Product Release! CorkSport Oil Catch Can Development and Release Notes

[freshe5b]

It honestly looks like a solid design but the "cap" that came off should have been welded on. One less part to deal with. Either way this will only make the next design better, lots of constructive criticism on this thread!

[Dubcnea]

Originally Posted by Dano Since you had a "leak" with both OCCs maybe it wouldn't hurt to verify your PCV valve is working correctly or better yet add a check valve to the system. I would prefer the can be welded together for sure but that does cost more money than their current process. Tappin

JBR check valve is already installed. how else can you check to ensure the PCV system is working correctly? not that this matters i suppose but the car has 6500 miles on it. so it's still quite new. i know shit can still go bad no matter the age. not sure how to check that system.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by Dubcnea JBR check valve is already installed. how else can you check to ensure the PCV system is working correctly? not that this matters i suppose but the car has 6500 miles on it. so it's still quite new. i know shit can still go bad no matter the age. not sure how to check that system.

to check the CV is easy by removing it and using compressed air to try and open it, say give it 25PSI. If its working the PVC is not material to the OCC pressurizing since the CV will prevent that.

one thing is, the parts need to be connected in the right order. so it would look like this.

CC>PCV [OE setup] >OCC>CV>IM

As long as the CV is installed in the right flow direction, meaning it will not allow airflow from the IM to the OCC, you should be good to go.

[Dubcnea]

Originally Posted by Dano to check the CV is easy by removing it and using compressed air to try and open it, say give it 25PSI. If its working the PVC is not material to the OCC pressurizing since the CV will prevent that. one thing is, the parts need to be connected in the right order. so it would look like this. CC>PCV [OE setup] >OCC>CV>IM As long as the CV is installed in the right flow direction, meaning it will not allow airflow from the IM to the OCC, you should be good to go.

it's installed correctly. i double checked during install on the direction. also the other OCC was fine until the leak at the external boot (circled in an earlier post). i think if the CV was bad it would have ruined the OCC in the same fashion of this one if it was a pressure issue. No?

[Dano]

more than likely.

Not that the OCC should be pressurized but a welded one should be as strong as an IC or IC piping and thus can handle any boost you give it. What would typically fail in this situation is a hose or hose clamps.

An OCC with sight glass on the other hand, could not handle any boost and that part would fail eventually and would likely cause leaking under boost and vacuum.

if your IM is in-fact, sealed off from the OCC and won't allow pressure to flow in that direction, then the pressurization has to be coming from the CC which is another can of worms.

It is expected on an FI car for the CC to see some pressure due to cylinder compression escaping past the rings. Too much CC pressure is typically caused by not evacuating this out during off boost situations via the PCV at the CC or the VC vent, or engine damage allowing way too much pressure to enter the CC.

My recent engine trouble is a prime example. I lost a ringland in a cylinder and my CC was over pressurizing and blowing oil into my TIP via the VC vent.

you might want to check your VC to TIP vent tube for excessive oiling.

[Dubcnea]

i'll pop the tube off when i get home and see if there's any oil in there. if not, then i think i'm back to the plain issue of OCC failing.

[J-Liss]

so

[Dubcnea]

so I'm still talking to CS. my CV is on the CC side, not the intake side. they say their can can't handle the pressure the engine puts to the OCC and says the CV must be on the intake side. My instructions i rec'd did not say that. I know there was a subsequent message sent out (per CS) that mentions the fact that they suggest a CV on the intake side.

However, nowadays they aren't even using a CV. they are routing their tubes to use the TIP. it's quite an 'interesting' design that could put oil back into the intake. hmm.

anyways, we'll see what they say tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Dano to check the CV is easy by removing it and using compressed air to try and open it, say give it 25PSI. If its working the PVC is not material to the OCC pressurizing since the CV will prevent that. one thing is, the parts need to be connected in the right order. so it would look like this. CC>PCV [OE setup] >OCC>CV>IM As long as the CV is installed in the right flow direction, meaning it will not allow airflow from the IM to the OCC, you should be good to go.

as stated...my CV is not between the IM and OCC. it's on the CC side. when i installed the CS OCC the instructions did not mention a CV at all. i had purchased JBR CV and so relied on their instruction to install the CV.

[Mizzle]

I've been lurking.

Let's just take a step back and say this:

If you're spending that much money on an aluminum tube, that shit had better be welded.

If not, I'm gonna go get a 2L Coke bottle and some epoxy and make a mint.

[Dubcnea]

Originally Posted by Mizzle I've been lurking. Let's just take a step back and say this: If you're spending that much money on an aluminum tube, that shit had better be welded. If not, I'm gonna go get a 2L Coke bottle and some epoxy and make a mint.

Agreed. regardless of where i end up with the CV, going with welded option.

[Dubcnea]

no solution from CS. basically a 'too bad for you'. i see where they are coming from, but it's unfortunate that it had to go this route. some miscommunication and what i would consider poor build quality had led to a loss of $140+. After replacing the sub-par lines and fittings supplied with the original kit, it's a total loss. oh well. JBR one on the way.

to those that have the CS OCC and have not had issues, i would suggest that you do two things:

1. if you still have the CV, either switch it to their new routing design (which i still don't like) or pray your CV never fails. cuz if it does, bye bye OCC.
2. forget the $25 replacement lines that they say they'll now sell you to replace the shit lines they gave you initially and go to autozone or napa and buy your own 5/8" nylon-reinforced line. for the length you'll need (~5 or 6 feet depending on how you route it), it'll cost you about $9.

cheers.

[Gwynne]

Originally Posted by Mizzle I've been lurking. Let's just take a step back and say this: If you're spending that much money on an aluminum tube, that shit had better be welded. If not, I'm gonna go get a 2L Coke bottle and some epoxy and make a mint.

Welded or not welded, the check valve needs be installed on the right side or needs to be re-routed in order not to pressurize the can.

Originally Posted by Dubcnea no solution from CS. basically a 'too bad for you'. i see where they are coming from, but it's unfortunate that it had to go this route. some miscommunication and what i would consider poor build quality had led to a loss of $140+. After replacing the sub-par lines and fittings supplied with the original kit, it's a total loss. oh well. JBR one on the way. to those that have the CS OCC and have not had issues, i would suggest that you do two things: 1. if you still have the CV, either switch it to their new routing design (which i still don't like) or pray your CV never fails. cuz if it does, bye bye OCC. 2. forget the $25 replacement lines that they say they'll now sell you to replace the shit lines they gave you initially and go to autozone or napa and buy your own 5/8" nylon-reinforced line. for the length you'll need (~5 or 6 feet depending on how you route it), it'll cost you about $9. cheers.

I am sorry that you are unhappy with the outcome. We cannot warranty against installation mishaps. We always try our best to provide clear and concise instructions and to make our customers happy so I am sorry that your experience went sideways.

I personally emailed you regarding the addition of the check valve and attached the instructions on how to install it at that time. In the instructions it clearly states the following:

1: Locate the silicone hose that runs between the intake manifold PCV port and the lower port of the Catch Can.

2: Simply, Cut the hose in a location that would be easy to secure the valve. Then, insert the valve at the cut securing it with the supplied hose clamps.

Note: Make sure to install the check valve in the correct direction. We don’t want pressure entering the catch can so the easiest way to tell operation direction is to blow in the valve. One way air travels freely and one way you shouldn’t be able to blow through. The side that you can’t blow through should be attached to the hose leading to the intake manifold. The other side should lead to the Oil catch can.

3: After routing the silicone hose and installing the PCV valve, make sure to zip tie the hoses securely so they will not move or contact any moving parts.

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by Gwynne@corksport I personally emailed you regarding the addition of the check valve and attached the instructions on how to install it at that time. In the instructions it clearly states the following:.

ahahaha... tough love...

[Dubcnea]

again, i'm sticking to the words of the 'suggested'. next time, state it as: "if this is not done as stated, the OCC will fail causing a loss of warranty."

yes, write it at a 3rd grade level.

[Gwynne]

Originally Posted by Dubcnea again, i'm sticking to the words of the 'suggested'. next time, state it as: "if this is not done as stated, the OCC will fail causing a loss of warranty." yes, write it at a 3rd grade level.

In my email to you, I stated the following:

CorkSport is highly recommending all turbo vehicles add an additional check valve inline on the intake manifold side PCV line (Lower port at the catch can).

We will be adding the check valve as a $10 option to the product listing, but would like to take this opportunity to offer you a complimentary check valve from CorkSport or the option to purchase a check valve from your local auto parts store and receive 10 rewards points on your user account.

Again, I am sorry because we want to maintain your business and the trust of the community. That is why we took the steps we did to ensure that when we identified the customer with the over pressurized can, we took immediate action to ensure no other customers experienced the issue.

[11MZR]

Originally Posted by Gwynne@corksport In my email to you, I stated the following: CorkSport is highly recommending all turbo vehicles add an additional check valve inline on the intake manifold side PCV line (Lower port at the catch can). We will be adding the check valve as a $10 option to the product listing, but would like to take this opportunity to offer you a complimentary check valve from CorkSport or the option to purchase a check valve from your local auto parts store and receive 10 rewards points on your user account. Again, I am sorry because we want to maintain your business and the trust of the community. That is why we took the steps we did to ensure that when we identified the customer with the over pressurized can, we took immediate action to ensure no other customers experienced the issue.

Owned.

[SpeedSixxx]

how much?

[Dubcnea]

Originally Posted by 11MZR Owned.

really?

[beachshoer]

In the end it comes down to doing your research when adding non stock parts to your car.

[El_Diablo]

My CS OCC is working great and the TIP is COMPLETELY dry. My CS OCC was my first mod and is working great and again, has let absolutely NOTHING into my TIP or intake.

Even if I were to buy an OCC from another manufacture I would route it the "new" way. Think about it like this, under boost is when you will see the most crankcase pressure. Under the "old" way the OCC's check valve would close under this boost situation as well leaving nowhere for the crankcase pressure to go.

However, when routed the "new" way, the crankcase is pulling its strongest when you're in boost as it is using the turbo's suction to vent the OCC.

How does that not make sense?

[Killer95GT302]

Originally Posted by El_Diablo My CS OCC is working great and the TIP is COMPLETELY dry. My CS OCC was my first mod and is working great and again, has let absolutely NOTHING into my TIP or intake. How does that not make sense?

I can also vouch for the "New" routing not letting any oil into the TIP on my MS6. I checked it after a few hundred miles and there was plenty of water and a little bit of oil in the can but nothing in the intake tract.

[taf0422]

I have removed my corksport oil catch can. I was in touch with kelly as I received my catch can a day before kelly sent out the email for new tubing. I was upset that I just ordered the can and it was sent out with the old tubing. I asked her if I already had the new tubing. She said yes, even though the tubing still felt under quality.

So after install worked fine for a day or two then i started to notice my car was smoking pretty badly. Saw online that it might be that the manifold was just burning things off and would be fine in a few hundered miles. I let it go. Then it kept smoking, thought it was the seals on my reworked turbo. So, i bought a BNR S3 which does not smoke at all. Well a few days letter. Started smoking again... Then a day later the tubes collapsed causing so much pressure in the crankcase that it blew the dipstick out causing oil to cover the engine/hood. Noticed that the "new" routing was also putting stuff back into intake then pusing it into my new turbo. Removed the catch can, zero smoke, no more exploding dipstick and no more stuff back into my turbo.

I usually stand by corksport products but this one I feel falls short.

[Killer95GT302]

Originally Posted by taf0422 I have removed my corksport oil catch can. I was in touch with kelly as I received my catch can a day before kelly sent out the email for new tubing. I was upset that I just ordered the can and it was sent out with the old tubing. I asked her if I already had the new tubing. She said yes, even though the tubing still felt under quality. So after install worked fine for a day or two then i started to notice my car was smoking pretty badly. Saw online that it might be that the manifold was just burning things off and would be fine in a few hundered miles. I let it go. Then it kept smoking, thought it was the seals on my reworked turbo. So, i bought a BNR S3 which does not smoke at all. Well a few days letter. Started smoking again... Then a day later the tubes collapsed causing so much pressure in the crankcase that it blew the dipstick out causing oil to cover the engine/hood. Noticed that the "new" routing was also putting stuff back into intake then pusing it into my new turbo. Removed the catch can, zero smoke, no more exploding dipstick and no more stuff back into my turbo. I usually stand by corksport products but this one I feel falls short.

I'll say that my car which never smoked except on a few rare occasions also started smoking at idle with the corksport OCC and the new routing. I initially suspect that the TIP is not enough vacuum to allow the turbo to drain oil properly at idle. I haven't pointed the finger at CS yet, however, as I haven't had the time to check that my PCV valve is clean and working correctly. Also the reason why I haven't opened a support ticket with them.

I, however, don't have the issue with the dipstick or any oil getting back into the turbo / intake as after examination the TIP was clean.

[El_Diablo]

No smoking or other issues here.

[evil MS3]

Is maybe the new routing more specific for the Gen2? I havent seen any mention of anyone with a Gen2 with smoking issues. Did Mazda change anything with the PCV system in the Gen2?

[jack_hammer]

Dang dude, your turbo want smoking after all? That sucks!

Probably sent from a toilet

[Killer95GT302]

Originally Posted by jack_hammer Dang dude, your turbo want smoking after all? That sucks! Probably sent from a toilet

No turbos want smoking

[Jhornbrook]

In running the old setup with cv and shit tubing. (Too broke to afford the new hose) it works now after several instances where the hosing would collapse and blow off the IM. Huge pain in the ass when all vacuum disappears and engine dies while merging onto the freeway. Just need to replace the clamps with good clamps and it works great

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by Killer95GT302 No turbos want smoking

thanks ,but i wasn't actually talking to you.

@taf0422; - your smoking turbo wasn't actually smoking?

[taf0422]

Originally Posted by jack_hammer thanks ,but i wasn't actually talking to you. @taf0422; - your smoking turbo wasn't actually smoking?

I got smoke from it maybe once a month or so but after the can I was going through 1/2 a qt every two weeks of oil...it was probably a good thing that I removed it anyway. There was play in the shaft. Gave me a good reason to upgrade and a good excuse to tell the fiance I need a bigger turbo

[Dubcnea]

Originally Posted by Jhornbrook In running the old setup with cv and shit tubing. (Too broke to afford the new hose) it works now after several instances where the hosing would collapse and blow off the IM. Huge pain in the ass when all vacuum disappears and engine dies while merging onto the freeway. Just need to replace the clamps with good clamps and it works great

it's well worth the $9-$10 to change out those shitty lines. also i just bought worm clamps ($2.99'ish) to fit that hose and it works just peachy (non-collapsing lines, that is).

[leka]

Hello!, I live in Sweden and Yesterday happens the same thing.. the top of the can just blew off..

I was heavy one the throttle that time due to some much snow that, my mazdaspeed 6
was stuck.. few minutes later after i drove out of there, I was going 35 mph, felt something is wrong, suddenly my car died...

opened the hood and the cap was not there

[leka]

I did cut the tubes and replugged them into eachother

[leka]

And now I don't understand a **** of this new installation and the new method that Corksport talks about, and they don't even have a mounting place for the can in the Speed 6, I just wished that they had a good instructions that shows where to connect the new routing, so I'm not sure that I even have the gut to install this again, and the green mouth that is connected from the PCV to the can broke once, good thing that they provided with a new one for some reason, but that saved my day.




Regards

[leka]

one more picture

[Dubcnea]

you will get 3 questions:

1. do you have a CV?
2. where is it installed?
3. is it faulty?

don't plan on contacting CS unless you know the answers to those questions.

the answers better be:
1. yes i do (or if NO, then 'no, and i have rerouted the lines per the new posted instructions)
2. between the IM and the OCC.
3. No and I've ensured it's flowing the right direction.

be sure you have pictures of your setup. they'll request them.

i'd guess that if you answers don't match to something very similar to above, then you're fucked.

god that 'sight' tube is 100% worthless.

ps - you must've had more glue in yours than i did lol

[leka]

Originally Posted by Dubcnea you will get 3 questions: 1. do you have a CV? 2. where is it installed? 3. is it faulty? don't plan on contacting CS unless you know the answers to those questions. the answers better be: 1. yes i do (or if NO, then 'no, and i have rerouted the lines per the new posted instructions) 2. between the IM and the OCC. 3. No and I've ensured it's flowing the right direction. be sure you have pictures of your setup. they'll request them. i'd guess that if you answers don't match to something very similar to above, then you're fucked. god that 'sight' tube is 100% worthless. ps - you must've had more glue in yours than i did lol

You mean check valve? where the hell should that be? and how dose it looks like?

The only thing they send me is the crank case breather and the can, and of course the tubes..

the problem is that I don't know what check valve looks like...

and one thing I do not understand why do they send a crank case breather? my one broke anyway so i installed their one

[Dubcnea]

Originally Posted by leka You mean check valve? where the hell should that be? and how dose it looks like? The only thing they send me is the crank case breather and the can, and of course the tubes.. the problem is that I don't know what check valve looks like... and one thing I do not understand why do they send a crank case breather? my one broke anyway so i installed their one

maybe it's a different setup on a mazdaspeed 6. i'm not sure.

you will now get into a conversation with them about an email they sent out about installing a check valve or taking 10 CS credits. But again, maybe you'll have some different issue since it's not a 3. I'm not sure on that one.

check valve (per JamesBaroneRacing.com - his image):

[G Sp33dy]

wow awful. Was considering this OCC but thanks to this major fail(s) I will go with another one.

[plak424]

Originally Posted by G Sp33dy wow awful. Was considering this OCC but thanks to this major fail(s) I will go with another one.

I was as well, looks like I'm getting a JBR instead