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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Now before the beating, hear me out.. we all know the smoking turbo fixes, ptp pill, pcv fix, bnoon bolt, to name a few. Some have only one fix installed and its cured, others have all the fixes and still gas the drive through attendants like a second auschwitz.. what about a restrictor plate, a simple plate that is the same size as the gasket but with a smaller but correctly sized hole in the middle? could be between the turbo and DP or further down, a very crude method but the MKIV Supra guys use it on stock turbos with removed cats to keep the back pressure up so boost doesn't spike (can't remember exactly but think it was to do with bad wastegate design) would this possibly help? its something i haven't seen or heard anyone do but i would think most of the power gains from removing the cats would be lost so it might be a pointless exercise.
__________________ 2008 Titanium Grey Mazda 6 MPS, Bone Stock for now. 2005 Black Citroen C2 VTS, software. 132whp. (sold) 2001 White Hyundai Accent 150CSI, stock. negative whp. (sold) 1995 Marine Blue Nissan B310 pickup, fully built 2.0l16v Mazda FE engine, 660cc Bosch injectors, turbonetics T3/T4, R21 gearbox, 685kg. 425whp. (sold) 1972 Blue Austin Mini 1000, GTS head and valves, cooper s internals, cooper s diff, single 2.5" SU carb, 3-2-1 branch and 56mm freeflow exhaust, big brake upgrade. 38whp of utter fury. (sold) |
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| The Following User Says NO Thank You to Wesley2.0l16v For This Un-useful Post: | Easter Bunny (03-09-2014) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You're absolutely right, it's completely pointless.
__________________ Blue Pu. "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you." |
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| Raider is mah Homie ![]() Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Towson, Maryland
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| Not Ranked : 0 score From yoUr post it is obvious you have no idea how a turbo works. If your turbo is smoking I would recommend that you take it to the dealer and let them bend you over for your stupidity. For anyone who is capable of reading there are threads where the cause of the smoking turbos has been discovered and multiple solutions have been found. It has become a rare case where the turbo seals are actually bad.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I am very fortunate to only have a very intermittently smoking turbo with no fixes at all and i have a very good understanding of how turbos work having turbo'ed two non turbo cars myself, i understand its the crankcase pressure and pcv and all that. i was simply looking for a discussion from people more knowledgable on this platform than myself and maybe have another possible method of prevention for people who want to remove cats but don't have the budget for other fixes or have tried other fixes that didn't work for them, if its a really crap idea then so be it.
__________________ 2008 Titanium Grey Mazda 6 MPS, Bone Stock for now. 2005 Black Citroen C2 VTS, software. 132whp. (sold) 2001 White Hyundai Accent 150CSI, stock. negative whp. (sold) 1995 Marine Blue Nissan B310 pickup, fully built 2.0l16v Mazda FE engine, 660cc Bosch injectors, turbonetics T3/T4, R21 gearbox, 685kg. 425whp. (sold) 1972 Blue Austin Mini 1000, GTS head and valves, cooper s internals, cooper s diff, single 2.5" SU carb, 3-2-1 branch and 56mm freeflow exhaust, big brake upgrade. 38whp of utter fury. (sold) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Try reading the solutions are readily available.
__________________ I hugged rfinkle2 |
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