And the record begins with a song of rebellion...

[MSP611]

Tht shouldn't cause high temps I'd say its ur tstat.. Get a lower temp one

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[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by MSP611 Tht shouldn't cause high temps I'd say its ur tstat.. Get a lower temp one Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

A lower one will not help. I am thinking his tstat is getting stuck. Do u notice ur ect going higher and higher b4 it comes back down? I would keep a very close eye on ect over the next few days. I am almost sure ur tstat is getting stuck.

What i mean is when temps get up to 214-217 do all of a sudden it drops to 190? Then kinda works its way back up.

[MD1032]

That sounds like air bubbles passing by the temperature sensor. Try bleeding more air from the system.

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[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by blackms3_71 A lower one will not help. I am thinking his tstat is getting stuck. Do u notice ur ect going higher and higher b4 it comes back down? I would keep a very close eye on ect over the next few days. I am almost sure ur tstat is getting stuck. What i mean is when temps get up to 214-217 do all of a sudden it drops to 190? Then kinda works its way back up.

It works its way to 190, sits for 3-4 mins and then slowly goes up to 200, sits, then 205, 210 and sits between 208-210. It will blip to 214 but back down to 208-210. When shifting it'll go down to around 200 but then right back up. I'll work on running it for a while with the front end raised. So I run it with the reservoir open not the actual radiator cap off correct?

I've been burping it each time I turn the car off. Slowly releasing air out of the radiator cap.

[Micha]

Are you sure your turbo coolant lines are ran right? I noticed mine was kinked too from the EGR outlet until I realized I had them hooked up backwards. No more kink.

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by mikelevi It works its way to 190, sits for 3-4 mins and then slowly goes up to 200, sits, then 205, 210 and sits between 208-210. It will blip to 214 but back down to 208-210. When shifting it'll go down to around 200 but then right back up. I'll work on running it for a while with the front end raised. So I run it with the reservoir open not the actual radiator cap off correct? I've been burping it each time I turn the car off. Slowly releasing air out of the radiator cap.

Sounds like a shitty tstat opening slowly. My money is on the tstat.

[MSP611]

Originally Posted by mikelevi It works its way to 190, sits for 3-4 mins and then slowly goes up to 200, sits, then 205, 210 and sits between 208-210. It will blip to 214 but back down to 208-210. When shifting it'll go down to around 200 but then right back up. I'll work on running it for a while with the front end raised. So I run it with the reservoir open not the actual radiator cap off correct? I've been burping it each time I turn the car off. Slowly releasing air out of the radiator cap.

No u run it with rad cap off, heater on full blast and only on cold start till up to operating temp. Thts the way I was taught when I was a tech.

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[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by MSP611 No u run it with rad cap off, heater on full blast and only on cold start till up to operating temp. Thts the way I was taught when I was a tech. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Ok so I went to burp with the radiator cap off but after it starts coolant just starts to overflow out of the top.

Not sure what's up or what I'm doing wrong. Stated on a cold engine. With the heater NOT on. I read you only turn the heater on once youre past 180

[MSP611]

I've always turned the heater on from the jump... And it overflows while cold? It shouldn't... How much coolant mix did u put in? And is ur overflow full?

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[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by MSP611 I've always turned the heater on from the jump... And it overflows while cold? It shouldn't... How much coolant mix did u put in? And is ur overflow full? Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Over flow is to the top line full. I'll pump some out of the reservoir to give it some room.

[mikelevi]

Ok so I put some towels around the rad cap and just let it flow out slowly as the car ran. Once the temp on the AP reached 183 the coolant level inside the radiator dropped down and the temp dropped to 165 on the ap.

It's been sitting at 165 now for 5-10 mins. Not sure if it's stuck open now or that's normal for no pressure in the cooling system.

Strike that. Went back up to 180 and is cycling with opening and closing the tstat. Levels inside the rad and lowering and raising above and below 180

[mikelevi]

Could I be having an issue with the radiator not cooling efficiently while cruising? Maybe just installing a aux fan switch will be cheaper/easier than a new radiator if that's the case. I'll take it for a test drive here shortly

[mikelevi]

Temp still 205-214. Going to just replace tstat to make sure it's just not flowing too slow.

[MSP611]

205-214 cruising? If so tht is high... Do u have a FMIC? I'd look into the fan switch if so not many people are having luck with aftermarket radiators on this platform being cost effective atleast. I would also duct ur radiator in as well with sheet metal or thick plastic.. Tht makes a world of difference if its getting the proper pressure. Also do u still have ur TMIC ducting?

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[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by MSP611 205-214 cruising? If so tht is high... Do u have a FMIC? I'd look into the fan switch if so not many people are having luck with aftermarket radiators on this platform being cost effective atleast. I would also duct ur radiator in as well with sheet metal or thick plastic.. Tht makes a world of difference if its getting the proper pressure. Also do u still have ur TMIC ducting? Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I have a TMIC still, CP-e. All ducting is still set up. Looking at the fins on the radiators they are in pretty bad shape, most are crushed on the front (have no idea how this happened) I know nothing about radiator efficiency so I don't know how much this effects this.

[MSP611]

Originally Posted by mikelevi I have a TMIC still, CP-e. All ducting is still set up. Looking at the fins on the radiators they are in pretty bad shape, most are crushed on the front (have no idea how this happened) I know nothing about radiator efficiency so I don't know how much this effects this.

Yes it can effect efficiency, now by how much im not sure, I am no expert either. It usually happens just over time with bugs and road debris... Good idea, and its free, is to duct the radiator in to improve positive pressure in front of the radiator and stop escaping free cooling air.

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[mikelevi]

Tried the aux fan controller. Doesn't do shit. Not dropping the temp at all, fan just continually runs. Guess I have to change the tstat and if that doesn't work I have no idea. Besides that, maps are coming along great. Up to 20 lbs of boost with zero kr. Having a lot of shifting backfire wonder if I have a slight leak somewhere.

Update on the catch can: not much in there besides some dirty milky substance.

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Tried the aux fan controller. Doesn't do shit. Not dropping the temp at all, fan just continually runs. Guess I have to change the tstat and if that doesn't work I have no idea. Besides that, maps are coming along great. Up to 20 lbs of boost with zero kr. Having a lot of shifting backfire wonder if I have a slight leak somewhere. Update on the catch can: not much in there besides some dirty milky substance.

Thermostats do give out...but they typically fail open, as in the engine would run cooler, not hotter.

[MSP611]

I would say its time to check ur rad and heat exchangers and see how messed up they are. See if u cam clean them out without damaging. I'm pretty sure u can dip them in a substance to help clean, but forgot the substance..

Also like I said I think ur over looking the thought of ducting ur rad in... This has shown major positive pressure increases in front of the rad (where u want it) and helps with radiator efficiency.. If ducting and cleaning don't work, I'd say its time to replace... Im Not sure on prices, but is think a stock rad would be relatively cheap and the way to go since many people aren't having great luck with aftermarket counter parts.

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[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed Thermostats do give out...but they typically fail open, as in the engine would run cooler, not hotter.

I just wonder if its not opening all the way? For the radiator to not cool below 208 on the highway, and the fan to not even budge it down at all makes me think it has to be the tstat. there is nothing wrong with the fins on the back side of the radiator.

Does the coolant flow through anything else that might be clogged up or causing a much slower flow rate besides the radiator. Not sure how heat works but I imagine coolant is involved some way ( I will go look it up later yes).

[MSP611]

Yes coolant is bypassed to the Heater core but only when the Heater is activated I believe... Check the whole radiator (mostly front) for blockage... Could be ur ac condenser is clogged as well, which in turn would make the rad cool less efficiently becuz it is in front of the rad. Ummm u could do a coolant TB bypass see if that helps then an egr delete both have coolant running towards them. Are the bnrs coolant cooled and oil lubed? Dunno if those tricks will really lower ur temps since coolant is only supposed to be for cold start on the TB and I don't remember why it's there for egr, but it can't hurt.

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[mikelevi]

Originally Posted by MSP611 Yes coolant is bypassed to the Heater core but only when the Heater is activated I believe... Check the whole radiator (mostly front) for blockage... Could be ur ac condenser is clogged as well, which in turn would make the rad cool less efficiently becuz it is in front of the rad. Ummm u could do a coolant TB bypass see if that helps then an egr delete both have coolant running towards them. Are the bnrs coolant cooled and oil lubed? Dunno if those tricks will really lower ur temps since coolant is only supposed to be for cold start on the TB and I don't remember why it's there for egr, but it can't hurt. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Ive done the TB bypass already. So something to consider. When I was testing the aux fan controller today, the temp did drop with the fan on, but only when I cranked the heater on as well. Does the coolant flow through the heater core when its not on?

[MSP611]

I'm not positive if its a constant flow, I do not think so. I think there is a check valve somewhere that only let's it flow when Heater is activated.. Reason why it takes a bit to get hot becuz fluid has to heat the exchanger first meaning its not in there all the time only when activated.

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[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Ive done the TB bypass already. So something to consider. When I was testing the aux fan controller today, the temp did drop with the fan on, but only when I cranked the heater on as well. Does the coolant flow through the heater core when its not on?

I believe it is bypassed until you turn it on.

[MSP611]

Originally Posted by blackms3_71 I believe it is bypassed until you turn it on.

BAM!!!! Confirmation possibly lol...

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[mikelevi]

Been reading on some other model forums. Seems some people have issues with the AC condenser. Also, just realized that my skid plate is still off. Im sure that creating low pressure up front as well.

[mikelevi]

Im going to check out the radiator for debris, duct in the front as suggested and put the skid plate back on. Just had a long conversation with the mazdaspeed mechanic and said most of the the speeds hes seen with box store Tstats run 205-210 and that its nothing to worry about. Im probably being overly paranoid.

[MSP611]

Probably but skid tray and ducting can't hurt and check out the rad and condenser.

U are listening young padawan lol!!!

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[mikelevi]

Its been a hellacious few months with work and taveling but progressing slowly. First time using the VD software. I corrected SAE, did Dynojet 1.09 with smoothing of 3. Not sure if there is anything else I need to do to make it more accurate.

Im through 4 revisions so far on the tune. From what I understand, Justin says boost targets are around 22 for the MS6 and we're getting close to that. I plan to tune for e85 next and then slap on the Meth.

I want to stay safe but obviously want to maximize power. The car feels great but its not necessarily blowing my asshole out yet. I assume I'll feel a bit when it comes to e85.

if anyone would like take a look or have any suggestions let me know.

[mikelevi]

Progress has been slow. Almost wrapped up on the base tune, hoping to start e85 soon. Car is running strong, last VD shows 314 after corrections so getting there.

I am experiencing one thing I'd like to try and correct. When I add some throttle to anything under 3K Im getting a loud fluttering. I dont hear anything while boosting above 3K, just low load acceleration. I think I want to change up my Forge BPV V1 to something that works better with my setup and BNR. I hear the forge has issues sometime surging and I dont know if that's not what my sound is. Whats a solid recommended BPV for 22-24 PSI?

[mikelevi]

http://youtu.be/xLwf9yPrn_o

http://youtu.be/xLwf9yPrn_o

here is a short video of the flutter sound. This was very minimal acceleration at 2K in 4th.

[mikelevi]

Just an update: Have since went FMIC with Tr8L core, single runner PnP stock IM, 3" CBE to 2 12226 Magnaflow mufflers. Reworking the tune with Justin and on the base touch up tune.

My G/S has increased over normal PnP IM and my BATs look better even with increased Amb temps but it feel like the car is slower to spool. Is that because of the larger diameter exhaust? Here is a VD Chart. Green is E33 with stock CBE, PnP IM and CPE TMIC. Red and Blue are base touchup tunes. Logs attached below.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Just an update: Have since went FMIC with Tr8L core, single runner PnP stock IM, 3" CBE to 2 12226 Magnaflow mufflers. Reworking the tune with Justin and on the base touch up tune. My G/S has increased over normal PnP IM and my BATs look better even with increased Amb temps but it feel like the car is slower to spool. Is that because of the larger diameter exhaust? Here is a VD Chart. Green is E33 with stock CBE, PnP IM and CPE TMIC. Red and Blue are base touchup tunes. Logs attached below.

No. It's the FMIC and/or the IM. Longer path and thicker diameter IC piping, bigger core that probably flows more, but slows down the air speed more. same idea for the single runner IM... has more air flow capacity, but the larger diameter slows down the air speed. One or any combination of those factors are probably what caused your spool issues. Going from ETS tmic to FMIC dropped a few hundred rpms of spool for me. Larger exhaust is more likely to help spool not hurt, but obviously that is only if the backpressure was a limiting factor.

[levon.mark]

I HATED my BNR s3 on my ms6. The gearing is too short for a turbo that small; its better for a speed3. I blew my stock engine too on that thing. I suggest not pushing anything more than 24psi. I ran my car 1 night at 26 psi just to increase 25-35whp and lost compression in 2 cylinders lol (I forced Nishan to send me that map even though he warned me !).

In my mind and self experience with using it on my built engine. The BNR s3 is only good for about 330whp on a stock engine.

When I pushed my BNR on my current built engine, I was running a cx racing FMIC core and stock exhaust manifold, so I never got it maxed out at the so said 400whp mark. I only about made 340 whp on VD and a 12.4 pass on crap tires last summer.

Note I use the correct CF 1.01 on VD and run on the same road every time for best comparison.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by levon.mark I HATED my BNR s3 on my ms6. The gearing is too short for a turbo that small; its better for a speed3. I blew my stock engine too on that thing. I suggest not pushing anything more than 24psi. I ran my car 1 night at 26 psi just to increase 25-35whp and lost compression in 2 cylinders lol (I forced Nishan to send me that map even though he warned me !). In my mind and self experience with using it on my built engine. The BNR s3 is only good for about 330whp on a stock engine. When I pushed my BNR on my current built engine, I was running a cx racing FMIC core and stock exhaust manifold, so I never got it maxed out at the so said 400whp mark. I only about made 340 whp on VD and a 12.4 pass on crap tires last summer. Note I use the correct CF 1.01 on VD and run on the same road every time for best comparison.

Interesting. I'm pushing a hair under 400awhp with my S3 and have been for nearly 15k miles. 122k miles currently. Methsssss FTW

[AngryOrchard99]

Originally Posted by mikelevi Success! Came out easy with the bolt remover!

What extractor size did you use. Or do you remember what extractor set you used. Im trying to find an extractor that fits my stripped bolt; its been a damn struggle.

[MSMS3]

Originally Posted by AngryOrchard99 What extractor size did you use. Or do you remember what extractor set you used. Im trying to find an extractor that fits my stripped bolt; its been a damn struggle.

It is unlikely that you will get a response from him. The post you responded to is about four years old, and he last posted here two years ago. You can click on his user name and see his posts.

You might have better luck trying to reach him by PM or the email link on his user page. It's always very chancy to expect to get a reply get from members who posted years ago in very old threads and who have not been active in several years. Try a PM or email to him, but I doubt he is still hanging around, and if so, whether he remembers what extractor he used for years ago.

You might get lucky, but think about it . . .