Product Release! CorkSport Oil Catch Can Development and Release Notes

[captain slow]

Originally Posted by plak424 I was as well, looks like I'm getting a JBR instead

Everyone seems to forget about the Matt Damond OCC. JBR stuff is the shit but MD OCC is cheaper with a check valve

[plak424]

Originally Posted by captain slow Everyone seems to forget about the Matt Damond OCC. JBR stuff is the shit but MD OCC is cheaper with a check valve

True, I don't have anything against Matt's but the other JBR parts I have are incredibly well made and the customer service is awesome. I had a problem with one of my orders and it was fixed within 24 hours.

[slikr]

i am running this occ and have not had any problems with it, there has to be a bunch more people that are running it and of course your gonna only mainly hear from the people that have problems. the lines even the newer ones feel cheap quality. which i was told that i do have the newer lines. two of my friends have the matt damon one and the lines are stronger... also why is there even glue used on the cap? shouldn't it be welded?

[Illusion]

Hey guys i installed my CS oil catch can the other day, followed the instructions that CS provided and while i was out cruising with my buddies the oil catch can blew up!

no joke! the top is completely gone and it appears the whole can was glued together

needless to say the car died, but we managed to pull it into a parking lot and reroute the line back to stock config with pliers and a knife. I will be posting pictures later and contacting Corksuck about this. In the mean time i highly advise all of you to stay away from gluesport.
A buddy of mine who had an RX-7 said they used to make garbage parts in the past too...

I will no longer be doing business with corksport, especially after the fact they left a note in my box when i opened it, it read : this part was made just for you.
So i get a part made just for me from CS that does this? I dont think so never again.

[Yatta]

Originally Posted by Mizzle I've been lurking. Let's just take a step back and say this: If you're spending that much money on an aluminum tube, that shit had better be welded. If not, I'm gonna go get a 2L Coke bottle and some epoxy and make a mint.

If you did it correctly a 2l coke bottle would hold more pressure, ever make a dry ice bomb?



But it isn't respectable. It's mildly terrifying. And that actually makes it quite appealing. - Mazda 3 MPS review, Matthew Jones, Top Gear.

[Kellerspeed3]

Never been a Corksport fan, two year limited warranty on parts when other manufactures give lifetime says it all in my book.

[Yatta]

Originally Posted by El_Diablo My CS OCC is working great and the TIP is COMPLETELY dry. My CS OCC was my first mod and is working great and again, has let absolutely NOTHING into my TIP or intake. Even if I were to buy an OCC from another manufacture I would route it the "new" way. Think about it like this, under boost is when you will see the most crankcase pressure. Under the "old" way the OCC's check valve would close under this boost situation as well leaving nowhere for the crankcase pressure to go. However, when routed the "new" way, the crankcase is pulling its strongest when you're in boost as it is using the turbo's suction to vent the OCC. How does that not make sense?

Seems that I missed the 'new' way, is this the addition of the check valve or completely new routing on the hoses? Pictures? Thanks.




But it isn't respectable. It's mildly terrifying. And that actually makes it quite appealing. - Mazda 3 MPS review, Matthew Jones, Top Gear.

[Dubcnea]

Originally Posted by Yatta Seems that I missed the 'new' way, is this the addition of the check valve or completely new routing on the hoses? Pictures? Thanks. But it isn't respectable. It's mildly terrifying. And that actually makes it quite appealing. - Mazda 3 MPS review, Matthew Jones, Top Gear.

new routing of tubes. check CS's support page for their updated instructions. it doesn't include the CV portion any longer. i guess you should be checking their support page daily in case they happen to update something (sans notification).

[the public enemy]

The best place to mount this on the speed6 is on the drivers side of the frame up front below the intake and to the rear of the car from the radiator fans. You can cut an L shaped bracket and bolt it down to the frame, heat and bend the bracket so the short part of the L is facing downwards, and mount the larger bracket the OCC comes with to the short part of the L. I will be taking pictures today of it; I still haven't painted it. I ensured everything was installed per the directions and I only picked my mounting position since CS doesn't provide one for 6's. Pics to follow either later tonight or tomorrow morning.

[leka]

Originally Posted by public enemy #1 The best place to mount this on the speed6 is on the drivers side of the frame up front below the intake and to the rear of the car from the radiator fans. You can cut an L shaped bracket and bolt it down to the frame, heat and bend the bracket so the short part of the L is facing downwards, and mount the larger bracket the OCC comes with to the short part of the L. I will be taking pictures today of it; I still haven't painted it. I ensured everything was installed per the directions and I only picked my mounting position since CS doesn't provide one for 6's. Pics to follow either later tonight or tomorrow morning.

What happend to the photos?:p

[Killer95GT302]

Originally Posted by public enemy #1 The best place to mount this on the speed6 is on the drivers side of the frame up front below the intake and to the rear of the car from the radiator fans. You can cut an L shaped bracket and bolt it down to the frame, heat and bend the bracket so the short part of the L is facing downwards, and mount the larger bracket the OCC comes with to the short part of the L. I will be taking pictures today of it; I still haven't painted it. I ensured everything was installed per the directions and I only picked my mounting position since CS doesn't provide one for 6's. Pics to follow either later tonight or tomorrow morning.

I didn't bother with creating bending brackets and stuff - i was able to mount it with parts right out of the box. Here's a pic and instructions to go along!

occ_mount_ms6.png

• Extend the T bracket as far out as it will go on the occ - only 1 allen bolt will be holding it to the occ
• Unbolt the thing circled in red and detach from frame. Move it aside for now (MAKE SURE POWER IS OFF AND DISCONNECT BATTERY)
• Use the bottom bolt hole of the thing circled in red to mount the occ (Red X) - you'll only be able to mount it with 1 bolt (from the thing circled in red), but its an occ, not a 16lb bowling ball
• Rotate the thing circled in red so that the plug is facing the front of the car (direction of arrow)
• Mount the thing circled in red using the top bolt hole of where it was previously mounted using the 2nd of its 2 bolts. You will now only have 1 bolt holding it up

[Javi]

Bringing back to life as it happened to me the other day
I had just installed the can as i made a custom bracket for it, went out for a ride
Decided to go WOT, heard this boom car die at the stop light, popped the hood to investigate and the top of the OCC was gone.

Not even one mile down the road!





And this is the bracket i made for it

[Ryguy]

Did you run a cv?

[Javi]

Yes, i bought one with the OCC.

[Killer95GT302]

Where was the cv installed

[Javi]

In between the manifold and occ. i used the factory hose.
Id get a picture tomorrow

[beachshoer]

I've been driving with mine for a good 6 or 7k miles and two autox weekends and no issues. Im not sure how this is happening without it being an installation problem. After a few thousand miles and a failure I could understand. But one mile? You had to have done something wrong. Not to question anyones mechanical aptitude or piss anyone off. Just my two cents.

[Killer95GT302]

Originally Posted by beachshoer I've been driving with mine for a good 6 or 7k miles and two autox weekends and no issues. Im not sure how this is happening without it being an installation problem. After a few thousand mikes and a failure I could understand. But one mile? You had to have done something wrong. Not to question anyones mechanical aptitude or piss anyone off. Just my two cents.

Yea its hard to believe that much pressure would build in the occ with out install error or massive blow by.

You sure the cv was installed to vent/close in the right direction?

[Javi]

Been around cars for 14 years, not only that but i wouldn't have a job if i didnt know how to install a CV

I wouldnt expect much from an OCC that is glued together and has faulty lines.

[3Gee Tee]

Originally Posted by Javi Been around cars for 14 years, not only that but inwiuldnt have a job if i didnt know how to install a CV I wouldnt expect much from an OCC that is glued together and has faulty lines.

This just happened to another member on here as well.


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[evil MS3]

Might have to go with a MD OCC now....not liking this and the lack of response...

[dsb_chicago]

Wow. Can't believe they would glue instead on welding.

[El_Diablo]

Its worked fine for me with the past 3k miles being at 19psi+

[rbebeau]

I've had mine on for the past 2k miles, using the new routing scheme (no cv). Other than replacing the rubber washer where the drain hole is (the stock one doesn't seal very well, making the cabin smell like fuel), I haven't had any issues with it.

[CorkSport]

We went with a press fit design on the lid with the thinking the catch cans are not going to be under pressure and if it is maybe 1 psi or so during the transition for the check valve closing which the cans can handle easily.

In regards to the lids popping off to do this the part would have to be under pressure. I have fielded several calls where people had questions on which direction the check valve needs to be mounted in the line between the intake manifold and the cans. The people installing the kit had doubts and they called about it and they did have the valve backwards.

A good way to know if you have the can setup correctly is it filling up oil/water/crap. After a drive or two you should be able to pull the drain and have some moisture come out of the can. If you have nothing make sure you have the check valve installed if you have the kit setup to have vacuum pulling to the intake manifold.


-Derrick

[evil MS3]

Thanks for the reply. Your OCC is back on my list

Is there a CV used in the new routing? I must have missed that bit.

[beachshoer]

Originally Posted by evil MS3 Thanks for the reply. Your OCC is back on my list Is there a CV used in the new routing? I must have missed that bit.

No CV necessary in the new route. I can tell you this OCC works great. I just ordered another one for my wifes speed.

[evil MS3]

I thought that was the case. Thanks!

[the public enemy]

Originally Posted by leka What happend to the photos?:p

Sorry life was keeping me WAYY too busy lately. I'll snap a picture soon I promise.

[randoms3]

@corksport
so it there any kind of filtering material inside the can? from the pic above it looked empty but i guess it coould have flew out of the can when it popped
thanks

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by randoms3 @corksport so it there any kind of filtering material inside the can? from the pic above it looked empty but i guess it coould have flew out of the can when it popped thanks

try clicking the link in the OP

[CorkSport]

Originally Posted by randoms3 @corksport so it there any kind of filtering material inside the can? from the pic above it looked empty but i guess it coould have flew out of the can when it popped thanks

When we posted up about the cans initially here on the forums the preference was to not go with a media inside the can due to build up of residue and not having an easy way to clean it. So based on feedback we went with the cyclonic style to drop the oil out of the air.

-Derrick

[beachshoer]

Originally Posted by CorkSport When we posted up about the cans initially here on the forums the preference was to not go with a media inside the can due to build up of residue and not having an easy way to clean it. So based on feedback we went with the cyclonic style to drop the oil out of the air. -Derrick

Who needs a filter when you have a cyclone and physics right?

[randoms3]

Originally Posted by jack_hammer try clicking the link in the OP

There is no info in the OP link. It doesn't say anything about any kind of material inside that's why I asked

Originally Posted by beachshoer Who needs a filter when you have a cyclone and physics right?

True that!

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by randoms3 There is no info in the OP link. It doesn't say anything about any kind of material inside that's why I asked True that!

no info in the link? there is no info the official corksport product release notes. try again.

Originally Posted by CorkSport Sometimes projects take a lot longer than expected to get to release. After several design changes, lots of simulations, and plenty of mounting revisions, we are happy to announce the release the CorkSport Oil Catch Can for Mazda and Mazdaspeed vehicles. Oil catch cans are designed to separate the water, oil and other contaminants from [...] More...

from the product release notes (in the link)....

Many of you have followed the development as we moved through our design revisions beginning with our first concept, a titanium oil catch can that used stainless steel wool to separate out the oil and several versions in-between before we came to the design that we are happy to be releasing today.

Unlike other catch cans on the market that simply expect the contaminates to fall out of the PCV vapors, our newly released oil catch can has a unique cyclonic vacuum design that forces contaminants to the walls of the can before the air can move back into the intake system. This Solidworks simulation shows how the system was designed.

[randoms3]

Originally Posted by jack_hammer try again

[the public enemy]

Sorry it took so long to get this but I mounted my catch can on the driver's side on the frame, just under the intake (MS6). I had to make a bracket and paint it to prevent rust so it would not interfere with other lines running around that area. Works amazing and its very easy to reach for a draining.

[the public enemy]

Originally Posted by Killer95GT302 I didn't bother with creating bending brackets and stuff - i was able to mount it with parts right out of the box. Here's a pic and instructions to go along! Attachment 86320 Extend the T bracket as far out as it will go on the occ - only 1 allen bolt will be holding it to the occ Unbolt the thing circled in red and detach from frame. Move it aside for now (MAKE SURE POWER IS OFF AND DISCONNECT BATTERY) Use the bottom bolt hole of the thing circled in red to mount the occ (Red X) - you'll only be able to mount it with 1 bolt (from the thing circled in red), but its an occ, not a 16lb bowling ball Rotate the thing circled in red so that the plug is facing the front of the car (direction of arrow) Mount the thing circled in red using the top bolt hole of where it was previously mounted using the 2nd of its 2 bolts. You will now only have 1 bolt holding it up

I almost did it that way but I decided not to push and pull on things and squeeze it in somewhere (which is what it looked like I had to do to get it in). I just took some thicker sheet metal, cut it into a reverse L, bent the long part 90*, and mounted it. It holds solid too.

[johnrw]

So would there be any issue with mounting this quite high up or does it need to level/lower with the PCV outlet?