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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Start of the trip started off rocky when the guy I drove back with forgot to watch the gas levels and we were running on the gas light for 20km before a random house saved us so I thought I had my bad luck incident over with but noppee. Finally drop off the girl in Stoney Creek and driving on the QEW by Third Line back to Misssissauga and KABOOM...something blew up smoke everywhere and the engine started knocking like hell so I quickly got to off to the side of the road and turned her off asap. (yesyesss I'm thankful I didn't get into an accident or hurt) but wow am I really fucking upset. A random guy saw my car smoking like a bitch so he was nice enough to pull over and check on me worried that I was on fire. We found a trail of oil behind me and a puddle growing underneath. (tried to research and oil pans usually crack when they blow an engine?) Checked the dip stick and there was still oil in it but I'm guessing because it hasn't all leaked out. Got a tow back to my house because I don't need to be charged up the butt for leaving it at a shop for the next couple days but was lucky to get the tow for $120 from the middle of Oakville to Meadowvale Mississauga. It is now the next day, tried to find anything I could in the engine bay but all tubes look in tact and the leaking is at a minimum on the driveway right now/stopped? I'm too scared to attempt to start the car in case that makes things worse. Shops are all closed and tried to go to Canadian Tire and they said they can't quote me until Tuesday. Money is obviously a huge issue (student budget problems) But on top of that...I'm in a huge time crunch because I'm supposed to drive 3 other people back up to Thunder Bay late Friday night/Saturday morning again. Needless to say, I'm fucking hurting on the inside...any suggestions, advice, help, anything will do because I've tried to keep myself educated with this car but there's tons of stuff I really don't know. (JBR Stage 2 power path intake (includes the TIP), JBR short shift/weight, JBR RMM, Turbosmart blow off valve, res delete, and a stratified OTS stage 1 tune meant for that jbr intake) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score bent rods? or maybe one went through the side of your block?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You should be looking all over that engine after getting it back. A thrown rod is very easy to see as there will be a hole somewhere in the block. Did you recently change the oil or have it changed? Drain plug on still? Check everything, should be very noticeable by the sound of it. Good luck, how many miles are on it? Have you been running logs on it to make sure it's healthy? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It could be as "simple" as having slipped timing or having bad ringlands or turbo seals. It could be as sinister as blown engine, bent rod, etc. Question 1: Do you have fuel pump internals? They are not listed in your post, just checking. Question 2: Did the kaboom happen under throttle? What gear and speed? Were you in boost? Question 3: Do you remember what color the smoke was? Step 1: Check oil quantity and color. Step 2: Check compression and report numbers. Step 3: Check cylinder height if you have the means. Step 4: Check valve sealing. Others in here will know a lot more than me, but that's where I would start.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score If so...what do you predict in my near future? I just want to know what I can so I don't waste my time with bullshit mechanics trying to screw me over Can I rebuild the bottom half? Do I have to replace the whole engine? How long/how much does that usually cost? etc I apologize to anybody in advance if my ignorance/young experience is annoying |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Why are you jumping to conclusions? |
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Question 2: Kaboom under throttle @125km/h in 6th and a bit of boost but not WOT Question 3: No clue, it was dark outside and the guy didn't tell me but I failed to remember to ask him because I was a little flustered Step 1: Oil is still black but a little thick but it was apparently -30ish last night in the Toronto area so that might be why? I also checked the coolant tank and that was fine but I didn't drive after the kaboom for it to make it to the tank I guess? Steps 2-4: I have no means of doing so but i'll try and ask around | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I'll try looking harder for the leak but oil changed by a mazda dealer maybe not even 2k ago She's been running rich (assuming from the BOV) if that changes things and would once in a while get a boost spike but things seemed relatively okay |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you were seeing boost spikes, running with a full intake and test pipe and no internals, and boosting in 6th gear at 125kmh (~3000rpm) then you likely brought this on yourself. However, definitely complete the compression test and everything else. Contact your local NATOR chapter and see if someone around there has a tester and can help out.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Jack the car up.. get under there and take a look... If you threw a rod then it'd be obvious.. If no holes in the block then I'd try and locate the source of the oil leakage. Also, read the engine codes (I'm assuming you threw a couple codes) and see what that tells ya. I would avoid turning the engine over anymore until you find out exactly what happened. Post up what you find. Good luck. edit* cat stepping on keyboard lol
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__________________ MOD LIST UNDER CONSTRUCTION | |
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| If you believe that, I have a bridge in NYC to sell you. Just send me your bank account info and I'll send you the bill of sale...
Do you have datalogs of any of this happening?
__________________ Having trouble finding something on MSF? Use MS3Shadow's search tool:SEARCH MSF HERE! Last edited by Vansquish; 02-14-2016 at 02:54 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thrown the running rich in and out of idle and have logs for it but in terms of the boost spikes, never caught a log of it but the AP showed the highest boost levels during the trip and it would show anything around 20psi once in a while
Soooo I looked under the car and found this........................looks awfully a lot like a rod on the wrong side of my engine...but I couldn't find the hole but it was on the bottom left side (passenger side) | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If your lucky the heads are OK but sometimes when a rod lets go it damages the head also. Your best option since you need the car running is to source out a used running long block and drop it in, you might find one for 2K. If you have to pay someone to install, it'll be another 1K.
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So best case scenario roughly 3k Worst case scenario??? How does one find out the extent to how bad my situation is? Do I have to take it into a shop for them to tear it apart? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score All you need to do is lift the car and inspect the block and oil pan. if it threw a rod - and this is how it looks like (probably the oil you used and the extended oil change intervals paid off) you're going to need an engine and you already know the costs.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just did a search on car-part, there's 4 engine in Ontario, all listed around $3500usd. There's a couple speed 3's and speed 6 on kijiji around TO for $4-5000cdn. probably better buying a running parts car. |
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Good luck with getting her back up and running Ps i may have missed it but was this an ots AP tune?
__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 400.32whp 375.14wtq (STD) BNR STAGE 3 Stratified by Lex ![]() Of all the military achievements I've accomplished my first 10 years of service (made MSGT/E-7 at age 29), the one that makes me most proud is simply being able to serve my country during her darkest hour...NEVER FORGET those who made the ultimate sacrifice doing the same....I SALUTE ALL OUR FALLEN ![]() ![]() ![]() | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Cheapest scenario is to source a used engine, but you risk not knowing how it was treated. You could also get a short block (or long block) and start from scratch, building a resilient engine with good aftermarket parts and the correct mod path (i.e. not running stock internals with flow mods). It will cost you anywhere from $3,000 (if the damage was minimal and it really is just a new long block) to [insert very high number here] depending on what you want to do. You have no way of knowing what other damage the thrown rod did without tearing into the car.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So you picked up gas from a house that probably wasn't 91 octane. You should know this motor CANNOT run properly on less than 91 and will kill itself (91 still sucks to be honest... you still get pre-detonation/knock). My understanding is that you went into boost in 6th gear at 3000 rpms, which you CAN do without zoom zoom boom (Vanquish is totally right) but is definitely not advised (Phillycheese was saying we try to avoid it on stock blocks) ESPECIALLY without a proper custom tune. I see you have an OTS tune for the intake, but the tune/engine was still having problems and you drove it anyway. ![]() So you hit the gas pedal half way, boost starts to rise and you get a ton of knock/pre-ignition and you grenade cylinder 3 because you are running crap gas causing you to auto ignite the air fuel mixture (just a guess as cylinder 3 tends to run the leanest out of all 4 IIRC). ![]() Bottom of the rod snaps because it cant handle the extremely higher pressure in the cylinder and it goes flying through the block somewhere and the oil starts run out and burn causing your smoke issue. Someone correct me if I am wrong.. but this seems to me what happened. I am sorry to hear this man, no one every wants to deal with a blown motor but hey, think of this as a way to build you engine into a high horse power super car killer
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @MaleJadeLy; Here you go op. MZR DISI Remanufactured Long Blocks now Available at EdgeAutosport 460$ core charge (not bad considering how much damage can me made from a piston prison break!) You blew your motor. Your block is fucked. The head maaay be ok. Your crank may be fucked. You will not be driving those people to school in the Mazda. The fastest easiest route will be the above. If you suck with tools the install/pull would run close to if not more then 1000$ at a local garage. GL
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was quoted at 3500- 4500 to pull a ms3 engine. I pulled it myself because I can't justify paying that for something I can do. So if you can do it yourself or with the help of your friends, that's gonna be your best bet Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk Edit: that was pull and install Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
__________________ 08 MS3 Corksport turbo, built motor, meth injection, and FREEKTUNED Last edited by GEE1989; 02-15-2016 at 01:33 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sucks to hear, man. SuckSqueezBangBlow's scenario seems like a good interpretation of events. Hope you can fix it and update us on the progress.
__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score If I had the funds I would definitely use this as an opportunity but sadly the student budget's winning this round...I shall update once I figure my shit out |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yea rebuilding isn't cheap as I've figured out. Im probably gonna be paying 8k on my rebuild and that's with me doing most of the work. I'm having a machine shop assemble the motor and machine it but that's all I'm having anyone else do. You could do it for a lot cheaper probably but I'm trying to this the right way the first time. It's a shitty situation man and I wish you the best with it. I've been itching real bad to drive it lately Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
__________________ 08 MS3 Corksport turbo, built motor, meth injection, and FREEKTUNED |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score For 8k maybe it worth looking at a rebuilt block from cp-e, like the stage2 one which is like 7.5k with the core charge option included (so no core to return).
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well I'm getting a fmic, need all new valves, vvt, gaskets, going meth, head studs, ACT 6 puck and alot of little stuff I wanted to do to the car and now that the engine is out, it'll be easier to do it. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk Im factoring in 450 for dyno tune from Justin@freektune.com also Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
__________________ 08 MS3 Corksport turbo, built motor, meth injection, and FREEKTUNED Last edited by GEE1989; 02-16-2016 at 08:38 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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![]() | | #28 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score QUESTION: I've tried looking but can't find a direct answer...Will a jdm speed3 engine swap work? ECU wise, sensors etc...I found one for 74k at Japan Direct in Mississauga |
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![]() | | #29 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I am not sure about that, someone else is going to have to chime in. I hope so though! That seems like it would be good idea... I assume you meant it has 74k on it not its 74000 dollars. Gold plated engine yaaaaall! But seriously I wish you the best of luck man, if you weren't so far I would offer my help.
__________________ 2013 Genpu GT, 245/40 Direzzas, CS SRI+TIP,CS TP+CB, CS TMIC, CS FP Internals, CS 80a RMM, CS BPV, Accessport V3, Tuned by Nishan |
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![]() | | #30 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yes. JDM, Euro/UK/AUS, any will work, the engines are identical.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mituc For This Useful Post: | Easter Bunny (02-16-2016) |
![]() | | #31 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score what a bummer...I feel for you, its never good timing to have a major expense come up, but these things happen. 6th gear is a gotcha..unknown gas a ticking time bomb. Quickest fix is the used route, but lots of unknowns...if you can swing it a rebuilt would be your best bet...saving a 1000 might sound good, but then it might not last. Best of luck on your rebuild. |
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![]() | | #32 | ![]() |
| Raider is mah Homie ![]() Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Towson, Maryland
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You will need to use your original ecu on the JDM motor for emissions reasons.
__________________ I hugged rfinkle2 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The only sensor that may be different (not necessarily different) is the primary O2. ...And that doesn't come with the engine.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI Last edited by mituc; 02-16-2016 at 06:31 PM. |
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![]() | | #34 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Too bad I didn't have a down pipe laying around because I have the fuel pump internals ready to go and I'm plopping a new engine in, might as well...buttttttt that brings me back to money and time |
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http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...nny-cs-198191/
__________________ 2013 Genpu GT, 245/40 Direzzas, CS SRI+TIP,CS TP+CB, CS TMIC, CS FP Internals, CS 80a RMM, CS BPV, Accessport V3, Tuned by Nishan | |
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My bad! Ill keep my eye out for anything else.
__________________ 2013 Genpu GT, 245/40 Direzzas, CS SRI+TIP,CS TP+CB, CS TMIC, CS FP Internals, CS 80a RMM, CS BPV, Accessport V3, Tuned by Nishan | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That sucks. Sorry to hear about that. Sadly, a realistic starving college solution might be to get a $2500 beater, park the MS3 at home. When you have money and time, sell beater for 2500 and resume.
__________________ Traded in: 2012 MS3, CWP 2019 Dodge Charger Scat Pack 1986 Buick T-Type, square |
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![]() I've always wanted to couch hop for a bit just for the experience but now it looks like i'm really going to do so for my last year...how suiting, graduating homeless | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That sucks man. Yea shit aint cheap. Especially engine stuff Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
__________________ 08 MS3 Corksport turbo, built motor, meth injection, and FREEKTUNED |
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