And the record begins with a song of rebellion...

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by Micha All the BNR turbos are IWG.

I'm aware of that, but would there be a fitment issue with the stock return line on the s4? I wanted to go EWG because I am catless I don't know if I'd run into bad creep issues on the s4. Welding in a cat might be a better trade off with low end gains.

Originally Posted by ItsNox Whoa now buddy maybe I never read your power goals prior. If your goals are sub 400, S3 is the way to go for simplicitys sake. I'm hitting 375-390awhp/390awtq on my BNR + meths. And I'm not even using meth for fuel nor do I have a down pipe. My tuner knows I want my tune a bit conservative so I'm sure there is still a little room on the table. I can find a Vdyno if you like. S4 if you want 450. When I build I'll be dropping in an S4.

Well my goal was building a motor on the side next year, but I change my mind quickly. I think if I get to that 375-400 I just might be content. What the curve look like on the S4, still slow low end? Maybe I should just go with the s3 and call it a day?

[MSP611]

honestly ur gunna have to build ur motor anyways eventually regardless... ur not gunna last for ever at those power levels and with an s3/s4 u make torque a lot lower which is the culprit for ZZB on stock block for these cars...

i would just figure out the drain line stop fuckin around and get it in...

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Well my goal was building a motor on the side next year, but I change my mind quickly. I think if I get to that 375-400 I just might be content. What the curve look like on the S4, still slow low end? Maybe I should just go with the s3 and call it a day?

I haven't seen much on the S4. But it spools nicely if I remember right. 3-500rpms faster than the CS turbo. That's my area of concern. I need response. If in your shoes I would go s3 first. Then bigger when built. Obviously, because that's what I'm doing now lols. Simple is important with these cars IMO. The S3V2 is much much less likely to creep than the first gen. That is why he revised it; to address creep. Give Byran a call at BNR. I've spoken to him every time I've called BNR up which is cool.

Originally Posted by MSP611 honestly ur gunna have to build ur motor anyways eventually regardless... ur not gunna last for ever at those power levels and with an s3/s4 u make torque a lot lower which is the culprit for ZZB on stock block for these cars... i would just figure out the drain line stop fuckin around and get it in...

Could not agree more about the built motor. At this point building is considered maintenance lol. It's a windy road


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[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by ItsNox I haven't seen much on the S4. But it spools nicely if I remember right. 3-500rpms faster than the CS turbo. That's my area of concern. I need response. If in your shoes I would go s3 first. Then bigger when built. Obviously, because that's what I'm doing now lols. Simple is important with these cars IMO. The S3V2 is much much less likely to creep than the first gen. That is why he revised it; to address creep. Give Byran a call at BNR. I've spoken to him every time I've called BNR up which is cool. Could not agree more about the built motor. At this point building is considered maintenance lol. It's a windy road Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Unfortunately Im just looking for the easiest drop in right now. Not to get too deep but our dog has cancer, we're going through a home renovation and refi just a ton of shit on my plate. Wifes been supportive but wants this wrapped up. I can honestly go bigger later on if I choose to. Even with hours of research and reading, the work is more than I expected.

[MSP611]

find a welder in ur area if ur tht concerned and weld an AN fitting to the stock block flange and put some 45* or 60* fittings on it and BAM u have an oil drain

[mikelevi]

Also looks like Id have to consider scream pipe modding. Some people are having issues on exhaust exit from what I read. With these issues on top of inefficiencies in the WG when needing a 90 flange; Im selling it and going either S3 or S4. Sorry guys

Called BNR, sounds like the S4 has zero issues with fluid fittings and sounds much more appealing to me than the S3. Fits my power goals with a little room to grow if I want it.

[Micha]

Why don't you stay K04? That is the cheapest and easiest setup possible.

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by Micha Why don't you stay K04? That is the cheapest and easiest setup possible.

seals are busted and its already the second one.

[mikelevi]

Alright, went with the S3. S4 was tempting but when/if I go built motor I'll go EWG then. Plus I heard a rumor today about the S5 EWG that will be out by then. Their shit seems legit with what seems like half the platform on here running their stuff. Plus while stock motor better low end is appealing on the MS6 for DD. Thanks for your guys help and advice so far.

Btw: RPM is the shit. I've been using someone else for my aftermarket parts but they just pulled a nice move today and got a lot more business from me for the future.

[taf0422]

Originally Posted by mikelevi I'm aware of that, but would there be a fitment issue with the stock return line on the s4? I wanted to go EWG because I am catless I don't know if I'd run into bad creep issues on the s4. Welding in a cat might be a better trade off with low end gains.

No issues with the return line. Fits like a glove. Also zero creep issues on the s4 either even with catless. Take it from someone who knows

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Alright, went with the S3. S4 was tempting but when/if I go built motor I'll go EWG then. Plus I heard a rumor today about the S5 EWG that will be out by then. Their shit seems legit with what seems like half the platform on here running their stuff. Plus while stock motor better low end is appealing on the MS6 for DD. Thanks for your guys help and advice so far. Btw: RPM is the shit. I've been using someone else for my aftermarket parts but they just pulled a nice move today and got a lot more business from me for the future.

Yea Im very happy with RPM. Thats who I scooped my BNR up from. I was doing the same; buying my shit from another Vendor. Now they're the first place I check. They'll price match anyone as well.

After all the crap you've gone through with the car so far you're gonna be happy to be able to just drop that turbo in.

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by ItsNox Yea Im very happy with RPM. Thats who I scooped my BNR up from. I was doing the same; buying my shit from another Vendor. Now they're the first place I check. They'll price match anyone as well. After all the crap you've gone through with the car so far you're gonna be happy to be able to just drop that turbo in.

Did you take the manifold off and remove the return from the block when installing? Just reading through some forum post that some on the MS6 either left the manifold installed and/or left the return drain bolted to the block and only removed the bolts on the CHRA? Seems to be a dozen ways to install, just trying to figure out which one is best.

[Code Monkey]

You can leave the EM in.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Did you take the manifold off and remove the return from the block when installing? Just reading through some forum post that some on the MS6 either left the manifold installed and/or left the return drain bolted to the block and only removed the bolts on the CHRA? Seems to be a dozen ways to install, just trying to figure out which one is best.

Yes and yes. We tried and tried to do it without removing the exhaust mani. It was not possible for me. We spent more time trying to make it fit with the EM than I spent taking it on/off. We had already taken the hood and the windshield cowl off. EM came off in 10 minutes. Did not want to risk jacking up the oil drain line at the block so it was removed. I spent a good 30 minutes reattaching the oil drain line to the block once the BNR was in. Finicky gasket kept popping off and could not get bolts lined up perfectly or get more than 1/4 turn on them. I was also nervous because a buddy had cross threaded one of these bolts and it really fucked his couch.

Originally Posted by Code Monkey You can leave the EM in.

I wish I could have.

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Alright, went with the S3. S4 was tempting but when/if I go built motor I'll go EWG then. Plus I heard a rumor today about the S5 EWG that will be out by then. Their shit seems legit with what seems like half the platform on here running their stuff. Plus while stock motor better low end is appealing on the MS6 for DD. Thanks for your guys help and advice so far. Btw: RPM is the shit. I've been using someone else for my aftermarket parts but they just pulled a nice move today and got a lot more business from me for the future.

I'll think you'll be happy with the S3. I kind of regret going with a 3076. Having no response in 2nd gear in traffic sucks, sometimes I have to drop to 1st to be able to get aggressive, it really spools that slowly. On the flipside, cruising around town from low to mid rpm is much more relaxed. I think I could pick up a couple hundred rpm if I switched to a 3'' catback (still stock catback/ewg), but don't care enough to drop 400-700 dollars on the piping.

[mikelevi]

BNR will be here Friday and working on it all weekend. Also picked up a Brand new AEM 30-3000 kit for 200 bones off someone. Will definitely get the base map dialed in, the e85 mix next, and after that meth. Looking forward to never having to clean the valves again!

Trying to figure out if the oil return gaskets come with the kit or not? I have a sneaking feeling they are going to need replaced. Was looking last night and I have oil all over the backside of the block under the turbo.

When the stealership replaced the turbo and head after an ultimate fail on their part, I pray to god they didnt fuck up the threads on the return block side. We will see.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by mikelevi BNR will be here Friday and working on it all weekend. Also picked up a Brand new AEM 30-3000 kit for 200 bones off someone. Will definitely get the base map dialed in, the e85 mix next, and after that meth. Looking forward to never having to clean the valves again! Trying to figure out if the oil return gaskets come with the kit or not? I have a sneaking feeling they are going to need replaced. Was looking last night and I have oil all over the backside of the block under the turbo. When the stealership replaced the turbo and head after an ultimate fail on their part, I pray to god they didnt fuck up the threads on the return block side. We will see.

Thats great it will arrive tomorrow. I was the first person on backorder and had to wait almost 3 months. They do not include the oil line to block gasket. I reused mine. I also bought new turbo to mani & downpipe to turbo gaskets.

[mikelevi]

Hello and goodbye.

And to note: it came with all new gaskets, oil return, dp to mani, mani to turbo!

[mikelevi]

Fuck you!

[mikelevi]

Does the water line still go like the stock like this? Other install had it on facing down??

[mikelevi]

Also, I forgot my stock banjo bolt at home (using my dads garage to install) is the restrictor bolt ok until I get home, or should I drill It out to stock specs? Need to get specs if I do.

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Does the water line still go like the stock like this? Other install had it on facing down??

No, that's wrong, read this.

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey No, that's wrong, read this.

I'm an idiot. Had the return and input mixed up on pics, I have it right

[mikelevi]

For GS 3 port:
1-TIP
2-wastegate
3-tapped turbo barb

?

[ItsNox]

Pictars!

[Code Monkey]

Look at the routing from Stratified and match their port numbering to the GS EBCS.

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by mikelevi For GS 3 port: 1-TIP 2-wastegate 3-tapped turbo barb ?

Here is a picture



sent from my Nexus 6P

[mikelevi]

Alright, got it running, no leaks and no issues so far! Babied her home on a 10 mile drive back to the house, slowly working my way into boost.

Still waiting on Freektune to respond to me about the map for the full tune I bought. Dude hasnt responded to me in 9 days. Not sure if I pissed him off with a stupid question or hes pissed I changed turbos?

The best part; besides hearing the turbo spool and sounding like a fucking Diesel truck, was the fact that I hit 5 red lights and didnt smell burning oil once. Didnt know whether to cum or cry.

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Alright, got it running, no leaks and no issues so far! Babied her home on a 10 mile drive back to the house, slowly working my way into boost. Still waiting on Freektune to respond to me about the map for the full tune I bought. Dude hasnt responded to me in 9 days. Not sure if I pissed him off with a stupid question or hes pissed I changed turbos? The best part; besides hearing the turbo spool and sounding like a fucking Diesel truck, was the fact that I hit 5 red lights and didnt smell burning oil once. Didnt know whether to cum or cry.

Cry bc justin hates you now which means the mazda gods do too now lol @Justin@Freektune;

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Also, I forgot my stock banjo bolt at home (using my dads garage to install) is the restrictor bolt ok until I get home, or should I drill It out to stock specs? Need to get specs if I do.

I don't see that anyone answered this. Just put in the stock banjo bolt asap. The BNR needs the standard oil flow that the stock banjo bolt provides

[mikelevi]

Just some updates:

1: Im still an idiot

2: Justin responded to me. Didnt know that each time you email, your response gets pushed back in line. Since I asked so many questions prior to install I was pushing myself back everyday for a response.

3: Still no noticeable leaks anywhere. However when I turn the car off, I hear this gurgling sound coming from under the turbo. The water inline from the EGR looks ok but I cant see the water out line with everything in. Also, this issues Weird Electronic sound from Engine bay seems to be a pressure sound coming from the coolant system. I hear this sound now again and noticed when I relieve pressure from the radiator cap the pinging tone gets lower and the increments spread out. I have no idea what it is or means? Since I loss so much coolant during install I think I got a lot of air in the system. After refilling the coolant I had to drive to the airport. Kept it parked for 3 days and drove home. After 5 minutes on the highway I look down and see my temp needle reaching H. I turn the AP to coolant temp and I was sitting at 238. pulled the car over, and let it cool down. Repeated this for a 1/4 mile until I could get to a gas station. Look at the reservoir and was completely empty. Had to buy universal to fill. Filled 1/4 in the radiator and 1/4 in the reservoir. Made it home and the temp stabilizing at 210. Does anyone else run this hot normally? I could have sworn I was around 190 before the BNR Install. I also did EGR delete and TB bypass not sure if that effects it at all? So I scheduled a coolant flush at the dealership for tomorrow to flush and fill with FL22.

4: Logs. During a WOT log i hit 5.95 in 3rd gear around 5300 RPM and up. Justin seems to think it might be false knock. Not sure if EM bolts are loose or something else is rattling. I do not have a shroud on the IC I know those are prone to rattle. I wonder if it might be the fuel injector harness? I had one of the clips to secure it to the the rail break, do you think that hitting might be causing false kr? Also, my idler pulley isnt replaced yet, maybe sound is causing false KR at high RPM? Either way, I need to go through and check to make sure everything is tight.

[JgamB]

Pull the coolant feed line off the EGR - listen for glug glug glug as it burps the air out, add more coolant. You have a bunch of air in there.

Do it with the car off - you're not trying to circulate anything, it's just the highest point, and between having the radiator fill cap off and this line D/C'ed, it will burp. First hand experience.

[MSP611]

Also start car with rad cap off while cold... Turn heat on high and let coolant burp until it starts to get to operating temp..

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[mikelevi]

New coolant in, air out. Holding steady around 205-210. New map, new log and only .3 KR blip. I re-tightened the IC, the top IM bolts, and the bottom bolt that secures the steering pump. Noticed it was halfway out, not sure if any of those were causing a rattle or the new map cured the KR but happy.

Still need to install the shocks/Springs, idler pulley and the meth kit once the base map w/e85 is dialed in.

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by mikelevi New coolant in, air out. Holding steady around 205-210. New map, new log and only .3 KR blip. I re-tightened the IC, the top IM bolts, and the bottom bolt that secures the steering pump. Noticed it was halfway out, not sure if any of those were causing a rattle or the new map cured the KR but happy. Still need to install the shocks/Springs, idler pulley and the meth kit once the base map w/e85 is dialed in.

Whats the outside temp? Fmic? That seems high

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by blackms3_71 Whats the outside temp? Fmic? That seems high

Temp is 60s outside. cp-e TMIC. To note, I also changed the t-stat last year. Not sure if some run hotter than others?

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Temp is 60s outside. cp-e TMIC. To note, I also changed the t-stat last year. Not sure if some run hotter than others?

Some deff do. My original ran around 192. Then got stuck open so changed that and noticed a avg temp of about 200. It got atuck closed within 6 months. Changed it again and now run 187-190. I also have fmic

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by blackms3_71 Some deff do. My original ran around 192. Then got stuck open so changed that and noticed a avg temp of about 200. It got atuck closed within 6 months. Changed it again and now run 187-190. I also have fmic

So I looked at the tstat I installed last year and it's a duralast 51280 180 degree.not sure why I'm running so hot. Now it's between 210-214 while cruising.

[blackms3_71]

I only used dealer parts for the tstat. That does sound hot for just cruising in low temps. Try bluping the system again.

[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by blackms3_71 I only used dealer parts for the tstat. That does sound hot for just cruising in low temps. Try bluping the system again.

I burped it and also noticed when I pulled the coolant line to the BNR, the hose was a little kinked. Seems to be a tight angle from the EGR delete barb. Have no idea if this bit would cause any higher temps but thought I'd throw it in the mix.

Ok after burping still sits 205-210 and peak at 214. The tstat works so maybe I just throw on the aux fan controller. Don't want to mess with replacing it yet again.