Raider's Beta Test of the Corksport Turbo

[Raider]

BUY IT! Mazdaspeed 3 and 6 Turbo Upgrade

*I have the OEM downpipe, this is my story. If you upgraded, you already went through Hell and back so your time will be close to the Corksport time. I have 92,000 miles at install and the OEM downpipe. Fuck the OEM downpipe and all that comes with it*

Engine Mods: JBR Intake/TIP stage 2 power path (stock size) Protege Garage V1 FMIC with TR8 core, 3" Corksport mid-pipe and exhaust. Forge V1 BPV, Hypnotic Tuned.

So I was beta tester 03 for the pre-release real-world testing of the turbo, and the ONLY beta tester running stock downpipe, as I have found out. This was probably their biggest endeavor as of late, and I was glad to have been picked to test it. We all know there were some hiccups in the past, and how they restructured prototyping, testing (like for a year) and more testing before even sending us the units, shows progress. In fact they delayed the shipment for the replacement of one part they felt needed to be redone. In discussions with Derrick and Barett, I can be confident this is a serious project not taken lightly.

So here is my deal. I do not get into the sorcery in big turbos, 3 port this, 6th port that, tuning witchcraft. I have had no intention of upgrading the stock downpipe even. It was out of my skillset. I have had my car 8 1/2 years almost, and it MUST be reliable to take kids to daycare. I come from the days of the downpipe being a slippery slope for modding, and I still feel that way. Why? Popping dipsticks, bigger intake/TIP, more catch cans, ringlands being set free, more mods and more money which I am limited on. My conservative tune on VDyno once configured properly, 254 HP at the wheels. So when Derrick asked me to be a part of this test for a drop-in piece that would work with the OEM downpipe, and my normal stuff, I took up the offer. Mostly because 1) I wanted to make sure this worked for everyone. 2) who would not want to have more power?

Here is a 3rd gear VDyno. Was 254 hp on 4-21, before the CSBT. No 4th gear because before, 3rd was good for Rob, which worked for me. I have taken 3rd and 4th post BT to work on the boost issues. Datalog attached.



The turbo arrived as I was at ENM, and installed the following Sunday. FYI, you all get even better instructions. On behalf of the other testers, you are welcome. Keeping with the plans for this not needing a lift, and being something the average guy can do.

I suckered, I mean I was lucky to have 2 local Nator members help me install this. @neganox; and @Yanahdi; agreed to help. Something they learned to regret, as with anything on my car, if it can suck, it is because we need to do something to it. Anything easy on my car has always been a pain in the ass. Mainly for the fact mazda used supertorque machines to assemble it, so it was a worse-case-scenerio for the past 8 1/2 years on just about everything. And because of that, this install would never have been able to be completed without their help. Not joking. This install was the hardest of all, and not 1 bit was because of Corksport. It was because the OEM downpipe nuts,and worn tools. Oh, and shit ass PG FMIC V1 fitment.

OEM Downpipe nuts can kiss my ass. We tore into it around 9 AM, the easy stuff like intake, Protege Garage Version 1 FMIC piping, etc came off easily. @neganox had a badass swivel socket set for impact guns, which mad quick work of the 3 out of 5 total OEM downpipe bolts. Bottom front and bottom bolts ended up being the 6 hours of bullshit. Worn u-joint socket allowed too much play, no room, the nut on the bottom was deeper on the stud than the rest, and rounded off. Of course his rounded nut removal set was great, and even helped loosen one a little. We would get 1/8" at a time. Then nothing. Yes, we sprayed the crap out of them. but in the end, a Dremel and a metal blade was used first on the front stud, just cutting the nut off. Then the bottom one was in such a bad spot, no cutting. We had to make it work. the devised a breaker bar extension out of the harbor freight jack handle using a ratchet to fill the space. We thought it was moving. It was. Then it froze up, and then the nut sheared off. Since being replaced, yay. If I was just replacing the downpipe, I would have been in tears over how horrible this was.

Once we followed the rest of the steps, we decided the OEM downpipe hates being removed, it was too hot and bullshit to go underneath. And removing the EGR would drain coolant, and I forgot to get a drainpan for that. We needed one, because we would be under the car and coolant is not a good skin conditioner. So following the up top removal was a no go (but looks like a cake walk if you remove the EGR, and probably a cause for our long ass install, who knows?). The 2 studs that stuck out were causing a fit, and we decided the exhaust manifold being removed would fix this stud-filled puzzle from Hell. Took an hour or so, 2 nuts fought hard, requiring crows feet and a swiveling ratchet to loosen. Either way, they got the nuts off, no broken studs as they promised (I was terrified) and after moving the DP out of the way, the mani came out, then the factory turbo.

Switching things over was quick, then installing it. By now, close to 10 hours had elapsed. Give an hour to go get a tool at the beginning, and foods and breaks, too. We were already so over this, but because the OEM turbo studs were gone, and I had jury duty the next morning, no turning back. And like Nator, they stayed until the end. Again, I cannot thank them enough. We installed the turbo with the WGA on, and it went in kinda easily. We got the mani in, DP on, etc. Bolted up, then things came together pretty easily. Then the coolant banjo bolt would not go in. We were trying for 45 minutes or so, could not line it up. We knew it would fit, as it came threaded onto the turbo! @neganox; figured it out. The socket was too deep and not pushing it on. So RTV a DP nut into the socket, and then the thing screwed in. Home stretch, hour 12 hit a road block. The turbo seemed clocked like 1-2 degrees to the back, and the shit ass PG FMIC coupler was wonky as fuck with the piping going in flaring it out. If we put the piping into the straight reducer, the pipe would aim up 30 or so degrees. The PG piping had wonky fitment to begin with, nobody else beta testing was having this problem (yup, bugged Barett late on Sunday) it was a safe bet, my 6 year old FMIC piping was just shitty. PG made 4 revisions to it before CX-Racing knocked it off, so I bet that was one of the fixes made. My FMIC was like the Mazda3Mods FMIC, which fit with 1 mm tolerance and was a crap to install 6 years ago. I need a new FMIC piping solution!. A couple trial options with other elbows and larger piping with RTV failed. At hour 14, we ended up one last try, and got it on for temporary, but was not permanent. It looked like it would hold though. Wrapped up at 12:15 AM, and rolled it outside, and fired it up with my basemap tune from Hypnotic Tuning Rob (mister wizard) and no oil spewing, no coolant dripping. Took it up the block, held boost, so I parked the shitbox outside, gave hugs, and they left. I still owe em dinner soon.

How are things now after a couple weeks? I ordered a silicone reducer, 45° bend - 2.5" to 2.0" - Black (BRE000905) from Intercooler Pipe Fabrication and got it replaced and it first perfect now. I probably needed it before the turbo upgrade, because that fitment has always been sketchy there. Well it is not finished in the tuning stage, so that will change.

We are on the 4th map or so now. 17 PSI is all I can hit right now now, and we think it is the OEM 2 port BCS. I am doing things to get a 3 port EBCS so we can continue to tune. So it is a work in progress. Impressions as of Day 1 on the basemap were based on parking garage low-speeds. What used to be a bucking bronco in 1st, was smooth. Get it to 2800+, the turbo spools very smoothly and is of course pretty audible. I parked and had an STi park next to me and tell me he loved my car and it "sounds mean". Even said that Speed 3's are pretty quick. Was nice to get good feedback like that, other than the FWD rant. Anyways, as we are progressing, I really can feel the turbo wanting more. I feel it needing more air, more boost, more power. from 3K to to 5700 or so (need to really focus on RPMs) in 4th feels a LOT quicker than it was on OEM. But I want to finish the tune before I post after Vdyno. My goal is to go +50 hp, 308 to wheels. If we get more, it will because of the witchcraft of my tuner. I do know the big thing holding the power back, is the downpipe. I really do not want to do that. Maybe catted down the road, but still, not something I really want to do. FWIW, I was at 20 PSI with K04 for a couple years. I am maxing at 17 psi and am around the same power on vdyno.

So if you read all this wall of text, you will see that the OEM downpipe sucks balls to deal with. The easiest parts of the install were the Corksport stuff. The pain in the ass was all Mazda not thinking of the stuff ever needing to be replaced. We have a local shop that does a downpipe swap for $150, and if I look back, swapping the thing before would have made this such a cake walk. The OEM downpipe and OEM heat shielding and crap can really just go fuck itself. I am confident those who have done the downpipe, even EGR delete too, you will have that 4-6 hour install, if you used anti-sieze on the DP studs. If not, your friends will hate your car.

Would I do this again has been asked by several people, and I can now respond with a glorious, yes*. I would take it to my exhaust shop to deal with the stupid downpipe removal, and throw in the $ to swap the turbo as well. Again (I think I stated this a few times) if you have upgraded the turbo, you are in good shape to get this power mod.

This took a lot longer to write than I expected!

Now BUY IT! Mazdaspeed 3 and 6 Turbo Upgrade

OK, people have demanded logs and vdyno. Again, this is IN THE FREAKIN WORKS, so take it as a work in progress and have it make no bearing on how the turbo works. Thanks to @jdmage_mx5;, a 3 port EBCS was ordered by him so I can get going before the stupid stock turbo sells and people will calm their tits for logs and shit. I want final logs and vdyno too!

Here is a 3rd gear log to show I am about the same hp with 16-17 lbs of boost that I was with 20. Once the boost control gets taken care of, tuning can recommence. Again, this is not a problem with the CS Turbo.


6/8/15 Few more logs/maps later, done with stock intake tune. +40 hp. Uploaded the last log before BT, the final log for 2.5+ intake.



Next step is the 3.5" intake install, ECU relocate, and get tuning. Goal now is to see what I can safely get to. 325 would be nice. Would be a +71 hp gains from before with just a bigger intake, EBCS and tune with the turbo. Pretty nice.

[neganox]

If you've installed a downpipe already, this install will be a breeze. Corksport's directions, as normal, are on point. @Raider;'s car can eat a buffet of dicks. That is all.

[Raider]

Originally Posted by neganox If you've installed a downpipe already, this install will be a breeze. Corksport's directions, as normal, are on point. @Raider;'s car can eat a buffet of dicks. That is all.

If I do a downpipe, I will be spending the $150 to get it done. Because I am sure there is still more fail in there somewhere.

[Code Monkey]

v-band of gtfo

[Yanahdi]

I hate your car but I love a challenge. Guess I just negated myself.

What was that a 15hr install? I hate your car.


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[Addikted To Boost]

I've installed a downpipe 3 times now, sucked ass each time

[Raider]

FWIW, I was at 20 PSI with K04 for a couple years. I am maxing at 17 psi and am around the same power on vdyno.

[AwAfrican]

Thanks for the write up raider I'm looking forward to seeing that vdyno when you're done tuning, Im doing my dp next week... Definitely taking that fucker to a shop.

[Yanahdi]

That's basically all this was, a downpipe install with an added turbo lol. With an aftermarket downpipe I doubt anyone would have any issues. Pretty much everything from CS lined right up, the clocking is a possible concern but can be easily fixed. Make sure you get a coupler ahead of time to be on the safe side.

Remember the proper tools make jobs easy. Impact u joints, sockets, etc are a good investment but be ready to improvise. That's the real reason why you do installs with other people, moar brains = less frustration.


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[Killer95GT302]

DP removal stories like this is why mine has been sitting in a box for 2 years. Good to hear you got thru it, get that thing tuned.

[neganox]

Originally Posted by Killer95GT302 DP removal stories like this is why mine has been sitting in a box for 2 years. Good to hear you got thru it, get that thing tuned.

This DP removal was the worst. Cutting studs with a dremel tool isnt hard. If we could reach that stupid 5th stud to cut it off, we would've been done a lot sooner. Also Raider didn't soak anything overnight. If you PB blast the studs and let them soak for 12 hours and then hit them again overnight, you shouldn't have any issues. *fingers crossed*

[AnubisFSU]

After reading this I'm not looking forward to my downpipe swap. Hopefully its easier on a gen2 (doubt it would be)

[Raider]

I was asked for the pics of the coupler issue with my version 1 protege garage fmic piping.

Before:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431526317.742558.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431526334.653295.jpg

After fancy new coupler
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431526350.106775.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431526362.792060.jpg

[someguy]

Downpipes aren't that hard...next time come up north and I'll help you guys out. It's about having the right tools and just knowing what order things come apart in. Also from my experience it's easier to just take extra things apart rather than trying to avoid taking more things apart to save time, in the end it never saves any time. An above the engine only turbo install? I can't even imagine trying to do that.

[Raider]

Originally Posted by Yanahdi I hate your car but I love a challenge. Guess I just negated myself. What was that a 15hr install? I hate your car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. And I hate my car too.

Originally Posted by someguy Downpipes aren't that hard...next time come up north and I'll help you guys out. It's about having the right tools and just knowing what order things come apart in. Also from my experience it's easier to just take extra things apart rather than trying to avoid taking more things apart to save time, in the end it never saves any time. An above the engine only turbo install? I can't even imagine trying to do that.

So what tools do you have to unshear a stud?

[TiGraySpeed6]

From all the Speed6 owners
To all the Speed3 owners hating a turbo from up top only install-


You have no idea how much we'd like to be able to even SEE the turbo from below...


Raider- Good on ya for getting it done, sounds like a fun time was had by all! I look forward to hearing what you think when the tuning is done!

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 You have no idea how much we'd like to be able to even SEE the turbo from below...

With the alternator relocated to the front, I can *see* the turbo from the bottom, but I still cannot reach it, this is even worse than not seeing the turbo in the first place....

[someguy]

Originally Posted by Raider Yes. And I hate my car too. So what tools do you have to unshear a stud?

Don't sheer it in the first place. A torch and spray and torch and spray usually helps to free up stubborn shit. Plus a pile of extensions, wobbles, fine tooth ratchets, swivels, etc allow you to get the proper attack on bolts.

If I did run into a sheered stud/nut, I would just pull the turbo/mani and use an extractor and replace.

I can totally understand though that sometimes shit just goes wrong and it definitely sucks, we've had 8 hour FSB installs before or at the same time 6 hour turbo swaps. It goes both ways. Some cars are a bitch lol

[neganox]

Dremel 225-01 Flex Shaft Attachment - Power Rotary Tool Accessories - Amazon.com

Dremel 225-01 Flex Shaft Attachment - Power Rotary Tool Accessories - Amazon.com
Dremel 225-01 Flex Shaft Attachment - Power Rotary Tool Accessories - Amazon.com

[MazdaBoy2.3]

As a person who also didnt want to give up my stock downpipe, i feel your pain. After cutting off all shields and brackets, and hitting it with a hammer a few times i got mine to work with my gt2871r. Lol

That said, i dont think the dp is whats holding your power back.

[Raider]

Ideally I would be willing to go bigger intake and pnp intake (Relentless) manifold. It takes $, and with my daycare mortgage payment, it's gonna take someone wanting to downgrade for a straight swap for it to happen.

Right now I am happy it's running well as it is and eager to see what my car can do with the setup I have.

[speed3 britz]

Originally Posted by neganox If you've installed a downpipe already, this install will be a breeze. Corksport's directions, as normal, are on point. @Raider;'s car can eat a buffet of dicks. That is all.

In reference, I felt this needed to be shared! After install snack @Raider;...?

Ship A Bag Of Dicks - MAGNUM BAG OF DICKS ($30)

[Raider]

Originally Posted by speed3 britz In reference, I felt this needed to be shared! After install snack @Raider;...? Ship A Bag Of Dicks - MAGNUM BAG OF DICKS ($30)

I will not buy anything from SURE Motorsports/Street Unit.

[JgamB]

I picked up a dyno / vdyno / trap speed verified 22-24whp by replacing the OEM DP with a catless ATP with my BNR S3. I felt the difference immediately and had to prove to myself the added noise wasn't impacting my butt dyno judgment.

Maybe I can toss in my 2¢ for DP removal as well, as I've gotten pretty proficient after doing 8 turbo swaps.

3/8" drive RATCHETING breaker bar - $17 at Harbor Freight and the star of the show.
14mm (or 15mm if you're working on ATP nuts) 6 sided deep set socket
6" *wobble* extension for 3/8" drive
3/8" drive swivel adapter.

This is all you need, and all 5 studs from the OEM DP can be removed from the top. The wobble extension is used for the lower left nut, and the wobble + swivel is used for the lower right nut. I've gotten this down to a 20 minute process once the heat shields are gone.

For anyone wanting to make the most of a medium turbo upgrade... well here's my dyno plots with the top 3 runs being made catless. The car also trapped 117.92 full weight to back it up.



Edit: and one more tip for getting that OEM DP out the top - take the 2 bolts out of the PMM on the frame rail, either of the back two bolts out of your RMM, and you can slide the engine forward more than 1.5", making extrication much, much easier.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey With the alternator relocated to the front, I can *see* the turbo from the bottom, but I still cannot reach it, this is even worse than not seeing the turbo in the first place....

Even without the alternator relocated, if you've got long thin arms, you can reach the turbo from below on the MS6, though you can't do a whole hell of a lot with it except de/attach the oil drain line to the block, de/attach the turbo bracket, de/attach the turbo heat shields, and get your arms completely filled with bits of fiberglass insulation.

...and now back to our regularly-scheduled programming. Thanks for doing some of the legwork on this, @Raider;! I'm looking forward to see what this turbo can do with the wick turned up a bit.

[09Speed3Z]

Originally Posted by Raider I was asked for the pics of the coupler issue with my version 1 protege garage fmic piping.

You need to do what the wizard (aka Mr Finkle) and I did to my setup.

CX Racing kit so the turbo coupler is the same shitty design.

Buy an extended 90* coupler thats a 2.5" to 2" reducer so the entire transition from vertical to horizontal is a single piece with no couplings. Holds boost like a champ and not a worry in the world of having that coupler let loose.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by neganox This DP removal was the worst. Cutting studs with a dremel tool isnt hard. If we could reach that stupid 5th stud to cut it off, we would've been done a lot sooner. Also Raider didn't soak anything overnight. If you PB blast the studs and let them soak for 12 hours and then hit them again overnight, you shouldn't have any issues. *fingers crossed*

PB blaster is your friend and a must. with his DP having 8 years of service even moreso.

overnight is not even needed in most cases. apply to warm (NOT HOT, able to touch with bare skin - don't want the heat to evap the good stuff out) parts and give it 30-60 mins and you should be good to go.

[CFI2008]

Originally Posted by AnubisFSU After reading this I'm not looking forward to my downpipe swap. Hopefully its easier on a gen2 (doubt it would be)

I would suggest a new primary O2 sensor,can get them from rock auto, if it's your DD in case it strips. Besides the 5 studs that can be a PITA the other hurdle will be removing the stock downpipe due to the size of the Cat and the area it has to be pulled from. It's a freaking puzzle. Take your time and try not to destroy the heat shield like I did cuZ I got pissed when I took a chunk of skin off my thumb lol

[Raider]

I went 45 degrees not 90, and it worked well too. Either one is better than the simple reducer, and seems to be a chronic issue still for anyone with that kit. Good to note tho for @CorkSport; for anyone with a Cx racing kit.

[AnubisFSU]

Originally Posted by CFI2008 I would suggest a new primary O2 sensor,can get them from rock auto, if it's your DD in case it strips. Besides the 5 studs that can be a PITA the other hurdle will be removing the stock downpipe due to the size of the Cat and the area it has to be pulled from. It's a freaking puzzle. Take your time and try not to destroy the heat shield like I did cuZ I got pissed when I took a chunk of skin off my thumb lol

Thanks for the advice, girlfriend works for a mazda dealer 5 minutes away from home. I would get them to change my downpipe but I don't want them voiding my engine warranty. Thankfully parts are cheap just in case something goes wrong.

[Raider]

Originally Posted by AnubisFSU Thanks for the advice, girlfriend works for a mazda dealer 5 minutes away from home. I would get them to change my downpipe but I don't want them voiding my engine warranty. Thankfully parts are cheap just in case something goes wrong.

The second you modded your car, your warranty for that part is kaput. LOL warranty....hahaha. Man, made me smile.

[ALPINEST4RS]

Originally Posted by CFI2008 I would suggest a new primary O2 sensor,can get them from rock auto, if it's your DD in case it strips. Besides the 5 studs that can be a PITA the other hurdle will be removing the stock downpipe due to the size of the Cat and the area it has to be pulled from. It's a freaking puzzle. Take your time and try not to destroy the heat shield like I did cuZ I got pissed when I took a chunk of skin off my thumb lol

I rotate the downpipe almost 360deg to remove it. Sometimes I'll even drop the rear of the sub a little bit. I can do a swap (OEM replacement) in about 2 hours at the most.

I can only imagine doing it on the ground. You guys got balls. Much respect!

[AnubisFSU]

Originally Posted by Raider The second you modded your car, your warranty for that part is kaput. LOL warranty....hahaha. Man, made me smile.

Spoke with the mechanics and was told stock out for warranty repairs, they don't go looking for signs of modding. Couple of the mechanics have modded speed3's as well.

[Raider]

Originally Posted by AnubisFSU Spoke with the mechanics and was told stock out for warranty repairs, they don't go looking for signs of modding. Couple of the mechanics have modded speed3's as well.

They may not. But regional managers do. Trust nobody.

[CFI2008]

Warrenty on a speed 3 lol I lost mine the day it drive off the lot. Any ways can't wait to see results with this turbo with pump, meth and or e85

[someguy]

I've yet to have any warranty eligible item be denied service on my car whilst being fully bolted and not hiding the fact I'm modded. Granted I've never had any major items go on me but they've done a clutch pedal assembly, a from strut, front sway bar bushings and a few other odds and ends under warranty.

[G1sdaname]

Originally Posted by Raider If I do a downpipe, I will be spending the $150 to get it done. Because I am sure there is still more fail in there somewhere.

I changed my DP with zero experience, took me 12 hours because of those stupid bolts and other rookie mistakes. Thankfully none of the bolts broke. A breaker bar would have made things easier and not wasting 2 hours at the autopart store for not having the right tool.

Congrats on new turbo...but get the DP don't be a wuss.


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[G1sdaname]

Originally Posted by neganox This DP removal was the worst. Cutting studs with a dremel tool isnt hard. If we could reach that stupid 5th stud to cut it off, we would've been done a lot sooner. Also Raider didn't soak anything overnight. If you PB blast the studs and let them soak for 12 hours and then hit them again overnight, you shouldn't have any issues. *fingers crossed*

No wonder, I put put WD40 on mine and the trick my brother the mechanic gave me was try tighten the bolt a little and then give it a go plus he suggested I add a long socket to my wrench for more leverage and that worked wonders.


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[Raider]

I was hoping other beta testers could post logs since I need to fix my boost control issues. I assure you, I have a datalog prior to install, and after I get it fixed, and tune wrapped, I can show logs. I'm sorry.

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by Raider I was hoping other beta testers could post logs since I need to fix my boost control issues. I assure you, I have a datalog prior to install, and after I get it fixed, and tune wrapped, I can show logs. I'm sorry.

If only your tuner wasnt a never around, never posting, slacker.

@rfinkle2;