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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Also need some help identifying mods. I haven't had a speed in a bit over 2 years but I think I got most of them down. Previous owner was a big fan of cobb, it seems. All the mods I've identified are as follows. Did I miss anything else? Pics below in link, [IMG] tags aren't working with imgur. 1. HPFP Internals <-- I'm asumming it has this, pretty sure it would have blown up by now if it didn't. 2. Cobb SRI+ Intake 3. Cobb FMIC 4. CS RMM 5. GFB BOV 6. Cobb DP (didn't take a pic behind heat shield, but I clearly saw the big COBB letters) https://imgur.com/a/2GpKkGJ
__________________ 2013 MazdaSpeed 3 - 88K Miles Mods: 1. HPFP Internals 2. Cobb SRI+TIP 3. CS RMM 4. CS Shift Plate 5. Cobb FMIC 6. Cobb DP 7. GFB Blow Off Valve 8. Ultimate Racing Catback 9. AP v3 w/ Custom Freektune |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score CS shift plate as well from the pictures. Check for a rear motor mount and rear sway bar too. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Regarding the HPFP I would still advise you to check.. or take your fuel pressure readings with a AP. Really you need to confirm that your fuel pressure gets into the 17 or 1800's and does not drop below 1600 at WOT
__________________ 2010 Gen 2 Velocity Red - Freektuned ![]() - AP V3 - HPFP - Cobb RMM - Damond PMM - Turbo Back Custom SS Race Pipe - K&N Drop in Air Filter - Bov - Raiden by Lenso Forge Type Monoblock 18 x 8 ET/ 35 Wheels - Falken Azenis FK510 235/40 Tyres - Webasto Sunroof. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i would recommend physically pulling hpfp and look at them to confirm
__________________ 2010 MS3 - Tuned By Nishan Autotech Fuel Pump Internals OBX R Custom Exhaust Cobb SF Intake & TIH w. Blitz Filter CP-e TMIC Corksport Dual VTA BPV JBR 88 Duro RMM |
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| There is no way to confirm whether you have upgraded HPFP internals except physically removing and examining the pump internals. You should definitely do this, as you are at risk of blowing your motor without them.
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