injector seals help

[mczimer]

Is it possible to run just the PTP seals without the studs/washers? Also, what is the point of using the new stud kit? CP-E only sells the seals by themselves, so I am a bit confused....

[Captain KR]

Originally Posted by mczimer Is it possible to run just the PTP seals without the studs/washers? Also, what is the point of using the new stud kit? CP-E only sells the seals by themselves, so I am a bit confused....

sigh here noob go buy and stfu
SURE Injector Halos & Studs for DISI MZR 2.3L

[G26]

Originally Posted by mczimer Is it possible to run just the PTP seals without the studs/washers? Also, what is the point of using the new stud kit? CP-E only sells the seals by themselves, so I am a bit confused....

The purpose of the stud kit is because the stock torx shit strips easily, and doesnt provide even pressure on the crows feet holding the injectors in.

[mczimer]

When you say the torx strips, do you mean the thread?
What is the result of uneven pressure? I have never heard of this before?

I pre-ordered a set of SURE seals, and they got stolen off my porch yesterday, so I am installing the PTP seals instead, so spare me the "noob" comments, I just want help

[Captain KR]

Originally Posted by mczimer When you say the torx strips, do you mean the thread? What is the result of uneven pressure? I have never heard of this before? I pre-ordered a set of SURE seals, and they got stolen off my porch yesterday, so I am installing the PTP seals instead, so spare me the "noob" comments, I just want help

did you not see my smiley face

i reuse my stock bolts with no issue but obviously t40 torx is harder to use than an socket on a hex nut hence the reason people do the switch!

[EdgeAutosport.com]

The reason people replace the studs and nuts is because the bit used to remove the bolt holding in the crows feet can easily be shredded if (its a crappy bit) I have never had any problems with this bit so I just reuse the stock hardware and omit using a different stud nut combo.

The way I see it, if you are never going to be touching the seals again whats the point of replacing the hardware if it didnt give you problems the first go round?

To each his own I guess

[Captain KR]

Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport The reason people replace the studs and nuts is because the bit used to remove the bolt holding in the crows feet can easily be shredded if (its a crappy bit) I have never had any problems with this bit so I just reuse the stock hardware and omit using a different stud nut combo. The way I see it, if you are never going to be touching the seals again whats the point of replacing the hardware if it didnt give you problems the first go round? To each his own I guess

freaking mexicans always trying to do what i do

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by Captain KR freaking mexicans always trying to do what i do

Will, I know you want to come visit and be full of win. Bring your fail boat so we can actually fix it

Originally Posted by superskaterxes you sir have just cursed yourself haha you might as well replace it all while your in there and tq that shit down harder to it provides more clamping force. you wont be able to tq the stock bolts any more then stock values before they snap.

Meh ive done 4 sets without issue. Just make sure the bit isnt a crappy brand and you will be fine

[Captain KR]

Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport Will, I know you want to come visit and be full of win. Bring your fail boat so we can actually fix it Meh ive done 4 sets without issue. Just make sure the bit isnt a crappy brand and you will be fine

you are right my fail is killing my e peen
but
pablo > eric

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by Captain KR you are right my fail is killing my e peen but pablo > eric

Pablo> me anyday obviously but yet again you only make me money when you are winning races so get on it

[superskaterxes]

Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport The way I see it, if you are never going to be touching the seals again whats the point of replacing the hardware if it didnt give you problems the first go round? To each his own I guess

you sir have just cursed yourself haha




you might as well replace it all while your in there and tq that shit down harder to it provides more clamping force. you wont be able to tq the stock bolts any more then stock values before they snap.

[mczimer]

thanks for your comments, I appreciate it; @Captain KR I missed your smiley! I will be using PB blaster on the torx fuckers prior to touching them, to alleviate any potential issues. My major concern was just that it would be possible to do this, and I would not regret it down the road.
From the workshop manual it looks like: (have not seen this mentioned in any how-to, but feel it is important)
Torx are torqued to 15.9-18.8 ft/lbs
Rail bolts 13-16 ft/lbs
TB is apparently torqued all the way to 71-101
IM 13-16 ft/lbs
PS pump 14-18ft/lbs

Any tips appreciated. Also, I have two ideas for cleaning the valves which I will be documenting and taking plenty of pictures of. One method involves media lasting, and the other uses a variation on the manual scrubbing-will make a thread upon completion of course!

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Just use a breaker bar when taking those bolts off and it wont be an issue. IIRC they are only torqued to 13-16ft lbs

[mczimer]

Why does @jbarone say to loosen the fuel rail cover? None of the how to's mention this...

"Install ONLY bolts 1-5 and #8
a. Snug ONLY bolts 1-5 and #8
23. Torque ONLY bolts 1-5 and #8 to 16FT-lbs
24. Loosen rear fuel rail cover bolts 2x 10mm
a. This is an important step don’t skip it
25. Install and torque bolts 6 & 7 to 16FT-lbs"

from here: http://jamesbaroneracing.com/support...structions.pdf

[superskaterxes]

its to take the stress off the IM when bolting everything down.

[mczimer]

CPE's instructions say to loosen the pressure on the fuel pressure sensor, then removing the line off the relief valve. Is this "needed", or is simply to avoid spilling some fuel? If I recall correctly, I think that vacuum line was removed during my HPFP swap.

Lastly, does anyone recommend cleaning the injectors in any way prior to re-installing them? (soaking them in seafoam over night?)

Thanks for all the help thus far, I will be sure to take a lot of pictures to possibly help enhance Douge/Anthony's CPE how to!