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 Old 04-03-2014, 12:17 AM   #1
 
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Default Low oil pressure

So i took my car to the dealer to get my vvt done due to chain sound on start up and p0016 code. Upon picking my car up, they told me that the p0016 code was gone but that a new code, p0012 was now an issue. They said that its due to low oil pressure that affects the actuator. Ive driven it a little and is seems to run fine. Ive never once seen my oil light come on or even flicker. Has anyone had this problem or know of some causes of low oil pressure? Just trying to find out some things that i can try. I run full synthetic 5w-30 and just changed it within the past month. I pulled my oil filter and looked at it and it looked fine. Nothing obvious blocking it. Ive searched and only thing i found was a thread about low oil pressure after a built engine. One thing i saw was to pull the oil pan and look at it and the screen. Also some said to run thicker oil, 5w-40, but that it might only mask the problem. Any help or knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Just want to get this car running like it is supposed to and not have to worry anymore. I have a full corksport stage 2 intake.. thats it. Thanks
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 Old 04-03-2014, 10:11 AM   #2
 
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 Old 04-03-2014, 05:22 PM   #3
 
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Bump.. Need some help
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 Old 04-03-2014, 07:37 PM   #4
 
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Did you read this one?

P0012 CEL Code
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 Old 04-03-2014, 07:43 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Sensei View Post
Did you read this one?

P0012 CEL Code
Yeah actually ive read that multiple times and tryed alot of things from that thread.. Tryed wiping sensors off and other things. Thanks for the link though
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 Old 04-03-2014, 07:54 PM   #6
 
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Did you try retiming the motor or check the timing? Just from that thread it looks like some people had they're timing wrong and retimed their motor to fix the issue. The dealership could've messed up your timing since it was fine before the VVT job.
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 Old 04-03-2014, 07:56 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Sensei View Post
Did you try retiming the motor or check the timing? Just from that thread it looks like some people had they're timing wrong and retimed their motor to fix the issue. The dealership could've messed up your timing since it was fine before the VVT job.
I havent checked the timing no. How would i go about checking the timing?
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 Old 04-03-2014, 08:19 PM   #8
 
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I havn't done this yet myself so take my advise with a grain of salt but what I've learn is from the VVT how to thread HOW-TO VVT and other research while preparing to do the VVT and timing chain job myself.

Four things need to be inline for the motor to be timed correctly.
1. The crank pulley and crank position sensor need to be aligned.
2. The crank needs to be rotated against the Top Dead Center Pin aka timing pin this puts Cylinder 1 at top dead center.
3. The exhaust cam needs to be aligned while cyl 1 is @ TDC.
4. The intake cam needs to be aligned while cyl 1 is @ TDC.

3 and 4 are confirmed by putting a special tool on the end of the cams once the crank is against the TDCP. the cam lobes closest to the passenger side should face each other on a 45* angle like so /\.

To just check the timing at a minimum I think you would need the TDCP. You'd insert it in the blind plug and rotate the crank against it and with the valve cover off you could confirm that the cams are in the correct position. Then you can count the teeth on the crank pulley and make sure the 20th tooth is aligned with the CKPS.

Again this is just my understanding of what to do based on reading threads so hopefully someone more experienced can confirm what I said or tell you that I'm completely wrong and point you in the right direction.

Hope this helps.
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 Old 04-03-2014, 08:21 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Sensei View Post
I havn't done this yet myself so take my advise with a grain of salt but what I've learn is from the VVT how to thread HOW-TO VVT and other research while preparing to do the VVT and timing chain job myself.

Four things need to be inline for the motor to be timed correctly.
1. The crank pulley and crank position sensor need to be aligned.
2. The crank needs to be rotated against the Top Dead Center Pin aka timing pin this puts Cylinder 1 at top dead center.
3. The exhaust cam needs to be aligned while cyl 1 is @ TDC.
4. The intake cam needs to be aligned while cyl 1 is @ TDC.

3 and 4 are confirmed by putting a special tool on the end of the cams once the crank is against the TDCP. the cam lobes closest to the passenger side should face each other on a 45* angle like so /\.

To just check the timing at a minimum I think you would need the TDCP. You'd insert it in the blind plug and rotate the crank against it and with the valve cover off you could confirm that the cams are in the correct position. Then you can count the teeth on the crank pulley and make sure the 20th tooth is aligned with the CKPS.

Again this is just my understanding of what to do based on reading threads so hopefully someone more experienced can confirm what I said or tell you that I'm completely wrong and point you in the right direction.

Hope this helps.
Thanks alot man. Im gonna read up on it some more and maybe try to check the timing but what they said is that its all oil pressure based and if i have low oil pressure that would cause that cel to go off. ill deff try to check that though thanks for the good info
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 Old 04-03-2014, 08:26 PM   #10
 
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No problem. Definitely do some research and confirm what I said. Like I said I haven't done this myself yet so hopefully all the info I gave you is good.

Also since your VIP go download a copy of the FSM it should have the Mazda procedure for timing the engine in there somewhere. It also has the Mazda troubleshooting for your check engine code.
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 Old 04-03-2014, 08:50 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Sensei View Post
No problem. Definitely do some research and confirm what I said. Like I said I haven't done this myself yet so hopefully all the info I gave you is good.

Also since your VIP go download a copy of the FSM it should have the Mazda procedure for timing the engine in there somewhere. It also has the Mazda troubleshooting for your check engine code.
Where do i find that FSM?
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 Old 04-03-2014, 08:54 PM   #12
 
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VIP forum -> mazdaspeed3/6 Shop Manuals -> Then the sticky Mazdaspeed3 Service Manual
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 Old 04-03-2014, 08:55 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Sensei View Post
VIP forum -> mazdaspeed3/6 Shop Manuals -> Then the sticky Mazdaspeed3 Service Manual
thanks man
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 Old 04-05-2014, 12:18 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Zmcg1995 View Post
thanks man
Call up the dealer who did. Re-timing should be part of the VVT service and covered at no cost.
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 Old 04-05-2014, 09:21 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Marcus View Post
Call up the dealer who did. Re-timing should be part of the VVT service and covered at no cost.
I tryed that. They said that the engine wasnt timed wrong... They "double checked". They said its a matter of low oil pressure which isnt their doing.
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 Old 04-05-2014, 03:25 PM   #16
 
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so i checked my dipstick today while i was under the hood and it looked low... i just changed it a couple weeks ago and i know i didnt fill it that low.. could i possibly have an oil leak? Maybe a hole in a tube or line? That would causing the pressure to be lower which is why i keep throwing the p0012 code. Any insight or thoughts?

Im not 100% familiar with how the whole oil pressure thing works so just a thought

Last edited by Zmcg1995; 04-05-2014 at 03:25 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 04-05-2014, 03:44 PM   #17
 
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How low was it on the dipstick? Top it off and see if it disappears again...
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 Old 04-05-2014, 03:54 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by ihasmazda View Post
How low was it on the dipstick? Top it off and see if it disappears again...
It was just below 1/2 and im possitive i filled up up higher than that... Ill top it off and drive it for a little.. see what happens.. Is there a way to check for leaks though?
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 Old 04-05-2014, 04:06 PM   #19
 
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if it's a bigger leak it should smoke and smell. also usually can spot something by crawling underneath the car and look around the motor with a flash light...
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 Old 04-05-2014, 04:42 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by ihasmazda View Post
if it's a bigger leak it should smoke and smell. also usually can spot something by crawling underneath the car and look around the motor with a flash light...
I will jack my car up tomorrow and look around and see if i see anything..
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Zmcg1995 -

The exact same thing is happening to me, almost to a T. Dealer did my VVT, have p0012 code after, and they're telling me it's due to low oil pressure.

Just wanted to see if you ever figured out the cause and, if so, what it was?

Sorry for reviving an almost 4 year old thread btw - had to ask this though. Thanks!
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Originally Posted by Shadley View Post
Zmcg1995 -

The exact same thing is happening to me, almost to a T. Dealer did my VVT, have p0012 code after, and they're telling me it's due to low oil pressure.

Just wanted to see if you ever figured out the cause and, if so, what it was?

Sorry for reviving an almost 4 year old thread btw - had to ask this though. Thanks!
Consider PM'ing him. Chances are high that he will not be following an almost four year old thread, and may not even own the car anymore.

Hitting a necrothread is bad form and worthless almost always.
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2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp.

Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership)
BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms.
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