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| Banned ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: On this planet (Washington)
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score We started with clear lexan tube, this was to monitor the flow rates coming into and out of the CC, then we started with 5 different media filters for the wet side of the CC. After all that we found the proper media that will not clog, the proper depth to run it at (yes the makes a huge difference), then and last the CC separation plate and the location of the holes. Well, what you see in the pictures is the final design. I have 25 of these ready just waiting on the brackets. We are using 11 gauge material with .250 tops and bottoms. I can take 300 psi and the threaded banjo fittings are able to swing 180 degrees on its side of the can. This will make line location much easier then the other cans that are on the market. We have 5/16 to 1/2 fittings availiable with the hose to match it. The media is a stainless steel mesh/woven material that supports 350 degrees and will not break down under the corrosive conditions that you normally find in oil vapor (lots of acid). From out testing we have seen 98% of all oil vapors trapped in the can and nothing but clean dry air making its way to the intake manifold. The only draw back with our CC is we don't have a drain. We do have an option for a drain but is a $110 option (push lock drain set up). We will have that as an option and only that. All the other drains on the market leak and we don't want to have oil messes under customers hoods. Do you need a quality CC like this, yes and only if your serious about keeping the oil out of your manifold. Check out our CC's to the other big names on the market and you will see that nothing but pure quality goes into these. The will come in black and full polish. The black will either be anodize or powder coat, $169 with bracket, lines and fittings. Full polish, $199 with bracket, lines and fittings. We built these to be bomb proof, and they perform just as well as they were built. Thanks. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i don't see the point in a catch can setup unless it actually elimiates pressure in the crankcase, what do these take it to? any chance a kit could come out, where it could pull 4 lines from the valve cover and 1 or two on the block and actually work and not just collect oil?
__________________ a built motor is not a built motor without being sleeved |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i wouldn't say all cans leak that have drains, but this looks nice. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to bova For This Useful Post: | mdogg (03-18-2009) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i have had them overfill too quickly when not running one large enough on the track.
__________________ a built motor is not a built motor without being sleeved |
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| Engineered Tuning ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Anyone had any issues with steel wool being pulled from the can into the intake? |
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| rabble rabble ![]() Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Delawhere
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| Not Ranked : 0 score so how do you drain them?
__________________ '08 CWP MS3 w/ T3 3071r |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Looks nice! A little higher $$ than some, but you get what you pay for. The pics make it look like the can is welded top and bottom. Do you have to remove it and dump it out through the fittings? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Where's the bracket go? I assume that it will mount clear of the airbox you are talking about selling. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Oh, and you said that if we do the windage tray, we might not even need this. Though, I did not remove the gear. This is a bit pricey, so, I kinda want to be sure I need it. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score hey PTP, get this done and I'll buy it right away lol!
__________________ BONE STOCK. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score looks like phillyb has a new bong to try ![]() j/k phillyb |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
OK, drip. I have yet to find an affordable drain or valve that will not drip after sitting in a jig for 2 weeks.
Pull it off and turn it over.
Will do, thanks. | ||||||
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