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10-31-2018, 11:36 AM
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(Thread Starter) |   Not Ranked : 0 score  Mazdaspeed 3 Starts then dies - assistance please Hi guys, The video below shows my problem. The car starts and idles for a little while but then dies. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCPxlWgMtq8 The car sat for about 6 months in the summer but I would start it now and then. The battery is new, there doesn't seem to be any alternator issues as I did not see a drop on my voltmeter when I tested it, I just added some Seafoam and changed all the spark plugs. My next though is fuel maybe the fuel pump. Any suggestions out there or thoughts to help me get her running and back on the road? |
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10-31-2018, 12:57 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Strange. I was expecting it to slowly idle down and stall out, but it just shuts off as if you turned the key. Any CEL's?
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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10-31-2018, 01:53 PM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Nope. No lights come on at all. |
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10-31-2018, 02:23 PM
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__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. | |
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11-01-2018, 02:09 PM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I can start the engine in the morning (cold) and raise the RPMs up. It seems like once the car gets up to temperature it has a hard time staying on - it eventually dies. Once it is up to temp and i get it started it is harder to keep the RPMs up.
Last edited by vincemoccio10; 11-01-2018 at 02:09 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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11-01-2018, 02:13 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Have you tried checking for stored engine codes? Maybe there is something stored in the ECU that may lead to something.
__________________ 2018 Audi RS3 2013 CWP Mazdaspeed3 - CS Turbo 2007 Acura TSX 6MT |
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11-02-2018, 08:55 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I had a similar problem with my LS1. My MAF sensor went bad and was grounding out whenever the car reaching operating temp and switched from open to closed loop. This caused the car to shut off immediately. Took me weeks to diagnose the issue, threw ZERO codes because im guessing the conputer never had a chance to store it. Anyway.... If there are no codes and if your fuel rail pressure checks out, id check some of the components that are used to monitor in closed loop settings I.E. Maf sensor and 02 Sensors. You could try disconnecting individual components and seeing if the car idles better when warm by forcing it into limp mode. If your having a hard time keeping the RPMS up, it could be MAF related.....Just a shot in the dark tho 
__________________ 2006 MazdaSpeed6 --- Under The Knife 🔪 |
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11-02-2018, 09:01 PM
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__________________ 2006 MazdaSpeed6 --- Under The Knife 🔪 |
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11-07-2018, 11:52 AM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Hey guys - check out the attachment. Success! the car is now running and not dieing out. I did what that other forum member did and used a jumper wire. Now I wondering if I can keep it like that? |
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11-07-2018, 12:15 PM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Also, I did take a look at the fuel pump resistor and it looks to be fine. Should I just go ahead and replace the whole thing? |
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11-07-2018, 06:47 PM
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__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to SSinstaller For This Useful Post: | vincemoccio10 (11-08-2018) |
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11-08-2018, 07:51 AM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yes, SSinstaller I've read through the numerous forums you have been a a part of. Your input on all of this is very much appreciated!
Thanks! Vince Last edited by vincemoccio10; 11-08-2018 at 07:51 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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11-08-2018, 06:47 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Remove the resistor from the car.. IIRC its one 10mm and the 2pin connector. It's mounted below the airbox on the driverside. Cut the harness off the resistor(not the harness in the car). Solder the two wires on the connector side of the resistor harness together, and tape them up. Plug the resistor harness back into the connector in the engine bay and you're done.
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks Last edited by SSinstaller; 11-08-2018 at 07:33 PM. |
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11-12-2018, 09:31 AM
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11-12-2018, 08:05 AM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thank you so much!! Life saver! |
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11-12-2018, 01:58 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Those two black wires on the resistor harness are the ones you want. Cut them in half and connect the two ends that are attached to the grey connector together. Then you can plug the grey connector back into the car, bypassing the resistor.
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks |
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11-13-2018, 08:35 AM
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11-14-2018, 09:07 AM
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Did I do something wrong? | |
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11-14-2018, 09:17 AM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm not seeing any cut wires in that pic....
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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11-14-2018, 09:27 AM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry, see attached. |
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11-14-2018, 11:11 AM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The two wires coming out of the gray connector....put those together.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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11-14-2018, 11:30 AM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The red and green wire? See the attachment. I just cut the one black wire and soldered it then taped it to the other black wire. It seemed odd but that is what the remember on her said to do. Thanks for the help... |
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11-14-2018, 11:36 AM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Technically yes. Connect the red and green wires...but do it with the black wires on the other side of the connector. The black wire will just be a loop to connect the red and green. Making the black wire loop means you don't have to molest the main wire harness. The directions were: Remove the resistor from the car. Cut the harness off the resistor(not the harness in the car). Solder the two wires on the connector side of the resistor harness together, and tape them up. No where does it say to attach the connector wire back to the resistor. The resistor should be sitting on your work bench. New instructions: Cut the wire you mistakenly connected. Remove resistor pack and set it aside (not in the trash...yet) Remove resistor connector from the main harness. The two black wires sticking out of the connector....solder them together. Tape it up. Note: If you want to use heatshrink, you should have put it on before soldering. Plug the loopy connector back in to the main harness.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) Last edited by Fstrnyou; 11-14-2018 at 11:46 AM. |
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11-14-2018, 11:56 AM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score To my defense SS installer says "those two black wires on the resistor harness are the ones I want. Maybe I read it wrong. Sorry. I will do as you said. Thank you so much for the help. I really do appreciate it! Those two black wires on the resistor harness are the ones you want. Cut them in half and connect the two ends that are attached to the grey connector together. Then you can plug the grey connector back into the car, bypassing the resistor. I'm sorry but what two black wires? The two black wires sticking out of the connector....solder them together. Last edited by vincemoccio10; 11-14-2018 at 11:56 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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11-14-2018, 03:20 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I thought I was pretty clear in the instructions. You should have a little U of black wire attached to the grey connector when you're done.
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks |
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11-22-2018, 12:16 PM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score See the attachment. I went ahead and just made one loop as I believe I was told to do. Started it up and it started fine but once I backed it down my driveway it died out and I couldnt get it started. I put back in that jumper wire from F2 RELAY TO CIRCUIT RELAY to get it started again and back up my driveway. What is wrong, gents? |
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11-22-2018, 02:16 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That should have the resistor bypassed.. It's possible the relay itself is bad.
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks |
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11-25-2018, 07:27 AM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Ya I ordered a couple relays. I’mhopeful that that solves the problen |
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12-06-2018, 08:20 AM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score See the attachment. I still have the "loop" made. I bought two new relays. Car will still not stay running. Once it gets to temp, fuel pressure drops and the car dies. My thought is maybe I just go ahead and buy a new resistor? Thoughts? |
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12-06-2018, 08:25 AM
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The only way I can keep it running is if I put that jumper wire from relay F/2 to Circuit. |
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12-06-2018, 12:26 PM
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Remove the speed control relay and see if the car will run with your jumper in place. That will tell you if the resistor is bypassed properly. If it will run it means that pin 3 on the pump relay has a bad/broken wire inside the fuse box.
__________________ Fully Built : Arias Pistons: Pauter Rods : ARP bolts: Ported Head: Cosworth BSD : Spec 3+ Clutch : Fidanza Flywheel : AWR Engine mounts 90duro : Custom TIP/Intake : Custom Blow Through 3.5" MAF : Custom FMIC : HKS SSQV VTA : Ported IM : Custom DP : Custom Exhaust : CPBoost Top Mount EM : Garrett GT3582R : PTP Turbo Blanket: Tial V44 EWG : Perrin EBCS : MrLilGuy/PTP HPFP : Ported fuel line : Ported Fuel Rail : Custom Ported Fuel Injectors : Kenny Bell Boost-a-Pump : HKS Twin Power DLI II : HKS M-Series Plugs : Cobb AP : AEM 3.5bar MAP :Koni Sport shocks : RPM Kspec Springs : TWM STS : TT Front Diff Mount : CPE Upper Diff Mount : Whiteline RSB : AWR Endlinks Last edited by SSinstaller; 12-06-2018 at 12:59 PM. |
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