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 Old 06-23-2014, 01:09 AM   #81
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
I popped a coupler off on the last dyno pull, but the only data I have to support the cams is Teddy's silly torque curve, and tbh, his car was pretty conservatively tuned.



His head is not ported.

His build consists of rods, pistons and head studs.
Dyno looks great man, would you think ported head would add more with these cams ? or these eliminate the need for porting..
I"m just tossing up with my GTX2867 for when i build the bottom if the cams bring it alive more up top would the extra money on porting be worth it as well.
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 Old 06-23-2014, 02:13 AM   #82
 
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the simple answer to that question @shaneski; is, yes.
what you want to do is improve VE as much as possible. Porting the head helps remove restrictions and increase flow. I expect the gains from a ported head to increase in relation to the size of the turbo you're running. I think it was justin that gained something like 30hp on a gt28?
The cams are advertised at a 26hp(? pullling that number from memory. Too lazy to go back and look) gain using a k04. While it's not as simple as just adding two numbers, you can expect the two mods to work very well together to give good gains.

The real question here is, How deep are your pockets?
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 Old 06-23-2014, 04:19 AM   #83
 
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Originally Posted by BLKSTIG View Post
the simple answer to that question @shaneski; is, yes.


The real question here is, How deep are your pockets?
Not fucking deep enough at the moment i will give you the hint lol with registration/insurance due and a fried OEM clutch that needs replacing, plus i am in Australia so everything goes up with postage and dollar value
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 Old 06-23-2014, 05:18 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by Scribbles View Post
Tips for beginners who are just following their instructions:
  • Do not loosen the crankshaft bolt without replacing the 3 friction washers inside the valve cover.
  • The valve cover needs to be taken off on a gen1, you won't be able to properly torque the exhaust cam sprocket bolt unless you mod a 21mm socket.
  • It's extremely difficult to push that chain tensioner back and rotate the cam for the extra "slack". My arm didn't fit inbetween for the lower blind plug.

There's probably more but those were the major things I noticed today when swapping head studs.
With the proper torque wrench extension it isn't an issue.
No need to remover the timing cover. Valve cover is a must.
Now, arm being too big to get at tensioner release I can't help with.
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 Old 06-23-2014, 07:04 AM   #85
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
With the proper torque wrench extension it isn't an issue.
No need to remover the timing cover. Valve cover is a must.
Now, arm being too big to get at tensioner release I can't help with.
Oops, I meant to put timing cover not valve cover. I'll fix that now
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 Old 06-23-2014, 08:37 AM   #86
 
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People have made great power on the MZR platform without cams, but that doesn't mean they won't be valuable. These should help push the curve right, which should help buy some more HP on stock block setups while keeping TQ in check. Would be interested to see how these would change the numbers on a GTX30 car vs. stock cams.
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 Old 06-23-2014, 09:13 AM   #87
 
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so is everyone going to run upgraded lifters/tappets or are you going to reuse the stock ones? I need to do my VVT/Timing chain and thinking about ordering these and doing everything at once.
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 Old 06-23-2014, 09:55 AM   #88
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I'll be reusing any of the tappets I have between two heads that I can maintain the proper clearance with.
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 Old 06-23-2014, 10:21 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by shaneski View Post
Dyno looks great man, would you think ported head would add more with these cams ? or these eliminate the need for porting.
The answer to should i port my head is yes. if you have the motor apart and can afford the extra cost then you should always port the head.
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 Old 06-23-2014, 10:31 AM   #90
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
I'll be reusing any of the tappets I have between two heads that I can maintain the proper clearance with.
Which is one of the reasons this install should be done with someone who has some experience and extra buckets etc.
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 Old 06-23-2014, 10:42 AM   #91
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Which is one of the reasons this install should be done with someone who has some experience and extra buckets etc.
hmmm.. schimming valves fun times... not..

I kinda want these with some new vlve springs see what me and @ms3blackmica; can do with this 5862..
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 Old 06-23-2014, 02:52 PM   #92
 
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I get mine wednesday.
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 Old 06-23-2014, 03:22 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by The Panda View Post
hmmm.. schimming valves fun times... not..

I kinda want these with some new vlve springs see what me and @ms3blackmica; can do with this 5862..
525 AWHP isn't enough?

I knew you were going to be a problem
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 Old 06-23-2014, 05:29 PM   #94
 
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Dam it, these got released too late for me. Just checked on my engine build and the head work is already finished and just need to balance it all up... oh well maybe next engine lol
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 Old 06-23-2014, 07:10 PM   #95
 
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Originally Posted by sidekick View Post
PRODUCT RELEASE!

Due to current demand the camshafts are out of stock with a new batch being finished in late July expecting to ship July 29th

lolwut.
The date has changed, it now says July 10. I went ahead and ordered.
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 Old 06-23-2014, 09:11 PM   #96
 
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Just when I thought I was nearing the end of my modding, they come out with this.....lol
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 Old 06-24-2014, 06:37 AM   #97
 
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
The answer to should i port my head is yes. if you have the motor apart and can afford the extra cost then you should always port the head.
True in some ways, but my point is with these cams would like to see them tested on the same engine with stock head and ported

Cams are usually designed with lift and duration around what the head can flow via flow bench, as these show power increase with stock head. Ported head could have weird lean spots etc with a BT. I may be over thinking it all but real world tests with head work would be good.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 07:22 AM   #98
 
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so you guys aren't going to buy the tappets up front and replace them all? Just order them after you check clearances? Just trying to figure out everything I need to do up front. I am going to have my hands full doing these, timing chain, and VVT.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 07:24 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by GOT 2RBO View Post
so you guys aren't going to buy the tappets up front and replace them all? Just order them after you check clearances? Just trying to figure out everything I need to do up front. I am going to have my hands full doing these, timing chain, and VVT.
Unless you can forecast what sizes you'll need, don't order them until you've measured clearances and calculated the sizes.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 10:05 AM   #100
 
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Originally Posted by GOT 2RBO View Post
so you guys aren't going to buy the tappets up front and replace them all? Just order them after you check clearances? Just trying to figure out everything I need to do up front. I am going to have my hands full doing these, timing chain, and VVT.
Or just order multiple of all of them, and send me the spares... lol.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 11:44 AM   #101
 
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in exchange for a set of cams??? deal!

thanks guys!
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 Old 06-24-2014, 11:54 AM   #102
 
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Sure, you can have the set of cams out of my engine.... aka the stock ones.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 03:57 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Unless you can forecast what sizes you'll need, don't order them until you've measured clearances and calculated the sizes.
It should be noted that the used tappets will be worn so they need to be measured as they will not match the size stamped on them. Could cause problems when ordering new ones

Ie the old one was 5 and I measured the clearance as 2 too big so why is a 7 too tight. When in reality the used one is a 4. No fucks given about decimal places or units you get my point.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 04:21 PM   #104
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We'll see what happens here. I can sense some drama coming.
The possibilities for fail are immense. Most people who bought the web cams ended up in fail and there were some experienced people installing those cams from the GB. Get schooled before you install these.

I don't usually shit on a vendors thread but who would buy a set of cams not knowing duration and LSA? Apparently quite a few I guess.

@Ziggo; for the lulz.

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 Old 06-24-2014, 04:52 PM   #105
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This is definitely an install where if you are the least bit hesitant you shouldn't do it yourself.

I thought the duration was the same as stock with the higher lift as specified?
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 Old 06-24-2014, 05:50 PM   #106

 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
We'll see what happens here. I can sense some drama coming.
The possibilities for fail are immense. Most people who bought the web cams ended up in fail and there were some experienced people installing those cams from the GB. Get schooled before you install these.

I don't usually shit on a vendors thread but who would buy a set of cams not knowing duration and LSA? Apparently quite a few I guess.

@Ziggo; for the lulz.

Be afraid.







based on their white paper, I would surmise that the LSA remains the same, and the duration was simply scaled up keep the profile of the cam the same with the increased lift.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 06:10 PM   #107
 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
who would buy a set of cams not knowing duration and LSA? Apparently quite a few I guess.
a lot of guys don't understand the particulars and why something works the way it does. They are only concerned with the end result. In this case, more power... show them a dyno sheet and sign them up.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 06:56 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
This is definitely an install where if you are the least bit hesitant you shouldn't do it yourself.

I thought the duration was the same as stock with the higher lift as specified?

Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
based on their white paper, I would surmise that the LSA remains the same, and the duration was simply scaled up keep the profile of the cam the same with the increased lift.
Are you getting that from the graph of the exhaust cam on the paper?
Ok I guess.

The paper also mentions boost having an influence on valve springs. Sheesh. Moar schooling needed.

Another down side of going above 0.390”lift is the valves will require stronger valve springs to maintain proper operation of the valves at high boost or high rpms
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 Old 06-24-2014, 07:36 PM   #109
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Fuck me @Ziggo; is right, in order for this to be safe with the stock valve springs you would have to keep the ramp angle the same. Too steep of an angle could float a valve with the stock spring rates.
@phate; you seem to watching this thread pretty closely for someone who won't buy first run corksport parts. though you are one of the people I hope does choose to install these, you have the know how to install these correctly and with as hard as you are capable of pushing the k04 it would be nice to see the difference it makes for you.


Plus between you and dan you have a collection of tappets ready to go.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 07:53 PM   #110
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IMO there is zero benefit to installing these cams with anything smaller than a GT3076.
You're gonna spend $500 for 26 HP?
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 Old 06-24-2014, 08:04 PM   #111
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Stock block shift the torque curve to the right? Yes please.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 08:04 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
phate you seem to watching this thread pretty closely for someone who won't buy first run corksport parts. though you are one of the people I hope does choose to install these, you have the know how to install these correctly and with as hard as you are capable of pushing the k04 it would be nice to see the difference it makes for you.


Plus between you and dan you have a collection of tappets ready to go.
Threefold why I won't get these -

1) CS first runs for the past couple years have been terrible. I have nearly 40k miles on the engine, and I don't want to see it fucked up by some bullshit. CS parts have to be on the market for >1 year before I will consider them.

2) I don't think they'll pick up much power for someone who doesn't give a damn about how hard they're pushing the K04 on the maize. We're talking nearly 360hp on your typical LC dynojet without bs correction factors. Time will tell, maybe I'm wrong.

3) Class rules don't allow it.



PS - I'm always watching
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 Old 06-24-2014, 08:06 PM   #113
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Damn that number three is the nail in the coffin.
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 Old 06-24-2014, 10:50 PM   #114
 
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I will have mine Monday

My setup is single runner head with 1mm oversize valves and crower springs, GTX3076R with a tial v-band housing on a custom top mount manifold, and a custom intake manifold.

Talked to Teddy before make my purchase. He said he gain 46 Hp @ the wheels though out the power band.

SOLD and thanks to Derek @ corksport
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 Old 06-24-2014, 11:05 PM   #115
 
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Originally Posted by KotzurRacing View Post
I will have mine Monday

My setup is single runner head with 1mm oversize valves and crower springs, GTX3076R with a tial v-band housing on a custom top mount manifold, and a custom intake manifold.

Talked to Teddy before make my purchase. He said he gain 46 Hp @ the wheels though out the power band.

SOLD and thanks to Derek @ corksport
Sounds strong man, be sure to update when you get some solid numbers.
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 Old 06-25-2014, 05:14 AM   #116
 
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Originally Posted by KotzurRacing View Post
I will have mine Monday

My setup is single runner head with 1mm oversize valves and crower springs, GTX3076R with a tial v-band housing on a custom top mount manifold, and a custom intake manifold.

Talked to Teddy before make my purchase. He said he gain 46 Hp @ the wheels though out the power band.

SOLD and thanks to Derek @ corksport
This is the stuff i wanna see..Build thread? it works great with Teddys but if he went ported and gained more HP that would mean extra fuelling etc and blows the budget for what he is aiming for..
@Justin@Freektune can you bolt the 2867 backon and these cams and see the difference..thanks in advance lol
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Originally Posted by Spencer@CorkSport View Post
Thanks @phate; possibly the updated version didn't get uploaded.

Just to confirm, we should replace the 2 friction washers on the crank as well?
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 Old 06-25-2014, 07:20 AM   #118
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Only if you remove the crank bolt.
And there are 3
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 Old 06-25-2014, 08:29 AM   #119
 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
IMO there is zero benefit to installing these cams with anything smaller than a GT3076.
You're gonna spend $500 for 26 HP?
Lol, i had to quote this. People spent almost 1grand for an exhaust manifold to make less than 26hp. Some spend more than 5 bills for cbe. Why not add cams? But i do agree with waiting to see the long term results before buying, this a very important part and things can go bad if something isnt right with them. I would be hesitant buying from anyone, not just cause its made by corksport. And i wouldnt install these myself.
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 Old 06-25-2014, 09:16 AM   #120

 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Are you getting that from the graph of the exhaust cam on the paper?
Ok I guess.

The paper also mentions boost having an influence on valve springs. Sheesh. Moar schooling needed.
Not from the graph, just that the entire thing is talking about how they tested the flow at various lift values and the testing done, which is really good.

I think if they were going to change the LSA there would be something similar backing it up. Look how much we debated it and we are just a couple of yahoo's.

As for the ramp rate, as was said earlier I don't think you can change that and then say "stock Springs are ok" without some kind of test/analysis which was not provided.

Changing lift without life testing on stock springs is questionable enough, though if they have been run for 6 hours @ 6k rpm (or 12hours at 3k rpm.. etc) that gets you past the million cycle mark, after which you can pretty much assume they will last much much longer. I assume these were tested and driven around before hitting the market, so hopefully this was done, just not documented.

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