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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I really love the car so I got me thinking, at 111k on the clock and probably about 120k when I am thinking about doing this. I would like to refresh the motor and drivetrain completely. There is no need to except I wanna build the car back to fresh so I can enjoy it, but also figured on fixing a few minor flaws of the car in the process. Total budget is about 16-18k which I would technically never get back but I am not doing this to sell it. I am doing this because I want a japanese raw hot hatch with a limited slip that looks unsuspecting and goes like stink, and this car has that in spades for it's power and price range. It has destroyed quite a few cars I never believed it could on a e85 flash tune and some bolt ons. So for the build I kind of wanted to stick with robust but conservative. To start off Speed6erformanc3 stage 1 block seems to be the way to go, I don't plan on making over 400 wheel hp and this upgrades the rods and pistons but keeps stock compression and bore sizes. These also seem to be well reviewed, Kozmic seems to come up quite a bit as well. I figured 8000 or so for this including replacing accessories, I already have mounts on all three corners. Turbo I was looking at BNR's but I am thinking GTX3071R kit at this point for the power I want which is 350whp/tq on pump with a good tune. Maybe a little more with E/mix. That is 2100 right there with extra's. Suspension I am mostly going to refresh with a host of moog/whiteline components. upgraded struts or maybe go to coilovers, I wanna keep stock ride height as it is the lowest you can safely DD around here without scraping every pavement transition around. I figured 3k or so for this. Transmission, I would like to upgrade to a slightly stronger clutch and a Quaiffe diff instead of the stocker. I would also like to have the guts of the transmission replaced which I am waiting on a local shop to quote but I am expecting at least 3500. Then maybe 800 bucks leftover for some wheels. This work will all be done by my mechanic so those are prices quoted as ballparks. Thoughts or Changes?
__________________ 2008 Red MS3 sport CS RMM, JBR side mounts Corksport Stage II intake Test pipe Autotech Internals Stock heat range NGK's .26 gap. stratified stage 3 93 and E85 tunes "America is all about speed, hot, nasty, badass speed." |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have an 07 and CS turbo is getting delivered Friday but investing 18k into a fwd car worth $8k is nuts man. If you can't do the work it will become a constant problem, shop will fuck up the transmission, or mechanic will fuck something up and you will end up wasting so much money and have nothing to show for it. You can literally go pick up a 2016 MK7 gti for whatever you plan on investing. I would do build block, CS turbo(good for 450whp flows close s4) but I don't think you are going to finish this build.
__________________ 2007 TR MazdaSpeed3:Autotech FP inernals, CorkSport Turbo, TR8 Front Mount w/CX piping, JBR 3" intake, COBB EBCS, Cobb AP, Toyota Injector Seals, FR stud mod, Fidanza flywheel/LUK clutch, Forge BPV v2, cp-e xFlex stage 2 RMM, Wiseco .20 Pistons/Manley Rods/BSD, Dual DM catch cans, Koni Yellows/H&R springs, FD wheels, eBay downpipe, stock CBE 2005 Mazda 3 SP23: mods include rusty quarter panels and grinding 3rd gear. It does have a fusion motor, so I guess that's a mod too. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
I can't do some of the work and I don't have time really to do any of it. I also don't know where the "your mechanic is gonna fuck it up comes from", he works on mercedes to ford and is constantly busy, I have seen him do engine swaps in landcruisers, crate motors in cobra replica's, so taking a motor in and out is easy. The local trans shop does race trans for a lot of shops around here and who I was referred to for this sort of maintenance. Speak to what you actually know and don't speak to what you don't. I also wouldn't assume a completely overhauled car is worth 8k, that is just retarded.
__________________ 2008 Red MS3 sport CS RMM, JBR side mounts Corksport Stage II intake Test pipe Autotech Internals Stock heat range NGK's .26 gap. stratified stage 3 93 and E85 tunes "America is all about speed, hot, nasty, badass speed." | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yo, Lil red rocket, if I was dropping that kind of coin into my speed, I better be churning out 600-700whp and running 10's down at the track. Building the engine and only asking for 400whp just seems kind of a waste. I get that you want to "refresh" everything, but you could get closer to 400whp on the stock block with an E tune and slightly bigger turbo. Run a compression test and see what kind of health your engine is in first. You might still have a healthy engine and not have to build it. If you still plan to get it built, make sure you use someone that is reputable and has built these engines before. But if you're looking for a crowd to hype you up about dropping that amount of money into your car, you probably wont find anyone in here. I cringe knowing that the day I decide to get mine built its going to be anywhere from $4-$7K. But best believe when that day comes I'm going to be shooting for far more than 400whp. Either way, good luck. If you do go through with it, make a build thread and keep us in the loop on the progress.
__________________ 2013 LSM w/tech Cobb AP V3, CBE CS Turbo tuned by PD Corksport Catted DP/HPFP Internals JBR FMIC Pipe Kit w/TR8 CP-E TIP/3.5" Intake DM OCC/TMM Forge V2 BPV Bilstein B8 w/Swift springs Wilwood 6 pot BBK EBC RedStuff rear pads Konig Hypergram 18x8.5" |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you aren't going over 400hp you don't need a built block. Do some more reading. You'll realize you don't need to spend all that much to reach 400hp. A new LSD is pointless, and you don't even really need a stronger clutch. Especially when you don't know how to install/build yourself and are paying more for labor than actual parts.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just buy my car for $12k, 62k miles on it. Mods in my sig ![]() I have a genjuan im building. Prob shooting for around 475-500. I've spent prob $7k ish including the machine work, all the gaskets, turbo, downpipe, FMIC, clutch etc etc. $18k can go a long way.
__________________ 2012 NASA Spaceship Gray MS3 BNR S3 - JBR Tru 3.0" - CP-E TMIC - Corksport catless DP - Corksport catted race pipe - Forge V2 - Autotech internals + AP v3 - Swift springs - Enkei RPF1 17x9 + 45 (5mm JBR spacers in the front) - Freektune 320/346 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Actually, if you want a built block. You can have mine. $2000 plus your stock engine. SP63 4032 pistons and Manley H beams.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That's a damn good deal lol.
__________________ 2012 NASA Spaceship Gray MS3 BNR S3 - JBR Tru 3.0" - CP-E TMIC - Corksport catless DP - Corksport catted race pipe - Forge V2 - Autotech internals + AP v3 - Swift springs - Enkei RPF1 17x9 + 45 (5mm JBR spacers in the front) - Freektune 320/346 |
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You sound like you have no idea what building a car takes. And mods mean nothing when selling a car I would actually take stock over built like most sane people would. The fact that your mechanic works on Mercedes means nothing. I have seen many threads where mechanics fucked shit up. As I said I doubt this build will never happen, you sound like a day dreamer, but hey prove me wrong.
__________________ 2007 TR MazdaSpeed3:Autotech FP inernals, CorkSport Turbo, TR8 Front Mount w/CX piping, JBR 3" intake, COBB EBCS, Cobb AP, Toyota Injector Seals, FR stud mod, Fidanza flywheel/LUK clutch, Forge BPV v2, cp-e xFlex stage 2 RMM, Wiseco .20 Pistons/Manley Rods/BSD, Dual DM catch cans, Koni Yellows/H&R springs, FD wheels, eBay downpipe, stock CBE 2005 Mazda 3 SP23: mods include rusty quarter panels and grinding 3rd gear. It does have a fusion motor, so I guess that's a mod too. | |
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