lol. It's a windy road


Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by ItsNox I haven't seen much on the S4. But it spools nicely if I remember right. 3-500rpms faster than the CS turbo. That's my area of concern. I need response. If in your shoes I would go s3 first. Then bigger when built. Obviously, because that's what I'm doing now lols. Simple is important with these cars IMO. The S3V2 is much much less likely to creep than the first gen. That is why he revised it; to address creep. Give Byran a call at BNR. I've spoken to him every time I've called BNR up which is cool. Could not agree more about the built motor. At this point building is considered maintenance lol. It's a windy road Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Unfortunately Im just looking for the easiest drop in right now. Not to get too deep but our dog has cancer, we're going through a home renovation and refi just a ton of shit on my plate. Wifes been supportive but wants this wrapped up. I can honestly go bigger later on if I choose to. Even with hours of research and reading, the work is more than I expected.