Thehead's GTX3071R, fmic, cp-e exhaust mani build

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by thehead Well, I got my turbo, exhaust mani and bt inlet today so I'll be installing it all at once rather than just the exhaust mani. pics! I'm a little frustrated at this whole process with edgeautosport, they've been more than helpful but the names on my packages were spelled wrong, normally this wouldn't be an issue but I'm on a military base and it makes it a ridiculous pain to try and get my packages. My turbo inlet was here for a month because cp-e had the wrong name. I'm still trying to locate my bigmaf.

Sorry about that, let me know how we can get it fixed.

[thehead]

edited first post with install pics so far.

[crazyp]

this is the intercooler i went with 28x8x3.5 eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

same price.

nice build so far

[thehead]

Originally Posted by crazyp this is the intercooler i went with 28x8x3.5 eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices same price. nice build so far

yeah, that looks similiar to the tr8 treadstone core, which is what I ended up switching to because I wasn't getting good cooling with the ebay one. have you installed it yet?

[crazyp]

Originally Posted by thehead yeah, that looks similiar to the tr8 treadstone core, which is what I ended up switching to because I wasn't getting good cooling with the ebay one. have you installed it yet?

its been on my build since day 1

[Karmat]

Anyone have pictures of how much cutting is necessary to fit the TR8 properly?

[thehead]

Originally Posted by Karmat Anyone have pictures of how much cutting is necessary to fit the TR8 properly?

for me, I had to cut the width of the intercooler and half way up, The crash bar is shaped like a "C" not like a bar, so I cut the bottom part off. I may be taking my front bumper off again on Wednesday, if I do I'll take a picture.

[thehead]

Updated OP with pictures of exhaust manifold in and more notes. need a stubby wrench to finish tightening mani to turbo nut and finish up intake stuff.

Question.. For the ebc vacuum line from the turbo housing, since the gtx3071r doesn't have one like the k04 does, should I just drill a hold into the bt inlet and put in the nipple provided? Also, how do I tune the ebc and set it up :S

[crazyp]

Id rather drill the hot pipe for a boost source or t off the mani. I run MBC so can't help you on the ebc

[TiGraySpeed6]

Boost source - you can use a quick tap-

FTG-QuickTap-CompHSG : atpturbo.com


Pic compliments of @dougefresh_

[thehead]

Originally Posted by Karmat Anyone have pictures of how much cutting is necessary to fit the TR8 properly?

Finished with the install of everything just need some tuning. Is there a base bt map at all? I have a modified map currently with -30% wgdc and lower boost levels for now, but yeah. I need to get on the perm list.

Also uploaded more pictures to op.

Pretty crazy though, this turbo sounds so much different than the stock turbo, its higher pitched like a jet engine, I like it

[Karmat]

The bumper splitter fits underneath all that?

[thehead]

It just fits, however, the functionality of it is questionable, your best bet would be to cut the crash bar all the way, or check with @Alpha for his crash bar solution he mentioned in an earlier post in this thread. I know once I put the front mount on, my intake temperatures went up quite a bit which could be because the lower spoiler isn't able to bring enough air into the engine bay as it use to.

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by thehead It just fits, however, the functionality of it is questionable, your best bet would be to cut the crash bar all the way, or check with @Alpha for his crash bar solution he mentioned in an earlier post in this thread. I know once I put the front mount on, my intake temperatures went up quite a bit which could be because the lower spoiler isn't able to bring enough air into the engine bay as it use to.

My Full-Race FMIC is the beez kneez. The bar I have on the car now is thick and strong, but they decided to make it almost three times as thick/strong for the production kits. I'm fortunate enough to be getting one of those as a replacement very soon.

We modified the stock splitter a bit to maintain it with the kit, for cooling purposes, and it turned out great.

Hope that helps. The MS3s have always had a ton of FMIC options, but the 6ers always got the shaft... Not anymore!

[thehead]

Alrighty, so my transmission got rebuilt last week, I was hoping to put the mazda 6 diesel gears in there for that taller gear ratio but this is my only car so I didn't want to experiment on it since its not proven to work long term yet. While that was getting rebuilt I had the clutch and flywheel pulled to check the wear on them and it was bad.



This is why you don't let friends drive your car.

I replaced the ACT street clutch and fidenza flywheel with a resurfaced stock flywheel from Tech/Sales@EM and got a spec stage 3+ clutch from @StreetUnitMark . I also got a prosport boost gauge to replace the really old one I was using. i also got a 3bar map sensor and the Sure 3" MAF housing from @StreetUnitMark

[TiGraySpeed6]

Looking forward to hearing your opinions on the flywheel now that you
re going back to OEM from the Fidenza on your DD...

Happy to have the weight back?

[ScarMS3]

is it moving under its own power again.....need track times now.

[thehead]

i'll be picking it up today. I still have to tune it, I'm going to Minnesota for a week on wednesday so I'll be doin maf cals when I get back.

[thehead]

So upon driving my car home, its pretty crazy, my clutch pedal feels like a normal car's clutch pedal now rather than taking like 75lbs of force to push down. however, third gear takes a lot of effort to take out of gear, not really sure what the deal with that is, I'm goina take it back tomorrow and see what they say, they gave me a 6 month no questions asked warranty.

[bmylez]

If it's only one gear, sounds like they might have messed up the rebuild. Could be synchros.

[thehead]

So we found out what it was, the shift weight was hitting my intercooler piping clamp, easy fix, yay!

[thehead]

So I've been trying some tuning, this wgdc stuff is a bitch, I'm still trying to figure it out but I'm not making boost very quickly and I have no leaks.




let me know if I'm royally fucking this up, I think my wgdc is fairly conservative, I've been working my way up and going off of other wgdc's people are using. boost targets are 24psi from 3k-6k rpm 1750ish commanded fp.

[bmylez]

Sounds like you need to do the dreaded WGA arm preload.

[thehead]

Yeah, thats what im afraid of, i increased wgdc to 70 til 3k and it didnt help at all, damit all to hell

[bmylez]

Unless the ebcs isn't plugged in or is malfunctioning entirely, it's the WGA preload.

[Realgib3]

Ugh... looks like the preload to me too. Good luck man.

[thehead]

Gah, I'm really tempted just to go ewg now, tack weld the iwg shut, and throw in a screamer pipe... Only thing is, I'd have to know the iwg is shut before I can weld it, it should be since it was shut pretty good when I installed it with no vacuum/boost applied to it. Thoughts?

[burn813]

I used a grimmspeed iwg block off bracket for a 18g... It cost about 20 bucks and I was able to do all the work with the turbo still on the car.... Just a thought

[thehead]

So I'm finally getting some boost built, I'm coarse tuning the wgdc today and I'll probably fine tune it tonight, looks like the logs cut out at 22.8 psi so I'll keep her at 22 lbs til I get my new map sensor in. I'll post some logs later.

Had a scary moment today that made me realize I need to adjust wgdc in smaller increments... don't groan me too hard for that..

[thehead]

slowly getting the wgdc dialed in, oooh yeah... this would be so much faster if I had a laptop, lol.

I do have a question if I lower the initial wgdc, would it spool up faster. I wasn't sure because it would be less load on the engine, not really sure if its better just to send all the exhaust to the turbo or not.

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by thehead slowly getting the wgdc dialed in, oooh yeah... this would be so much faster if I had a laptop, lol. I do have a question if I lower the initial wgdc, would it spool up faster. I wasn't sure because it would be less load on the engine, not really sure if its better just to send all the exhaust to the turbo or not.

Just FYI,

You probably have an easy 500 RPMs of earlier spool left in the tune...

This is what I am getting with a ported IM with no VTCS (which slows spool an easy 2-300 RPMS):

[atvfreek]

All of the GTX's I've tuned hit 20+ by 3400, so you are getting there. What does your vvt table look like?

EDIT: also looks like a little bit of an oscillating boost curve. Are you using the load dynamics or load error comp tables. If so what are those values.

Sorry if these have all been answered. A little late to the thread

[thehead]

Originally Posted by atvfreek All of the GTX's I've tuned hit 20+ by 3400, so you are getting there. What does your vvt table look like?

my vvt table is whatever the stage 2 tune uses, not sure what to do with that, I haven't done anything with the error values, I don't understand what they do :p

[thehead]

Well son of a bitch, launched and something made a breaking sound. My rear end is making a clicking noise. Anyone know what that would be? Broken driveshaft maybe?

[crazyp]

could be an axle. I'm always paranoid about that so the first thing I do after starting the car is turn off DSC and turn on the meth.

[thehead]

Hmm, just checked the driveshafts from the outside the look good. Thinking its the diff . How much are one of those?

[burn813]

Pull up one click on the ebrake and test results lol

[thehead]

Does that make it fwd?

[thehead]

Meh, its something internal I'm pretty sure, just started my second part of a-school so my time is goina be limited, but man, I did a ton of tuning this past weekend, and the car pulls soo hard, I love it. well, not so much anymore, I'll be putting my car up on a lift tomorrow and see if I can spot any obvious damage, and I'll check the fluid for metal. does anyone know what the rear diff gear ratio is, i seem to remember someone saying its the same as whats in the rx-8's. But I was looking and there are a ton of different ones they use. @06Speed6

[06Speed6]

The rear diff *should* be 1:1 but I dont know that for sure and the coupler should slip some so its near impossible to determine that way. I have a back half if a rear axle in the storage unit, there is no way I can guarantee that it isnt junk, I bought it on ebay for $250+shipping a couple years ago and havent done anything with it. Supposidly the gearset is rx-8 spec, but I dont know if that just means the the gearset will swap into a rx-8 axle or that the diff is a direct swap or what. I havent even opened that thing up to look.

Fyi the coupler is the likely weak point and the outer case of the actual coupler can break open.